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DeviLSh

CPE - FordFusionSport - 2.7TT xFlex Mount - Installed (3.7 AWD)

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Fellow MKZ'ers,

 

In my quest for additional performance upgrades for the 2013-2016 3.7awd MKZ, I decided to look into engine mounts. These have produced favorable results for me in the past on other cars, and I always felt there was some room for improvement on my '14. After learning the 2.0EcoBoost Rear Motor Mount (RMM) was not the same, I had to look elsewhere to find something specific to the 3.7 V6. I learned that some of the 3.0TT MKZ ('17+) owners were using RMM's made for the 2017 Fusion Sport (2.7TT) with success, so I decided to take a look at oem parts diagrams to see if this resembled the 3.7awd mount. Things looked close enough, so I decided to take a chance and investigate further.

 

I contacted CP-e Performance, a vendor with a lot of support for Fords, and other makes, and they make a tremendous amount of parts in house. They currently offer a one-piece RMM replacement for the Ford Edge 2.7TT and Ford Fusion Sport, 2.7TT platform. I told them what I was after and they willingly agreed to let me test fit the unit on the car to help expand their product offering range. **I am in no way affiliated with CP-e, just a curious customer** Last night I completed the installation and drove the car to confirm all is good.

 

http://cp-e.com/shop/product/ford-fusion-sport-xflex-rear-motor-mount/

 

In short, the mount works as advertised. It has firmed up shifts, throttle response has greatly improved, and the car overall feels a lot more tight when getting on and off the throttle. There is, some increase in NVH at idle and when in reverse, which decreases the level of overall comfort in the car. There is a break-in period for this mount, so I will update this thread with additional feedback on if this subsides.

 

Overall the product is top-notch, and CP-e was great to deal with. Their instructions were very thorough, complete with warnings, pictures, tools needed, and expectations clearly defined. The packaging, and customer service has also exceeded my expectations, and the part itself is well thought out, and I would even go as far to say it is over-engineered. I find the $175 price point to be fair, based on the build quality and finished product.

 

Installation & Images:

 

Time: 1.5-2.0 Hours

Difficulty: 5/10

Tools needed:

 - Wheel Ramps or Jack w/ stands

 - 15 &  21mm Socket(s)

 - 15mm ratcheting wrench

 - 1/2" drive Socket Wrench

 - T30 Torx Driver, or socket

 - MAAP Gas or propane torch / PB Blaster

 - Breaker bar (I used a 3/4" 3ft bar with socket adapters)

 

DIY:

 

1) Start by getting the car on ramps, or jack up the front end (Exercise caution/care here!)

 

2) Remove lower belly pan (10-11 T30 torx screws)

 

3) Locate large 21mm bolt securing the stock mount to the sub-frame. Loosen

NOTE: This bolt is extremely hard to remove, use care and a breaker bar if needed. OEM thread compound was heavily applied in my case and I had to heat the subframe and lubricate the bolt with penetrating spray. Even after this, I had to use a large 3ft breaker bar and some friends to remove it. The compound builds up on the threads and causes the bolt to be pretty stubborn.

 

4) Remove the two (or 3, depending on year of MKZ) 15mm bolts that secure the transmission bracket to the transmission casing.

 

5) Remove the entire mount assembly, and unbolt the pass thru-bolt securing the two OEM pieces together (note the orientation before removing).

 

27072021958_c06b91d993_c.jpg

 

6) Take a second to compare the two mounts side by side and check for dimensional equality.

 

5mm difference between height, CP-e provides washers for this gap

39133710050_3629f0431a_c.jpg

 

27072021858_5dae63332c.jpg

 

Fork width is slightly wider on the CP-e mount, this will decrease when the pass-thru bolt is torqued down

39133710000_0306a3a33f_c.jpg

 

7) Install the pass-thru bolt noting orientation of the CP-e Mount, and OEM bracket - do not torque yet.

 

8) I recommend cleaning the threads of the large 21mm bolt and re-applying thread locking compound

 

9)  Loosely install bracket side of mount onto transmission.(2-3 15mm bolts)

 

10) Using supplied washers, install large 21mm bolt and loosely tighten.

 

11) Once everything is aligned, tighten everything until all is lined up and not forced (you may have to rock the motor a bit to get things lined up perfectly before threading bolts in).

 

12) TQ all bolts to spec (these are provided both in the instructions, and printed on the new parts! Nice touch CP-e!)

 - 21mm bolt is 111ft-lbs

 - 15mm bolt is 85ft-lb

 - I hand tightened the transmission bolts, Ford manual says 125nm (about 80ft-lbs)

 

13) Check for proper seating of the mount and washers, and admire your work!

 

40943216581_9ee81cd88d_b.jpg

 

Start the car and go for a test drive, and enjoy the benefits of a stiffer mount. This will also bring some additional engine noise into the cabin, as the mount is now transmitting more vibration into the chassis. Lincoln/Ford did a great job of keeping noise out of the interioir and I will say that while subjective and relative, I have not found this mod to decrease the enjoyment of driving the car.

 

Please let me know if I can answer any other question on the mount, install, or product!

 

Thanks.

Edited by DeviLSh

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Right on. You da man Devin. Good job! I'm def going to do this.

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Very thorough write up!! Happy to hear this is working well for you. I’m curious, how exactly does an engine mount result in firmer shifts and better throttle response?

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Very thorough write up!! Happy to hear this is working well for you. I’m curious, how exactly does an engine mount result in firmer shifts and better throttle response?

I use Darkstar's mount but will say it really helps the transmission and engine rock less and transfer power more reliably. This is especially useful for a FWD based vehicle which our Lincolns are, and has the PTU work less since the front wheels are better at hooking and gripping. The less power we need to send to the rear to get going, the less parasitic power loss we have on the drive train meaning you gain some potential back (some mods don't add more power but "recover" power). It's enough you'll feel a difference especially on the 3.0T when tuned. This is a big asset for drag racing with FWD based vehicles especially, even with AWD. It's also just great for better grip and even benefit in poor weather conditions.

 

Only drawback is possible increase in vibrations, but a high quality mount will minimize them. I have to grip the steering wheel firmly to feel it slightly shaking when idling. You do not feel it while driving.

 

Vibrations felt from the steering wheel are very subtle. Even when the AC and defroster are running. It will still very comfortable and Quiet Luxury fulfilling in my opinion.

 

Anyways very nice the older 3.7 MKZ have a mount option! Mounts and the Intercooler are some of the best upgrades for these cars.

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Well done, as usual, Devin!

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Great Write Up.. 

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 I’m curious, how exactly does an engine mount result in firmer shifts and better throttle response?

 

Zalvern's explanation is spot-on (as always!) It reduces the pendulum motion of the motor, both on and off load, which increase reaction time of getting the power down.

 

Thanks for all the support!

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Thank you Zalvern and DeviLSh. That is very helpful.

Edited by Airflow

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I am selling the MKZ so I have removed this part for now - If anyone is interested, please PM me here. $100+ Shipping. Its in perfect shape!

 

(will fit the 3.0TT)

 

-devin

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Devin is this the one with the 60 durometer bushing or the 80 one when CPE first released them?

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I wasn't aware of a change in durometer nor do I recall seeing the value stated anywhere. Let me see if I can confirm this for you.

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Devin is this the one with the 60 durometer bushing or the 80 one when CPE first released them?

 

Checked the invoice - it is a Goldie Locks answer of your two choices, "70 Duro"

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Thx. I don't think I'll be purchasing this one. Shame. It's a great price. Good luck with the sale.

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