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OverworkedITguy

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  1. Have a feeling that is the best thing to do. I will pack what I have and get some opinions and pros and cons. I know labor charges will be premium and what they bundle may be better than the previous place. The quote for that was $3600 with cash discount. Quote is attached. Gear I have and brought and then had to utilize a different Line Out Converter Sound dampening material - These door panels have so many clips, I will easily break them. 2 pairs of Focal PS 165v1 Expert 6.5 Component sets (tweeters, crossover, woofer) Morel MPS 5.950 5 Channel amp AudioControl LCQ1 - 6 Channel line output controller Kicker TL7T122 - Shallow mount L7 which would fit nicely in the trunk. Below was not utilizing the AudioControl LCQ1 and having to purchase a JL Twerk (or TWk) and then a JL Tweaker DSP. They were not familiar with AudioControl and the Hertz DSP. -
  2. I had a quote previous with the gear that I had purchased, heck now it was almost two years ago. Right after purchase of the gear, received a quote for install, well it was a bit of a shocker but I was planning on going through since what I had lined out was going to take some work. Though not long after had some medical stuff come up and put it all on hold. Then after a long back and forth debate plus few surgeries later, I am essentially going to use the money in a different area but just really want to add a small replacement boost to get just a bit more volume/dB's off the current system. Or I am going Def since max dB is 114. In one forum they mentioned about the JL component 6.5's that can run between like 10-60w on RMS. If that would work I will throw that in the check list Since evidently the amp in my car is powering possibly just the 2x 6x9 subs in the deck, would these Mustang GT 6.5 speakers that show 25w 4 ohm be a upgrade to what I have which are the ones with the super small magnet with the 25w 4 ohm rating. Mustang GT 6.5's show the 25W 4ohm on the label Model: GR3T-18808-VB DROFA 25w 4ohmn Also attached 6.5's out of a Lincoln Nautilus and wasn't sure if that was the relabeled version of the Mustang GT or totally different and require more power. They did not have any wattage rating and cant seem to find specs. Pictured also below which is in a set of 4 + the sub which that wont use but the 4x 6.5s if are 25w and could be an upgrade that would be cheaper than the JLs. Model and label numbers of those are: FA1T-18808-FA 8942007501A AAU8 (hard to see not sure if it was a B) then it has 20420- and can't make out the rest. If any of those would work any help is appreciated.
  3. I originally ordered a slew of parts last year with speakers to match what I was going for and then that $3700 in parts install price was like a WAM to the face. Then of course cataracts came to the surface and what funds I had for that blew away for two surgeries. Needless to say I will be selling off those components. I am trying to sort out which speaker that has the 11 speaker package has wattage for which ones. I do know the 2x 6x9s in the back are I believe 25 or 28w speakers. They are hard as hell to get into so those will not be changed. The front dash with a 3.5" speaker, I ordered just a Infinity Reference speaker since it was low wattage and matched the ohms. Not sure what the wattage was on the factory one. Front 6.5 components, that is where I am seeing online some are 60w RMS and some are different and its like okay I really am puzzled. The rear door speakers I am not sure what that wattage is since not sure if its 6.5 component or 5.25 component are installed. Just trying to see if anyone knows what the factory wattage of the lower trim speakers were if anyone upgraded or just oem replaced any. The car is great. I just should have waited just a bit longer for finding one with the Revel sound system. Converting that would be a nightmare. If anyone knows of a factory drop in upgrade for the factory amp that is just a bit more powerful (I mean 5-10w more with still the same DSP integration). Like drop in connect and go. Tried cross referencing the amp and just comes up with the same one but a massive amount of different models for the same power. Tried searching on here found the factory amp and all of the sizes of speakers but then it went into upgrading of amps and stuff and then also the ohms for not deviating away from what ohm the factory system is designed for. Thanks.
  4. When I ordered my amp, sub and LOC device I actually purchased Crutchfield's guide on the removal process. I literally can not find it anywhere in the house. I have scoured the web and forums and even this one and ran across a few pictures but was only able to find information on a older 2011 MKZ for the rear deck removal. If anyone has any information or pictures of which stuff to take out where that would be greatly appreciated. I am also trying to move the carpet back that is under the 6x9's to do some speaker testing and seems that is tucked around in so many stupid areas. The trunk section has a Velcro spots at the hatch but I am not going to just go tugging to find out and break stuff. Any help is appreciated. I may end up purchasing the guide again if I can not find it. Doubt Crutchfield will give another copy digitally for a lost copy purchased but I may ask and provide the purchase order and see. Example of the rear deck panel I am referring to is below. If there is another name for it that is searchable with information, that would be also helpful.
  5. Thanks. I was wanting a vehicle just to use on the weekend only since I rarely drive during the week. I have another vehicle so its not a matter of just having to have a vehicle. It was just casual use only. I wanted a muscle car but inflation prices were through the roof. Then if you found anything in range it was absolute poop. I regretted selling my 2005 GTO that was absolutely race car obnoxious but it absolutely turned heads. It was a site to see. Though it was left leg day every day and it was so much drone while driving you could barely hear holding the phone and speaker phone was absolutely impossible. Plus having to shift yeah save the grief. *Disclaimer hands free zones are only in school zones in my state. Yet I prefer to use handsfree. Now with this car the power is not violent but just super linear which I absolutely love just violent aggressive accelerations (or at least makes it feel that way). The GTO if launched hard would just wheelspin with traction control which it was a bit nuts. Though this car though it is FWD ,it has some wheel hop which I may shove a stickier wider tire setup if I replace the current rims and 300 tread wear tiires, and it should help a bit. Only in comfort mode do you feel the suspension flex and downshift and goes. Though in sport its sooooooo damn smooth and you look down and go Oh shit! Eventually possibly will upgrade the rear anti roll bar to stiffen the rear end since it can get a bit squirmy on some spirited driving in corners but for just overall use its completely fine. This MKZ's with the 3.0 either FWD or AWD are literally the best sleepers out there for the money and smooth as butter to drive. The true cloud on wheels.
  6. Hello folks My name is Ross and from Louisiana. I am not exactly a newish owner of it but this was purchased 10 months ago when I was on the hunt for a bit of a sleeper and also luxury ride. After passing up on a best friends 2015 Lincoln MKC Reserve with 64k miles all the options you could get plus dealer records (and knew for a fact he went to the dealer for every single thing and even nit pick thing) he offered to sell me the car for literally the trade in. Yet my brain was wrapped around wanting more power. Purchased a Suburban due to 2nd impulse purchase and well that was a complete money pit and spent damn near the same amount as what would have been for the MKC. Forward over to November 2021 and ran across a 2017 Lincoln MKZ 3.0T Select with 64k miles. It is the FWD model (which wanted the AWD) but this was THE BEST at the time priced vehicle and actually was directly purchased and sold previously from the same dealership to the previous owner. I did not test drive the vehicle. I rode on one years ago and knew they were fantastic. Performance on paper with the 3.0TT was in the running for me wanting to have some pedal to spread the wings but only in open rural areas where its just me and trees and not saying it in. Just the occasional Italian tune up here and there. The Pros: Gas Mileage: With 93 it is around 25-26 MPG since I do mostly highway. Currently running (from Conoco Phillips that fills Motorcraft oil ) Kendall GT1 - MAX Synthetic 5w30 and did notice increase in some MPG over the Motorcraft one. Was give or take lets say a 1.5 MPG improvement but that was not the reason for the switch. More of the anti wear additive of the titanium in the Kendall. (If it was not already mentioned there is a Youtube video of the comparison between Motorcraft Full Synthetic and Kendall GT1 MAX. Same oil with few specs difference and Kendall is within spec and adds the titanium additive and costs less.) With 89 currently is hovering around 28.5. The highest was on a trip to Atlanta which is around 600 miles and the MPG was 28.9 MPG which I was shocked Comfort: Rides like a cloud in comfort mode. When you want sporty coil over feel then hit the sport mode and take a turn. Performance: 3.0TT - Since it is the FWD version as of right now 350 HP at the crank but it gets up there pretty quick. With 2.5 gal E85 + 93 = Literally peppy acceleration and can feel it from the seat it pulls and is snappy. It was only a E15 blend which read you can run upwards of 20 or 25% on the stock fuel pump. Since did not have a tune yet, I was shocked the ECU autosensed the octane dropped some MPG and gained a bit of pep. Downside... mileage did drop down to around 22 MPG. Not a Con when it adds some zoom zoom. Maneuvering: So smooth and easy to park. Turning circle is great. Braking: For the factory brakes and pads they bite and not exactly scrape your face to the steering wheel level but will definitely spill drinks real fast if not secured... or top heavy (face palm 2nd day my driving my passenger dumped unsweet tea everywhere.) The Cons well lets phrase it as my to do list to improve on: Audio is crisp and clear which is great for most people but I do love a bit of ear piercing volume, bass since tend to jam out to metal one moment then switch over to XM Channel 52 and jam out to Armin Van Burren and feel like I am in a club in Europe. It has the 11 speaker system and seems a bit of a nightmare for upgrading components due to having DSP integration but for the factory amp... wish there as a drop in factory upgrade but appears that I am unable to find but will post in another thread about the audio stuff. Plastic oil pan: Had to have this replaced under manufactures warranty right after I purchased it due to a seep. Not a fan of plastic oil pans since they tend to house a important fluid and there is no skid plate to further protect. Cloth air deflection thingies (cant think of the term) do not exactly protect as much as a skid plate would. Overall its a shame they are not continuing this vehicle here but I will say this has been one of the best purchases for a vehicle ever. The amount of other luxury items tucked into the car is pretty amazing. Oh and November 2021 during lets say not ideal buying times... Dealer asked $25k and took $21k which they were not price gouging then actually were honest. They even drove 60 miles to my home the next day to do all of the paperwork in the front yard while on my lunch break from work. That is my intro here. Have a great day. Attached is the most recent pic. Just has tint and black lug nuts since the factory ones had to be replaced and changed them into a solid acorn lug nut. .
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