JoeBrown

A 300 HP AWD  non-turbo engine is not an economy car.

My car was still under the factory warrantee at the time. It didn't cost me anything and I got a loaner car (MKx) when they were working on it.
 

Your vehicle MAY be involved in a safety recall and MAY create a safety risk for you or your passengers. If left unrepaired, a potential safety defect could lead to injury or even death. Safety defects must be repaired by a dealer at no cost to you.
Why am I getting this email?
You are receiving this message because you requested to be notified by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) if there is a safety recall that may affect your vehicle.
The following may apply to one or more of your vehicles if your vehicle is listed below. Click on the NHTSA Recall ID Number below to read more about the safety issue and the reason for the recall.
To find out if your specific passenger vehicle is included in the recall, use our VIN Look-up Tool.
    NHTSA Recall ID Number :
19V632
Manufacturer :
Ford Motor Company
Subject :
Steering Gear Motor May Detach
  Make
Model
Model Years
FORD
EDGE
2015-2016
FORD
FUSION
2013-2016
LINCOLN
MKX
2016
LINCOLN
MKZ
2013-2016
        What is a recall?
When a manufacturer or the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) determines that a vehicle creates an unreasonable risk to safety or fails to meet minimum safety standards, the manufacturer is required to fix that vehicle at no cost to the owner. That can be done by repairing it, replacing it, offering a refund (for equipment) or, in rare cases, repurchasing the car.
What should I do if my vehicle is included in this recall?
If your vehicle is included in this recall, it is very important that you get it fixed as soon as possible given the potential danger to you and your passengers if it is not addressed. You should receive a separate letter in the mail from the vehicle manufacturer, notifying you of the recall and explaining when the remedy will be available, whom to contact to repair your vehicle, and to remind you that the repair will be done at no charge to you. If you believe your vehicle is included in the recall, but you do not receive a letter in the mail from the vehicle manufacturer, please call NHTSA's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236, or contact your vehicle manufacturer or dealership.
Thank you for your attention to this important safety matter and for your commitment to helping save lives on America's roadways.
Additional Resources
Understanding Vehicle Recalls
Recalls FAQ
Thank you,
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
United States Department of Transportation
 
My VIN does not come back a vehicle on the recall but figured I'd share this notice
 
NHTSA_Safety_Issues.pdf

Hello Checkerboard see if this video helps.
 
 

Hi Scott.  The "pothole mitigation" to which drolds is referring is programming parameters which the MKZ Active Suspension has. Simple explanation: That programming helps to keep the wheel/tire from dropping into a pothole.  Sensors in the front of the MKZ "read" the road ahead and try to adjust for potholes by allowing the active suspension to hold the wheel up in the air momentarily This allows it to sort of float over the pothole, instead of dropping into it. Of course, it has limitations, as you may have found out.
Hope this explanation is understandable.

Hi pwcopy.  Welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum.  I realize you understand what you are asking, but at least to me, your post is a bit unclear ("...but it's been sound when I exit the car..." ?). Could you be a little clearer as to what sounds you are referring to, where your keys are at the time etc?
As far as the horn honking when you exit the vehicle with the engine running: That is necessary, due to the push button start system. Otherwise, inattentive drivers would far too often be leaving their cars with the engine running and the keyfob in their pockets. That could be deadly in a home with an attached garage or similar situations (even with a timed shut-off).
Concerning the car making noises when you exit with the engine off: The car should not be making any sounds when you exit the car, engine off, keys in hand/pocket etc. Unless you press a keyfob button or keyless entry keypad buttons.  And what is "going off" three times that would aggravate your neighbors?
If you are getting two beeps when you press the lock button on the keyfob, that means something is not closed.  Could be a door, the trunk, hood etc.. if everything is closed, you may have another issue that needs diagnosis and repair. But as I said earlier, your post is a bit confusing.
In the meantime, your Owners Manual explains all the entry/exit alert and warning sounds and how to enable/disable those that are programmable, through the Drivers Information Center.
If you do not have your Owners Manual, you can download a PDF copy on the Lincoln Owners website: https://owner.lincoln.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals.html
Get back to us to clarify your previous post and good luck.

I just received notice that there is a new navigation map available for my 2014 MKz. The SD media card is labeled A10. The price is $149.00 with free shipping.

The original name was Lincoln LS Owners Club.
 

This is the final resolution to my problem with vibration at 45-55 mph.
A few times I had thought they had corrected the problem. However, after a few days it became clear that it was still there. I had made two additional visits to my dealer after my last update here.
Eventually the dealer had to contact the Lincoln Mother Company for technical assistance. They had my car for about a month in that mode. During that period they changed additional parts without success. Finally they told me they needed another part. This part was on back order. I picked up my car with the promise they would let me know when the part came in.
After almost  month the part was received. I brought my car in and they had it for three days. When I picked up the car the problem was actually fixed. I waited about two weeks before I posted this message.
The final part that really fixed it was:
Part No - CV6Z-4A232-A
Clutch Repair Kit

This is the final resolution to my problem with vibration at 45-55 mph.
A few times I had thought they had corrected the problem. However, after a few days it became clear that it was still there. I had made two additional visits to my dealer after my last update here.
Eventually the dealer had to contact the Lincoln Mother Company for technical assistance. They had my car for about a month in that mode. During that period they changed additional parts without success. Finally they told me they needed another part. This part was on back order. I picked up my car with the promise they would let me know when the part came in.
After almost  month the part was received. I brought my car in and they had it for three days. When I picked up the car the problem was actually fixed. I waited about two weeks before I posted this message.
The final part that really fixed it was:
Part No - CV6Z-4A232-A
Clutch Repair Kit

This is the final resolution to my problem with vibration at 45-55 mph.
A few times I had thought they had corrected the problem. However, after a few days it became clear that it was still there. I had made two additional visits to my dealer after my last update here.
Eventually the dealer had to contact the Lincoln Mother Company for technical assistance. They had my car for about a month in that mode. During that period they changed additional parts without success. Finally they told me they needed another part. This part was on back order. I picked up my car with the promise they would let me know when the part came in.
After almost  month the part was received. I brought my car in and they had it for three days. When I picked up the car the problem was actually fixed. I waited about two weeks before I posted this message.
The final part that really fixed it was:
Part No - CV6Z-4A232-A
Clutch Repair Kit

Is this a car that you've had for a while?  Or is it new to you?
Did this happen to one side first, and then the second side?
Most likely it means that the heating element is broken at some point, and it usually occurs in the seat pad element.  The seat pad and back pads are connected by a wire in each seat.  It happened in my 07 Fusion, drivers side seat bad had a spot where it burnt and the wire had separated.  When turning it on, the light stayed on for two seconds, and then went out.  This is a common heated seat element failure, in pretty much all makes.  I pulled the seat, opened it up and found the burnt spot.  I ordered a new seat pad and installed it, and it worked fine again.

That's correct.  There are no compass reset instructions for Gen-2 cars.  First-gen cars had a separate compass module.  IDK how the compass in Gen-2 cars operates.  I suspect it's integrated into Sync or the programming of the IC.  
To the OP:  you might try a master reset or disconnecting the battery to see if it resets.  If not, you'll probably need to visit a dealer.  One thing I can be certain of is that no amount of waxing your car is going to adversely affect the compass.   

There's no "regular cap" that would work on a capless filler.

No.  The MKZ didn't get Sync3 until the 2017MY.  The SUVs had it earlier.
BTW, there's no software to update a Sync2 to Sync3.

Although I still have to learn the finer features, I like what I see.

Yes, I saw  your post #15.  No need for me to see it again.  Did you see my post #2?  I reiterate: The decklid is NOT SUPPOSED TO OPEN WITH THE EXTERIOR SWITCH IF THE DOORS ARE LOCKED AND THE FOB IS NOT WITHIN 3FT OF THE CAR.  Why would Lincoln issue a TSB to correct a malfunction if it was designed that way in the first place?  How would owners of cars without a power decklid apply your "fix?"  There's no switch to disengage in their menu.
 
All you did by disengaging the switch was shut off the power decklid feature. 
 
My 2017's decklid will not open by pressing the exterior switch if the doors are locked and the fob is not present EVEN WITH THE SWITCH IN THE 'ENGAGED' POSITION.  (I can shout over the Internet too).

The APIM does handle HD but it's odd that you can get HD1 but not HD2.  Did you try HD3?  Maybe try a master reset.  You can put the system into diagnostic mode and check the APIM.  IDK if this will help you any but FWIW, here is a demo for a Ford but yours should be similar.
 
That brought back memories.  I used to listen to 102.7 WNEW-FM in the 60s & 70s, when album rock was big on FM radio.  Scott Muni, Allison Steele-The Nightbird, etc.  Great times!
 
 

FWIW trying to "retrofit" technology is always going to be problematic.

I've never had this happen on my 2014. The weather seems to have no effect on my Z.

My poor little MKZ (pre-owned) was grossly neglected. On delivery it was covered with hard, and I mean 'hard' water spots; paint, glass including side mirrors and chrome trim. I don't know if it was the Lincoln dealer who admitted they only "had a fella' come by once a week to spray the vehicles down with a pressure washer" or the previous owner that caused the neglect.
 
First stop was my storage closet only to find that all my old cleaners had turned into garbage (and that's where they ended up). So on to several stores to see what I could find to restore my new (to me) beautiful vehicle. :shoppingcart_: I came back loaded for bear only to find that nothing I had purchased, even the 'specialty' auto water spot removers even touched the spots on the glass (windows or side mirrors). I was getting very discouraged about accomplishing anything without professional help, which is not easy to come by locally (but that's another story).
 
Although nothing worked on the glass I did find something that worked on the paint, it is "Meguiar's Water Spot Remover & Multi-Surface Polish". It took some serious hand buffing but it worked and finally gave my something to smile about (from past experience I know that putting an electric buffer in my hands can be disastrous).
 
Desperate to fix the glass (driving toward the Sun was blinding me) I watched YouTube videos for hours. So back to the stores to buy one more "Meguiar's Water Spot Remover" and some "Bar Keepers Friend" which according to the videos BKF has to work, right?, wrong! Didn't touch these bad spots. Thankfully, while grabbing the Bar Keepers Friend I noticed one small plastic bottle for removing hard water spots left on the shelf... oh well, what's one more product to try: But this stuff worked! All windows, mirrors, spots gone; I was celebrating, what a relief. :yahoo: I was beginning to think I was stuck with awful looking glass. The product is called Bio-Clean: My local ACE hardware sells it but I bought the last bottle. These folks do have a web site but also sell on eBay where I purchased a large bottle (probably a life time supply for me)  
 
I'm curious to know if this stuff is similar to "McKee's 37 High Performance Glass Restorer". If anyone uses and compares both products please post.
 
MAB 
 
 

Shopping @ Wal-Mart for goodies for the MKZ I spotted Universal Car Remote(s) hanging on a counter display. Carousing the 'compatible' info, it did not list my 2012 MKZ but for $25 and with Wal-Mart's return policy I decided to give it a try. It's a 6 button remote Lock, Unlock, Alarm, Trunk and 2 blank programmable buttons (by some vehicles) cleverly labeled I & II. Knowing that the MKZ service manual includes the Ford Fusion, I tried using the code and instructions for the fusion... works fine. First 4 buttons work as original fob... buttons 5 & 6 nothing, would be nice if one of them could work the remote start :)
 
MAB 

Maybe take it to a good auto body shop and ask them about the fitment something does not sound right for sure. As for the rest of you out of warranty and bad trim try a quality body shop also and see about refinishing the trim? They may have some better ideas on a paint or coating that will hold up better. I have a great auto body guy that runs his own little shop and he knows his stuff if my trim starts to fail out of warranty I will have him work some magic on the pieces in question.

I have seen this topic over in the Conti forum, but I thought I would post it here as well.
 
My MKZ, which is a ‘17 Reserve 3.0T AWD with most of the bells and whistles, is in for some service and they gave me a ‘17 Continental Reserve 2.7 AWD for a loaner. I was wondering if any other of you Z owners have driven the Conti. I thought it would be interesting to compare and contrast them.
 
Here’s my two cents:
 
The Conti does feel a little bit bigger, but overall i am impressed at how well it handles, not much different than the Z. Some of the controls are a little different, but not bad once you figure them out.
 
The ride is a bit more refined than the Z. The doors feel a bit more solid when closing. The seats are perhaps a bit more comfortable and it has a bit more head and leg room.
 
I love the customizable guages. Wish the Z has those...
 
The panoramic sunroof is a bit smaller, but at least it does not obscure your rearward vision like in the Z.
 
The 2.7 has plenty of power in normal driving. But, when you wind it out it is clearly no match for the lighter Z with the more powerful 3.0. Conti with the 3 liter would be closer, but would cost a lot more.
 
The sticker of the loaner care is $60 grand. My Z stickered at around $57.
 
To summarize, the Continental is a great car to drive for a few days, and I would not blame anyone for getting one. But honestly i think I’d rather have my MKZ. It’s quicker and sportier, less of an ‘old man’s’ car, but still plenty luxurious.

They should stay on when your car is in Drive