drolds1

That's correct, Tom. That link is connected to the sensor itself.

In addition to your duplicate post of today being locked by bbf2530, this one will be locked as well. You just posted this question this past Thursday here and were asked not to create duplicate posts at that time. If you wish to revive a thread, go back to said thread and say something like "bump" or just ask if anyone can please help. Please comply with the forum rules if you wish to continue here.

Thanks for searching but in my case, I hadn't set a destination and despite the "No GPS" message, I was exactly where the car icon showed my location to be. When I did set a destination, it worked perfectly.

I have a subscription to AllDataDIY, which in turn gets these illustrations from the factory service manual. I've had these subscriptions for many years. They were low cost and not the greatest. This year, they've raised prices, but the improvements are night and day and after several years, they've finally made 2016-2020 MYs available. Not be confused with AllData for professionals, used by many independent shops.

It should pop right out with a trim removal tool by prying at the 4 clips, as illustrated below:

You've already posted this question in the Hybrid section. Please don't create duplicate threads. One post per topic, please. Your question won't be answered any faster, and it causes confusion on the part of any potential respondents. This thread is now closed.

Without knowing the model year of your MKZ, the general answer is that the camera is located (obviously) behind the lens and the wiring runs through the trunk lid. It's exposed by removing the trim on the underside of the deck lid.

No. I haven't taken it in, since it was gone the next day and hasn't recurred. Plus, the warning was apparently a false alarm since the map/nav worked perfectly. If that hadn't been the case, I would have made a service appointment. Hopefully, that won't happen.

Hi, austin-tatious and welcome to the MKZ forum. You post caught my eye (no pun intended) because I have noticed this in all 3 of my 2nd-gen MKZs. It's more noticeable right after cleaning the glass. It's also more pronounced while wearing sunglasses, which leads me to believe that the condition is being exacerbated by your window tints. My windows aren't tinted. I used to have a reasonable tint put on all my cars until my state cracked down on anything beyond 30%. Part of the annual state safety inspection here includes measurement using a light meter, and you cannot pass if the tints are darker than the law allows. Not to mention that I'm not getting any younger and night vision diminishes with age. OK. This wasn't supposed to turn into a window tinting symposium, so I'll drop it here. Suffice it to say that I have noticed what you've described in my own 3 MKZs. Here is a quick photo that I took this afternoon, and you can see a slight reflection of the outer IP AC vent. Depending on conditions, it can be considerably more prominent than shown here. I don't know what you could do to mitigate this other than what you've done so far.

Crazy, right? At least if there was really no GPS when it said so, but evrerything was working.

This past Saturday evening, as I was driving in a completely open area, the "No GPS" message and icon appeared on the screen, yet the map was showing the correct area and movement, so I tried programming a destination. That worked perfectly as well. After I restarted at my destination, there was no message but after driving for a minute, it reappeared. Everything was still working properly. Yesterday, the message was permanently gone. I checked GPS.gov and there were no reported outages or glitches for Saturday. Weird, just weird.?

Welcome to the MKZ forum. Your question is being moved to an appropriate section of the forum. The Forum Help & Suggestions section is intended for questions and comments about the operation of the site itself. Questions and comments about the MKZ should be posted in the most appropriate sub-forum. In this case, that would the Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Owners section.

Yes, As I pointed out, there are no air springs or shocks. While technically there are ride height sensors, the car itself has no self-leveling capability, which was Zondedo's original question. They're used in conjunction with the CCD. Different story, however, for the Aviator with Lincoln Air Glide suspension. I just hope it's more reliable than it was on the Mark 7 and TC.

Well, whaddaya know? It looks like I spoke too soon. Further research show that there are front and rear height sensors. They have to be calibrated with the Ford scan tool, though. My duh for answering too quickly. My apolgies. Still no air shocks or compressor, however. Rear Suspension Height Sensor Removal NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to: Jacking and Lifting - Overview (100-02 Jacking and Lifting, Description and Operation) . NOTE: RH height sensor assembly shown, LH similar. Disconnect the rear suspension height sensor electrical connector. Remove the rear suspension height sensor arm bracket-to-lower arm bolt. Torque : 177 lb.in (20 Nm) Remove the rear suspension height sensor bracket bolt and remove the sensor. Torque : 177 lb.in (20 Nm) Installation NOTE: The RH and LH height sensor assemblies cannot be used on opposite sides of the vehicle. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Calibrate the suspension height sensor. Connect the scan tool and carry out the Ride Height Calibration routine. Follow the scan tool directions.

The MKZ doesn't have auto leveling. It has continuously controlled damping (CCD) only. There are no air springs or shocks, as on the old Mark 7 & 8 series and Town Cars. Some new Lincoln SUVs do have it.

bbf2530 has provided a good overview for you to follow. It's difficult to put a value on this car in light of the damage and mileage. You also haven't provided details in the way of options, e.g. moonroof, upgraded audio, navigation, AWD, etc. According to NADA, at this mileage and in rough condition, trade-in value is $1300. They don't give a value for rough retail. Again options are unknown, so that couldn't be figured into the price. If you buy the car, are you planning to repair the accident damage? If so, the cost of the collision repair at a body shop could exceed the value of the car. Also, is that rust over the right rear wheel or a reflection of something? Same for the left rear quarter. Is that a reflection or scrapes/dents?

Sorry it didn't work. Silly question: It's probably too late now, but did you ever bring this up with your service manager?

Do you have cooled seats? If so, are the seat covers you're planning to use made of solid material which could block airflow? WARNING: Turn the ignition OFF and wait one minute to deplete the backup power supply. Ignition must remain OFF until repair is complete. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury or death in the event of an accidental deployment. Turn the ignition OFF and wait at least one minute. Position the seat forward to access the seat rear bolts. Remove the bolt. Remove the bolt. WARNING: Turn the ignition OFF and wait one minute to deplete the backup power supply. Ignition must remain OFF until repair is complete. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury or death in the event of an accidental deployment. Turn the ignition OFF and wait at least one minute. Position the seat forward to access the seat rear bolts. Remove the bolt. Remove the bolt. Move the front seat to the full rearward position. Open In New TabZoom/Print If a seat side airbag SRS fault is present, depower the SRS . Refer to: Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Depowering and Repowering (501-20B Supplemental Restraint System, General Procedures) . Move the front seat to the full rearward position. Open In N If a seat side airbag SRS fault is present, depower the SRS . Refer to: Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Depowering and Repowering (501-20B Supplemental Restraint System, Remove the front seat bolt caps. Remove the bolts. Disconnect the wire harness electrical connector. If equipped. Disconnect the heated seat electrical connector and remove the front seat. ++

The Zephyr concept has been seen around Dearborn. There appears to be some kind of exhaust system seen in the photos, so unless that's a decoy, it doesn't seem to be a BEV. Still probably destined for China only, but I wouldn't be unhappy to find out otherwise. https://fordauthority.com/2021/09/lincoln-zephyr-sedan-spied-driving-around-dearborn/

I see only one in this video.

The Mach-E has actually prompted me to consider a BEV for my next car. There might even be a Lincoln version of it in the future.

No, there's no drain plug on these particular PTUs. You also posted this question in another forum. Please don't create duplicate posts. It confuses those who may wish to respond. The other post has been deleted.

There's no need to apologize. We all miss stuff. Odd story about the one sofa. Go figure. I once called Keurig about a coffee maker that died just past the warranty. The rep said you should only ever use bottled water in their machines. I replied that only bottled water had ever used in it. Umm, uh, duh.....

There's already a thread dealing with this topic here. You can follow the suggestions therein. It's always a good idea to search the archives before posting so that we don't end up with multiple threads for the same topic. WRT Leather Master dye transfer cleaner, as you mentioned, it's sold on the Autogeek website as well as other auto detailing product sites. These sellers would not carry the product if it harmed automotive leather. In fact, when I got my first MKZ with Bridge of Weir leather in 2010, Lincoln sent me a complimentary set of Leather Master products and recommended them for use on Lincoln's Bridge of Weir leather seats.