Jakevandee Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Hi, I have the 2016 mkz with the 11 speaker (base), and I found out the rear speaker amp is just for the rear deck speakers and it is a monoblock amp. The speakers are also 2ohms so if I swap them out and from the amp connect leads to a subwoofer would it work? Could anything really go wrong if I try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy3906 Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 22 hours ago, Jakevandee said: Hi, I have the 2016 mkz with the 11 speaker (base), and I found out the rear speaker amp is just for the rear deck speakers and it is a monoblock amp. The speakers are also 2ohms so if I swap them out and from the amp connect leads to a subwoofer would it work? Could anything really go wrong if I try it. Hello, Jakevandee what size subwoofers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 If I just hooked the amp up to a 12 inch subwoofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy3906 Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 I have the same system and I really don't think it will move the subwoofer. The way I did mine was to connect a high low converter on the rear deck wires and connect an aftermarket amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 Id assume the amp is at least 200 watts. And if it’s the same bass level as the stock ones that’s fine it’s just they don’t have very good dynamics and really fall off around 40 hz which is where the bass notes in my music tend to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 Do you have a wiring diagram for the stock amplifier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy3906 Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 Yes, I do but I moved to a new hose and most of my stuff is still boxed and stacked so I really don't know where they're at now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted July 5, 2019 Author Share Posted July 5, 2019 Do you know how many watts the amp is or any of the specs other than it is a mono block and 2 ohms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy3906 Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 22 hours ago, Jakevandee said: Do you know how many watts the amp is or any of the specs other than it is a mono block and 2 ohms? The OEM amp is 700 watts total for all speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted July 6, 2019 Author Share Posted July 6, 2019 No, the amp that’s just for the rear deck speakers I’m talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy3906 Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 On 7/5/2019 at 10:16 PM, Jakevandee said: No, the amp that’s just for the rear deck speakers I’m talking about No, but I will try to find out and let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 (edited) I finished my project and since there is very little information on installing a subwoofer online I’ll share some information. First I started with a little $8 kit from amazon of panel poppers and a tool to take out what I think they are called “popits” and since there were very many to take out in the process this helped a lot. I started by taking the drivers side door areas and under the seal that keeps the water from coming in I came in with the panel poppers and you have to be a little rough to get the panels to pop out, I then found an area to go through in the firewall which is the hood release cable, do not cut it because it is about 1-2 inches long so you have to push it out to get the power wire through.(start from the inside of the cabin and push into the engine because the hole cannot be seen from the engine bay). Next I tucked the power wire in the carpet which worked great and I removed the rear seat and a little flat panel right next to it and that had great area to cable manage. I kept the excess under the floor by the spare tire. Next for signal I bought the Metra 72-5601 to plug directly into the rear deck 6x9 speakers for signal and shipped the ends off to the bare speaker wire and ran some speaker wire to a low output converter with a 12 volt amp turn on and the ground I got from under the rear seat which comes out with 2 little plastic pins that you push to the side and the rear seat comes right out. I tried to do the remote wire to the little fuse box by the pedals but after trying about 5 I realized the fuses have power on all of the time. I used some stronger double sided tape to hold down the low output converter and my amp by the spare tire area as well to keep my trunk tidy. And lastly for the bass knob I ran it by the power wire then under my seat. (Sorry I’m not the best at writing guides but if you have any questions feel free to ask here). Edited September 3, 2019 by Jakevandee rhartlin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted September 25, 2019 Author Share Posted September 25, 2019 ***edit*** I found a fuse that works for people who don’t want to buy the low output converter with the 12 volt on. It’s the only fuse that shuts off with the car labeled “delayed accessory” in a fuse diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 6 hours ago, Jakevandee said: ***edit*** I found a fuse that works for people who don’t want to buy the low output converter with the 12 volt on. It’s the only fuse that shuts off with the car labeled “delayed accessory” in a fuse diagram Not quite true. Fuse #36 is switched. I've used it to power my dashcam in both my 2014 and 2017 MKZs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 On 9/25/2019 at 1:47 AM, drolds1 said: Not quite true. Fuse #36 is switched. I've used it to power my dashcam in both my 2014 and 2017 MKZs. That’s probably the fuse labeled delayed accessory then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 9 hours ago, Jakevandee said: That’s probably the fuse labeled delayed accessory then. No, it;s the fuse labeled Continuous control damping suspension module. Auto dimming rear view mirror. Rear heated seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 On 9/29/2019 at 1:52 AM, drolds1 said: No, it;s the fuse labeled Continuous control damping suspension module. Auto dimming rear view mirror. Rear heated seats. Hmm, I’m my 2016 that one did not work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Jakevandee said: Hmm, I’m my 2016 that one did not work Hi Jakevandee. I am not sure which Owners Manuals everyone is checking, but you need to check your Owners Manual, for the model year/car you want to modify, for what each fuse is dedicated to/for. Me giving you advice for your 2016 MKZ from my 2018 Owners Manual is of little help, since those specifications can change from year to year, and even within a model year. Same goes for fuse panel specs from any model year other than a 2016. If you are checking your 2016 Owners Manual, great. If not, that is what you need to do. Let us know how you make out and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakevandee Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 14 minutes ago, bbf2530 said: Hi Jakevandee. I am not sure which Owners Manuals everyone is checking, but you need to check your Owners Manual, for the model year/car you want to modify, for what each fuse is dedicated to/for. Me giving you advice for your 2016 MKZ from my 2018 Owners Manual is of little help, since those specifications can change from year to year, and even within a model year. Same goes for fuse panel specs from any model year other than a 2016. If you are checking your 2016 Owners Manual, great. If not, that is what you need to do. Let us know how you make out and good luck. I already solved the problem and was posting a guide for the 2016 then one of the mods told me I was wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 It worked both in my 2014 and in my 2017. I don't see why it wouldn't work in a 2016. If you solved the problem already, just use what works for you, then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Jakevandee said: I already solved the problem and was posting a guide for the 2016 then one of the mods told me I was wrong Hi Jakevandee. That is great. Thanks for posting back with your information and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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