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Hi Jake. You can find a how-to video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_AuGTOeO1A   And you can purcahse FORScan software here: https://forscan.org/home.html   Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hey, Was this a straight forward process/ is there a tutorial I could follow? And where do you recommend I buy a Forscan?    Thanks

I just stumbled across the company that manufactures the speaker grills and badges for Ford/Lincoln.   https://www.theoakwoodgroup.com/   Their News section has a couple cool Lincoln articles and videos.

When I picked up my new 2019 MKZh in Jan of 2020 its battery was dead due to sitting on the lot for too long without being started.  They replaced the battery of course.  One year later I was getting the conserving battery warning along with a litany of other systems shutting down like the auto lock/unlock when you touch a door handle other than the drivers, the radio shutting off within seconds of the shutting the car off (before opening a door), no Lincoln approach lights, etc.  Dealer said I wasn't driving enough yet I was keeping the battery on a battery tender, they replaced the battery.  Fast forward to earlier this year and the same thing.  This time instead of going to the dealer I disconnected the battery from the vehicle and put the battery charger in "restore" mode.  That's supposed to take up to 4H to complete but it took over two days to complete.  I then hooked up the battery and the issues were gone.  The battery tender/charger I used was the Noco Genius G3500.   I read that the car measures the battery charge when the car is left undisturbed for eight straight hours, which of course is every night.  However, I read in one place that this measurement only occurs if the vehicle is locked, which I do not do in my garage.  Since the battery restoration about two months ago I've been locking the car at night.  My driving is still sporadic (I work from home) but so far no electrical issues.  I don't know if locking the car has made any difference but so far no issues.   One thing to note, due to the BMS (battery management system) in our vehicles, if you charge the battery with an external charger (battery tender, etc.) you need to connect the negative lead to a chassis ground point, not to the battery's negative terminal, this allows the BMS to measure the charge going into the battery.  You still connect the red positive lead directly to the battery.

The thing that is missing here, is that a battery is only as good as the environment it is being used.   Short trips will not keep it charged.... and may lessen how long it lasts.   When you see the message, are you checking the terminals?  Making sure the cables are tight and clean?   Also, remember that is what a warranty is for, the chance that the battery will not last very long is why we have them.  Manufacturer defects... also does not mean it will last that long, but that it is covered.   People are not perfect, thus the things they make are also the same.

The TSB for the long block replacement includes engine mount nuts and bolts.   For your mounts to fail so soon, seems like they didn't torque the mounts properly after reinstall. Seems odd that all 3 would fail too, but at least they plan to fix it for you once parts are available.   You'll notice above in the post I'm worried that some of my coolant went somewhere. Since then I purchased a new overflow reservoir cap. A defect cap could let out water vapor, so I'll see how it holds as time goes forward.

What I did was I copied the FCIM program from mine before I took it out using Forscan and installed it in the new one. Any buttons that my car didn't have wont work the rest will.

Just remember one thing, basically you will not be able to update the OS, unless you know what the VIN is for the vehicle you go it out of.  Yes there are hacks out there, and I'm sure people will let you know about them. But it's best that you get the VIN of the vehicle it came out of, so when you go to the ford site, it knows what update to give you.  😎

Oh my god thank you! Did you have to find a module that had the right side buttons (park assist, hazards, etc) that matched perfectly or will it not matter? 
  also if you remember, what website did you get the unit from?

hello thank you! I’m way ahead of you on the Sync 3 upgrade I just got the unit in yesterday - very excited to install it