Rust and pitting on rear shock rods

[Laminar]

I'm trying to track down a rattle in my rear suspension. In the process, I pulled down the bumpstops/rod boots and found that my passenger rear shock rod is pitted pretty significantly.

 

 

The bump stop was wet, but I couldn't tell if that was shock fluid or just water/mud from driving in the melting snowy weather we've had.

 

 

The driver's side had some pitting as well, but it was at the very top in the area covered by the bump stop, I wouldn't be worried about that part messing up the shock seals like I would the passenger side.

 

Anyone else had a shock fail with only 72,000 on it? Too bad my extended CPO ran out last year, I never even got to use it. ?

 

New shocks are $215 each from RockAuto, I may have to just go ahead and do both. But if I could address the rattling at the same time, that'd be ideal.

Edited February 25, 2021 by Laminar

[TomV]

That sucks! Ford's corrosion problems are compounded by cheap steel, cheap manufacturing processes and excessive salting/brine in the snow belt states.

 

Those shocks are a wear item and I've seen several people needing to replace them earlier than anticipated. I know the cost seems steep, but that's because of the CCD electronic ride control. 

 

Thanks for sharing the cause of your rattle and posting the pictures. Very helpful.

 

[Zondedo]

Thanks for posting.  This is why I bought a Southern car.  It’s crazy here in West Michigan.  Used car prices are 8-10% higher and then you have to accept the corrosion.  Our MKZ stays in the garage when there is salt on the roads.  It’s much better for us to buy a dedicated “salt pusher” for foul weather than drive a $80K truck or $55K MKZ.

[Laminar]

7 hours ago, TomV said:

That sucks! Ford's corrosion problems are compounded by cheap steel, cheap manufacturing processes and excessive salting/brine in the snow belt states.

 

Those shocks are a wear item and I've seen several people needing to replace them earlier than anticipated. I know the cost seems steep, but that's because of the CCD electronic ride control.

 

I remember looking up retail price for replacement shocks a few years back and could have sworn they were ~$1000 each, so seeing them available for $215 was actually kind of a relief.

 

7 hours ago, TomV said:

 

Thanks for sharing the cause of your rattle and posting the pictures. Very helpful.

 

 

The rattling may have been the spare tire...it was definitely loose under carpet, so I tightened up the hub that holds it in place and the rattling has subsided considerably. My only thought now is that if the shock has lost all of its rebound damping, over large bumps it's letting the spring go to full extension and the shock clatters against its limit. I suppose I'd have to pull the shock out and see if it has any resistance left.

[Laminar]

5 hours ago, Zondedo said:

Thanks for posting.  This is why I bought a Southern car.  It’s crazy here in West Michigan.  Used car prices are 8-10% higher and then you have to accept the corrosion.  Our MKZ stays in the garage when there is salt on the roads.  It’s much better for us to buy a dedicated “salt pusher” for foul weather than drive a $80K truck or $55K MKZ.

 

Mine was a St. Louis car until I bought it in 2017, so I'm assuming it started out getting less salt/brine than it does now. I got an old pickup this year that I've been driving a bit more in the winter, but the MKZ has the snow tires so I'm still driving it on "inclement" days.

[Viking]

Undercoating faithfully saves a lot of vehicles.  As well as my MKZ, I have a 2004 F250 Superduty 4X4 which has had Krown treatment yearly since new.  It has no rust, but is hellish dirty to work under.