riff raff Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 I'm pretty pleased with the life of the brake pads on my 2014 3.7 Both front and rear pads were still OEM original at 137,000 miles. I had to change the oil and rotate the tires today, so I decided to do the rear pads. I bought a front/rear set of Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic (#QC1665) pads months ago thinking replacement was imminent. I"m glad that I pulled the rears, they were down to 4 mm. The fronts still look like 10-12 mm thick, easy, so they'll go a bit longer. No squealers on new pads these days, so you need to pay attention. The rotors feel great, which is also amazing. I usually warp mine around 125k, from previous vehicle experience (and then just live with it) Getting the rear Electronic Parking break into maintenance mode took a bit of fiddling, but easy enough. I bought the piston tool to rotate the piston in, but that wasn't necessary, they simply push back. Getting a c-clamp into position was a little tricky. A standard piston pusher would have been the way to go, I'll pick up one (my gave up the ghost a few years ago, a c-clamp was then put into action). But the electronic motor for the EPS interferes with the c-clamp positioning, and you definitely don't want to damage any of those components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKZMark Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 That's amazing I assume you do all highway miles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 6 hours ago, MKZMark said: That's amazing I assume you do all highway miles? Yes, but that is actually off my usual pace. I bought the MKZ in the June 2016, it had 15k on it. My previous car, an '08 Altima had 399,890 miles when the transmission gave up the ghost. Before that, an '03 Accord that went around 330k. I changed positions in my company and I'm now not traveling daily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKZMark Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 I put 260K on an '06 Town&Country minivan. When I traded it, the engine and tranny were fine, same oil consumption and gas mileage as when it was new. Suspension was also original and it had just passed state inspection. Unfortunately lots of other stuff was failing so it was time to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 Lots of oil changes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKZMark Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Oil at 3500 miles, Trans fluid at 75K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 10k changes for me, with synthetic oil and Pure One filters. (still had 10% showing at the last change, at 10k). I did a Blackstone lab analysis at 100k, they said I could easily push it to 15k, but 10k works, so I stuck with that (same regimen on my Altima) 70k drain/fill on the trans fluid as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Recent update - at 190,000 miles, my rear rotors were heavily scored and warped. I replaced them with a set of NAPA premium rotors and their ceramic pads. (they had plenty of life, just scored) I had also recently replaced the front rotors/pads but the rears were more challenging to get off. I could not find the correct screw to push the rotor off the axle hub and ended up using PB Blaster and a big pry bar. All back together, it just took about double the amount of time as the fronts did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramf411 Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 This reminds me of my struggle when I replaced my rotors (I always do) at only 59k miles. PB Blaster + pry bar did nothing to me. All rotors were stuck so bad I had to borrow a heavy duty jaw puller from Autozone. One of them was particularly bad that I thought it broke into half when it flung towards me when it finally released.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 Crap, I forgot that I have a jaw puller like that. I spend at least 40 minutes trying alternate methods.... kramf411 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW6212R Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Interesting. I've only had one rear rotor that I couldn't get off in a short time. I'm fairly sure it was from another car with a slightly smaller hub center hole. I cut it off, using a cut off wheel, making slots between studs, down to the axle. After making five cuts and carefully enlarging them without hurting the studs or axle, then it finally pried off. I compared it to the other side, and it was a little different, several similar year Fords use rotors of similar dimensions(Explorer, Crown Vic). That bad rotor would not go onto the other axle, it was too tight and not corroded badly. Happily that only took about 15 minutes to cut off, just a little tedious. I didn't have a puller, and a rotor should not need a big force to remove it. Always put something on the rear axle flange where the rotor goes on, anti-seize is my choice. Just a little smeared on, not much at , don't spread it around on other parts or your fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 Yep, they all have anti-seize now! But at 200k, future rotor changes will be someone else's problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riff raff Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) Well, I'm now at 195,000 miles and the rear rotors were warped pretty severely. What I thought was going to be a simple job was a real PITA and I ended up replacing both calipers. After entering service mode and replacing the calipers/pads, I was getting intermittent issues with both calipers not releasing. I finally had my buddy's service station look at it, he suggested the calipers be replaced. I picked up pair from a DC area dealer (they are hard to find!) and that solved the problem. I just drove it 2,500 mile to Louisiana and back, no issues. I had previously installed new rotors/pads on the front with no drama. Edited January 3, 2021 by riff raff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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