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2017 MKZ Aftermarket Audio Upgrade - Battery Disconnection?

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I recently purchased a 2017 MKZ Reserve which came with the 11 speaker non-Revel system.

Since the bass is non-existent I'm adding a new amp and 12" sub. Got everything installed but when I went to tie the amp power to the battery I discovered the battery location doesn't allow for access to the negative terminal to disconnect.

Owner's manual says to bring to dealership for battery replacement which is crazy.

Has anyone else come across this and figured out how to gain access?

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Connect to the negative jump start post.  

 

BTW, all you need to do to remove the battery is loosen and remove the front bracket and slide the battery out.

 

2017 owner's guide:E226509_EUR.JPG

 

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I did see that pic in the owners manual for jump starting the car.

The reason I'm trying to get to the negative terminal on the battery is to disconnect it, so I can then safely connect the new amplifier power to the positive terminal on the battery. I have already properly grounded the new amp in the trunk where it is installed.

From everything I've read connecting power to a battery when the negative is still connected could damage the existing electrical system.

I'll try your suggestion of loosening bracket and sliding battery forward. There just seemed to be no room in front of the battery to do this when looking at it.

 

Thanks....

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Got it.  Try this.  Go to video #4

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I found a diagram online today that shows the battery area, and how it is secured in the tray.  Turns out there is a plastic "screw" that also holds the clamp in.  This screw was out of sight because it also doubled as a cable tie holder and was below a bundle of cables.  

 

I disconnected the air box cover and hose to get a little more room in the area.  Then removed the bolts along with this plastic screw was then able to move the battery forward enough to get access to the negative terminal and disconnect it.

 

This then allowed me to connect the new amplifier power safely to the battery.

 

Put everything back together and now I've got power to my new amp in the trunk.  Now just to deal with tying it into the existing subwoofer line in the trunk...

 

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Great!  Well, you beat me to it.  I took some pics this afternoon with the wiring harness moved aside, to point out what you found on your own, and to say that it would be infinitely easier if you removed the air box.  They don't make this stuff easy any more.

 

Glad you got it worked out.

 

BTW, how did you get the power wire through the firewall?

Edited by drolds1

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To get the power wire through I ended up drilling a new 1/4" hole next to the firewall. I first attempted getting power though the firewall with the existing cables but it was too tight and I got nervous I'd damage an existing wire.

 

Using a step drill bit I was able to drill the access hole and not have to worry about the bit going through too quickly.

 

Now my issue is the subwoofer line that I tapped into isn't working with my line output converter. It recognizes signal and powers up itself and the amp, but no audio from sub. I've ordered a Overdrive Plus line driver which I'll try instead later this week when it arrives. Hoping that solves things for me.

 

Never easy! :-)

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Can you you take pics of the line output converter, amp, and subwoofers.

Are you tapping in from the rear deck speaker wires.

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I only have a single 12" Kicker Sub, attached is a picture of the GM-D8601 amp and line output converter I have.  I tried tying in PAC LP7-2 to the wiring harness in the trunk that connects to the factory amp for the 6x9 rear deck "subs".  Connected the LP7-2 to the SUB+ and SUB- on this 10-pin harness before it hits the factory amp and when audio plays on head end unit the line output converter recognizes it and powers up, along with the amp, but no audio.  Adjusting the output gain on the LP7-2 has no impact.

 

I had this exact same setup in my previous car (Cadillac ATS) and it worked great....so I know the wiring of the LP7-2 and amp is correct.  Maybe I should have tied the line output converter after the factory amp, to the speaker wire going to the rear deck subs?

 

Next I'm going to try using a pre-amp line driver in place of the line output converter and see if I have better luck.

 

  

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The way you have it setup it should have worked it is strange but you can try tapping in one of the rear deck speakers.

That is where I tapped in for my subs and also this is just in case check where the RCA cable in the amp is connected

make sure it is in the input.  Hope you get it working.

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Does anyone know for certain if the way I have labeled the wires for the WPT-667 OEM factory harness is correct?

 

I am now not getting any audio from the factory 6x9's in the rear deck and wondering what may have happened.

 

Thinking the wires had become loose from my fussing with them so got a whole new WPT-667 wiring kit and connected this new harness to the existing cables exactly how it was before but still no luck.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated!

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Does anyone know for certain if the way I have labeled the wires for the WPT-667 OEM factory harness is correct?

 

I am now not getting any audio from the factory 6x9's in the rear deck and wondering what may have happened.

 

Thinking the wires had become loose from my fussing with them so got a whole new WPT-667 wiring kit and connected this new harness to the existing cables exactly how it was before but still no luck.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated!

This is what I got for a 2014 MKZ just verify it with your 2017.  

From the radio to to the sub woofer input amp Positive wire violet/green,  Negative wire green/white.

The output of the sub woofer amp to the 6x9 speakers  Positive left wire solid white, Negative left wire blue/green,  Positive right wire white/brown, Negative right wire violet/orange.

Enable clip violet/red

Ground black/green

 

Hope this can help.

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To follow up on how I made out, I eventually found there were 2 issues:

1- The fuse for the OEM Sub Amp in the trunk had blown somehow.  Got a new 20 AMP Micro2 fuse and that solved the rear deck 6x9's not working

2- The PAC LP7-2 line out converter I had transferred from my Cadillac ATS was busted.  Installed a new AudioControl LC2i and tied it into the rear deck speakers.

 

Now have fully functional system like I was going for....just took longer than expected! :-)

 

Thanks to everyone to helped provide suggestions and feedback!

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Thanks for the update!

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