Headlight out

[ronnie69]

Right headlight out , dealers price +$350 . HID S1 found at Auto Zone . Removed tire to get to opening in wheel well that has a opening to get to bulb . New bulb did not work , tried it on the working left side and it worked, then tried old bulb on the working left side ,it also worked . then thought  about fuses, I found 2 for each side so i switched those , left side still works so it must not be fuses . Then discovered that there is a ballast . dealer price again +$350 , saw several on ebay $100 . Problem is I can not get to the ballast , it is attached to the bottom of the headlight assembly , can not find any info on how to pull the headlight assembly or a way to get the ballast off . can someone help ?

 

[SteveB_TX]

Usually you have to pull the bumper cover to access late model HID and LED headlamp assemblies.  Go to your local auto parts store and get a repair manual for your car.  Look to see if it has info on what you need to do to replace a headlamp assembly/ballast.  :)

[ronnie69]

Thanks for the tip SteveB , I looked at one store , and did not find , I will keep looking .

ronnie

[drolds1]

How do you know the ballast is no good?  There are other components involved here: SJB, headlight relay, wiring harness.  You need to know if voltage is reaching the ballast in the first place.

 

 

When the Smart Junction Box (SJB) detects the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMPS ON position and the multifunction switch in the LOW BEAM position, the SJB provides voltage to the LH and RH headlamp relays (located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB)). When the headlamp relays are energized, voltage is switched to the headlamps.

For MKZ with HID headlamps, the ballasts then provide the required high voltage to illuminate the HID headlamp bulbs.

[SteveB_TX]

True that!  :read:

[Rusty Boltz]

My MKZ is an '08, and I don't have HIDs, but the instructions for changing the headlight bulb are in the owner's manual, which I downloaded from "Owner.Lincoln.com".

[SteveB_TX]

Yeah Rusty, the standard halogen bulbs are simple to change.  HIDs on the the other hand are a completely different animal to deal with.  I truly fear the day one of the Dynamic LED headlights goes out on my 2013 MKZ after the warranty period.  Those suckers cost over $1860.00 each!  :drop:  

Edited April 28, 2014 by SteveB_TX

[Rusty Boltz]

I think I'll hang on to my '08 for a few more years

[02HD677]

Is the ballast relative to HID. Is a BIATCH to get to without removing front bumper cover but can be done with an assistant w/o having to remove entire bumper cover.

 

1. Remove plastic keepers from inner fender-well liner.

 

2. Pull back plastic inner fender-well liner a bit and secure with a zip-tie.

 

3. Have assitant gently carry continuous outward "pull" of bumper-cover.

 

4. You will have room to access ballast ... requires removal of four 8mm screws and ballast will come out from headlight-housing.

 

5. Disconnect umbilical from ballast, use dielectric on umbilical, and plug-in new ballast, reinstall as previous.

 

6. Reinstall all as reverse of previous.

 

7. The ballast needed is used on many vehicles (BMW, M-B, Audi, Ford, GM, etc, etc). The part number required is: Hella Xenon #5DV 009 000-00.

 

8. They can be found on-line for as little as $75-used or new for $140 ... no need to pay "Stealership" prices of $340.

 

Hope this may help you out.

 

BTW, where is the "How-to" threads associated with this forum?

[SteveB_TX]

Great info 02.  May I call you 02?  :)   Welcome to the forum!

[Davisjl]

Is the ballast relative to HID. Is a BIATCH to get to without removing front bumper cover but can be done with an assistant w/o having to remove entire bumper cover.

 

1. Remove plastic keepers from inner fender-well liner.

 

2. Pull back plastic inner fender-well liner a bit and secure with a zip-tie.

 

3. Have assitant gently carry continuous outward "pull" of bumper-cover.

 

4. You will have room to access ballast ... requires removal of four 8mm screws and ballast will come out from headlight-housing.

 

5. Disconnect umbilical from ballast, use dielectric on umbilical, and plug-in new ballast, reinstall as previous.

 

6. Reinstall all as reverse of previous.

 

7. The ballast needed is used on many vehicles (BMW, M-B, Audi, Ford, GM, etc, etc). The part number required is: Hella Xenon #5DV 009 000-00.

 

8. They can be found on-line for as little as $75-used or new for $140 ... no need to pay "Stealership" prices of $340.

 

Hope this may help you out.

 

BTW, where is the "How-to" threads associated with this forum?

Sounds like it's worth the $ 350 price the dealership is asking... why not just have them do it, or was labor not included in the that $ 350 ?

[ronnie69]

02 thanks That sounds better than removing the bumper cover,  I have just not had time to get to it or shop for the ballast , or check out the voltage . this will get me started, thanks again

 

Davisjl -that was for the part only 

[Donnie]

Removing the bumper isn't actually that hard. It's only a few screws underneath the hood, around the top of the grill, and bellow the car, around the edge of the bumper.

 

The plastic clips that keep the bumper attached to the wheel well are easy to remove as well.

 

Asides from that there is a couple other screws that have to be taken out to remove the headlight and the weather guard underneath the car.

 

For the record, the same problem happened to me (same year as well 2008). I did it my self in about 6-8 hours. That included removing quite a few other things and cleaning ever nook and crany I could.

Edited August 19, 2014 by Donnie

[Neal Looker]

I have a question.  Is there a ballast for each side or is there just one for both lamps?

[drolds1]

I have a question.  Is there a ballast for each side or is there just one for both lamps?

One for each side.

[4N1M4L]

Bump

Is there no other techniques for troubleshooting this? Verify suppy voltage, try a new bulb, try a new ballast? The ballast I already changed is acting funny, and the other one looks great, except when it just shuts off. Comes back on with a cycle of the headlamp switch, so maybe a relay?

 

So maybe supply voltage check, (my alternator only puts out 13 volts, probably degrading lots of things) then start with the cheapest part and work my way up?

[BuickSpecial41]

Hey I know I'm new here but I'd like to add something if I may. I have a 2012 MKT with a driver's side HID headlamp problem that had loads of water in it (btw the removal of the front bumper cover is also required on mine but it really is not a big deal) and one of the things I found while researching my problem was that you have to clear codes in the smart junction box module or it will prevent your headlamp from working after replacing the ballast. There is a thing inside the module called a FET or Field Effect Transistor that will shut off the current to your headlamp if it detects a fault code or a short somewhere in the system. And until the problem is fixed and any codes in the module are clear, it will keep shutting the circuit off. Here is another kicker, the SJB records how many times the code or fault is detected and after a certain programmed maximum, you have to replace the module and fix the faults before it will work again. The problem is that my scan tool won't pick up on the fault. So I'm trying to figure out how to track it down. I have been clearing the SJB module of codes and it works for a few days but then it shuts off again.

[JD1963]

On my 2008 MKZ the right HID headlight went out. I was going to check it on the left side (per a previous post) only to discover that the left side was non-HID. Bought the car used. Left assembly had obviously been replaced. Is it just a matter of removing the ballast and installing a non-HID assembly?

[JD1963]

Duplicate post deleted by moderator.

Edited September 4, 2016 by drolds1

[Sleepy3103]

Did you find the ballast yet? If not you can get a new Dorman ballast from rockauto for $155. I just got 2 tie rods, a wheel bearing and a O2 Sensor from them. Great prices.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,2007,mkz,3.5l+v6,1434491,electrical,hid+headlamp+ballast,15962

[guamboy]

Need some help! Recently I changed out the headlight assemblies for my 2008 MKZ from Halogen to H.I.D. I got the H.I.D.'s from a 2007 MKZ . . . my problem is they (H.I.D.) aren't working properly. In a parked position they will work, but once I move into drive or reverse they turn off and the display reads check left & right headlamp (low beam). I installed the relays & fuses but they still don't work properly . . . any clue?

[guamboy]

Need some help! Recently I changed out the headlight assemblies for my 2008 MKZ from Halogen to H.I.D. I got the H.I.D.'s from a 2007 MKZ . . . my problem is they (H.I.D.) aren't working properly. In a parked position they will work, but once I move into drive or reverse they turn off and the display reads check left & right headlamp(low beam). I installed the relays & fuses but they still don't work properly . . . any clue?

[4N1M4L]

Need some help! Recently I changed out the headlight assemblies for my 2008 MKZ from Halogen to H.I.D. I got the H.I.D.'s from a 2007 MKZ . . . my problem is they (H.I.D.) aren't working properly. In a parked position they will work, but once I move into drive or reverse they turn off and the display reads check left & right headlamp (low beam). I installed the relays & fuses but they still don't work properly . . . any clue?

The SJB is likely detecting what it thinks is a bad headlight. You may be better off putting the old ones back in.

 

If you are feeling like trying something you could probably run them their own fuses, and have the old halogen circuit actuate a relay. A relay coil is closer to a halogen bulb than an HID ballast.

[Graydons Hip]

Hello, I'm a new owner of a Used 2009... and for the 1st time in my life I cant simply switch out a headlight bulb! I edited this with a little better sense of what I'm dealing with here

 

About 2 weeks ago the low beam passenger side went out, followed by the other a few days later. I have never had to deal with HID bulbs before and this has not been fun at all. It has D1S installed although the owners manual seems to indicate it should be D3S. Perhaps a previous owner modified to HID? Not that I could figure that out. I finally got the correct bulbs, a low budget alternative (with a healthy amount of positive endorsements), only to discover nothing happened at all after I replaced one side. The opinions on non-OEM hids is split pretty evenly.

 

The ring that secures the hid light to the projecter is stuck on the drivers side, but I was able to unplug the existing bulb, long story short, new bulbs are not working in either passenger or drivers side.

 

Yes, I am wearing gloves and have not touched the bulbs.

 

I am hoping there is a way to troubleshoot ballast, resistors, or wiring harness without having to buy everything first. I have a multimeter, but there are numerous posts that warn against using one to test hid ballast, you'll likely fry the multimeter and possiblly taze yourself. True or False?

 

What is the expected life of hid ballasts? I can't get a consistent answer on this. What would cause them to fail?

 

I am not worried about pulling off bumpers and grilles, but I hate the idea of doing it for nothing.

 

For a good, confident answer I am willing to Burn incense and chant mantras.

Edited November 5, 2017 by Graydons Hip

[Smokestone10]

On 3/29/2016 at 7:02 AM, BuickSpecial41 said:

Hey I know I'm new here but I'd like to add something if I may. I have a 2012 MKT with a driver's side HID headlamp problem that had loads of water in it (btw the removal of the front bumper cover is also required on mine but it really is not a big deal) and one of the things I found while researching my problem was that you have to clear codes in the smart junction box module or it will prevent your headlamp from working after replacing the ballast. There is a thing inside the module called a FET or Field Effect Transistor that will shut off the current to your headlamp if it detects a fault code or a short somewhere in the system. And until the problem is fixed and any codes in the module are clear, it will keep shutting the circuit off. Here is another kicker, the SJB records how many times the code or fault is detected and after a certain programmed maximum, you have to replace the module and fix the faults before it will work again. The problem is that my scan tool won't pick up on the fault. So I'm trying to figure out how to track it down. I have been clearing the SJB module of codes and it works for a few days but then it shuts off again.

That's what happened when I had a short in my left rear turn signal. Replaced the bulb and had it checked out, and still nothing. The dealer reset the FET and the signal functioned perfectly after that. I've heard that sometimes a bulb simply burning out will also trip the FET. 

So... any time you replace a bulb and the replacement bulb also does not work, check the FET and reset if necessary. It may not be a bad idea to have that checked before you change the bulb to make sure that it is in fact the bulb and not some other problem. Any Lincoln or Ford dealer should be able to do this, and it only takes a couple of minutes. 

Edited October 24, 2018 by Smokestone10