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Zalvern

3.0T Performance Modifications

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So can we expect some additional tuning options or other goodies with the inclusion of the 3.0 engine in the new Explorer?

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12 hours ago, Roger said:

So can we expect some additional tuning options or other goodies with the inclusion of the 3.0 engine in the new Explorer?

 

Hi Roger.  Maybe.

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I'll highly doubt it. Livernois ceased tuning support last I heard after 2018 MY. They only continued support for the Fusion Sport up to 2019.

Fusion Sport is now gone in 2020. MKZ and Continental future is...a mystery. Either they will be phased out, or get revamped under CD6. If they do get revamped for CD6, good news is the Explorer ST alone should help make more aftermarket goodies to pursue and work cross the platform.


Explorer and Aviator platform is RWD based, and is drastically different. Below are some pictures.

Explorer ST:
http://fordauthority.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/2020-Ford-Explorer-Engine-Bay.jpg

 

Aviator (Similar to Explorer ST if you remove the "Lincoln trim covers")

2020-lincoln-aviator-12.jpg

 

Aviator GT (Note the Orange Hybrid Power Line)

 

2020-lincoln-aviator-carbuzz-617976-840x

 

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I ran the MKZ at Byron Dragway 10/26, first up was a Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 LS and twin turbos, I was sure he was going to blow right by me. I ran a 12.7 to his 14.3, he apparently was having boost controller issues, we raced 3 times, the last time he figured more out and ran a 13.3 to my 13.0. I'm amazed how fast this car is, there was a whipple 2011 SS Camaro there running 12.4's, I wanted to race him so bad, not because I thought I could win but to scare the pants off the guy knowing I'd be right there at the end of the track, in a LINCOLN. 🙂

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6 hours ago, Loki-MKZ said:

I ran the MKZ at Byron Dragway 10/26, first up was a Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 LS and twin turbos, I was sure he was going to blow right by me. I ran a 12.7 to his 14.3, he apparently was having boost controller issues, we raced 3 times, the last time he figured more out and ran a 13.3 to my 13.0. I'm amazed how fast this car is, there was a whipple 2011 SS Camaro there running 12.4's, I wanted to race him so bad, not because I thought I could win but to scare the pants off the guy knowing I'd be right there at the end of the track, in a LINCOLN. 🙂

12.7 is amazing!👍

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On ‎4‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 1:17 PM, crushalot said:

 

Just wanted to point out that Darkstar's custom CAI is $50 cheaper and doesn't have to be modified to fit.  

 

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Is Darkstar selling a Cold Air Intake or making them to sell?  I am getting a 2020 MKZ 30.T AWD in the next few days. 

 

Thanks

 

 

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I just bought my 2017 MKZ 3.0 and looking to tinker with it.  Does anyone have the rotora big brake kit?  What did you pay?  Where can I get it?  I have checked with Wilwood and Brembo, but nothing for the MKZ/Fusion.

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On 5/1/2020 at 2:28 PM, Fred H said:

Is Darkstar selling a Cold Air Intake or making them to sell?  I am getting a 2020 MKZ 30.T AWD in the next few days. 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Darkstar retired from making these, and that was a long time ago I spoken to him about them.

https://ultimateperformancenm.com/shop?olsPage=products

Are the only parts available.

 

1 hour ago, spanky1313 said:

I just bought my 2017 MKZ 3.0 and looking to tinker with it.  Does anyone have the rotora big brake kit?  What did you pay?  Where can I get it?  I have checked with Wilwood and Brembo, but nothing for the MKZ/Fusion.


I would leave the brakes alone personally. Nobody that I know of, touched a big brake kit nor is there a ready-made kit available.

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11 hours ago, Zalvern said:

I would leave the brakes alone personally. Nobody that I know of, touched a big brake kit nor is there a ready-made kit available.

 

How come you would leave them alone? They still suffer from the same "cons" as all OEM brake systems. Also, there seems to be some common problems with high speed throbbing on our cars and the FFS. But I think this is related to the rears. Either way I am not that impressed with this cars brakes, and I thought I would be coming from the 3.7 2014 that didnt have the beefed up stuff the 3.0TT does. 

 

Most people are very satisfied with a better pad and rotor combo, fluid and lines. And you can also get caliper stiffening kits to put in place of the guide sleeves to keep flex down. These are easy ways to "improve" oem brakes. But at the end of the day, brake needs, mods, and pros/cons become very subjective and the MKZ is a FAST & HEAVY car to slow down. 

 

@spanky - I spoke with this guy a while back when i had my 2014, i plan on reaching out when my fronts wear down some more. Keep in mind some fusions have M12 lugs vs our M14. So the hub rings may need to be drilled out. But I am fairly confident this kit would work for our cars, and its the direction I plan on taking in due time. Lighter, larger, nicer looking, tons of pad choices, 6pot, etc. Of course, introrucing an aftermakret BBK brings a whole nother bag of potential issues and cons too. Can the OEM ABS and master handle it, what proportioning/bias is maintained, etc. Thats why I am asking Zalvern what he has against upgrading because I know that guy thinks things through. 

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4 hours ago, DeviLSh said:

 

How come you would leave them alone? They still suffer from the same "cons" as all OEM brake systems. Also, there seems to be some common problems with high speed throbbing on our cars and the FFS. But I think this is related to the rears. Either way I am not that impressed with this cars brakes, and I thought I would be coming from the 3.7 2014 that didnt have the beefed up stuff the 3.0TT does. 

 

Most people are very satisfied with a better pad and rotor combo, fluid and lines. And you can also get caliper stiffening kits to put in place of the guide sleeves to keep flex down. These are easy ways to "improve" oem brakes. But at the end of the day, brake needs, mods, and pros/cons become very subjective and the MKZ is a FAST & HEAVY car to slow down. 

 

@spanky - I spoke with this guy a while back when i had my 2014, i plan on reaching out when my fronts wear down some more. Keep in mind some fusions have M12 lugs vs our M14. So the hub rings may need to be drilled out. But I am fairly confident this kit would work for our cars, and its the direction I plan on taking in due time. Lighter, larger, nicer looking, tons of pad choices, 6pot, etc. Of course, introrucing an aftermakret BBK brings a whole nother bag of potential issues and cons too. Can the OEM ABS and master handle it, what proportioning/bias is maintained, etc. Thats why I am asking Zalvern what he has against upgrading because I know that guy thinks things through. 

If you think the brakes on this MKZ aren't great, you should have driven my 2010 and 2012 MKZ Sports.  Considerable "pucker factor."  I'm not saying that the brakes wouldn't benefit from an upgrade, but using that as a frame of reference, this car stops like you threw out an anchor.

Edited by drolds1

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There are 2 kits that work on this car. One is made by TCE Performance and may require slight modification to the hub for larger holes.  The other is a direct bolt on for these cars and is made by Rotora (but extremely expensive). Like 4000 for front and rear at 50 percent off.

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6 hours ago, DeviLSh said:

 

How come you would leave them alone? They still suffer from the same "cons" as all OEM brake systems. Also, there seems to be some common problems with high speed throbbing on our cars and the FFS. But I think this is related to the rears. Either way I am not that impressed with this cars brakes, and I thought I would be coming from the 3.7 2014 that didnt have the beefed up stuff the 3.0TT does. 

 

Most people are very satisfied with a better pad and rotor combo, fluid and lines. And you can also get caliper stiffening kits to put in place of the guide sleeves to keep flex down. These are easy ways to "improve" oem brakes. But at the end of the day, brake needs, mods, and pros/cons become very subjective and the MKZ is a FAST & HEAVY car to slow down. 

 

@spanky - I spoke with this guy a while back when i had my 2014, i plan on reaching out when my fronts wear down some more. Keep in mind some fusions have M12 lugs vs our M14. So the hub rings may need to be drilled out. But I am fairly confident this kit would work for our cars, and its the direction I plan on taking in due time. Lighter, larger, nicer looking, tons of pad choices, 6pot, etc. Of course, introrucing an aftermakret BBK brings a whole nother bag of potential issues and cons too. Can the OEM ABS and master handle it, what proportioning/bias is maintained, etc. Thats why I am asking Zalvern what he has against upgrading because I know that guy thinks things through. 

 

Well since you asked, I'll elaborate. The question is inquiring about a Big Brake Kit rather than just a pad and brake line upgrade. If seeking better XXX-0 stopping power, tires always comes first and then follow up with aggressive brake pads if still not satisfied. Brake lines are more personal, but my 2017 3.0T MKZ brake lines were definitely a better material than my 2014 Fusion had (and thus I suspect the same for your former 2014 3.7 MKZ), and so I stayed with stock lines even though Steeda does have SS Brake Lines for the Fusion (can't confirm if direct fit onto the MKZ as there was a difference in brake line part numbers this time with Ford/Lincoln). The 2017 Brake Lines on my Black Label MKZ with Driver's Package were a higher quality silicone that shouldn't expand as badly and thicker too.

 

I ran Pilot Super Sports (and was going to upgrade to 4S until my MKZ was destroyed) during summer and took my car up to high speeds at some points, especially at the drag strip when I manage to hit some 110 trap times, and even used it at times to test hard braking back down to single digit speeds. Never had a throbbing issue or any event I felt the brake power was becoming uncomfortable, which is only my personal assessment with my vehicle. Braking it hard upon crossing the quarter mile line, or a time I had a little speed fun on a long winding road seemed on point with just a tire upgrade for my needs, as I didn't even touch more aggressive pads yet. This is why I am personally on leaving the brake system alone, as I was pretty much satisfied with just a tire upgrade for my needs.

 

The Big Brake Kits main objective is better brake fade resistance due to higher surface area for more heat dissipation during brake event, not gaining actual stopping power which can be achieved without it. Street cars or daily drivers should not intentionally be encountering high speed braking events so much to warrant a Big Brake Kit in being useful. The costs for these kits are otherwise ridiculously high due to DOT involvement.

 

I did not know of any ready kit made available, but FunktasticLucky put out options though. So if someone really wants it for the looks, well that is their choice. But it isn't something to chase or invest for pure performance reasons like trying to discover how to make more horsepower/torque. Brake power should be about how much you actually demand otherwise, keep it simple and fully DOT legal.

 

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7 hours ago, FunktasticLucky said:

There are 2 kits that work on this car. One is made by TCE Performance and may require slight modification to the hub for larger holes.  The other is a direct bolt on for these cars and is made by Rotora (but extremely expensive). Like 4000 for front and rear at 50 percent off.

Excellent, thank you.  Personal preference is that I can't stand the look of the floating calipers.  I don't know why, but the all-piston calipers just look that much better.  Not $4000 better, but I would definitely do $1750.  I put Willwood's on my '05 SRT and thought the look was a huge improvement, especially considering the open spoke rims I had.  I intend to put winter tires on the MKZ stock rims this fall and get new rims/summer tires next spring.

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Spanky keep in mind that the 4K price tag does include the rear 13 inch brakes with Electronic parking brake function as well as the 14 inch front 6 pistons and the braided stainless lines as well.  The TCE kit is only the fronts Hence half the price.  I'll eventually go Rotora on their next summer sale as soon as their catalog opens back up and I can get full specs on the calipers.  I'd rather have 14 inch front 6 piston and 13 inch rear 4 piston calipers to match so that it evens the looks.

 

Also, why it's not everything I do know the rotora's have a larger pad sweep area over the willwood.  Just some food for thought.

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Good point Lucky, I will keep that in mind next spring.  For now, I am working on the parts from Zalvern's original post.

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On 5/4/2020 at 4:05 PM, spanky1313 said:

Good point Lucky, I will keep that in mind next spring.  For now, I am working on the parts from Zalvern's original post.

 

Hey good luck and have fun with it by all means. Personalize your car the way you want to see it.

Since you have a 2017 (that might have been built in 2016): Check the spark plugs and hope they're all dry with no signs of corrosion. Also listen for a "water gurgling behind the dash board" with the car in park and giving it a little revs, which hopefully you do not hear.

 

If plugs are wet, and hearing dash board gurgling, then new cylinder heads will be needed on that engine asap before seeking better performance and modding.


Here is the TSB for the engine issue, and its got quite the shopping list. So you want warranty to handle this: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164421-0001.pdf

Any MKZ built in 2016 is high risk for this flaw. Verify via Window Sticker, or Door Jam Built Date. Possible early 2017 builds might have slipped out too.

Edited by Zalvern

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Has anyone used both CP-E's and Darkstar's RMM?  Both list a durometer of 60.  I'd like a take on them from someone that may have experience with both.

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On 5/5/2020 at 9:04 PM, Zalvern said:

 

Hey good luck and have fun with it by all means. Personalize your car the way you want to see it.

Since you have a 2017 (that might have been built in 2016): Check the spark plugs and hope they're all dry with no signs of corrosion. Also listen for a "water gurgling behind the dash board" with the car in park and giving it a little revs, which hopefully you do not hear.

 

If plugs are wet, and hearing dash board gurgling, then new cylinder heads will be needed on that engine asap before seeking better performance and modding.


Here is the TSB for the engine issue, and its got quite the shopping list. So you want warranty to handle this: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164421-0001.pdf

Any MKZ built in 2016 is high risk for this flaw. Verify via Window Sticker, or Door Jam Built Date. Possible early 2017 builds might have slipped out too.

 

So I want to get the Livernois tune but my car falls under this build date and has a slight water gurgle immediately after start but goes away almost instantly.  My car exhibits no other symptoms of this issue but I am terrified of blowing the cylinder heads.  Any ideas if I would be able to talk my way into a warranty repair?  It seems like an ultra longshot to me but figured I would at least sign up and ask.  Thanks.

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14 hours ago, Fastitocalon said:

 

So I want to get the Livernois tune but my car falls under this build date and has a slight water gurgle immediately after start but goes away almost instantly.  My car exhibits no other symptoms of this issue but I am terrified of blowing the cylinder heads.  Any ideas if I would be able to talk my way into a warranty repair?  It seems like an ultra longshot to me but figured I would at least sign up and ask.  Thanks.

 

Hi Fastitocalon. Welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. More information would help. What year is your MKZ? How many miles? Is it still within the 4 year/50,000 mile New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty?

 

If it is still within warranty, bring it in about the issue and ask to have it fixed.

 

Generally speaking, once a vehicle is out of warranty, "talking my way into a warranty repair" becomes difficult. Especially if you never complained about the issue while it was within the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty.

 

Provide more information so we know where to start in advising you. Good luck.

 

EDIT - It was brought to my attention that the "gurgling" issue may also be covered under the 6 year/70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty (thank you drolds1). So hopefully you are within one or both and can have this issue attended to under warranty.

Edited by bbf2530

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16 hours ago, bbf2530 said:

 

Hi Fastitocalon. Welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. More information would help. What year is your MKZ? How many miles? Is it still within the 4 year/50,000 mile New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty?

 

If it is still within warranty, bring it in about the issue and ask to have it fixed.

 

Generally speaking, once a vehicle is out of warranty, "talking my way into a warranty repair" becomes difficult. Especially if you never complained about the issue while it was within the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty.

 

Provide more information so we know where to start in advising you. Good luck.

 

EDIT - It was brought to my attention that the "gurgling" issue may also be covered under the 6 year/70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty (thank you drolds1). So hopefully you are within one or both and can have this issue attended to under warranty.

Hi, Thanks for the welcome and the help!

 

I have a 2017 3.0 AWD with under 29k miles and a build date of 08/16.  I essentially was hoping for some guidance as to go about asking for this service.

 

Additionally.  I feel my car may be underperforming.  I purchased an odb2 scanner and the Torque Pro app and a couple questions.  For tests such as torque and horsepower, are they accurate in even the slightest (the app has not crested 300 for either hp or torque)?  If not, can anyone give me an idea how I would go about accurately getting these figures?  Also, I know to potentially get to the advertised power I need to use 93, if the previous owner used 87 will the hp and torque bump up automatically or do I need to do something on my end? 

 

Thanks again for the assistance.

Edited by Fastitocalon

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27 minutes ago, Fastitocalon said:

Hi, Thanks for the welcome and the help!

 

I have a 2017 3.0 AWD with under 29k miles and a build date of 08/16.  I essentially was hoping for some guidance as to go about asking for this service.

 

Additionally.  I feel my car may be underperforming.  I purchased an odb2 scanner and the Torque Pro app and a couple questions.  For tests such as torque and horsepower, are they accurate in even the slightest (the app has not crested 300 for either hp or torque)?  If not, can anyone give me an idea how I would go about accurately getting these figures?  Also, I know to potentially get to the advertised power I need to use 93, if the previous owner used 87 will the hp and torque bump up automatically or do I need to do something on my end? 

 

Thanks again for the assistance.

 

Hi Fastitocalon. Okay, I will do my best with your questions. First the easy one. There is no guidance needed if your MKZ is still within warranty. When did you purchase your MKZ and was it new or used?

Some FYI: The 4 year/50,000 mile New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty begins on the vehicle "In-service date", which is the day it was first purchased (not the "build date"). Did you purchase new or used? If new, the warranty began the day you purchased it. If used, ask your Lincoln Dealer what the "In-service" date was. 

Just make an appointment (ask for a free loaner, you are entitled to it), take your car in for service and demonstrate the "gurgling" issue. Ask to have a tech take a ride with you so you can demonstrate. Do not just drop the car off, tell them it is making a "gurgling" sound, hand them the keys and leave. Then proceed from there. Hopefully they hear what you hear and fix it the first time.

 

As far as using premium fuel to obtain full engine output: All you need to do is begin to use premium fuel. The Engine Management System will automatically adjust for octane reading. However, first you need to rid your tank of all regular fuel remnants (or as much as possible). So run your car down to about 1/8 to 1/4 of a tank (don't go lower, as the fuel cools the fuel pump). Then fill with premium.  Then run it back down to 1/8 to 1/4 and fill with premium again. The object is to have no regular fuel diluting the premium fuel, since it will obviously lower the octane rating. The more times you fill with premium, the less diluted the fuel will be. Once you ave done that, doing engine testing will give you unadulterated results.

 

As far as apps: In my opinion, the only way to get an accurate output reading is to have the car tested on a dynamometer. Unless you want to spend the money on having your MKZ dynamometer tested, a good quality app will give you a ballpark figure, which in reality should be close enough. Also, the reading you will get from a stock engine, in any engine output test (dynamometer/app), will be less than 400HP, due to parasitic losses from the transmission/driveline.

 

Hope this information helps and good luck.

Edited by bbf2530

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1
29 minutes ago, bbf2530 said:

 

<snip>

 

Hope this information helps and good luck.

 

I called and made the appointment.  Thanks for the help, I really appreciate your input.  Any recommendations on whether or not I should bring up the TSB while at the dealership(attached)?  I am hesitant to seem like a "know-it-all" but will push if it is the best course of action.  Thanks!

MKZ TSB.pdf

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58 minutes ago, Fastitocalon said:

 

I called and made the appointment.  Thanks for the help, I really appreciate your input.  Any recommendations on whether or not I should bring up the TSB while at the dealership(attached)?  I am hesitant to seem like a "know-it-all" but will push if it is the best course of action.  Thanks!

MKZ TSB.pdf

 

Hi Fastitocalon. You can mention that you were told there is a TSB concerning your issue and ask if they think it applies to your MKZ. If it's not done in a "know-it-all" way, they shouldn't mind.

 

Also, again out of curiosity: When did you purchase your MKZ and did you purchase new or used?

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

 

EDIT - I noticed the TSB references smoke and oil consumption, not a gurgling sound. The symptoms a vehicle needs to exhibit are "White or blue smoke from the exhaust, rough idle in neutral or park at normal operating
temperature or after a hot restart". That is not what you are describing with your MKZ.

Usually, a vehicle does not qualify for repairs under a TSB, unless your car is exhibiting the symptoms described in the TSB. You will need to discuss this with the Service Department.

Edited by bbf2530

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22 minutes ago, bbf2530 said:
 

 

Thanks again for your input.  I purchased my MKZ used a few months ago and was maybe a little gungho about the whole ordeal and didn't notice if this issue was present then.  In regards to the TSB, I am using what Zalvern posted earlier "If plugs are wet, and hearing dash board gurgling, then new cylinder heads will be needed on that engine asap before seeking better performance and modding." with their reference to the TSB I linked. 

 

My appointment isn't until Tues so I have a bit to converse with you all and have a plan for how to approach moving forward.

Edited by Fastitocalon

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