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  • Posts

    • Hi benne. Oooops...typo!   Yes, "fender" interference, as fusionff stated. Thanks fusionff!   I went back and corrected the typo.   Good luck.
    • Im pretty sure he meant 'Fender Ineterference', meaning don't get a large tire where it will rub the fender, or quarter panel.  Also too low of a wheel offset can push out the tire and could cause some rubbing issue on the quarter panel.
    • Thanks for the reply!  Could you please elaborate on "feeder" interference?  I'm not familiar with that term!  Usually work on older vw/audis
    • Hi benne and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. You can go to an 18" wheel, if you wish, but a 17" wheel is too small to avoid brake/suspension interference. And whatever you do, you will want to keep as close to the factory/stock overall wheel/tire diameter as possible. This will keep your speedometer/odometer accurate and help avoid any suspension/fender interference.   See here: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Lincoln&autoModel=MKZ+3.0T+AWD&autoYear=2019&autoModClar=&package=false   Hopefully the link above will work without needing "cookies". If not, just perform another search for wheels for a 2019 MKZ 3.0T AWD.   Let us know how you make out and good luck.
    • Hey all, just purchased a 2019 MKZ 3.0T AWD with 30k miles.  The car came with the 19" wheels  with the 245/40/19 size tires.  I live in Minnesota and the car has Goodyear Eagle Touring tires which are working OK  in the snow and ice storms we are getting.  I'm contemplating purchasing snow tires, which will stay soft as the temperatures drop towards 0 degrees and below.

      I am curious if anyone has put 17" wheels on the MKZ 3.0T?  Are there brake clearance issues?  The obvious reason going 17" is the cost of wheels and tires are drastically cheaper, and the ride quality is more comfortable with the larger sidewall.   Are there any tire diameter specs that need to be within a certain measured range to not cause damage to the AWD system?  The Tire Diameter of 245/40/19 is 26.7 inches.   It would be nice to free up some space between the edge of the tire and the fender/wheel well as snow and ice can build up and rub/obstruct the tire when turning.   It looks like 225/55/17 also has a tire diameter of 26.7"  
      225/55/17 = 26.7" diameter / 0 radius change
      235/45/17 = 25.3" diameter / 0.7" radius change
      225/45/17 = 25" diameter / 0.85" radius change 235/50/17 = 26.3" diameter / 0.2" radius change   I looked in the manual and couldn't locate any information regarding these requirements.    
    • Hi djc. A very nice write-up which will certainly help others.   Thanks for taking the time, and good luck. 🍻
    • I did some searching and found this topic well-covered on the web but not so much here for this group.  I bought my car a few weeks ago and discovered, like many of you, that the Lincoln Way app was useless for me thanks to the 3G modem that came from the factory when my car was new.  So, I found and installed this particular 4G modem on eBay for $75 shipped.   PART NO: JL3T - 14G087 - CK   I read and understood that any of the -C_ part # suffixes should work.  Mine is a -CK but others are out there for sale right now.  The key is to stick with the older JL3T parts rather than the very latest ones - at least for my 2017 car!  This is a possible way to swap in a 4G modem for your existing 3G modem that should work for you.     Pull up the left (driver’s) side panel in your trunk to start.  In the photos you see that I moved the single power and CANBUS plug over and then moved my single FAKRA antenna plug over.  You see two FAKRA jacks in the photo.  However, only one of them will accept your existing antenna plug.  Seeing the word “GPS” on the old 3G part I have a feeling that the 3G modems need a GPS antenna FAKRA jack because they also incorporate the GPS function that your car uses to provide the compass in the dash display.  Nerdy Detail Alert - I think for our cars with Navigation there is indeed another (blue?) GPS antenna plug that goes into a jack on your APIM - the silver box that you’ll find secured to the center dash bezel right behind your 8” screen.  Anyway, I plugged a Bingfu 4G Wi-Fi antenna (cheap, on Amazon) into the other jack - see photo - and then did my Forscan work, as noted below.   First, delete your existing car profile in Forscan and let it find your car again when you connect.  This makes it build a new profile that includes your replacement 4G modem.  You should see a TCU included in your module list once the car finishes connecting.  Now let it save this new profile for you by clicking “yes” when it asks.   Under “Service Prodedures”, do a forced reset of the “new” 4g TCU.  Read and clear any codes that may remain in the TCU afterwards.  See my photos.  You’ll end up with one code for “Antenna 2” that will not clear.  No worry, that’s harmless and it’s there because you used the Bingfu antenna instead of paying more money to find and install the factory Ford 4G antenna under the rear deck between your speakers, and its required extension cord.   Now do the TSB 22-2230 initialization procedure - you’ll find that on an internet  search if the attached .pdf doesn’t work for you.  This is the procedure that has you go in and out of Valet Mode to initialize the modem.   As that procedure requires, I deleted my car from the Lincoln Way app and then added it back on.  When I clicked “Activate” in the app it sent the expected message to my screen in the car asking me to approve the car.  I did and I then finally saw the lock/unlock buttons, start/stop button and the horn/light flash buttons.  Now my Lincoln Way app does what it must have been doing before they dropped 3G modem coverage last February.  I also snapped a photo of the Sync 3 screen that shows my modem ID.  It’s indeed different from the same screen when I had the 3G modem in there.      New part compared with old.  4G modem is bigger and it has two Fakra jacks instead of just one on the 3G part.   Recall Service Bulletin to set up 4G modem.pdf   The circuit is just fine, thank you very much.   Snap a photo of this screen in your own car before and after you do the swap.   Before I did the swap, everything below the car was just an empty blue field.
    • Have not been here in a while.   But I just did this job, I purchased a second MKZ AWD to drive in the winter months here in NE Ohio. Car has 254,000 miles on it runs and drives like a new car. But the water pump started leaking out the weep hole in the block, so I parked it until I could get around to fixing it. I to was quoted $2500.00 to fix it from a couple shops. So I decided to tackle it myself. The engine does not have to come out, But you have to remove the Intake, valve covers, motor mount, computer, overflow bottle, tire, wheelhouse, just so you can get to the timing cover, a special tool is required to lock the camshafts in place, about 25,00, job took 18 hours of labor and the parts were very reasonable from Tasca Ford. So for a little over $200,00 I fixed it myself
    • Hi Rdavis. Yes, you did not originally mention if your warranties were active/expired or not. Unfortunately, many owners (both new and used) are not aware of their warranty coverage. Therefore, when it is not mentioned by the OP whether the vehicle is still within the 4 year/50, 000 mile New Vehicle Warranty or 6 year/70,000 mile Powertrain warranty, we need to ask.   Which was why I also stated, "If not, perhaps one of our tech members will have some insight."   In general, an issue like this will usually take a shop and/or diagnostic tools beyond the normal scope of a home mechanic. Otherwise it often results in throwing parts and money at the problem.   Keep us updated and good luck.
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