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riff raff

MKZ Member
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About riff raff

  • Rank
    New MKZ Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • Location
    Maryland
  • My MKZ's Year
    2014

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. riff raff

    Rear Pads - Replaced at 137,000 Miles

    10k changes for me, with synthetic oil and Pure One filters. (still had 10% showing at the last change, at 10k). I did a Blackstone lab analysis at 100k, they said I could easily push it to 15k, but 10k works, so I stuck with that (same regimen on my Altima) 70k drain/fill on the trans fluid as well.
  2. riff raff

    Rear Pads - Replaced at 137,000 Miles

    Lots of oil changes!
  3. riff raff

    Rear Pads - Replaced at 137,000 Miles

    Yes, but that is actually off my usual pace. I bought the MKZ in the June 2016, it had 15k on it. My previous car, an '08 Altima had 399,890 miles when the transmission gave up the ghost. Before that, an '03 Accord that went around 330k. I changed positions in my company and I'm now not traveling daily
  4. I'm pretty pleased with the life of the brake pads on my 2014 3.7 Both front and rear pads were still OEM original at 137,000 miles. I had to change the oil and rotate the tires today, so I decided to do the rear pads. I bought a front/rear set of Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic (#QC1665) pads months ago thinking replacement was imminent. I"m glad that I pulled the rears, they were down to 4 mm. The fronts still look like 10-12 mm thick, easy, so they'll go a bit longer. No squealers on new pads these days, so you need to pay attention. The rotors feel great, which is also amazing. I usually warp mine around 125k, from previous vehicle experience (and then just live with it) Getting the rear Electronic Parking break into maintenance mode took a bit of fiddling, but easy enough. I bought the piston tool to rotate the piston in, but that wasn't necessary, they simply push back. Getting a c-clamp into position was a little tricky. A standard piston pusher would have been the way to go, I'll pick up one (my gave up the ghost a few years ago, a c-clamp was then put into action). But the electronic motor for the EPS interferes with the c-clamp positioning, and you definitely don't want to damage any of those components.
  5. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    Update: I had the car at my local dealer. They said a reflash wouldn't solve the problem, and my Bank 2 catalytic convertor was bad and the Vapor canister purge valve. They quoted $1400 for the job. The dealer charged me $173 to diagnose. I ordered the parts from Rock Auto and had my buddy do the job at his service station. $200.79 - Catalytic Convertor $25.89 - Canister Purge Valve While he was in that area, I thought he might as well replace the Vent Valve as well, and they recommended replacing the wire connector $15.00 - Canister Vent Valve $28.79 - wire connector So - $312.54 - Parts (w/shipping & tax) $450.00 - Labor $762.54 - Total My buddy said while there was just enough room to get the cat out/in but it wasn't exactly an easy job.
  6. riff raff

    long term battery storage

    Getting to the one battery post can be a little tricky, it goes back under the firewall, but should allow for the alligator clip connection for each lead. If you plan to use the tender on a regular basis, I'd hardwire it to the battery, then use the quick-connect pigtail lead. A true "tender" like Battery Tender, is very simple to use and nearly goof-proof. Positive and Negative to their respective battery terminals, plug it in and forget it. REMEMBER to unplug it when you drive the car after your absence! I use one on my MGB when it is idle for the winter. I put a piece of post it on my steering wheel, as the tender is on the ground on the passenger side and easy to forget! http://www.batterytender.com/
  7. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    That' is definitely the plan. My buddy checked out the data from the operating system and saw no issues with the cat functions. Hopefully, with the erratic light, it is just a reflash necessary. My local dealer said that runs around $170. I have an appointment set for Thursday. I was hoping that one of the techs here might see this thread and comment. It looks like the 3.7L/FWD combo is the last popular.
  8. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    My light started popping on at 105k. Currently at 125k.
  9. riff raff

    TSB 14-0204

    Has anyone done the TSB 14-0204? https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/105643/tsb14-0204 My 2014 3.7L FWD continues to set the PO430 SES light. My mechanic is afraid to replace the cat (Bank 2) until this TSB is completed. An aftermarket cat from him is around $250, guessing $1200 from the dealer. He says that the computer reflash for the TSB might even resolve the issue. The code pops up radomly, sometimes after 100 miles, other times going 300 miles or so to the light comes on.
  10. riff raff

    Battery Issues (2014 3.7L)

    I was relieved to see the 2014 date on the battery when it was pulled. A new battery is a lot cheaper to replace than any of the other related systems components and diagnostics.
  11. riff raff

    Battery Issues (2014 3.7L)

    That makes me feel more confident, thanks for the replies. I'll report back if I have any more difficulties.
  12. I have a 3.7 FWD '14 which has 112k miles. Last week, at the airport, I had the ignition on and playing the radio while waiting for my wife's plane (dumb, now I know to press & hold the radio button). Sure enough, after she lands ,the battery is dead. (I get the message "Shutting battery off due to discharge" or similar, just before it goes dark). I jump start it (no small miracle, in a cell phone parking lot at 10 PM at a major airport). It starts right up and I have no further issues. The next day, I take it to Advance to check the battery and alternator. The battery shows 665 cca's and 14.4 v with the car running. The guy says my battery is good. I drive it the full week without issues. Sunday night, I wash and vacuum it, leaving all four doors open for an extended period of time, perhaps 25 minutes or so. The next morning, dead battery. It jump starts without issue and I have no issues the rest of my work day. I take it to Advance and it shows the same specs as the week previous. We cannot see any marks on the battery, and by the looks of it, I'm assuming it is the original (I bought the car in 2016 with 14,000 miles on it) I decide to get a battery anyway. The battery is easier to remove than it looks and it does show it was the original from 2014. Of course it starts right up. I'm curious what the techs here thought of what has happened to this point. Time will tell if I have any other issues.
  13. riff raff

    MIL: PO430

    I just wondered if anyone else here had the same code and what was the outcome (02 sensors or Cat(s)). I'm out of warranty...111k on my 2014
  14. riff raff

    MIL: PO430

    My 2014 3.7L has had the PO430 code pop up twice now in a week. My local service station rest it last week, and suggested I wait and see if it returns It popped back up after about 400 miles of driving. I only have the PO430, not PO420 code, as this diagnostic defines: https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/105643/tsb14-0204 Has anyone else experienced this?
  15. riff raff

    FogLight Issue

    Those are running lights, not foglights. They are designed to go out, when you use the turn signal. That is the normal function.
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