Zalvern - Thank you! That's great news. I was hoping that the Unleashed FMIC would work.
Also, I'm certain that I speak for everyone here... I want to say thank you for continuing to be supportive of all of us by continuing to share your prodigious knowledge in spite of the fact that your vehicle met its untimely demise.
I had Ultimate Performance's FMIC which only required the extra underbody shroud to be deleted. The FMIC by Ultimate Performance works with the active grille shutters after removing a bolt on the shutter mechanism.
A powertrain DTC will constantly be thrown if they're removed. You cannot fool it either by keeping the shutter motor plugged in as the PCM measures the shutter angle and positioning.
You'll have to contact those other FMIC sellers and ask if they will work with shutters and ACC in place.
I just read that some states mandate a hybrid battery be warrant to 150k , you may live in one of those states , other alternatives are rebuilt battery or buying one from a wrecked car , some batteries have gone to 200k , so take this in consideration for barging valve .
So I did do some checking at least asking from the dealers I talked with. They said the battery has a 8 year warranty or 100k warranty on it. So you are right with 80k of miles on it that could be a problem.
I've searched, and perhaps I've missed it, but I'm trying to find out if the Unleashed FMIC (or any other brand) will allow me to retain the Active Cruise Control (ACC Module)?
I did see that Zalvern mentioned the shutters which I also want to keep. I'll be installing the GFB Diverter valve and the BBK throttle body in the next few days but the terrific education I've received on here regarding intake temps makes me want to address the intercooler before I do a tune.
I had a 2013 MKZ Hybrid and liked it so much that I got a 2019 MKZ Hybrid a year ago. If the car checks out well from a qualified mechanic then I’d recommend going for it with one proviso—do some research on the topic of expected battery life. Given that the Z you’re considering has 80K miles, it would be worth your while to check that out.
After a long trip from Chicago to South Carolina, I ended up bringing the car in for an unrelated issue (brake noise) and they were able to correct the update issue. For what it's worth, I left the USB drive in for hours after I got the "Remove USB Drive". Tried it 2 more times after that. Didn't specifically ask what the dealer did, but it worked.
Thanks for the input all.