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  1. I've thought about new door panels from a donor, but I'm not able to justify the cost. Ideally, I'd like to try to create a frame-less grill with black mess to match the lower grill, but I won't really know for sure until start the installation process. I still have some wire connectors coming, so it will probably be a few weeks yet.
  2. Very helpful! Thank you! Is the rear deck picture taken from the backseat or through the glass?
  3. I'm going to need help from someone with an Ultima system with rear speaker orientations. Do the rear deck speakers have the tweeters inboard or outboard? How far down is the rear door mid-range from tweeter (center to center)? I also picked up a variety of cheap grills off eBay for the rear mid ranges. None are perfect, but with some black paint and epoxied on studs I think they could work. I know the factory grills have no fasteners showing. I'm thinking of using a hole saw and/or dremel to very carefully cut the plastic backing from the rear side of the door panel. If I go very slow and not destroy the leather on the front of the panel, I can later slit the leather and fold it into the hole. Here is a picture of what I have to play with. Maybe some of you have a better idea?
  4. I've been planning and sourcing used parts to upgrade my Revel 14-speaker system to the Revel Ultima 20-speaker system. Rear deck speakers Rear door mid-ranges 20 Channel Amplifier Molex BLK (PN# 347290120)12-pin power plug Wiring Diagram Manual Spool of 4 conductor 18-AWG wire OBDII adapter for Forscan The rear deck speakers should be fairly straight forward to install. I believe the woofer connectors are the same. All I need to create are connectors and wire runs for the tweeters and mid-ranges straight to the amp in the trunk. You can see from the picture, how great the factory sub-woofers really are 😉 cough cough. The rear door mid-range speaker will be the most challenging part. I will need to take the door panels off and cut a hole. Then fabricate some sort of a grill, more on that later. I also need to run new wires for the tweeter and mid-range. I will disconnect the passive crossover from the tweeter and use the existing wire run just for the woofer. I hope I can fish new wires into the door boot without too much trouble. The amplifier should bolt in place of the current unit. The audio signal comes via USB, so it just plugs in. The power Molex plug is different shape, so I need to re-pin a new connector. The wiring diagram manual provides the layouts. The two 20-pin speaker connector plugs need complete re-pinning as well. They come apart and pins release with a tiny screw driver. I can reinsert them into the new positions as needed. Basically I'm adding 12 new pins and re-arranging the existing. I also compared my MKZ Reserve I As Built File to a similar MKZ Reserve II that is very close to mine, except for the Ultima system and AWD. The DSP/Amplifier module data are identical. I think I just need to get the system to identify the new amplifier on the CAN bus. The ACM module also seems to be a little different. I might need to modify one line of hex values in mine to match. I will add more on this later, when I get to that stage.
  5. TomV

    2009 MKZ radio upgrade

    I used to have a Kenwood head unit with a idatalink Maestro RR (connects to iDatalink-compatible Alpine, JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer and SONY radios) in my old 2009 Ford Fusion with Sync. It retained all the OEM features, Sync, Satellite, Phone, etc.) I still have the idatalink module for sale if you're interested.
  6. It’s all in the way Harman programmed the DSP in the 14-speaker systems. Maybe an overlook, maybe an anomaly, I don’t know for sure. I have found that “audience” mode uses the rear more as it attempts bring the listener closer to the stage. The “On-Stage “ setting has a bit too much rear effects for my taste.
  7. You mean cancels road noise, but I agree.
  8. Thanks for info above! Is the car noticeably louder without ANC when driving around town or on the highway? I'm curious to just how effective it really is.
  9. In my opinion, that Continental looks great! Not $5K great, but great. They should have left the chrome emblems and badges on the MKZ above.
  10. I didn't say anything about "cat back performance". If you don't understand anything I posted, then I'd suggested taking your car to a professional.
  11. Oh yeah, before my car got really bad... one can of Berrymans Chemtool B12 in a full tank of fuel would clean it up and keep the Check Engine Light off for a while.
  12. Error codes P0420/P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. Bassically this means the O2 sensor behind the pre-cat see's the 'same' signal as the O2 sensor in front of the pre-cat. If the pre-cat is working properly, the rear sensor would detect an 'attenuated' or smaller signal which indicates the cat is doing it job. It could be bad O2 sensors too, but they usually have their own fault codes. My old Contour SVT had this problem. I think the ECM was too strict. I eventually purchased CEL Eliminators for a mustang, which were just plug in resistor/capacitor components that lowered the rear O2 sensor signal, faking out the computer. The car still had a functioning main catalytic converter, so I don't believe I was massively polluting. As long as your car is running properly, and mpg / performance hasn't declined due to a plugged cat, maybe you can find a side mechanic to install something like that on your car.
  13. TomV

    Cabin Floor Protection

    I’d recommend Husky Floor Liners. Better overage than Weather Tech, they got complacent.
  14. TomV

    Sync 3.4?

    Yes, I've seen a few 2020's on eBay with Sync 3.4. I personally don't like the "blue" theme, it would be a deal breaker for me.