austin-tatious

By "connect" do y'all mean "pair"?

Well, decided to quit searching for an online answer on Friday. Tony in the service dept provided the answer! He said the setting is in memory somewhere and when the battery is completely discharged for a while the setting may be lost. So do this: 1. use the up/down switch to move the window all the way down. 2. hold the switch in the up position until it stops at the top but do not let it go. 3. continue to hold the switch in the up position for 10 seconds and release. 4. one-touch up operation should be working now. He added that the 10 second wait with the switch held up seems to have a small tolerance. Sometimes it did not work when counting to 10 in his head and sometimes he had to repeat the procedure a second or third time to get it to stick. So I used my stop watch to time it and it worked first try. I will see if it fails again or not like some poster said.

Having the same problem with my 2017 black label 3.0 liter twin turbo. Battery went totally dead while out of town and had to jump start 4 times before getting th car to the dealer who put in a new battery. Got the car back yesterday. All ok except the one-touch up on the driver's window no longer works. All 3 other windows work fine. Driver's window only does not do one-touch up but one-touch down does work. Have to hold the switch in the up position to go all the way up Posts above suggest this may not be permanently fixable . And where can I find the re-programing fix hermans talks about above. Thanks!

It's here. NA 2 21. Maybe the new streets (since 2016) in my neighborhood will finally be in it.

Not good news. Given the complexity of the repair, I wouldn't be surprised if keeps happening.

Well, I did not consider that. I can't rule it out, but the "light show" started when the car started moving into the car wash before a drop of water was on it. Thanks for your idea!

Last October the dealer found an oil pan leak, covered under TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 2.7L/3.0L EcoBoost - Oil Pan Leaking 19-233204 November 2019. "TSB says time to service for the 2017 MKZ is 3.4 hours which does not include one overnight crankcase drain and one overnight silicone cure. Only applies to 2015-17 ford and Lincoln cars and SUVs. When you read the steps in the TSB it looks like it's really easy to make a mistake resulting in a subsequent oil leak." Well, it's happened again, just as I feared. A month ago I started smelling burned oil sometimes after short trips. So I took it in today. Just received a call from the service girl who said the car has an oil pan leak, again. ? This time there will be no charge, which I'm glad to hear, but I'm still losing the use of the car for about 3-4 days while it get's fixed. Has anyone else had this happen? Thanks.

Here's the result of the above test (put it in neutral on a slope and let it roll downhill, then put it in "stay in neutral" where the 'N' flashes and let it roll downhill). No light show in either mode. Maybe it has something to do with the car wash track and how it pushes the car through the wash.

Well, after thanksgiving, while going down a long hill in CA in cruise control and sport mode, the light came on again. This time I went to one of the auto parts stores which loaned me their code reader which reported the same code, P04F0:00. When we got back home took the car to the dealer who diagnosed a different problem for the same code. This time a hose in the EVAP system (9G271) had come off, so they replaced the hose (which took a week to get in stock) and I now have the car back. How about that?

Oh, BTW. To read the code(s) myself I went to Auto Zone and borrowed their ODBII reader. Subsequently I bought my self an OBDII reader. When I plugged it in with the car in Key On Engine Off, got another light show. Did show the same DTC.

Thanks. I hope the trip through the car wash in plain neutral (if that's what actually caused the light show) did no harm other than upset the computer(s). I'll try your idea when the car comes back from the dealer. Car's in the shop right now to be repaired for DTC code P04F0 a SECOND time. I've got a call into the service mgr to try to find out why it happened again and if they see this DTC very often.

Two more things: First, I put the car in stay in neutral in the driveway which as a little slope, verified by flashing N on the gear select stack. Let it coast down the slope about 15 ft. No alerts. Second, could I have failed to get it in to stay in neutral and it was just in neutral? I don't remember if I saw the flashing N or not when in the car wash.

Took our new to us 2017 black label 3.0 T to the car wash for the first time (maybe the last). Made sure rain sensing was turned off, put it in "Stay in Neutral" as it started through. All of a sudden, the dreaded wrench symbol appeared and power train issue notifications started popping up. The one I remember most was the all wheel drive not working alert. What is that? I did not touch anything since we're being passively moved through the wash. When the car was all clear of the car wash track I put it in drive and off we go. The alerts stopped but I think the wrench symbol stayed for a bit. I don't remember if I turned the car off and then restarted when I got to a place to safely stop. However, the wrench symbol is gone now. What should I make of this? Thanks!

Interesting that the 2017 owner's manual says change the transmission fluid at 150K miles under normal driving conditions, BUT every other driving condition (such as stop-go, lot's of idling, dusty, etc.) do it every 30K miles.

CARR142 on the other lincoln forum lincolnforums.com mkz subsection posted this in response to my query on this issue: The comments under this vid on youtube suggest it's only for the 17 ecoboost f150. How many 17 mkz owners have had an oil leak like the one I had?

Dealer fixed it under the CPO extended warranty for $100 deductible. They also fixed an oil pan leak they found under TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 2.7L/3.0L EcoBoost - Oil Pan Leaking 19-233204 November 2019. TSB says time to service for the 2017 MKZ is 3.4 hours which does not include one overnight crankcase drain and one overnight silicone cure. Only applies to 2015-17 ford and lincoln cars and SUVs. When you read the steps in the TSB it looks like it's really easy to make a mistake resulting in a subsequent oil leak. Contains 6 warning statements like this: "NOTE: Do not use Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep Wipes on the replacement oil pan. Using Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep Wipes on the oil pan will contaminate the treated oil pan sealing surface causing reduced RTV adhesion and a potential oil leak." Service advisor told me that fixing the purge valve required removing the oil pan anyway. And removing the oil pan requires evacuating and removing the A/C compressor plus removing the left converter. Amazing.

Thank you very much! Great useful info. Decision made. Going to drop the car off and pick it up in a couple of days. As far as the loaner, this dealer is short of cars to loan. Nearest reservation available is several weeks. You should see their lot. New car lot is virtually empty and used car lot has maybe 30 used cars. You have a shop manual I presume? Thanks again!

The light came on and diagnostic code on my 2017 MKZ with the 3.0 TT engine is P04F0:00. Interpretation of this code is "Evap system high load purge line A performance". I do not find this discussed on the forums. Has anyone had this code? Does anyone know how many shop hours it takes to fix it? I'd like to know the time required so I know if I'll have to leave it with the dealer overnight or not.

It's been 3 weeks since taking off the window tint. Like jimflutes said, we find we can just look through the reflection now. It's still there all the time, but even in the conditions that produce the most intense reflection you can easily ignore it. As far as other vehicles having this issue? I think it depends on two things. First the slope of the dash. Most have a dash that is close to vertical and there is an overhang like our instrument clusters have. This will reduce the incidence of sunlight shining directly on the dash where it can be reflected by the side windows. The 17-20 MKZ dash is seriously sloped and makes me feel like there is a lot more room and better visibility in front. But that same slope allows sunlight to easily shine on it full force so we can end up with a strong reflection. Second the texture and reflectivity of the dash. Consider a flat black rough textured dash versus a glossy dash with chrome accents. There you go.

I can't find how to edit my posts. Can they be edited? Or is the inability to edit intentional as deleting posts is? Even though I review the text etc. before posting, I still, due to fumble fingers or having written a confusing phrase, find it necessary to edit after posting. Appreciate your reply. Whoa! My mistake. ? It's the lincolnownersgroup mkz sub forum that I can't find how to edit.

covercraft.com search for 2017 lincoln mkz is recommended by the lincoln dealer accessories dept.

Thanks for the ideas. I tried something like that (blackened masking tape), and it helps (see initial post above). The idea of spraying the trim with a flat or satin clear finish would be an easier solution than vinyl blackout. But the vinyl blackout is removable whereas a sprayed on clear finish would be more difficult to take off if it doesn't do the job. Besides, the fake chrome on the trim has a satin finish as it sits right now. We're going to live with it for a while and I hope find we don't need to do anything else now that the tint is gone.

We decided to remove all the tint. The night time safety issue is gone! AND the dash reflections in the windows on top of the side mirrors is much improved. So much so that we might leave everything alone. Live with it for awhile and decide later where to black out the vent covers. Here's after pictures. These pics show the worst example of reflections. Other times of day and cloud cover are much less visible.

So, I took the car to the Lincoln dealer to get an additional key FOB programmed. While waiting for the FOB, the parts guy looked up trim pieces for me. Cost? About $400 each. Besides that, he said he thinks all the simulated wood, carbon fiber, etc. are glossy. Cost and probable finish rule that out for me. Besides, now that I know where the secret clips are on the vent, doing a vinyl blackout wrap is much more likely.

Mahvelus, absolutely mahvelus. This bit of info (where the clips are with such a beautiful illustration) is most helpful. Do you mind sharing the source for this illustration?