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I just use the android auto app, for google assistant, navigation, and google play music... Android auto apps have to be specifically for android auto. Not all apps will work because they don't want you playing plants vs zombies driving down the freeway

Anybody chase and catch the junker? I hate that crap.

What's the difference between 3.7 and 3.8? I already have navigation, but wish the map was on the home screen. I don't have an iPhone so Siri eyes free is useless to me.

APIM config modification? i guess this is one of those extended license things

Thanks Willy.  I miss my old OBD-2 program, that had several 02 sensor monitoring features.

I'll had Advance again tomorrow, ran out of time this evening.

 

I did happen to clean and re-oil my Green air filter last weekend ,and wondered if that wasn't the issue.  (I was pretty careful to not over-oil, but who knows).  I usually clean the TB and MAF on those task but didn't last weekend, I hope that didn't bite me (well, that would be an easy fix).  I bought the Green precisely because of all the MAF issues being reported lately with K&N filters.  I've used a K&N in all my vehicles since the early 90's without any issues, perhaps I should have stuck with them...

 

More to come!

upstream, both air sensors, I was going to say bad gas but clearing quickly said no. The air filter did it. I'm saying.

I did some looking into this at one point. I know blis functions without the park aid module, but i'd imagine the side object detectors still need proper specific CAN input to know the difference between park and drive. as doctor olds said, you're probably better off with an aftermarket kit. maybe even wiring in your lights to the other kit if your really adventurous.

Wait, nevermind! It's now complaining about the oil pressure again.  :(

oil pressure light on my '10 mkz was the oil pressure switch. you need to have someone hook a guage up there, and make sure you are getting adequate pressure.

might not be power steering. There is oil in the refrigerant. In fact, thats usually how i find leaks on a vehicle, is look for that oil caked up with road gunk.

I have a 2010 that has the "guy behind you with his brights on" sensor at the bottom of the mirror, and the middle brake light usually blocks this. I was about to switch out to one that has the sensor in the glass where it was supposed to be, but got hung up trying to figure out where to put the mic after. The microphone in my version is built in to the mirror, and the newer version would require a seperate microphone. i think 2013 was the next platform. 

If you pry apart the felt dust guard i bet you will find that is a coin or something. You probably have to remove the unit to get it out though, or just not be gentle. I'd probably take it in, or look up the exploded diagram on a pay website.

So for about 3 years, my park aid system (rear sonar) has been busted. The car reminds me every start up. The module registers a fault in the speaker circuit, but the speaker ohms fine. finally on a whim I pulled the side rear seat pillar thing that the module lives behind and unplugged the connector. I no longer get an error message in the message center and blind spot still works fine. For me the sonar was kind of redundant anyways since I relied on my camera more anyways. So in a way, fixed!

I have a sound kind of like that but i'm sure its my AWD ptu going bad. at 190k surely the thing has leaked at some point.

Oh and by the way they are still out dated and have a ton of missinformation as in very old restaurants and gas stations and missing roads. A real rip off.

I just bought a set ( since our maps are now provided by HERE) and its all up to date. It worried me because it said installation of one of the disks can take 2 hours, but it actually keeps going if your car is turned off. I paid 165 "out the door" and i'm happy about it.....

'10 mkz awd. I'm losing my mind trying to find the learn button. I've pulled the kick panel, the middle lower dash, the steering wheel shroud, the panel on between the door and the dash. I've found my generic lojack module, and i think 3 modules for the remote start, but not the button. Is it possible the dealership cut the button off? I can't find the button for the life of me.

Edit: I found it, it was in the little door between the dash and the driver side, zip tied to a harness, and turned around so i could'nt see it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ISCmAkbDyrx5yYnC3 its that little black circle with nub in it. I had to highlight the photo to make it visible.

gps "outage"  The only one i remember wasn't an outage, but a military test of a jamming device. The gps signal is very week. Sometimes just being in a steep canyon can block it. A single sattelite outage should be invisible if it were to ever occur. A systemic gps outage shouldn't happen.

sounds like a low charge

agreed. best way to fix this would be to get it serviced. If its not a low charge the tv valve might be messed up, but that gets expensive.

I adjusted the glass on my '10 to make it line up more to my liking. The accordion covers clip off easily. this reveals torx screws which when loosened allow the glass to be adjusted. The screws are only visible when open, so i had to open, adjust, then close to check. once this was done i clipped the accordion back into place.

If this doesn't help you should probably include a picture of the thing to help illustrate your predicament.

185K miles. it was the thermostat. The rubber got flakey, and part of it got stuck in the valve area. it doesn't open when heated. thankfully it was this and not the water pump

So today drove 26 miles home from work, no issues noted. Stopped at the gas station to get the wife some cigarettes. on the 2.5 miles home the air quit blowing cold. Checked gauges, over heating. Eased it home. Radiator cap is off, overflow bottle is empty. Fill it up, start hearing this knocking noise, almost like a relief valve lifting at the power plant. Eventually things calm down. Turn on ECU, temp normal. 200. Idle for 6 minutes, temperature climbs to 240. Bottle starts coughing and spitting. Shut down. 

To me it sounds like the thermostat is shut, but I don't know. 

Anyone know how to tell the difference between water pump and thermostat problems on these 3.5L engines?

I don't know. ... if that's the case that would be useless. They don't stay in they just read as far as I could tell.

Yeah, thats how they can afford to stay in business. They sell YOU a set of DVDs.

They have rebuild kits. Mine was too far gone, so i ordered a caliper that had the bracket, swapped bracket and returned the new caliper and old bracket for cores. Cheap if i remember correctly, if you return the core.

Not sure, DrOlds can correct me, but i think the Map set is unique to a number in your radio. Don't think renting a set would help

my 2010 lives in arizona, and i failed to condition the leather. I didn't worry, then one day i looked up and they were trashed.

Condition your leather.

I'm on my fourth AWD MKZ so obviously, I'm an advocate.   I've never gotten stuck in snow but I'm reasonable about it. I don't try to drive through two feet of snow where the car is going to get hung up. It's not a plow  It's confidence-inspiring in the rain as well.  If you like cornering, it helps there too.  Judicious use of the throttle will help by putting power down in the rear and countering the natural tendency of FWD cars to understeer.  As Airflow mentions above, this is especially true with the Driver's Package in the 2017s with torque vectoring.

 

Ford's Intelligent AWD is not just engaged only when it detects a traction issue.  Even on dry pavement, when accelerating from a stop, the rear differential is engaged up to about 40mph/1500rpm.  At that point, the rear differential disengages and the TCC locks up. Sometimes, you'll feel a slight vibration as these two events occur.  This was a serious issue in my 2010 and they replaced lots of expensive driveline parts until Ford engineers told them to stop; it can't be fixed without major reprogramming and among other things, that would have to get run by the EPA.  My 2012 was a bit better but you could still feel it.  It was much less obvious in my 2013 (different trans).  I've felt it a couple of times in the 2017 but you'd really have to be looking for it.  It's like running over a rumble strip.

 

I digress. Here's a video that explains how Ford's Intelligent AWD works.  It's for a Ford, but Lincoln is similar.  There's an animated graphic available in the left info cluster that shows how power is being applied to the four wheels. 

 

2017 Ford Escape AWD Test

 

 

BTW, Ford hasn't used Haldex AWD systems for years.

Well i guess i'll quit worrying about my 15-40 mph vibe then. boo.

I'd very much doubt it. I'm still leaning towards the stock amplifier controlling gain. Have you looked up the drawings? have you tested the wires with a meter?