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Good info, I've been using SIL-Glyde or Tri-Flow Clear Synthetic Grease.

Hello, I just wanted to update everyone. My husband found this on an F150 forum: Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease. here's what he sent me: ______   Krytox spec is GPL-205   " Tricks for the Raptor moonroof: 1) lube the rubber to glass contact points on the front glass panel. 2) don’t skimp. use the Ford Krytox grease, you can get on amazon. some dealerships throw it in with a works service. Ask. <-- edit to add: Krytox spec is GPL-205 3) ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS open the moonroof to the VENT position first. If you hear the ‘pop’ sound, it’s the sound that would have broken your moonroof tracks seconds earlier. close, repeat and if no pop sound, it’s ok to open it rearward. 4) Ford doesn’t call out the need to lube the moonroof. Do it anyway. The common failure is from a lack of maintenance aka lube and opening the moonroof rearward. The stickiness between the glass and rubber causes the moonroof lift mechanism to break off plastic bits into the tracks, causing the moonroof to either not open or not close. This can be exacerbated by ... sometimes, over time the moonroof may develop some squeaks & rattles. A quick, easy workaround is to open and close the moonroof fully. just be sure to follow the moonroof suggestions above."   "Clean tracks and rubber first with alcohol"   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 __________________________________________________________________________________ Has anyone used this? I'm ordering it and will update the thread with the results. Right now, my inside 'cover' is making clicking noises and I actually just had that replaced less than a year ago.

Hello,   Does anyone know what the best seal conditioner I should use on my 2014? I want to condition the seals around the doors and trunk to keep them nice and working properly. I'd also be interested to know if there is a specific gear grease that can be used on the power seat mechanics under the driver's side, it squeaks fairly loudly when resetting during entry and exiting. And, if the same lubricant can be used on the panoramic roof, both the interior cover (which I had replaced about a year ago) and the metal rails. Thank you so much for your help. 😄

Hello everyone, I've had my 2014 MKZ for many years now, and still love "Ruby." However, as she has aged, there are some issues I've been trying to fix (properly of course) and so I found this forum. You guys have already helped explain about the small little patch of rust on the driver's side door, so I'm going to continue to read through the various topics to see if I can find my answer. If not, I'll post a question. I hope everyone has a wonderfully blessed day!

OK - The solution to this is really simple, but if its been a while since you have popped the hood on your MKZ, you may (like me) have forgotten how this latch works.  Assuming your inside latch works and the hood actually pops up when released but you can't get the secondary (safety) latch to release so you can raise the hood here's what you need to do.   Lightly lift the hood and using a small (6" - 8") prybar (or a medium sized slotted screwdriver)  press down on the lever marked by the red arrow in the photo below.  This will release the latch and allow you to raise the hood.  What causes this problem?  Most likely just dirt and lack of lubrication over time makes the yellow lever designed to pressed down on this release lever difficult to move.  The solution?  A squirt or two of WD40 will have the lever with the yellow tab working like new.  In the past, I have always lubricate this release mechanism every time I changed the oil (5k miles) but due to time constraints and heath reasons, I have been taking the car to the local Walmart to have them change the oil and rotate the tires and evidently they don't take 30 seconds to lubricate the safety release mechanism.     2015 MKZ hybrid with 168k miles - Still running great and averaging over 45 mpg in the Ozarks!

Was excited to see this topic pop up on my search in google since this is exactly what I'm currently facing, however after logging in I was disappointed in the thread ??? /responses.  FYI - couldn't get the OP link to return anything that resembled a solution to this problem.  If anyone has any insight to this problem (secondary hood release doesn't release the hood after popping it up) I would really appreciate it.  There are no dealers in my area. 

Just got a 2007 Mark LT. Needs tires and some rust repair but runs and drives great. Most of the luxury doodads still work, but the date on the nav display thinks it's March of 2005 for some reason. I can update the time but not the date, so that might get an update.   Now I have a real one to sort of match the '06 diecast I've had for a while. 🤣 

Hi TTM and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forums. While it is not a common issue, it can happen to all vehicles.   If you are worried about it, be sure to verify if it will be covered under that limited warranty. I tend to doubt it will.   Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Don KY and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. Our vehicles are designed to run on 87 octane minimum and above. So 87 octane fuel is fine.   However, you will You will get full advertised power from your engine using 93 octane premium. Expect a ~5-10% power decrease using 87 octane, and using 89 or 91 octane will fall somewhere in th4e middle.   Opinion here: Unless you need full power all the time (towing, running the stop-light Grand Prix etc.), you can save money by using 87 octane. For reference, I use 87 octane 99% of the time, only filling with 93 if I'm feeling particular sporty once in a long while.   That being said...What is more important than fuel octane is fuel quality. So as long as we use 87 octane minimum fuel, it is recommended we fuel up at "Top Tier" rated stations and avoid cheap, generic stations of unknown quality.   For verification, we can also find this information in our Owner Manuals.   Let us know how you make out and good luck. 🍻

I have a 2017 MKZ Reserve Hybrid and the shifter buttons are worn down.  Is there anyway to replace the decals without replacing the unit?