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4N1M4L

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Everything posted by 4N1M4L

  1. doctor olds and i both use alldatadiy for drawings. its relatively cheap, and has the drawings your looking for. or you could get a short term subscription to motorcraftservice. if you use motorcraftservice i recommend saving every single drawing you could possibly need since its for 72hours Looks like 72 hours on motorcraftservice is $19, and 1 year on alldatadiy is $27. alldatadiy might not have all the stuff that motorcraftservice has but it should have what you need
  2. Do you know what year the donor car was? i looked at my drawings for '10 and couldn't find a purple and yellow purple pair (maybe the donor wires were faded)
  3. I'm guessing the amplifier controls gain? If you have a meter, hook up to those wires and see what you get. If it changes with volume, then you have your culprit.
  4. yup, looks like you could use a hair dryer and a modest amount of brute force.
  5. search function for the WIN! i have this same problem. Wonder if OP ever fixed his?
  6. if its still working, then its probably fine. if it bugs you a solution might (MIGHT!) be to find a solid state version of that relay, and replace it. I'd live with it. just another indicator that my wipers are working to me.
  7. upload a picture. on my 2010, the bolt/screws come out, and then you get a hair dryer to soften the glue holding it in. the glue keeps rattles away. when you put in a new one get some adhesive action going again.
  8. I'd probably just take it in. Cat codes could either be your cat being melted from misfired gas, or an o2 sensor, but if your just throwing parts at it then 400 might be cheap.
  9. So in settings... no there is no way. I searched through the 2014 manual online and found bupkiss. covering a sensor would just make them dim all the time. This might sound harsh, but have you tried not driving with the lights on all the time? The car turns the headlights on and off automatically, along with the dash lights, so they adapt to the ambient light levels the same way your eyes do. They put quite a bit of effort into making this as painless and convinient as possible. I enjoy it, along with ambient lighting. I do quite a bit of night driving though. Is it often overcast where you are, and the headlights don't come on when you think they should?
  10. The SJB is likely detecting what it thinks is a bad headlight. You may be better off putting the old ones back in. If you are feeling like trying something you could probably run them their own fuses, and have the old halogen circuit actuate a relay. A relay coil is closer to a halogen bulb than an HID ballast.
  11. Scotty kilmer has a video that is for that same code, and might be relevant to you. That code means too much air or not enough fuel. on my '10 the intake manifold was plastic. You can do his trick with the carb cleaner (or starting fluid) When i got that lean code it was also able to register that a cylinder was misfiring. I replaced that cylinder's injector (after getting confused about chevrolet cylinder numbering vs ford) and it worked fine after. Edit: grammar
  12. one of the things i love about my 2010, when i get a music dvd in it. Jimi Hendrix - isle of wight, Marilyn Manson - Guns, God and Government, and Nine Inch Nails - Beside you in time. Those make my mkz worth keeping. I've tried the newer models sound, and they all sound tinny compared. Blew my center channel though, been researching how to replace it for a while, about ready to order parts.
  13. I had to let it sit for a long time. Try running the version checker tool first.
  14. On my 2010 the compressor wouldn't kick in during a misfire to keep load off the faulted engine. When I replaced the faulty injector the ac came right back. Be careful driving on misfires. It can lead to a ruined catalytic converter if left that way.
  15. Bump Is there no other techniques for troubleshooting this? Verify suppy voltage, try a new bulb, try a new ballast? The ballast I already changed is acting funny, and the other one looks great, except when it just shuts off. Comes back on with a cycle of the headlamp switch, so maybe a relay? So maybe supply voltage check, (my alternator only puts out 13 volts, probably degrading lots of things) then start with the cheapest part and work my way up?
  16. Part came in, adhered it to the sensor first, then the windshield. Works like a charm now.
  17. probably low voltage to the hvac control module. I had a battery going bad enough the hcm would lose power on starting, everything else would be fine, but the a/c would default to 75 degrees/full auto aand the temperature out here usually means to get to 75 you need air conditioning. 2010 mkz. just a guess, we'll have to see if he writes back
  18. So, I'm on liability insurance cause things ha e gotten that way for a little bit. Had a guy come out and replace my windshield, that probably wouldn't get hired by insurance. Rain sensing wipers haven't worked since, and I've lost the guys information. Turns out there is a clear gel disk that couples the sensor to the windshield, that he omitted. Its onky $10 on ebay. But whats interesting, is fhat if you disconnect the sensor, the wipers default to intermittent wipers. I'll update this once the part comes in. http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=181788874853&alt=web
  19. http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/12098-vent-switching-problem-2006-se/?do=findComment&comment=78382 That's an 06, but you are probably right, and pulling the dash sounds terrible. If I can see the mode actuator, I'll see if the actuated device turns
  20. You wouldn't happen to remember which forum or anything?
  21. Could have been something stuck in the abs tone ring. If it went away, and doesn't come back... And your mechanic doesn't tell you there is gravel in your oil change, you're good
  22. Boo, recalibrate fails. Maybe I can get at this the same time I change out my center speaker?
  23. I'll try doing the pull fuse/ door calibrate trick, and see if it will return to life tonight.
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