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Trunk Recalibration


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My trunk opening/closing has been erratic lately.  It wouldn't close on the trunk button or remote, with increased frequency.   In the past two weeks, in areas of NY with colder temps (low to mid 30's), the trunk wouldn't open at all (via bumper button, remote or interior release). 

 

I had it at the dealer in Friday, they "recalibrated" the trunk closer (reflash I assume).  The car mostly sat over the weekend (temps too warm, we drove our MGB). 

I'll find out tomorrow AM and Tuesday, when I'll be back in upstate NY. 

 

I didn't see this issue from any members, at least through the search function.

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This happens from time to time on these Ford products. I've found that disconnecting the battery tends to fix a lot of my little electronic Gremlins. Essentially an occasional power cycle does some good.

Thanks for that tip, I'll give it a shot if there are future problems.  Perhaps it will save me $96...

 

Oddly, it used to chime on closing, now it doesn't.  But it works, so I'll be happy for that.

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  • 3 months later...

My trunk opening/closing has been erratic lately.  It wouldn't close on the trunk button or remote, with increased frequency.   In the past two weeks, in areas of NY with colder temps (low to mid 30's), the trunk wouldn't open at all (via bumper button, remote or interior release). 

 

I had it at the dealer in Friday, they "recalibrated" the trunk closer (reflash I assume).  The car mostly sat over the weekend (temps too warm, we drove our MGB). 

I'll find out tomorrow AM and Tuesday, when I'll be back in upstate NY. 

 

I didn't see this issue from any members, at least through the search function.

 

_________________________________________________

 

Thanks for that tip, I'll give it a shot if there are future problems.  Perhaps it will save me $96...

 

Oddly, it used to chime on closing, now it doesn't.  But it works, so I'll be happy for that.

 

 

I had an issue where the trunk when it was opened appeared to try and go past the normal open point and then the button inside the lid would fail to close it. My service dealer reprogrammed the trunk module and now like you, I have lost the beep when it closes.... it's like missing an old friend that was always there.

Edited by R2D2
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I close mine manually.  I saw on this site something about paint chipping on the upper left hand corner where the lid makes contact with the body (?), beneath the rear window.  After looking at it closely, I could see that it was beginning to happen to mine.  Trunk lid does not close evenly, shifts to the left, thereby causing this situation.

Edited by Chris109
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  • 3 weeks later...

I had an issue where the trunk when it was opened appeared to try and go past the normal open point and then the button inside the lid would fail to close it. My service dealer reprogrammed the trunk module and now like you, I have lost the beep when it closes.... it's like missing an old friend that was always there.

 

I was having the same issue with the button failing frequently, especially when it's cold. I started to suspect that using the remote start might have been affecting it somehow. My scheduled maintenance came due this month so I brought the car in and asked them to check out the trunk issue. They reprogrammed it and it works now -- but the chime is gone. I'm glad I saw this thread, as I've been going nuts!!

 

I figured there must be a setting to turn it back on (like everything else in the car) but I haven't found anything for it, and the owner's manual doesn't mention it. It's silly, but it just bugs me that the "fix" took away a familiar feature.

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I was having the same issue with the button failing frequently, especially when it's cold. I started to suspect that using the remote start might have been affecting it somehow. My scheduled maintenance came due this month so I brought the car in and asked them to check out the trunk issue. They reprogrammed it and it works now -- but the chime is gone. I'm glad I saw this thread, as I've been going nuts!!

 

I figured there must be a setting to turn it back on (like everything else in the car) but I haven't found anything for it, and the owner's manual doesn't mention it. It's silly, but it just bugs me that the "fix" took away a familiar feature.

My dealer called me the other day on this, as I called to inquire "what happened to the Chime?", they asked me to bring the car back in to check this out. I will post back after the visit next week.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Followup from dealer, car was in there all day yesterday, but they did offer me a loaner after waiting for it for 1-1/2 hours.

 

See attached SSM 45157 

 

I picked back up my MKZh this morning and the dealer gave me the attached document as the explanation.

 

Lincoln engineering removed the chime when closing the power decklid using the inside truck lid button "to save the battery".  :kookie:  :sneaking:Are you kidding me? 

 

I will say that the reflashing the RGTM did solve the issue about the truck not always closing but find it totally illogical why they would remove the chime only when closing from use of the inside trunk lid button. It still chimes if closed from the under bumper button and if closed from the driver seat control. 

:idea:If they really wanted to save the battery it would have been disabled no matter what button you push to close it.  

 

After being in the electronics/computer business for over 45 years this smells of engineering screwing something up and the byproduct is now called a feature and "normal" operation.  :runaway:

 

It is funny that the last line of text in the SSM 45157 says 

 

This updated software MAY also remove the chime while closing the power decklid if the decklid is closed by pressing the rear control switch.

 

 

:nono: Why do they say "may"?

Does it not always happen?  :headscratch:

Interesting choice of words....   :shrug:  :doh:

 

And there you have it... time to go back to the  :sandbox: where life was simple

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Followup from dealer, car was in there all day yesterday, but they did offer me a loaner after waiting for it for 1-1/2 hours.

 

See attached SSM 45157 

 

I picked back up my MKZh this morning and the dealer gave me the attached document as the explanation.

 

Lincoln engineering removed the chime when closing the power decklid using the inside truck lid button "to save the battery".  :kookie:  :sneaking:Are you kidding me? 

 

I will say that the reflashing the RGTM did solve the issue about the truck not always closing but find it totally illogical why they would remove the chime only when closing from use of the inside trunk lid button. It still chimes if closed from the under bumper button and if closed from the driver seat control. 

:idea:If they really wanted to save the battery it would have been disabled no matter what button you push to close it.  

 

After being in the electronics/computer business for over 45 years this smells of engineering screwing something up and the byproduct is now called a feature and "normal" operation.  :runaway:

 

It is funny that the last line of text in the SSM 45157 says 

 

 

:nono: Why do they say "may"?

Does it not always happen?  :headscratch:

Interesting choice of words....   :shrug:  :doh:

 

And there you have it... time to go back to the  :sandbox: where life was simple

They seem to do this kind of thing with no logical explanation.  My 2010 MKZ had a feature called 'Hill Descent Control."  When this was engaged, an icon lit up in the IC, the trans downshifted and held a lower gear to slow the car when descending.

 

When they were trying to figure out a driveline issue. they reprogrammed the TCM with the latest software.  My car was a Job 1 version.  For Job 2, they eliminated the feature so I no longer had it.  There was no mention of it in the 2nd printing of the OM.  Now, admittedly, you can accomplish the same thing by just downshifting.  The 2010 didn't have shift paddles but it did have an SST shifter.  I actually had used the feature a number of times and wanted it back.  They offered no explanation for why it was eliminated. I complained and they were able to re-install it.  Just a personality quirk, I guess. ;)

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I actually had used the feature a number of times and wanted it back

 

I like being able to downshift and hold a gear.  I drive a lot on snowy road and its great to get some engine braking on a downhill ascent, etc.  The paddle shifters work for this, and I can see you missing that feature.

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I like being able to downshift and hold a gear.  I drive a lot on snowy road and its great to get some engine braking on a downhill ascent, etc.  The paddle shifters work for this, and I can see you missing that feature.

 

Doesn't the cruise control do this? Even my '05 Chrysler van would downshift in cruise control.

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Doesn't the cruise control do this? Even my '05 Chrysler van would downshift in cruise control.

I guess you are right, it probably would.  I live out in the country and was thinking about winding, hilly country roads.  I wouldnt use cruise control in that kind of situation, the paddle shifters leave me in complete control

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Oh yeah, I discovered a surprise last night.

 

I was reading about folks still having the chime on their recalibrated trunks via the bumper button.

 

I never use that, as it is just above my license plate and might as well be on the ground.

 

I wondered if my bumper button chimed.  Well, my bumper button doesn't work at all.

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Oh yeah, I discovered a surprise last night.

 

I was reading about folks still having the chime on their recalibrated trunks via the bumper button.

 

I never use that, as it is just above my license plate and might as well be on the ground.

 

I wondered if my bumper button chimed.  Well, my bumper button doesn't work at all.

 Check the menu (left toggle) and make sure it isn't disabled.

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Doesn't the cruise control do this? Even my '05 Chrysler van would downshift in cruise control.

It'll try to maintain speed as long as it can.  Eventually, inertia will take over if the descent is long and steep enough and it can't maintain the set speed.

 

When you are going downhill, your vehicle speed could increase above the set speed. The system does not apply the brakes.

 

If cruise control doesn't happen to be engaged at the time, it's a lot easier to just pull the "-" paddle. and ensure that you're in a lower gear.

Edited by drolds1
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  • 9 months later...

I am new to this site but this issue is pitiful. My trunk has had this issue for about 2 years (2014 Lincoln MKZ) now and finally gave up and wont open at all unless I use emergency pull. Then it would not close at all and the battery died and this was the second battery Not to mention water in the trunk because it would not latch correctly. Back at the dealer again. This is the 7th time it has been to a dealer about the trunk and the 3rd dealer at that. All the time it has been in the shop for this issue.... 5 months ,6 loaner cars and poor excuses from all of them not to mention paying for a car I cant even drive. Ford is becoming a Joke. 

This is my first Lincoln and will be my last.

Just my thoughts on the issue. I traded my 2011 Honda CRZ in for this and honestly it was the worst trade in I have ever done. Traded it in because it was a 2 seater and I needed 4 door for my daughter. Should have stayed with Honda because it seem that Ford is not built tough anymore. Just another going broke dealership getting squashed by electric cars.

 

My advise.... Do not buy a Lincoln. Just not worth the aggravation. Lemon

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3 hours ago, Redline said:

I am new to this site but this issue is pitiful. My trunk has had this issue for about 2 years (2014 Lincoln MKZ) now and finally gave up and wont open at all unless I use emergency pull. Then it would not close at all and the battery died and this was the second battery Not to mention water in the trunk because it would not latch correctly. Back at the dealer again. This is the 7th time it has been to a dealer about the trunk and the 3rd dealer at that. All the time it has been in the shop for this issue.... 5 months ,6 loaner cars and poor excuses from all of them not to mention paying for a car I cant even drive. Ford is becoming a Joke. 

This is my first Lincoln and will be my last.

Just my thoughts on the issue. I traded my 2011 Honda CRZ in for this and honestly it was the worst trade in I have ever done. Traded it in because it was a 2 seater and I needed 4 door for my daughter. Should have stayed with Honda because it seem that Ford is not built tough anymore. Just another going broke dealership getting squashed by electric cars.

 

My advise.... Do not buy a Lincoln. Just not worth the aggravation. Lemon

Hi Redline.  Sorry you're having issues with your MKZ. Considering the amount of time your MKZ has spent at the Dealer, number of dealer visits and severity of the issue, you should Lemon Law your vehicle. Steps to do so are in the Owners Warranty Guide you received when you purchased your vehicle.  Hopefully you are still within the 4 year/60,000 mile Bumper to Bumper warranty and did not wait too long to complain and get this advice.

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

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Sorry about your misfortune but why go on a Lincoln owners site and advise people not to buy Lincolns?   If they're here, they've already bought one.

Every car brand turns out the occasional lemon, including Honda.  You had the bad luck to get one.  

 

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Sorry to hear it if your story is truthful, but I have a 2017 with 10,000+ miles and I have not had one issue with the car since taking delivery. A Honda is a very basic vehicle for getting from point A to point B compared to a Lincoln. The comfort, power, features, and space are not even worthwile comparisons. 

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