bbf2530

Hi LINCJSD and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. Not 100% sure I completely understand your questions, but I'll give it a shot. Concerning the transmission shifting to P when you open the drivers door: If the drivers seat belt is buckled, the vehicle will stay in D or R when you open the drivers door. Nor FORScan mod that I know of. Concerning the interior lighting: There is a button on the overhead console which will disable the interior lights. Turn off the ignition completely and the dash should not be lighting up, unless you leave the ignition on. If you want to park and listen to the sound system, then press the audio system power button to put the vehicle in "Accessory" mode. There can be a delay of 10 seconds or so sometimes, so be patient after pressing the button. There is also "Delayed Accessory Mode", which will leave the sound system and windows operational for 10 minutes at a time. For that, you would turn off the vehicle, then press the Start button twice. Foot off the brake. Otherwise, I am not entirely sure what position you are leaving the ignition in that would have all the dash lights on when you park by the lake...etc. on.Perhaps you can explain in a bit more detail. Congratulations on your new MKZ and good luck!

Hi benne. Oooops...typo! Yes, "fender" interference, as fusionff stated. Thanks fusionff! I went back and corrected the typo. Good luck.

Hi benne and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. You can go to an 18" wheel, if you wish, but a 17" wheel is too small to avoid brake/suspension interference. And whatever you do, you will want to keep as close to the factory/stock overall wheel/tire diameter as possible. This will keep your speedometer/odometer accurate and help avoid any suspension/fender interference. See here: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Lincoln&autoModel=MKZ+3.0T+AWD&autoYear=2019&autoModClar=&package=false Hopefully the link above will work without needing "cookies". If not, just perform another search for wheels for a 2019 MKZ 3.0T AWD. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi djc. A very nice write-up which will certainly help others. Thanks for taking the time, and good luck. ?

Hi Rdavis. Yes, you did not originally mention if your warranties were active/expired or not. Unfortunately, many owners (both new and used) are not aware of their warranty coverage. Therefore, when it is not mentioned by the OP whether the vehicle is still within the 4 year/50, 000 mile New Vehicle Warranty or 6 year/70,000 mile Powertrain warranty, we need to ask. Which was why I also stated, "If not, perhaps one of our tech members will have some insight." In general, an issue like this will usually take a shop and/or diagnostic tools beyond the normal scope of a home mechanic. Otherwise it often results in throwing parts and money at the problem. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Rdavis. Can't help with diagnosis. However, is your 2019 MKZ still within the 4 year/50,000 mile New Vehicle Warranty? If yes, have it repaired under warranty. If not, perhaps one of our tech members will have some insight. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Tipper. Try lubricating the hinges/moving parts with a dry Teflon spray or lithium grease. You may need to loosen or remove some interior trunk panels to access them. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi ruby. Well, it is a simple yet complicated question. ? It can be normal, according to how often and far you drive. Or it could be a sign of a problem. If you do not drive for days at a time and take only very short trips when you do drive, the battery will not have enough drive time to properly/fully and it will eventually dip to a low charge state, which will trigger the "System Off to Save Battery"/Battery Saver Mode in order to save charge as long as possible for starts. Or if you do not drive for 14 days (no matter how long the last trips were or how healthy the battery is), it will also trigger "System Off to Save Battery"/Battery Saver Mode for the same reason. And that is with a healthy battery. A slightly weaker battery, very cold weather and other factors can trigger Battery Saver Mode even quicker. On the other hand, if your driving habits and environment fit none of those contingencies (or similar ones), then it is possible you have a weak/failing battery, or some type of parasitic draw in the electrical system. It is just too difficult to know in a blind Internet diagnosis. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Chris.Assuming the settings are the same on 2017 and 2018 models, try this (if you have not already done so): Go into the SYNC settings. Choose "Display". Set "Mode" to "AUTO" and and turn on "Autodim". If that does not work (and assuming you do not have something covering the ambient light sensor on the dashboard), then there is likely some type of issue which will need deeper diagnosis. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Chris. What setting do you have the SYNC screen illumination set to in the SYNC settings? Try setting it to AUTO, if you haven't already. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Ross. Congratulations on your new MKZ and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forums! Hope you enjoy many safe and happy motoring miles! ?

Hi djcwardog. Congratulations on your new MKZ and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. Hope you have many safe and happy driving miles and good luck.

Hi Aaron. In case you can not find a definitive answer on center jacking points, you can safely use your second option: "The other option I was thinking if I can't find the center spot was to put the floor jack near those jack points but not exactly on them, lift one corner of the car and then put the jack stand in on the exact lift point, and do one corner of the car at a time. For that option I would use the slotted puck to put on the pinch weld line to distribute the weight and hopefully not cause any damage." Use the floor jack with the puck, placed just far enough off the approved jacking points to allow you to place the jack stands in those same approved points. In that case, you may need 3 pucks. One for the floor jack, and one for each jack stand. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Aaron. As far as where a normal jack or jack-stands should go: The Owners Manual shows where to place the jack. There are small triangles molded into the lower body-side cladding. Approximately 1 foot behind the front wheels, and 1 foot in front of the rear wheels. When you locate those triangles, you will find a notch in that pinch weld. That is where the factory jack is placed. That being said, if you have a slit puck type device, you can use the puck on that pinch weld to safely place a jack or jack-stand, since the puck will avoid damage to the weld. I can not accurately advise where to place a floor jack. However, I would definitely advise you remove that under-body shield before placing a jack anywhere in the vicinity, since you will need to ensure what is underneath can support weight. Perhaps one of our tech members will jump in to help with floor jack location. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi aranala and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. How do you know the tires are 'OK"? A visual inspection alone would not necessarily uncover defects such as a broken belt, out of round tire, tire bubble etc. etc. You may want to start by swapping the front tires to the rear and vice-a-versa, to see if the "thumping" moves with it. If yes, then have the tires inspected by a tire shop you trust. Try to find on that can do a "Road Force balance" on the tires/wheels. Not a regular spin balance, but a Road Force Balance. Take those initial steps and get back to us. Good luck.

Hi rubyinla. Yes, you use those same points to attach a battery charger, jumper cables etc. Good luck.

Hi pwcopy. Sorry to hear you are having issues. I'll try to answer your questions as best as I can. 1- There are no inherent engine or transmission mount design issues with the Fusion. That being said, things do fail, so failed engine and/or transmission mounts could be an issue. 2- Could be any or none of those. There is no way to accurately blind Internet diagnose what parts may have failed and/or need replacing. 3- I would definitively recommend using Ford/Motorcraft OEM replacement parts. 4- If you plan on keeping your Fusion, same advice as above. I would recommend staying with the Ford/Motorcraft parts. You are taking your chances with aftermarket/remanufactured parts. The exception to that rule would be if you plan of getting it running and then selling it. Then you maybe able to can save a little money on remanufactured parts. One either recommendation: Have you checked the transmission fluid for proper level and smell/appearance? Have you ever had it flushed/filled since purchasing? If not, before doing anything else, the first step I would advise would be to have the transmission fluid flushed/filled by your Ford Dealer or an independent shop you trust. See if that helps alleviate or even resolve the issue. If you use an independent shop, be sure they use the proper specification transmission fluid, as outlined on the Maintenance/Specifications section of the Owners Manual. No substitutes. I'm sure others will jump in to help if they can. Let us know who you make out and good luck.

Hi "BJC52" and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. Very nice! Enjoy many safe and happy miles, and good luck! ?

Hi gang. Hate to disappoint, but that is the 2023 Lincoln Zephyr, which as of now, will not be available in the U.S. market. I'd buy one tomorrow if it was. Good luck.

Hi bnewt. Well, any late model 19" MKZ or Fusion wheel will fit. There are some others, but I do not have a list and do not know which do/do not. One word of advice: Do not bother with any factory "chrome" wheels. Most, if not all, are not actual chromed metal wheels. They are "chrome clad" wheels, which is a chromed plastic wheel cover glued to the face of an aluminum wheel. They were introduced some years ago in an effort by the auto manufacturers to offer chrome wheels at a lower cost. Unfortunately, the auto manufacturers took a long time to eventually realize that "chrome clad" wheels have a very high propensity to peel. So if you want a chrome look, stick with polished aluminum wheels. Or purchase aftermarket chrome wheels which are chromed metal, not "chrome clad". In fact, you may be better off going aftermarket for new wheels. You an probably find a nice wheel for less money than you may have to pay for 4 factory wheels. You can start by taking a look on The Tire Rack for what they offer: https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/homepage.html Of course, there are many other wheel retailers and wholesalers, but The Tire Rack is a good place to start to see what is available, and what you may like in your price range. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi MKZRENDER and welcome to the Lincoln MKZ Forum. Yes, later model year MKZ's, including the 2017 models on, were equipped with "M14 x 1.5" studs. This information is listed in the Owners Manual in the "Wheels and Tires" section. Hopefully you can exchange that one for the correct hub. Also, on a related note, the lug nut torque specification is 150 lb.ft (204 Nm). That higher spec sometimes takes many people by surprise, even tire and auto shops. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi gang. Unfortunately, although I did not take the time to check everything, some of that information is not correct. For example, the lug/thread/lugnut sizes on the 2017-2020 3.0T MKZ's are "M14 x 1.5". Not "M12". And the stock factory sizes for the late model MKZ's is also wrong. There were no 20" factory wheels available. So I would be wary of using that as a completely reliable source. Good luck.

Hi bnewt. No. If you are thinking of using wheel from another vehicle, even a Lincoln/Ford: In addition to the wheel diameter (19"), you need to be sure the other wheel is a proper offset, width, lug spacing, center-bore etc. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi gang. For those interested, the 2022 SYNC 3 NAV maps update is currently scheduled for release "...on or about September 12th...". https://syncnavigation.com/lincoln/home Good luck.

Hi woodzy. I did not look at the photos, so good catch by fusionff. Also, now that I did look, the one wheel they show an individual image of has some pretty good curb rash. So just as an FYI: Although I am not sure about the pricing on that particular wheel style, the retail price on some of the MKZ wheels approaches $900. So you may want to check with their Parts Department on the replacement pricing and factor that in. EDIT- Also, I just recalled...There was an issue with some MKZ front passenger massage seats failing. The connectors/wiring would overheat and short out after a period of use. So be sure to carefully check them out. When operating properly, they run on a timer for 20 minutes. What will happen is, after a while the connector/wiring will overheat and they will shut off before 20 minutes. You can restart them, but each time you restart, they will tend to operate for a shorter and shorter time period, until they will not work at all. So you need to repeatedly use them to ensure they are operating correctly. Otherwise it would be a very expensive repair after you purchase...if you care about the massage seats. This can be a problem when shopping for a used vehicle, since it could take a minimum of 40 minutes to properly test the seats. Keep us updated and good luck.