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Coolant flush/transmission oil


'13mkzstudent

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I'll be doing those things soon, but it's a little tricky as almost nothing is available on-line.

I'm used to having access to an FSM.

 

The transmission should be pretty simple, drain and refill.  I doubt there is a filter to replace.

 

Coolant can be tricky.  I need to determine if my V6 has a drain on my radiator.  I was going to do my Uncles Buick V-6 last month only to find there was no drain and in that car, it's completed using a vacuum device/port. 

 

I only find a pretty pricey digital CD for the FSM.  On my old Nissan, they put the FSM on-line, which was fantastic. 

 

Folks here don't see to do much of their own work, for the reasons stated above. 

 

Perhaps someone will post some info.

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I see what you mean about expensive cd's:

 

 http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=FMC&Make=LNC&Model=MKZ+&Year=2017&Category=15&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=

 

It's the only one I could find too but I"ll keep looking. I'd like an FSM also.

 

C.

 

I've searched everywhere, to no avail.  Perhaps we could get a group buy going on one and share it?

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What's a FSM. And I just got done replacing all 4 wheel bearings on mine and have found that there is a lot of similar things between the Ford Fusion and Lincoln MKZ (same body and engine. Different trim features as I'm sure you all are aware). So I tried looking the maintance up for a fusion but again couldn't find anything for the newer models.

 

I'm not too concerned about the tranny fluid other than knowing how full to fill it. My wife's Cruze had a fill hole that you had to fill it to and it would come out of tranny when full. Her Cruze also had a drain valve for the coolant and it went pretty smoothly. I would think it wouldn't be much different for the MKZ being that it's similar year and both American companies.

 

Is there any way to get a hold of the maintance procedures from the company or anything similar to that?

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Sorry, FSM = Factory Service Manual

 

I did try searching for a Ford Haynes Manual, but they don't have one for that body (yet).

 

Modern automatic transmissions usually have a drain valve and they are filled thru the dipstick. (I measure what was drained out and refill, then check the stick).  You won't get all but most.  I haven't checked service intervals on the MKZ, but usually do a transmission drain/refill  around the 50k-60k mark.

 

The new trend in Chevy/Buick/Caddy V6's for coolant is the vacuum drain/fill, the four-cylinder cars look to still retain the drain.  I have to do my oil in a few weeks, I'll look for the drain on my 3.7L

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IDK if a coolant flush can be a DIY project on this car. The SM calls for specialized tools, i.e., a coolant system vacuum tester and refiller.  That would put me off right away.  Apparently, it's not just a simple drain, flush and refill/bleed.

 

Anyhow, here goes.

 


post-5-0-92866900-1488042457_thumb.jpg

post-5-0-90007700-1488042628_thumb.jpg

post-5-0-85698900-1488042696_thumb.jpg

post-5-0-62246600-1488042784_thumb.jpg

Use a hose to drain the coolant.

post-5-0-22910200-1488042947_thumb.jpg

 

Filling

post-5-0-79965400-1488043106_thumb.jpg

 

 

Install the vacuum cooling system filler and follow the manufacturer's instructions to fill and bleed the system.

General Equipment: Cooling System Vacuum Tester and Refiller

 

  • Measure the coolant concentration in the vehicle.

Special Tool(s): ROB75240 Coolant/Battery Refractometer (Fahrenheit)
 

  • Determine the concentration desired based on the vehicle duty cycle of extreme hot or cold operating conditions.
  • Add, top-off or adjust the coolant as follows:
  • For concentrations measured 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34˚C to -37˚C [-30˚F to -34˚F]) use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted to maintain a coolant concentration in this same range.

Material: Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted / VC-3DIL-B (WSS-M97B44-D2)

 

It appears that the drain and refill is done via the same opening at the bottom of the radiator but that you need a vacuum device to refill it.  Honestly, I'd pay the dealer to do it unless you have the knowledge and tools for this.

 

WRT the transaxle, the 6F transmissions have an internal filter which can't be accessed unless the case is split and disassembled.  So, you won't be able to change the filter.  For a flush and refill:

 

Remove the underbody shield as above and open the drain plug on the trans:

post-5-0-06266200-1488043952_thumb.jpg

post-5-0-75182000-1488044036_thumb.jpg

 

If the transmission was removed and disassembled, fill the transmission with 6.2L (6.5 qt) of clean transmission fluid. If the main control cover was removed, fill the transmission with 4.3L (4.5 qt) of clean transmission fluid.

Material: Motorcraft® MERCON® LV Automatic Transmission Fluid / XT-10-QLVC (WSS-M2C938-A) (MERCON® LV )

    • Start the engine and let it run for 3 minutes. Select the gears into each position and allow engagement for a minimum of ten seconds. Check the transmission fluid level by installing and removing the transmission fluid level indicator. When installing the transmission fluid level indicator, be sure it is seated and rotate it clockwise to the locked position. Adjust the transmission fluid level.
  1. Correct transmission fluid level at normal operating temperature 82°C-93°C (180°F-200°F).
  2. Low transmission fluid level.
  3. High transmission fluid level.

post-5-0-16760400-1488044234_thumb.jpg

 

© 2017 ALLDATA, LLC. All Rights Reserved

 

You'll have to do this 3 times to change most of the fluid.  If you don't want to do that, again, you could have the dealer do a flush and fill using their machine.

 

And for those fretting over the cost of a FSM, you can get a subscription to alldatdiy for $20-25/year.  It's not perfect but it does help, as you can see from the above.

 

 

 

post-5-0-60437100-1488044112_thumb.jpg

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'Great post DrOlds -- As you say, it seems the dealer would be the best best for those drains and refills due to our lack of specialty tools.

 

As with other maintenance items, it's not quite so simple as it once was.

 

The FSM would be a good find once one becomes available for a decent price.

 

Tnx for posting.

 

C.

Edited by colinsz
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Awesome Drolds1.

 

Do those photos posted apply to all motors?

 

Yep, as a feared on the coolant fill.  It appears that type of fill has become the new norm. 

I suspect if not filled that way, you won't be able to bleed all the air out of the system, which could be a big problem.

 

There should be a port on top of the engine somewhere for filling.  I'll have to pull my cover

 

The tranny fill seems simple enough.

 

When I get back under my car in the next few weeks, I'll investigate and take some pictures. (I'll be at 50k)

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I did a basic Coolant Flush and Fill just fine on my 2017 3.0T MKZ. Special tools aren't "needed" they just make things faster and and perhaps safer (if you do the engine running flush method, I recommend wearing some thermal gloves just in case for protection against any splashes).

 

I only have experience with the 2.0L Ecoboost Engine (on my 2014 Fusion) and now the 3.0T Engine on the MKZ, but I would go about the same way on the 3.7L Engine MKZ.

 

For a DIY coolant flush (no RADKITPLUS needed) this video should give you a good idea:

 

 

Basically you want to keep the system filled with water continuously, while the engine is running. I didn't use a garden hose and bought around 10 gallons of distilled water. I kept cycling till into the degas bottle as the thermostat would open (you will see the fluid decrease which I would start to pour fluid into the chamber to keep it leveled between MIN and MAX) pure water (then I started mixing in coolant till I injected about what is equal to half the entire system capacity given in your manual. As the car idles, the thermostat will open and close...releasing remaining coolant over time. You just keep this up till you're satisfied and ready to add your coolant mix into the system. Though I recommend buying pure coolant concentrate, mixing that in until you get a Refractor reading of 50/50 Coolant to Water ratio, and after driving the car in all kinds of load conditions (idle to WOT) that it remains at 50% reading (needle dead center) on the dashboard.

 

Just always keep the coolant level in between MIN and MAX, especially when the system is cold. Otherwise you will risk having your car puke extra coolant as you drive. Don't freak out if over the course of a week the fluid level drops, as the degas bottle helps purge any remaining air pockets from the system. Just top off till fluid level is in between MIN and MAX after the car has sat off and near ambient temperature.

 

Remember to run the HVAC system so the heater core line is fully open as well, and never let the thermostat open and fail to suck in any fluid...or you will get air bubbles stuck in the system.

 

As for the transmission, it is simply drain and fill. Follow the Ford Service Manual (You can find a Taurus SHO one which is very much identical as well). To do a transmission "flush" Is performing the drain and refill cycle about 3 times after going on some drives. It costs more but brings a peace of mind.

Edited by Zalvern
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On 2/26/2017 at 2:41 AM, drolds1 said:

Why did you change the coolant in your 2017?

 

To use the best coolant there is to date, along the other best engine fluids. I'll never have to worry about the water pump, thermostat, or system hoses wearing out due to sodium corrosion.

 

Edited by Zalvern
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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought a DVD Service manual for all FORD Products for 2014 for pretty cheap on ebay about a year ago.  But for that price I have to change the date on my computer back to close to the month it was issued to use it. 

 

Dang easy trick to save a bundle on the disk.  Only thing it doesn't have are the wiring diagrams. 

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  • 2 years later...

So, just did the transmission drain and fill.

 

I tell you what. That is a stupid place to put a dip stick fill port. Had to take off intake sound box thing just to get to it or else burn my self on the coolant hoses. 

 

I'm taking that little box off  soon and plugging that hole. It's only there to keep the intake noises down. 

Took a little over 4.5 qts. Shifts a lot nicer now. Real smooth. 

Edited by BlownGP
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21 hours ago, BlownGP said:

So, just did the transmission drain and fill.

 

I tell you what. That is a stupid place to put a dip stick fill port. Had to take off intake sound box thing just to get to it or else burn my self on the coolant hoses. 

 

I'm taking that little box off  soon and plugging that hole. It's only there to keep the intake noises down. 

Took a little over 4.5 qts. Shifts a lot nicer now. Real smooth. 

I was considering getting rid of that noise reduction box as well!    I'm due for a drain/fill in a few thousand miles.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 8 months later...

Hi. I recently bought a 2013 3.7 FWD with 40k miles. My first concern was getting all the fluids changed out. I have yet to flush the cooling system however I have changed the engine oil and transmission fluid. I thought I’d share my input on how I did it. 
 

Located under the air box you will find the transmission fill cap. Ford was nice enough to include a dipstick built into the cap. 
 

I started by going for a drive. Got the transmission fluid up to operating temperature. Then I removed the underbody cover and located the transmission drain bolt (there is no pan). 
 

After allowing the fluid to fully drain, I applied thread sealer to the drain bolt and carefully threaded it in to the case. (It’s easy to strip/crack the case). I added 4.5 quarts of Castrol TransMax Universal ATF from Walmart. The bottle says it’s compatible with Mercon LV so I trusted it. Per Ford the correct amount of fluid to add is 4.23 quarts, I added 4.5 because why not? Unfortunately there is no side drain like you would find on a differential. You can always check the fluid level with the dipstick but make sure the car is up to operating temperature first. 
 

So far I have performed 2 drain and fills. After the first drain and fill, I noticed a huge difference in shift quality. The car was no longer “bucking” when shifting between lower gears. After the second drain and fill I barely feel the transmission shift now. I’m not joking when I say it’s like a knife cutting through butter. I’m not sure about the long term but so far I have no issues with this Castrol TransMax ATF. I plan on doing this procedure every 5-10k miles. It’s literally so cheap and easy to do so why not ?‍♂️
 

Hope this helps even a little bit!

 

 

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