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riff raff

MKZ Member
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About riff raff

  • Rank
    New MKZ Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • Location
    Maryland
  • My MKZ's Year
    2014

Recent Profile Visitors

125 profile views
  1. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    Update: I had the car at my local dealer. They said a reflash wouldn't solve the problem, and my Bank 2 catalytic convertor was bad and the Vapor canister purge valve. They quoted $1400 for the job. The dealer charged me $173 to diagnose. I ordered the parts from Rock Auto and had my buddy do the job at his service station. $200.79 - Catalytic Convertor $25.89 - Canister Purge Valve While he was in that area, I thought he might as well replace the Vent Valve as well, and they recommended replacing the wire connector $15.00 - Canister Vent Valve $28.79 - wire connector So - $312.54 - Parts (w/shipping & tax) $450.00 - Labor $762.54 - Total My buddy said while there was just enough room to get the cat out/in but it wasn't exactly an easy job.
  2. riff raff

    long term battery storage

    Getting to the one battery post can be a little tricky, it goes back under the firewall, but should allow for the alligator clip connection for each lead. If you plan to use the tender on a regular basis, I'd hardwire it to the battery, then use the quick-connect pigtail lead. A true "tender" like Battery Tender, is very simple to use and nearly goof-proof. Positive and Negative to their respective battery terminals, plug it in and forget it. REMEMBER to unplug it when you drive the car after your absence! I use one on my MGB when it is idle for the winter. I put a piece of post it on my steering wheel, as the tender is on the ground on the passenger side and easy to forget! http://www.batterytender.com/
  3. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    That' is definitely the plan. My buddy checked out the data from the operating system and saw no issues with the cat functions. Hopefully, with the erratic light, it is just a reflash necessary. My local dealer said that runs around $170. I have an appointment set for Thursday. I was hoping that one of the techs here might see this thread and comment. It looks like the 3.7L/FWD combo is the last popular.
  4. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    My light started popping on at 105k. Currently at 125k.
  5. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    Has anyone done the TSB 14-0204? https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/105643/tsb14-0204 My 2014 3.7L FWD continues to set the PO430 SES light. My mechanic is afraid to replace the cat (Bank 2) until this TSB is completed. An aftermarket cat from him is around $250, guessing $1200 from the dealer. He says that the computer reflash for the TSB might even resolve the issue. The code pops up radomly, sometimes after 100 miles, other times going 300 miles or so to the light comes on.
  6. riff raff

    Battery Issues (2014 3.7L)

    I was relieved to see the 2014 date on the battery when it was pulled. A new battery is a lot cheaper to replace than any of the other related systems components and diagnostics.
  7. riff raff

    Battery Issues (2014 3.7L)

    That makes me feel more confident, thanks for the replies. I'll report back if I have any more difficulties.
  8. I have a 3.7 FWD '14 which has 112k miles. Last week, at the airport, I had the ignition on and playing the radio while waiting for my wife's plane (dumb, now I know to press & hold the radio button). Sure enough, after she lands ,the battery is dead. (I get the message "Shutting battery off due to discharge" or similar, just before it goes dark). I jump start it (no small miracle, in a cell phone parking lot at 10 PM at a major airport). It starts right up and I have no further issues. The next day, I take it to Advance to check the battery and alternator. The battery shows 665 cca's and 14.4 v with the car running. The guy says my battery is good. I drive it the full week without issues. Sunday night, I wash and vacuum it, leaving all four doors open for an extended period of time, perhaps 25 minutes or so. The next morning, dead battery. It jump starts without issue and I have no issues the rest of my work day. I take it to Advance and it shows the same specs as the week previous. We cannot see any marks on the battery, and by the looks of it, I'm assuming it is the original (I bought the car in 2016 with 14,000 miles on it) I decide to get a battery anyway. The battery is easier to remove than it looks and it does show it was the original from 2014. Of course it starts right up. I'm curious what the techs here thought of what has happened to this point. Time will tell if I have any other issues.
  9. riff raff

    MIL: PO430

    I just wondered if anyone else here had the same code and what was the outcome (02 sensors or Cat(s)). I'm out of warranty...111k on my 2014
  10. riff raff

    MIL: PO430

    My 2014 3.7L has had the PO430 code pop up twice now in a week. My local service station rest it last week, and suggested I wait and see if it returns It popped back up after about 400 miles of driving. I only have the PO430, not PO420 code, as this diagnostic defines: https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/105643/tsb14-0204 Has anyone else experienced this?
  11. riff raff

    FogLight Issue

    Those are running lights, not foglights. They are designed to go out, when you use the turn signal. That is the normal function.
  12. riff raff

    Hot Rod Lincoln

    Wow, that was a great find. Manuals for this platform seem hard to find. The last picture is an electrical diagram manual I found from a Lincoln dealer, 500 pages of all the wiring and modual components in these cars.
  13. riff raff

    2014 - 100,000 Mile Report (3.7L FWD)

    I should have also added that all brake pads look 3/8" or so thick, like new. Typically, in previous cars, I've needed new front pads at 80-90k, so this is new territory. They could go at least 120k, from a visual (I'll mic them on the next tire rotation.
  14. And I bought the Green because of the recent issues reported with K&N's. I've used K&N drop-in and CAI's for over 20 years, with zero MAF/CEL issues, I should have stuck with them.
  15. I purchased my 2014 3.7L FWD in June of 2016, it had 15k on it. Last week, I hit the 100k mark. I typically drive 55k or so annually, for work but 2017 was a softer year. So far, here are my observations and experiences - 2 Trips to the dealer - the drivers side axle seal was leaking, it took a 2nd time to get it right (just a mist), now tight - the trunk lid wasn't opening/closing correctly - I'm averaging 26.3 mpg over the life of the vehicle and I'm pleased with that result. - I do oil/filter changes every 10k, with Penzoil Platinum Pure Synthethic and PureOne filters.. I had Blackstone do an analysis at the 50k mark, and they suggested even longer change intervals. I do it myself, so I'll stick with 10k. I have to add 1/2 a quart in 10k, usually around the 6k mark - I'm on my 3rd set of tires and I'm a bit more careful to rotate every 5k. The factory Michelins were toast at 25k, a replacement set of Kuhmo's only went 50k. The car has a now has a pedestrian set of General's, which are doing OK and performed well in snow and rain. - no electronic issues in the cabin. - the leather is holding up OK, but not as well as the leather in my Nissan Altima SL it replaced (the LIncoln leather is more comfortable/supple, so that makes sense). - I still can't see when parking it! (wish the 2014 has those front camera/sensors) - The paint and wheels are holding up well, I wax it about 3-4 x's a year, usually with Mothers Cleaner/wax or Meguiars (too lazy to polish, wax these days...)
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