ibdavidc Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 My audio began (within 500 miles of my warranty running out, of course) to pop and all speakers but one in the dash to intermittently cut out. This sounds like a loose connection, as it will often happen when I hit a bump, but not always. It has a very loud pop and crackle, and when the speakers cut out it will sometimes return after another pop, but will also be restored when I cycle the power to the car. These speakers are always active due to the voice control and bluetooth, so I can't turn off the radio and ignore it. The dealer tried to diagnose the issue and came back with "we think it might be in one of 2 electronic modules, but we can't tell without a lot of extensive tests." I know that there are no codes in the computer showing problems. Is there a way to find a service bulletin for this, a wiring diagram, or something else that could help me identify what's going on? I suspect I'm not so lucky as to be the only one to have this particular issue. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MediumWilly22 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I bet the speaker in the dash is the issue. A loose connection may be toggling on/off and the pop you are hearing is that circuit opening and closing. Also, if the + side of the circuit touches metal or the - terminal, it could short and cause a fault condition in the amp. Power cycling can clear this fault. Amps of all types (car audio, home audio, pro audio) have this type of failsafe that possibly is not monitored by the BCM. I'm not sure how to remove that speaker but it may be easier to find that info than finding a TSB or wiring diagram without paying for a suscription (I've tried). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcgliss Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Does this still occur if you have a cable from your phone plugged into the Aux audio jack (assuming you have one in the console)? Crud or oxidation can break the circuit intermittently, and is easy to rule out. With my bass guitar combo amp, I keep a jumper cable plugged into the Send and Return jacks to prevent vibration from causing intermittent shorts of the jacks (the classic $.05 part scenario). A treatment with Caig's DeOxit was ineffective since the cheap jack component was physically not holding contact with nothing plugged into it. I have also seen these small 2.5mm-3mm jacks fail or oxidize in powered studio monitors, with similar crackling symptoms. I realize the circuitry may be different in the MKZ, but it's something that's easy to rule out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 I have the exact same issue. Any luck fixing it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Church Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 I am having this issue. It just started on my 2015 MKZ. The static and pop happen while driving and when the car is off. It is super weird. Did anyone find a fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INVALIDUSER Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 I had this issue as well. I replaced the audio amplifier and it is now resolved. part number DP5Z*15B849*A; engineering number DP5T*18T806*AF. I ordered one from a salvage yard, took about 15minutes to swap out. It is located behind the trim in the trunk on the right hand side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 On 9/10/2020 at 12:53 PM, INVALIDUSER said: I had this issue as well. I replaced the audio amplifier and it is now resolved. part number DP5Z*15B849*A; engineering number DP5T*18T806*AF. I ordered one from a salvage yard, took about 15minutes to swap out. It is located behind the trim in the trunk on the right hand side. Did the new amp model sound better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Church Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I went to the dealer and replaced the amp. It cost me $110 to diagnose it. Cost me $600 to get a new one installed and programmed. It fixed all my issues with static or no sound at all. However, the sound is still not as loud as I would like it. In addition it fixed my door chime issues...chimes not playing through the stereo but coming from the dash. As an FYI if you replace your amp, you better fix the water leak that causes the amp to short out. If you look just above the amp is a white nipple that helps hold the black plastic trim, outside the truck, in place. Really dumb design. Ford has literally violated the watertight integrity of the metal deck lid for the sake of some ugly black plastic. Anyway, that nipple fills with water and overflows and drips right on top of the amp and results in a short. to fix the water leak, I used roofing tar around the nipple and sealed it off. So far, amp works great and no water leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW6212R Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Ryan Church said: I went to the dealer and replaced the amp. It cost me $110 to diagnose it. Cost me $600 to get a new one installed and programmed. It fixed all my issues with static or no sound at all. However, the sound is still not as loud as I would like it. In addition it fixed my door chime issues...chimes not playing through the stereo but coming from the dash. As an FYI if you replace your amp, you better fix the water leak that causes the amp to short out. If you look just above the amp is a white nipple that helps hold the black plastic trim, outside the truck, in place. Really dumb design. Ford has literally violated the watertight integrity of the metal deck lid for the sake of some ugly black plastic. Anyway, that nipple fills with water and overflows and drips right on top of the amp and results in a short. to fix the water leak, I used roofing tar around the nipple and sealed it off. So far, amp works great and no water leaks. It's good to hear you found a solution to the issue of your car. But the roofing tar? Let me introduce you to a car parts store, go to one and ask for Ultra Black RTV. Skip the hardware store for items for a car, throw that tar crap away. Learn about RTV and what it's for. I have used RTV in my three favorite versions, Ultra Black/Copper/Grey, for various needs for car use, plus for my house. It's way better than any caulk or roofing sealant, to prevent from leaks or the sun. Plus the RTV doesn't get hard and brittle after many years. I've got some on my chimney in a couple of places, to seal cables to a satellite dish through the flashing, and the chimney top cement surface(filling cracks). The Ultra Black RTV is still there and pliable, after 15-20 years. If you need more than one small tube of Ultra Black etc, go to Amazon, it's usually $1-3 less for each, than local stores. Edited October 20, 2020 by CDW6212R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Church Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 I wouldn’t have normally used tar but let me introduce you to using what you have at the time you need it. I had just done a roof job and the tar tube was literally sitting in my trash when I found the issue. Unless someone takes the black plastic off the back of my car, they will never see it. In addition, I only needed a pee size amount. I don’t need RTV nor would I use it for anything else so no need to keep a tube of it in my toolbox to become a solid tube of rubbery junk over the next several years waiting to be thrown away. I literally used what was already in the garbage and my problem is solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW6212R Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 I like the idea of using what you have, we all do that. But I'm familiar with the problems caused by non automotive products used on cars. The home type stuff works okay to begin with, but over time it fails in most cases when used for car needs. Ultra Black is up to about $8 a tube at parts stores now, around $5 is what I've been buying it for from Amazon. I've had very little of it ever dry out, and there's often needs for it in any house if you think of maintenance items. I last used it two weeks ago, for my back door top frame edge, where yellow jackets found a gap. They had gotten behind the wall and I bought and sprayed something made for them. After a month of that not running them away, I grabbed my RTV and sealed the small hole they made, and the other gaps along the top edge of the door frame(trim). They have not come back, and the RTV will last for ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Church Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 I love that this has become a “trust me, my way is better than your way.” I simply shared what I found and what I did. Now for some reason I must be convinced that your way is better than my way. If you wanted you simply could have written as an addition or reply, “Rather than using roofing tar, you can also use and I suggest RTV gasket maker etc.” But instead like a troll you jumped on and immediately started lashing. Totally not helpful. Forum is supposed to addressing the issue with the THX system and now it is all about your bees and RTV. Now, back to the reason for the forum, my problems have all been solved by replacing the amp and sealing the nipple. 17MKZ3.0TT 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW6212R Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 15 hours ago, Ryan Church said: I love that this has become a “trust me, my way is better than your way.” I simply shared what I found and what I did. Now for some reason I must be convinced that your way is better than my way. ... Great, I'm sorry for helping. You seem to think that you are the only person reading any of this. I post to help everyone. I aim my posts at a subject or person's post, but you feel free to be offended. This is the USA as far as I'm concerned, I treat people fairly and without worrying that some could be offended. That is what freedom is, it's not the right to never be offended. Regards, Don W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris109 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownGP Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 So I don't have any popping noises. Mine went to a LOUD white static noise to no sound from any source and I get the dumb chimes from behind the dash cluster. So after all the google searching it seems to be the ACM. I just took out the ACM after finding out it's in the truck. Sorta a pita. I didn't see any corrosion around the amp so not sure if that's the problem. BTW I have a 2013 with the 11 speaker system not the THX. It looks like there is TWO amps? Is that right. One right there in front and one on back side below the ACM? Going to get the ACM repaired by Automotive Circuit Solutions and see if fixes the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownGP Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 Well I sent the ACM off to Automotive Circuit Solutions. Hopefully that is the problem and not the amp. I don't seen any corrasion back there. It was a little pita trying to get it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multitask Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Opinions, like navels... every one has one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownGP Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 So if anyone cares. Got the ACM back from Automotive Circuit Solutions yesterday. Installed it and everything is back to normal.. Thank god. Very glad I found this thread showing me the ACM is in the trunk and not behind the dash.. Izzy3906 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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