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    • Two weeks ago I changed out the dealer-supplied Toyo ultra-high-performance summer tires (ugh -- noisy, hard-riding) for a set of Pirelli P7 Cinturato All Season Plus IIs at $212 each, and the difference has been amazing. So much quieter, better road feel *and* ride. But we also just got our first rain of the season last night, so I don't know how they'll do in wet (or snow.) The reviews lead me to think they'll do well -- and they're already such a huge improvement over the Toyo ProXES summer tires that I am a happy MKZ driver again. I'll be driving up I-5 through the Siskyous and into some serious Oregon-coast rain next week, so I should have a better-formed opinion after that -- but I had P7s on my former car (C-Max) and got good use out of those.
    • See this post. There's more information than I originally had.
    • Thanks for confirming, I didn't even think to look in the order guide.  When you have a chance could you try again to post or PM me those illustrations? I was never able to view them. Thanks again.
    • The illustrations that I posted earlier are from the 2020 service manual.   2020 Lincoln MKZ order guide: So, yeah. I agree-BS.  I don't know what else you can do.  As I PM'd you earlier, mine don't work right either.
    • Hi, I don’t know why I’m having such a hard time with this but I can’t seem to get an accurate reading off my dip stick after changing my oil. I changed my oil last week and did everything according to spec. After warming the engine up a couple mins I shut the car off and waited a few minutes to let the oil back into the pan. When i checked the oil, the first hole is filled and there is a section above that where it isn’t a clean line of oil, like it’s on half of the stick and then on the top bend of the dip stick. I wiped it and tried again, this time both holes had oil and above where the bend is had the same half covered thing going on. I started thinking I didn’t get so the oil out as I had the car on ramps but you’d think being angled like that would help the oil drain. Anyways, i used s small tube and pump and took a little out. Only the first hole has oil now but I’m still getting oil above and higher on the dip stick. Has anyone had this problem before? I feel real stupid and feel like I need to drain the oil into a clean container so I can measure it but would rather avoid the mess if possible... next time I’m out I will try to snap a picture so you can see what I mean. Any insight is appreciated, thanks y’all.
    • Frustrating update - The service manager from the second dealership working on this issue told me after talking with Lincoln engineering that they said Lincoln stopped using TED devices to cool the seats!  This is questionable to me as they specifically updated the interior buttons to activate the function says AC right on the button.  Why would they update the button to include the label AC while dropping the device that actually cools?  SM said that on the window stickers they say heated seats and no longer state cooled seats.   He wasn't able to tell me when the company made this change.  He states that there is no TED in the seats at all any longer.  If that was the case how could the bottom instantly cool down 5+ degrees?  I call BS.   Can anyone confirm that there should be 2 TED's per seat even in the 2020 MY? @drolds1 - When you confirmed that there should be 2 TED's was that for MY 2020? Maybe 2019 models were that last to have the TED's?   I just can't believe that all the 2020 MKZ's work like this and essentially heat your back while cooling the bottom.  Other members here have confirmed the seats appear to be working and I have had at least one 2020 loaner that was working correctly cooling the seat backs.   What else can I do here?   Thanks
    • So I installed a JLT 3.0 Oil Separator on my 2019 MKZ about a year ago. While is seems to be doing it's job, I was getting a lot of oil vapor smell. It's especially noticeable after parking in my garage, soon the whole garage stinks like crank case.     Part of the problem was JLT originally supplied the wrong type of hose. They provided Thermoid Flex-Loc 300 hose which is designed for air compressors. So when I contacted them about the problem, they shipped out some 3/8" Gates Fuel Line and initially the new hose was much better.   However lately I've started noticing the smell again. So while pondering what might be leaking, I stumbled upon the OEM PCV Baffle Plate and figuring out how it works from the factory. Essentially, the PCV valve is a one-way check valve. It vents crank case pressure out to the manifold through a short PVC hose. During regular driving conditions the manifold is under vacuum. However during spirited driving, boost pressure in the manifold would want to go back towards the crankcase, which is eventually blocked by the PCV valve.   So after adding the catch can, I've realized the catch can and rubber hose system is likely experiencing "boost pressure" when the turbo kicks in. The PCV valve still blocks the boost from entering the crankcase, but the rubber hoses and catch can weren't designed for boost conditions. So in attempt to resolve this, I've ordered some better hose and another vacuum check valve. This second check valve will be installed close to the intake manifold to prevent boost pressure from going back to the catch can system.   I ordered Gates 4219BF Barricade Fuel Injection Hose which is designed to be a low-permeation hose. I also ordered a MLE Innovations Check Valve (pn# 18322) which is designed with a very low opening point (cracking pressure) of only 0.5 psi, it works immediately and provides 100% sealing up to 150 psi.    Once I get the items above, I'll take some pictures of the installation and let everyone know if it resolves the problem.   Note that the JLT 3.0 Oil Separator (in it's current shipping form) would be fine and not have this issue on a non-turbo car.      
    • Hi johnnpee. No need to spend $200. Twenty of the Gorilla lugnuts recommend above (5 packs of 4) will cost less than $100 (unless someone is foolish enough to pay retail price).   And owners with locking lugnuts only need need 16, so less than $80 (4 packs of 4).   Yes, lugnuts can also be found for less than that, especially if they are hidden behind a center cap and don't need to be chromed and/or look nice. However, as with everything...we get what we pay for.   In the end, any correctly sized set of quality chromed lugnuts will do the job.   Good luck.
    • I don't mind the newer ones.  Especially when a cute girl comes up and asks, "Is that a Lincoln key fob in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?" I respond, "Unfortunately, at my age, it's a key fob."
    • Our first Mkz was Jeeves. The 2018 is known as Coleman. 
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