Davisjl

I've had mine for 8 months now and no issue with that... and I use the trunk often. Is your car out of warranty? I would think the bumper to bumper would cover that. It's not acting like other power deck lids, which would be a defect. I don't understand why they would need many complaints before the acted... a defect is a defect be it in one car or many cars and the warranty should cover all defects.

As an FYI, it's supposed to turn red when you open it. Cars on the road behind will see red indicating caution/stop. However, it shouldn't stay red once you've shut the door.

The other way is to use the key pad... put your fingers over the 8 and 0 keys for a few seconds and it locks.... just make sure you have your key fob with you or you know your keypad unlock code because if you're key is inside the car it will lock you out ;) It may be poor form, but I have been leaving my key in the center storage box out of sight for the last 3 months and only using the keypad to unlock and lock the car. I don't even have to carry the fob around which is nice at times... but it does add the extra step to of keying in your code to unlock...

You'd have to have the dealer add the "app" for navigation, which I am sure they will charge you the retail/invoice price for... and then figure out how to get Ford to "unlock" the system that is coded to your VIN... ;)

Not sure... but the V3 may require a different SD card installed, so it might not be as simple as a flashing it from the USB. Typically, if it's user installable you can download at syncmyride.com

I'd have to go back and look, but I think my manual stated that it was only for non-powered deck lids. As to why... who knows. I've not found it to be an issue for me...

Yes, but that putting 4k toward the bottom line for the MKz...If you put 4k payment to the lexus... how much does that move up your break even date? My guess is you'd been even in a 1 1/2 years. The issue I would be concerned about is that you'll have a rather LARGE negative equity on the MKz even after you front the 4k toward the down payment. Its going to be a tough pill to swallow if you total that car and you have no car AND the bank demands a 10k payment... The trade value of the car you're looking at buying is 23k... so that's all you can expect to get IF it's in clean shape. You're loan AFTER paying the 4k will be 33k... so you will have AT LEAST 10k negative equity if not more... With the Lexus... you could take that 4k and paydown the loan and get out of it quicker than the 4 years you have left. I would have more confidence in the Lexus long term reliability at 130k than I would the Lincoln at 100k... Lexus has a pretty good track record of reliability. It's your decision... but if it was me, I'd put the 4k toward the Lexus and get that loan under control... all you're doing with the MKz is swapping dollars and staying upside down. It isn't as smart a choice as paying the 4k down to the loan you already have. That may not be the "emotional" choice, but it is the more finically smart choice... and the Lexus is a good car, so it's not like you're in a heap of junk that's breaking down every other day... I think you're thinking too much with your wants/heart... IMO... Again, it's your decision... but since you asked for advice, I'm going to give it to you straight. You'll have to live with the decision you make...

First off...at 25k per year mileage, I'm not sure why you are worried if it will hold value... no car you drive will hold much value to the 125k mark what that many miles per year. Sorry... I'm in the same boat so I do feel your pain. Now, will it hold up... on that I can't say. 150k isn't that big of a stretch for you (6 years) so I would say that it would, but there isn't a lot of data to support that. As for the 2013 you've found... at $ 29,900 seems a bit high for that car. I would have expected $ 24k-26k. I guess the cost may be because it's being sold from a dealer and not a private party... Your value of trade on that car would be in the 23k to 24k range... so you're starting out with adding somewhere in the range of 6-7k negative equity on top of your existing negative equity. On top of that, with 25k miles per year you will be putting on it... the value will drop from there quickly. Personally, I think you're making a bad deal. Even at the $ 19k trade in you have $ 6k in negative equity... it's not time for you to trade, you really shouldn't roll that negative amount into the next car. On top of that, I don't think the value of the car you're buying is to be close to $ 29,900 adding to that negative equality and making it more like 10k or more. I would wager that your financing rate will be higher than you are paying at the current loan AND you'll be extending that out another 5 years, so in the end paying more. If it were me... I'd drive the Lexus until I at least broke even on the trade/loan amount... or more preferable until the car was paid off... The biggest issue being if you total the car, the insurance is only going to pay you for the value of the car and you're on the hook for the remaining 10+k on the loan you'll own... and the bank will want that money in a lump sum payment since the car will be totaled. It would be a bad situation to be in. I am a bit confused as to how you have a 4 year old model car and still owe 25k on it? Did you role negative equity into that loan too?

They Pano was one the features I really wanted. Fully open, it covers the view out of the top of the rear window, but it doesn't block the view of seeing what behind you out of the bottom of the window. you may not see 1/4 mile behind you, but you sure can see 2 or three cars back. Of course you can open/close it to the position you like and it auto closes to 1/2ish at highway speeds to give full view out of the back window. I'm a mirrors type of driver... so I look in the rearview often and although it took a bit to get used to what I was seeing.. I now over-ride the auto highway speed feature and move the pano all to full open even while driving interstate without issue on view.

To be clear... the 2014 has the 2 or 3 blink lane change mode too... you just move the stick down slightly and release prior to the locking position. It returns to center and blinks 2 or 3 times. If you were to press down further, it locks in position until you execute the turn or manually move the stick back to center. This is the way most other cars handle the "lane change" blinker...

Yes, I have that set, but it's not 100%... it works some times and sometimes it doesn't. mIght have to do with iMessage vs SMS. I haven't been worried enough to figure it out.

Seems Ford has a bunch of cars coming back to be fixed. http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/ford-recall-about-850k-cars-airbag-glitch-n212341 Waiting to get a notice...

Are you trying to do it over Bluetooth... if so, it's not supported by the iPhone, although from time to time it does work on mine both with the prior version of iOS and the new iOS. I guess it just hit or miss as to when it decides to work or not. It'll go weeks working fine and then stop for a week and then work again a day or two later...

Unfortunately that's not the case... It will go off at times when there is a car length in front of me... there is not pattern to when/why it does it. I too have imagined a "bug" of some sort crawling across the sensor as it's not something that happens often.

They replaced some module in my car to deal with the ambient light issue with it changing... I thought it was something to do with a internal battery module, but I could be wrong on what it was called... anyway. It's been over a month and not had it change, so I'm hoping it is fixed now. They told me it was a know issue when I asked about it while I was getting a check engine light diagnosed. I too have the front parking sensor go off from time to time... not sure why... not pattern to when it does it.

My guess is they do a phased roll-out to make sure they don't have any issues.

Mine says 3.6.2 is current for Gen2 and no update is available.

The white lights are your DRL's... what are you asking him to "turn-on"? It sounds like they are already on...

never mind

I think Mark95man has done this, but not sure how confident he feels in it. The spare tire is 2.5" smaller than the 18" wheels. If you do go this route, I would recommend only using it as a last resort for short distance and I would make sure to only mount it to the rear wheels even if you have to move the wheels around to accomplish this. My concern would be for the eCVT and how it would deal with the smaller wheel on the front drive... but I'm no expert in this areas so take that info with a grain of salt.

I've never been able to master that left handed shooting... I need to put some time on the range with it, but I get too frustrated. I need to learn to shoot left handed on the shotgun as I'm left eye dominant and it would be soooo much easier to learn lefty, but I can't stand getting below 85 on a sporting clay course... so I just stick with righty and deal with missing 5-10 that I really shouldn't...

My cookie was there.... and it's the first paper that didn't go straight in the trash. I never read it, and I don't pay to receive it...yet they continue to delivery it... but if they are going to start adding cookies to the packaging, I might just have to start reading it.

I didn't get screwed as I knew what the MPG was prior to buying the vehicle and calculated that into my comparison of other cars. The Lincoln won hands down not even close to the other cars I looked at... In fact, in my pre-purchase calculation I used 35 mpg not the re-rated EPA MPG of 38. In reality, so for I'm getting over 40... so far I'm WAY ahead. As for the number of new cars... I buy a new car for myself every 3 years for work as I get over 30,000 miles per year on the car. We don't keep cars past 100k typically. So far for myself, I've bought 8 new cars in my life time plus helped sales guys at my work buy another 16 new cars (running all the data). If you have purchased more than that as you have said... then you should have been a seasoned expert and knew to check other numbers than the EPA MPG... I'd say you were very fortunate to have never experienced a lower MPG than the EPA stated number on the sticker. You've stated that you have purchased 10 new Ford vehicles and NEVER gotten less than the sticker MPG, to me that show case that Ford typically does not tinker with the MPG sticker rating... Knowing that makes me feel even better about Ford. I calculate "True cost of ownership" True cost of ownership includse the insurance cost, fuel cost, expected depreciation, maintenance cost, and expected repair cost to go along with the sale price. Most of which can now be found on Edmunds and KBB, but many years ago this was a real pain in the ass to put together. I have already acknowledge all that previous, maybe you should re-read what has been posted. Again, try to work on your reading comprehension skills... I've NEVER blamed you. I have said OVER AND OVER AND OVER again you have EVERY right to seek whatever compensation you feel makes you whole. I have AGREED that Ford KNEW the MPG was WRONG and used it anyway. Let me make it clear for you AGAIN: 1. Ford used invalid EPA MPG numbers with Knowledge of it being wrong. 2. Ford should pay a penalty for using false numbers 3. You have every right to fight for whatever it is that you feel will make you whole. 4. I have every right to accept the $ 1,050.00 to make me whole. The last few post I have made are to your question on to WHY others do not feel like you... however, you can't seem to comprehend that your view is not what others have. Bottom line for me is that I am an honest and fair person. I had full knowledge of what the actual MPG was PRIOR to purchase, so I have no argument for any damages and I have none. As such, I'm not going to lie and scheme to Ford to try and get more money as that would just be wrong and no better than what Ford did in using bad numbers with knowledge. As a penalty for using bad numbers, I am happy to accept Ford's $ 1,050.00 and move on.

You can't look at one set of numbers from one source and find "definitive" info. It's a process of looking at many sources. When you bought the car did you only look at the sticker price to determine what you'd pay for the car or did you look up what the invoice was... available dealer rebates... what others were paying on Edmunds/KBB/Truecar ? There are many sites that track or test real world numbers... some are: https://www.fueleconomy.gov/mpg/MPG.do?action=browseList http://www.fuelly.com/ (This is the one I find most usable for more current cars) https://www.truedelta.com/ http://www.intellichoice.com/real-mpg.html (This is the most "scientific", but I find it to be one of the more "Optimistic" calculators) http://www.consumerreports.org/ http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2013/10/real-world-mpg-fuel-economy-database.html To go along with all that, you have Edmunds forums/reviews, Kelly Blue Book forums/reviews, and MoterTrend forums/reviews. Most reviews give their experience with the MPG for their test drives. I think when I did my research on the MKz I found Fuelly to have the most data on the Lincoln, but a lot of my data came from reading reviews from MoterTrend/Edmunds/KBB... I also took the car out on a test drive for about 15 or 20 minutes and reset the MPG computer and drove it like I normally would and could see that it was getting 39-41. That's a short test that could have lots of flaws, but it's a good confirmation of the other data I took in which was showing that the large majority were not getting 45 mpg. The fine print of the sticker EPA MPG says that the mileage will vary for many reasons. Now, that doesn't give Ford a pass on posting bad numbers, which they are paying a good will payment (fine) to the owners for doing... however, as a purchaser the EPA sticker MPG is just one data set to look at and compare to other data sets out there. If you go by EPA MPG you will get burned. The fact that you have owned Fords in the past and never got lower than the stated EPA MPG shows that Ford isn't typically screwing with the numbers. I think you'd find you are in the minority to be able to say that... Bottom line, you used the sticker EPA MPG to determine your purchase and Ford misrepresented that number. As I have said before, you have every right to try and seek a compensation that makes you whole. In fact, I would encourage you to do so... however, a large majority of us knew what the real MPG were so it is hard for us to say that we were mislead. Getting an additional $ 1,050.00 without having to make a single phone call or dealership visit to complain is a very good deal for us. Each person will have to determine what is right for them... for me, the $ 1,050.00 is a fair settlement. As I have also said before, if you'd like help in getting some of that data on your next purchase, let me know. I'd be happy to do what I can to help you make a more informed decision.

Had you checked the real world numbers you would have seen that YM(will)V... ;)