JayD

Intriguing topic for me, as I just received four brand new 17" wheels for my 2010. I plan on fitting the old rims with Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2's come fall, for my winter set. I will move my Michelin Premier A/S's to the new wheels for my Spring-Fall set.

Paid $150 cash for lifetime warranty, Ceramic Flex 15% on the Rear Doors and back window. Won't even touch the fronts, until I have a prescription written. I don't need the hassle.

These should have been stock. 2010 MKZ with SHO tips.

Yes. Perfectly normal.

I use a combination of mostly Ammo products and Meguiar's 205, Correction Compound and Finishing Wax. It also helps having Kevin Brown's number in your phone. He IS the guru.

I tried every possibly home install. Some of the 2010's have a finicky version of SYNC and this update will have to be installed at a dealer. I paid $50, against my salesman's annoyance with even paying for it to begin with.

Staring around $45000, as this will replace the MKS. I am thrilled to see the Continental nameplate returning.

Only the tires, brakes and oil need a change. The fuel filter is a permanent one, that will need replacing around 100k. The flushes are around 75k-80k. The only normal wear and tear item are the tie rod ends usually around 80k. This is what was relayed to me by my dealer and I drive a 2010.

The lid mounted assemblies are "parking/running lights" with the reverse marker at the bottom.

I had them on for three weeks and to properly use the "in channels", means that you have to push in the rubber seal on the front and rear doors. I took them off and do not regret it.

Yep.

Vinegar WILL increase the risk of jacking up the paint. Personally, the only time I ever used it, was on the Chrome Bumper of my 96 F-150 (not on plastic "chrome") to remove bugs like no bug and tar remover can. For chrome, there is nothing better, just be careful when hosing off.. Vinegar and paint mixing, is a huge tempest in a teapot waiting to happen and I will never use it on our 2010 and 2015 MKZ's. Someone mentioned using a California Water Blade. Maybe on the windows, but having used one about seven years ago? Too many issues can arise from the use of it on paint. I now use microfiber. Not so much criticizing as I am trying to prevent some from potentially causing damage.

I have 15% on the back/rear windows on my 2010. Here is the most accurate chart for the U.S. http://www.iwfa.com/Portals/0/PDFDocs/Law_Charts/StateLawChart2192015.pdf

Although I have a 2010 MKZ as my Daily Driver, I replaced the OEM with PIAA Si-Tech Silicone Flat Wiper Blades. They are worth the money spent and they do not streak. My wife has Bosch wiper blades on her 2012 MKZ and even she notices the difference.

Instead, 1. Wash Car 2. (optional) Presoak heavily oxided tips with something like: http://www.detailersdomain.com/1Z-einszett-W99_p_273.html 3. Agigtate with an old round spoke brush 4. Apply this (even if you used Step 2): http://www.detailersdomain.com/P21S-Polishing-Soap_p_68.html . Be mindful of not to graze the paint as it will incur scratching. 5. Hose off. 6. (optional) If carbon/soot buildup remains, use some 000 Steel Wool. 7. Hose off 8. Apply some Metal Polish (Griot's Garage, P21) 9. Wipe/Buff with Microfiber Towel, after hazed and if needed, apply a sealant (Sonus is a good one) Steps 2 and 6 would be used for blackened exhaust tips. You will get a mirror finish.

I used to use Sonax Leather Cleaner/Conditioner as it is a foam and is nice for the perforated portions. But now I only use AMMO NYC products on my vehicles, except for the Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. The AMMO interior products are second to none in terms of performance, per product used. The same could be said for all of Larry's products to be honest.

New to the forum and the owner of a 2010 MKZ, while the wife drives a 2012 MKZ. I look forward to the info, as well as passing on knowledge.

After using more than 25 different Wheel Cleaners, I have settled on Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner and it will not harm the clear coat. I use a Daytona Speed Master wheel brush and a smaller version to get the spoke rears. You can apply a light coat of wax to inhibit a little brake dust from accumulating, but I find the practice to be a waste of product (wax), if you use the right wheel cleaner.