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riff raff

MKZ Member
  • Content Count

    102
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  • My MKZ's Year
    2014

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  1. riff raff

    GPS Map Update '14 MKZ

    Yep, for $2X, might as well update.
  2. riff raff

    GPS Map Update '14 MKZ

    I never updated mine, that link is dead - what did you search for on Ebay? Lincoln sent me a flyer to upgrade for $149. I have never used the NAV (Wayz on my phone is easier), but I want to keep it updated for future resale.
  3. riff raff

    Coolant flush/transmission oil

    I was considering getting rid of that noise reduction box as well! I'm due for a drain/fill in a few thousand miles.
  4. riff raff

    Cabin Air Filter

    That's pretty wild and a bit disappointing. I'd say to the service center, I'll need 10 free oil changes OR you can disassemble and clean my entire cabin air system to clear it for dead mice/vermin, your call. (doubt there are any dead mice inside). I've never changed my cabin air filter......
  5. riff raff

    Service Manuals 2014 MKZ, MKS, MKT

    Gotcha - you qualify (SBC - small British car!)
  6. riff raff

    Service Manuals 2014 MKZ, MKS, MKT

    No kidding - do you have a SBC?
  7. riff raff

    Service Manuals 2014 MKZ, MKS, MKT

    That is incredible! Thanks for the find and share. Wish I could download and print a copy, but hopefully it stays available. Thanks so much!
  8. riff raff

    Rear Pads - Replaced at 137,000 Miles

    10k changes for me, with synthetic oil and Pure One filters. (still had 10% showing at the last change, at 10k). I did a Blackstone lab analysis at 100k, they said I could easily push it to 15k, but 10k works, so I stuck with that (same regimen on my Altima) 70k drain/fill on the trans fluid as well.
  9. riff raff

    Rear Pads - Replaced at 137,000 Miles

    Lots of oil changes!
  10. riff raff

    Rear Pads - Replaced at 137,000 Miles

    Yes, but that is actually off my usual pace. I bought the MKZ in the June 2016, it had 15k on it. My previous car, an '08 Altima had 399,890 miles when the transmission gave up the ghost. Before that, an '03 Accord that went around 330k. I changed positions in my company and I'm now not traveling daily
  11. I'm pretty pleased with the life of the brake pads on my 2014 3.7 Both front and rear pads were still OEM original at 137,000 miles. I had to change the oil and rotate the tires today, so I decided to do the rear pads. I bought a front/rear set of Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic (#QC1665) pads months ago thinking replacement was imminent. I"m glad that I pulled the rears, they were down to 4 mm. The fronts still look like 10-12 mm thick, easy, so they'll go a bit longer. No squealers on new pads these days, so you need to pay attention. The rotors feel great, which is also amazing. I usually warp mine around 125k, from previous vehicle experience (and then just live with it) Getting the rear Electronic Parking break into maintenance mode took a bit of fiddling, but easy enough. I bought the piston tool to rotate the piston in, but that wasn't necessary, they simply push back. Getting a c-clamp into position was a little tricky. A standard piston pusher would have been the way to go, I'll pick up one (my gave up the ghost a few years ago, a c-clamp was then put into action). But the electronic motor for the EPS interferes with the c-clamp positioning, and you definitely don't want to damage any of those components.
  12. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    Update: I had the car at my local dealer. They said a reflash wouldn't solve the problem, and my Bank 2 catalytic convertor was bad and the Vapor canister purge valve. They quoted $1400 for the job. The dealer charged me $173 to diagnose. I ordered the parts from Rock Auto and had my buddy do the job at his service station. $200.79 - Catalytic Convertor $25.89 - Canister Purge Valve While he was in that area, I thought he might as well replace the Vent Valve as well, and they recommended replacing the wire connector $15.00 - Canister Vent Valve $28.79 - wire connector So - $312.54 - Parts (w/shipping & tax) $450.00 - Labor $762.54 - Total My buddy said while there was just enough room to get the cat out/in but it wasn't exactly an easy job.
  13. riff raff

    long term battery storage

    Getting to the one battery post can be a little tricky, it goes back under the firewall, but should allow for the alligator clip connection for each lead. If you plan to use the tender on a regular basis, I'd hardwire it to the battery, then use the quick-connect pigtail lead. A true "tender" like Battery Tender, is very simple to use and nearly goof-proof. Positive and Negative to their respective battery terminals, plug it in and forget it. REMEMBER to unplug it when you drive the car after your absence! I use one on my MGB when it is idle for the winter. I put a piece of post it on my steering wheel, as the tender is on the ground on the passenger side and easy to forget! http://www.batterytender.com/
  14. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    That' is definitely the plan. My buddy checked out the data from the operating system and saw no issues with the cat functions. Hopefully, with the erratic light, it is just a reflash necessary. My local dealer said that runs around $170. I have an appointment set for Thursday. I was hoping that one of the techs here might see this thread and comment. It looks like the 3.7L/FWD combo is the last popular.
  15. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    My light started popping on at 105k. Currently at 125k.
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