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  1. TomV

    Ride height

    I see what your saying, but I don't think those shock sensors are for ride height,. Rather they monitor wheel movement (via the control arm) for the active suspension aka CCD (Continuous Controlled Damping). At optimum ride height, the sensor is probably in the middle of it's range of motion. Meaning it can detect equal movements up and down. Assuming the OP's rear springs have settled, a spacer might put the sensor back closer to the factory location. I also assume Lincoln took into account different ride heights due to vehicle payloads when calibrating the system.
  2. TomV

    Ride height

    Rear springs are known to be difficult to pull, but adding an additional poly isolator isn't going to hurt anything. I wish there was an easier way to lower the front 1/2".
  3. TomV

    Trunk issues

    If you pick up a "used" module from a junk yard, it shouldn't need programming.
  4. I believe it helped with the odor. However I haven't driven enough lately, since the install, to verify the catch can still functions properly.
  5. TomV

    2021 SYNC 3 NAV map update.

    My 2019 MKZ came from the factory with SYNC 3.3. At one time it updated automatically (over the modem) to SYNC 3.4, which resulted in lower audio levels from my Revel system. I hated the loss in volume, thus I found a method to flashed it back to SYNC 3.3. Afterwards I did a master reset and did NOT agree to Lincoln Connect. This prevents Lincoln from auto updating my system. Lincoln must think I'm at SYNC 3.4 because of the for mentioned push. The Sync Map Update I downloaded in Sept 2021 have instructions that state 3.4 is a prerequisite. Digging around in the files, <HB5T-14G386-VHA.tar.gz> that contains another file <HB5T-14G386-VHA.sh> where it checks for MAJOR_MY20=3 MINOR_MY20=4 and exits the update if not met. I have the option of temporarily updating to SYNC 3.4 again for the new maps... but I'm not certain if I can get back to SYNC 3.3 again afterwards. Someone on a MKZ Facebook site indicated Lincoln fixed the audio volume issue, but I can't find any reference anywhere. Another option is to modify the <HB5T-14G386-VHA.sh> file to MAJOR_MY19=3 MINOR_MY19=3 and see if it allows an update. This assumes the 3.4 prerequisite only because of a Lincoln marketing decision, rather than a software structure change. I'm still debating this approach.
  6. TomV

    2021 SYNC 3 NAV map update.

    Looks like the new 21Q4 MAPs require SYNC Software Version is 3.4 or higher. The last MAPs update I had installed was from 19Q1 for SYNC Software Version is 3.2 or higher. Does this mean no more MAP updates for older systems?
  7. TomV

    Trunk issues

    Found a picture of my trunk left side when I was messing with the modem. I'm not sure which one of those other modules is the "trunk module", but see all of those purple ground wires connected at one point? Make sure that one point and any others are getting a good ground connection to the body/frame.
  8. TomV

    Trunk issues

    These checks are easy and free. You could always pay a mechanic to do it, but I figured you were looking for troubleshooting tips.
  9. TomV

    Trunk issues

    If you can't turn it on, the trunk module must not be responding to the rest of the system. So unless it's a really a "bad" module, it might be a connection issue. Trunks can hold water and moisture. Items placed in trunks can also snag exposed wires. Ground connections are usually out in the open. It could have been corroding slowly for a while and finally got to the point its losing connection. You can also check the user manual for the fuse location and check it.
  10. TomV

    Trunk issues

    I haven't had to troubleshoot mine yet, but the trunk actuator has its own electronic module. Maybe it's as simply as a loose electrical connection. Sometimes there are short ground wires to the trunk frame/body from these modules. Pull the left side trunk panel and look for ground connections. If found... unscrew them, clean off any corrosion, scrap any paint contacting the connection and see if that helps. Unplug the trunk module connection and examine for corrosion or pins that look bent or pulled out of the connector. These steps won't cost anything, but a little time. The network in the car is CAN bus. It's a powered network that all the modules communicate on. If you have a laptop and an OBDII adapter, you can use ForScan software to look for errors from the trunk module itself.
  11. 87 shouldn't be a problem. Need to figure out what CEL code is coming up. Lower octane fuel has less resistance to pre-detonation, so your computer should be pulling back the timing curve when the knock sensor detects pinging. After reading the CEL code, I'd probably pull the battery terminal and clear out any adaptive learning the car did on 91+ octane to see if that helps.
  12. The MKZ already has a factory throttle controller, it's call SPORT mode. 😉 I'm not doing any performance mods to my 2.0L. It's adequate for moving a nearly 4,000 lb. car around and gets decent fuel mileage. I choose the 2.0L for highway commuting and hope its simplicity will be less costly on future repairs. For example, I only have 1 turbo, no PTU and only two drive axles to replace. As a DIY mechanic, the 2.0L gives me a little more room to get my hands / wrenches in the engine compartment. That said, the 2.0L MKZ still has lots of modifications available. There are suspension, wheel, audio, and appearance upgrades all over the place to customize it. Based on member feedback, the 3.0L is the one to get for performance.
  13. Those look handy, but I've always feared one would open up on me while driving. That Fumoto Oil Drain Valve SX appears to have a locking mechanism and clip... so I don't see why not. The Oil filter, at least on the 2.0L, will still make a mess.
  14. New hose and check valve installed. I'll see how this works and report back.
  15. So I installed a JLT 3.0 Oil Separator on my 2019 MKZ about a year ago. While is seems to be doing it's job, I was getting a lot of oil vapor smell. It's especially noticeable after parking in my garage, soon the whole garage stinks like crank case. Part of the problem was JLT originally supplied the wrong type of hose. They provided Thermoid Flex-Loc 300 hose which is designed for air compressors. So when I contacted them about the problem, they shipped out some 3/8" Gates Fuel Line and initially the new hose was much better. However lately I've started noticing the smell again. So while pondering what might be leaking, I stumbled upon the OEM PCV Baffle Plate and figuring out how it works from the factory. Essentially, the PCV valve is a one-way check valve. It vents crank case pressure out to the manifold through a short PVC hose. During regular driving conditions the manifold is under vacuum. However during spirited driving, boost pressure in the manifold would want to go back towards the crankcase, which is eventually blocked by the PCV valve. So after adding the catch can, I've realized the catch can and rubber hose system is likely experiencing "boost pressure" when the turbo kicks in. The PCV valve still blocks the boost from entering the crankcase, but the rubber hoses and catch can weren't designed for boost conditions. So in attempt to resolve this, I've ordered some better hose and another vacuum check valve. This second check valve will be installed close to the intake manifold to prevent boost pressure from going back to the catch can system. I ordered Gates 4219BF Barricade Fuel Injection Hose which is designed to be a low-permeation hose. I also ordered a MLE Innovations Check Valve (pn# 18322) which is designed with a very low opening point (cracking pressure) of only 0.5 psi, it works immediately and provides 100% sealing up to 150 psi. Once I get the items above, I'll take some pictures of the installation and let everyone know if it resolves the problem. Note that the JLT 3.0 Oil Separator (in it's current shipping form) would be fine and not have this issue on a non-turbo car.