3.0T Battery System Management Issues

[Zalvern]

Ok, so one main issue I have had is the Battery Saving Management not remaining accurate in regards to charge states.

 

This results in audio chimes converting to the harsh dash tone instead of the premium tone.

 

When the car goes into sleep mode after being turned off, it will report back a different charge level (and it is not the battery itself being the issue), to which if the value is under 80% (or maybe 70%) the audio door chime and parking sensors will change.

 

I went to the dealership to do a FORScan reading on another 3.0T MKZ and even a Continental. Both exhibit similar behavior. This at least tell me it is not just my MKZ, but means there isn't a "fix" yet for it either.

 

I would like to know if other 3.0T owners have noticed thier door and sensor audio chimes changing between speaker and instrumental panel tone.

 

The other issue is BATTERY_TYPE in Ford IDS and FORScan have no listed value. This reports back as "error" and affects how efficiently the alternator performs at keeping the battery charged. With FORScan, I modified mine to the same default value via AS BUILT data to my 2014 Ford Fusion, and noticed my charge states do not decline as much prior.

 

I suspect initial factory programming is not quite right on these 3.0T vehicles. As a result they may exhibit strange voltage behavior at times.

 

There also seems to be faster drain issues if I shut down the vehicle with Auto Hold on and no e brake engagement. Now, I turn off the vehicle with Auto Hold off and engaging the E Brake switch instead.

 

If so, there isn't a fix for it yet but would help to get your dealership to report Lincoln on the issue, so they may work on updating the BSM to not irregularly report battery charge states. It can result in performance issues, as the ECU will attempt to cut back voltage power on various components.

 

For now just have to live with it...but its going to affect my choice on buying out my lease if not resolved by the end.

 

Be weary if letting the vehicle sit for long periods of time. Sitting 24 hours seems to get a charge loss of 10-15%, which is massive for when the vehicle is supposed to be asleep. It is restored quickly once the car is up and running, especially with a proper Battery Type setting (I use Varta 60ah 520CCA H5 Case) wheras my actual battery is the XS Power D4900 LN5 AGM. Stock batteries will be even worse in losing charge if there is a power programming issue when the car is shut down.

 

A 3.0T MKZ I tested on my dealership's lot had a battery charge reading of 25%. It did the dash board harsh chimes instead. Its battery age was 126 days and battery type was error.

 

All connections and ground points have been checked extensively by myself and my service dealer. No faults traced otherwise.

 

TL;DR: 3.0T engine vehicles are coming from the factory with Battery Type error and higher discharge rates while vehicle is asleep. No physical part faults found and believed to be a programming flaw. Affects audio chimes as vehicle thinks the battery is under charged.

 

Band aid fix: modify Battery Type in as built data to proper listed choice (FORScan/Ford IDS)

Edited November 8, 2016 by Zalvern

[17MKZ30T]

Zalvern,

 

I have had the same issue, It happens randomly, I rarely use the Auto hold or E parking brake. So I can't say there are related in my case.

I also have the gurgling heater core issue as well that I saw mentioned in another thread.  I haven't taken it in to have my dealer look at 

either of these issues yet.   Otherwise no complaints.

[drolds1]

The more things change...

 

The was a big sloshing/gurgling noise problem with the 2.5 Fusions beginning with the 2010MY.  It took Ford a long time to come up with a permanent fix, which consisted of installing a degas bottle from the 3.5.

[Zalvern]

In regards to the dash gurgling, for now it'll just have to be tolerated. As long your coolant stays above MIN on the degas bottle when cold from sitting, it should perform fine.

 

I've checked coolant temperatures and stock they average 205 to 215 as normal operating temperature. Cylinder temps will run about 230 to 250. Transmission should be 195 to 205. Transfer case 220 to 230. These all being average temperature ranges in Fahrenheit degrees.

 

Even under constant high load the coolant will do its job well depending on its quality to absorb heat. So we shouldn't have to worry about any coolant issues as long it is properly filled, despite the gurgling. I have not traced any leaks nor has my service dealer.

 

Anyways I'll continue to try and resolve the battery system management issue. I'm highly convinced it is a programming error in the AS BUILT file which I'll try and figure out the fix to cease the excessive battery draining.

 

At least I know how to fix the Battery Type to improve the alternator's charging rate. But this excessive sleep mode drain is annoying.

[Zalvern]

Can confirm Fusion Sports are also suffering from this. I checked three at a Ford Dealership, and sure enough it has "Battery Type" as error. I've noticed owners on the Fusion Sport Forums complaining about battery issues, which piped my interest to do some data diving on one. They have gurgling dash complaints as well.

 

It's not the battery though...I know it has to be the darn system itself. Either the programming or the Body Control Module. I'm leaning towards programming due to so many having the same flighty issue (comes and goes).

Edited November 10, 2016 by Zalvern

[JHVJXN]

Well 700 miles and my transmission seal is leaking. Also have the gurgling noise issue.

 

Not happy about the seal leak. It's only had it 3 weeks

[Zalvern]

Well 700 miles and my transmission seal is leaking. Also have the gurgling noise issue.

 

Not happy about the seal leak. It's only had it 3 weeks

A bummer about the transmission. Must be weak unit made during manufacturing. I've changed the fluid in mine and even run it a little over max capacity.

[Zalvern]

Alright. I'm concluding either my IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster Module) or ACM (Audio Control Module) is bugged. One of them either needs replacing or reprogramming...

 

Here is why:

 

When my audio chimes start sounding like dash board sounds, all I have to do is reset the ACM module and then the IPC module in that order. If I reset the IPC first, it stays. If I reset the ACM first, there is no door sounds at all until I reset the IPC. Once this is done, chimes are fixed, until some time down the road it goes back to the dash board (instrument panel) sounds.

 

This is REALLY annoying to get the dealership to fix because it comes and goes. I may just need a new ACM but lol, trying to get that claim fulfilled is going to be a pain. Even worse if it is the IPC instead. But honestly, I'm a bit salty as I would of rejected this lease until it was fixed, which now of course I get the whole run around from service departments because "they can't replicate the problem". Having to reset the modules manually every time the sound goes awry is a pain.

 

I managed to fix my battery simply by giving it a proper battery type, and replugging the BSM connector (on the negative terminal). So that issue is fixed. However the door chimes is totally a bug on its own. I absolutely still do not know what triggers it because the car will sit and be fine...then I take a quick trip to the grocery store, and upon coming back, bad door/sensor chimes are back again.

Edited November 14, 2016 by Zalvern

[schteve]

Mine has started doing the same thing. (With the chime). I have already talked to the dealership and I will take it in after we return from our trip to Denver. I have been somewhat reliably able to reproduce the change to the instrument cluster sound by shutting the car off with auto hold on AFTER I have actually used the auto hold feature. I.e. Stopping long enough for the indicator to illuminate.

 

But it's not a 100% thing. But getting it back to standard chime. So far it has been "correcting" itself after I lock the car and leave it for a short period of time. Just shutting the car off and restarting doesn't seem to do it, nor does just a lock/unlock sequence, there has to be a time component,

[Zalvern]

Mine has started doing the same thing. (With the chime). I have already talked to the dealership and I will take it in after we return from our trip to Denver. I have been somewhat reliably able to reproduce the change to the instrument cluster sound by shutting the car off with auto hold on AFTER I have actually used the auto hold feature. I.e. Stopping long enough for the indicator to illuminate.

 

But it's not a 100% thing. But getting it back to standard chime. So far it has been "correcting" itself after I lock the car and leave it for a short period of time. Just shutting the car off and restarting doesn't seem to do it, nor does just a lock/unlock sequence, there has to be a time component,

Thanks for sharing that. I have suspected it being the Auto Hold feature, as it is utilizing the E Brake to hold the car in place whenever it activates. There are times I have tested by shutting down the car with Auto Hold on and off.

 

By running a self test diagnoitic with FORScan, under the BdyCM (Body Control Module) it will turn up a minor DTC CD100: Short to Ground - Parking Brake Switch

 

Parking Brake Switch is the little switch just under our headlight control unit. I do usually engage the parking brake prior to shutting down the car, to prevent it from "rolling" a little after lifting my foot off the brake pedal.

 

Sometimes it may correct after being shut down completely (and locking the doors and keeping the key fob away). Sometimes it persists which I have to reset both the IPC and ACM via FORScan to correct it.

 

But yes, I do think it may somehow be a issue with the Electronic Braking System, which is what Auto Hold uses. Almost any Ford/Lincoln vehicle can "Auto Hold" using the E brake, then lightly tapping the accelerator pedal to release it, I've done it on my Fusion but it doesn't illuminate your brake lights like Auto Hold does (So don't E Brake in the street at Red Lights unless you want to risk getting rear ended). A programming bug most likely.

 

I believe a wide variety, if not all 2017 vehicles with Auto Hold may have this issue...as it randomly comes and goes and is hard to 100% nail.

Edited November 14, 2016 by Zalvern

[pjrocco]

Mine is doing the same. I noticed if I start the vehicle using the remote starter, get it and press the "run" button while the door is open, it will always make the harsh chime. Other times it's random. 

 

Experiencing the gurgling sound as well. 

 

Also, this car is a rattle box. As the climate is dropping, it's even worse. I can't even listen to music with bass without hearing buzzing in multiple panels. 

[Zalvern]

After all this time...I finally and truly figured out how to get the chime bug 100%, how to avoid it, and what causes it.

 

Its the Auto Folding Mirrors.

 

When you shut the driver's door, the mirrors will unfold. If you press the start button before they finish unfolding then the chimes will become irregular.

 

As long you wait for them to finish unfolding first and then start the car (this applies even if you remote start the warm up the vehicle) you'll avoid the chime bug issues.

 

I've confirmed this with a dealer and had it sent towards Lincoln. Interesting thing is it seems to only be on 3.0T vehicles...I tried a 2.0T and it worked okay.

[brucelinc]

Well, that was an easy fix!

[Zalvern]

In the end, the actual proper fix is to get the following Oasis Module updates applied:

 

SSM 46128 - 2017 MKZ/Fusion - Battery Drain - Built On Or Before 6/3/2016 

ISSUE:
Some 2017 MKZ and Fusion vehicles equipped with memory seats and built on or before 6/3/2016 may exhibit a discharged battery or a battery drain condition. 

ACTION:
Reprogram the driver door module (DDM) to the latest calibration using the Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) version 102.02 or higher. 

 

SSM 46440 - 2017 Fusion/MKZ/Continental/MKX - No Audio, Navigation Inoperative, Unable To Access Audio Features From All Controls With DTC U0184 

ISSUE:
Some 2017 Fusion, MKZ, Continental and MKX with an instrument panel center mounted speaker may exhibit no audio, navigation inoperative, inability to access audio features with all controls including steering wheel switches and voice commands with Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) U0184. If unable to communicate with the audio control module (ACM), remove the radio power fuse for 10 minutes to reset the ACM. 

ACTION:
Reprogram the ACM to the latest calibration using the Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 104.03 or higher.

 

This should solve everything.

Edited April 24, 2017 by Zalvern