jluke Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 All of the warning lights for the brake system are on, parking brake is off, car brakes fine, the Advancetrac button doesn't seem to do anything, brake fluid is fine. This just started today. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluke Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 I should add that I just checked and no codes have been thrown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 How old is your battery? These cars do strange things when battery voltage gets low, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schteve Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 That was going to be my question also drolds1. Ford products in general have issues with older batteries. Even my Mazdaspeed6 when the battery hit between 3-4 yrs old it checked ok but not "pristine" and it would do crazy crap with traction control, fuel cut, abs warnings... replace the battery... viola...perfecto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluke Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 battery is a year old, but when I lifted the positive boot I noticed a lot of corrosion, cleaned that off and see that the copper connector that connected all the positive leads was cracked. Will pick up another an install it, but would be surprised if that clears it. After the cleaning, I drove 30' down the street and the lights came back on. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluke Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 I checked the battery voltage and found is was reading 12.5 volts, charged the battery, drove around the block, no lights. Will find out with more driving today if that was the problem. Suspect the cracked connector was not allowing the battery to fully charge. Hope that resolves this, thanks to all for the input, will post back the problem pops back up after I replace the battery connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcgliss Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) Another thing to keep in mind: Class D digital power amplifiers are highly efficient, but will act strange or even go into protect mode when voltage drops. (sorry for the off-topic post; I started reading from the bottom). Edited May 20, 2017 by jmcgliss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluke Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 no joy with the new battery cable ($100), warnings are back on. Now another question, can the average tire and brake shop diagnose this or will I have to bring it to the dealer? Also, the week before, I had 2 new tires installed on the front, coincidence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluke Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Dealer diagnosed it as a failed brake module/ $150 to diagnose, $600 for the part, another $250 or $300 to replace it. Part is on order, will drop off the car when it comes in, bummer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Will they at least deduct the diagnosis charge since they're doing the repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluke Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Nope, diagnosis added to the bill. Total was $1,200. I have a 2009 Honda Ridgeline that is perfect and has never had a problem, when I pay this much money to replace something the size of a coffee cup, it makes me question whether I want to get another domestic car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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