Revel 14-speaker system subwoofer upgrade

[MillenniumRider]

Power feed directly from battery, fed through 2 farad cap to smooth out any high amperage draw from the add in amp.

Now, I was doing some spec searching, I had this amp hooked to the sony amp in the Taurus as I mentioned before with no issues. I was looking at the speaker level input spec and it is rated at a max of 16Vrms. I wonder if I am clipping the input to the add in amp with the factory amp. But again, it is really strange because it is only certain content that I can replicate this issue with, most music and all the test tones played perfectly fine. I am going to put the multimeter on the factory amp outputs and see what I am getting voltage wise off the amp at louder output levels. But I am hesitant to throw more $$$ at this issue just to find out in the end that the DSP is ultimately altering the output signal to protect what it thinks are the factory drivers hooked to the subwoofer channels of the amplifier.

 

I did have both the factory drivers connected along with the feeds to the amp and was having the exact same issue, however I disconnected them because they bottom out so easily with some content.

 

You mentioned in an earlier post wanting to possibly add a fix82 DSP to the factory amp of your system due to low end rolloff, was this something heavily noticeable? Were there any other factors that led you to wanting such a device in the signal chain?

 

Edit::

 

So, I went out and stuck the meter on the factory speaker outputs for the subs. I got a peak of 14.5v with it turned up to a near uncomfortable volume. Not exceeding the specs of the amplifier.

 

I again connect the factory subs to double check if it changed anything, no change.

 

In doing all of this, I noticed the add on sub cone moving back and forth by a small amount, with the volume turned down to zero, weird. Disconnect the sub and check the factory driver to see if they do the same thing. No......  Odd.....

 

I connect a laptop to the audio inputs on the add on amp instead of the car feed, and jump the remote lead to turn it on manually, sub comes on, kicks hard and goes into protect, then cycles and does the same thing.....

 

I'm going to settle on the amp being shot, which is weird because it worked when it was removed from the old car, it sat in the basement for a couple years untouched, but whatever I suppose, none of this behaves as I would expect, because I can hook the thing back to the high level inputs and it wont go into protect.

 

I don't want to throw anymore time or money at this so I think it is getting left with the lousy factory subs at this point.

 

Thank you for your response Tom, if you have any other insight or something I missed feel free to reply.

Edited May 17, 2023 by MillenniumRider
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