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Only Ford vehicles that are still under the original 4 years warranty (extended warranties do not apply) can get labor covered. All 2018 and late 2017 made Lincoln vehicles had already moved to 4G. There are lots of Ford vehicles that used 3G that are still under the 4 year warranty though. I contacted Lincoln to find this information. I wanted to upgrade to a 4G modem anyway as it offers the tire pressure monitors that give the exact PSI and the app just all around works better.

I've been keeping up with it for a while now. It was repaired but they broke the feature again after the 3.18 version of the app. I found the apk online and uninstalled the newer broken version and install the 3.18 apk which everything works. I just spoke with the concierge and they said that they have problems with the 3G vehicles which the 2017 has while the 2018 and newer has 4g modems. I may look into if upgrading the modem is an option. I know that it wouldn't be plug and play but with FORScan, lots of things are possible. I'm sure that this is the reason why I don't have tire pressures on the phone but just the word monitoring which means that they are within range.

I purchased my 2017 Reserve but it came with every option but massaging chair, driver package and tech package. All the others like Pano, v6 AWD, auto parking and others are there along with pointless things here in Southern California like the Climate package. . I did miss a few things that I wanted like the Technology package, I did lots of research and have already upgraded the HID head lights to LED but every part on this car needs lots of programming. I've already researched and purchased the parts needed to add HD radio to my car. Since the Ultima systems would require too much parts the only reasonable option would be to get the upgraded audio from the Fusion. All I need was a rear center speaker, an ACM from a 2017-2020 MKZ, A Sony amplifier (preferably with cut harnesses), lots of wires and harness and a way to program the ACM and APIM yourself. I'm sure that I forgot to list everything but I am just too damn lazy to get to it. I even got many harness to that very minimal cuts will have to be done to the car's existing wires. I plan on installing it along with my 2 channel dashcam and a LiFePO4 backup battery to record when the car off and not drain my battery or confuse the car's Battery Management System. I really with I wasn't so lazy.

I will have to take it to the dealership but don't know if the issue was correct on the BCM. The curtesy lights turns off after your car is armed if I don't manually turn on the lights. If I manually turn on the lights and do any action which will cause the curtesy lights to activate, there is no way to disable the lights after the car is armed. In other words, once the curtesy lights is on, the button no longer functions unless I close the door and turn on the ignition to disable the courtesy light timer. I then can hit the switch to turn it off. I should be able to hit the light on/off button once to disable manual mode. I understand that the light will still be on but after arming my vehicle, or sitting my programed time, the light should turn off.

I have an odd issue with my 2017 MKZ. If I turn on my interior lights with the car not running and open the door, it seems that the ONLY way to turn them off is to get in the car, close the doors, turn on the ignition then hit the button to turn them off. I haven't tried sitting in the car and waiting the extended time but that's an odd issue. Is this an issue for anyone else? I wonder if I should flash my BCM to an updated calibration as I'm sure that this has been remedied in newer models. Maybe there is an off button like the older MKZ vehicles that I can't find.

If anyone wants the STL, I can upload it on Thingiverse ..

I made and 3D printed a wheel cap to test how it looks as one of mine went missing. I never liked the "PETROL" caps but can't find wheel caps that would fit. They are 61.81mm so I assume that they are considered 62mm. It's made of black PETG and the Logo is white PETG that's glued into the recess. I initially planned on painting them aluminum color but will just clear coat them as they are.

She said that she believed that it is covered by powertrain warranty. I have an extended warranty so I'm good. I got an email from Lincoln, it seems that the issue may not be repaired in the next update. The fact that they are aware and working on it is good enough for me. I'll paste it. Good Morning. I'm following up regarding the missing oil life concern within the Lincoln Way application. The development team is aware of the issue, they were able to replicate the concern. They are currently working on a code fix for the Lincoln way application to restore the oil life functionality. The functionality should be restored in one of the upcoming Lincoln Way application updates. The next update will be in the first quarter of February, but I'm unsure if the code fix will make it into that release. Please respond directly to this email should you have further questions. Please use this case as reference: CAS-88888888-X8X8X8 This case was opened on 1/17/2021

It's a bit different as the oil life worked prior to their forced downgrade. Now it only works on 2017 models with iPhones. The exact tire pressure readings were never working on the 2017. I called them again as you recommended. They went ahead and escalated the issue. I also emailed them a screenshot of the issue. The latest Android version is 3.15 and according to the Concierge, they are aware of the issue of the missing oil monitor and the infinite spinning start button that never reports that your vehicle has started. An updated version 3.16 should be released February 5th or 6th, I forget the exact date I was told. She also said that my modem's firmware is 3.9 and the updated f/w is 4.5 so they recommend that I get it updated at the dealership.

I've come to the conclusion that all 2017 Lincolns on Android no longer have oil life readings. I'm guessing all vehicles based on everyone on a facebook group that had a 17 MKZ or Conti and using Android phone had no oil life. I don't know if the 2018 vehicles that have the reading here are using iPhones as they work from all I asked.

I tried the help (former concierge) button on the app and tried the chat option. While I got ahold of someone, there wasn't a send button so one way chatting isn't an option, I then used the call option and during diagnostic, they tried using my login info and the oil function wasn't on their device either. They said that the problem now appears to be on their end and I'll get an email or call from tech within 48 hours. I also let them know about the missing send issue. Don't know if it is an Android or Galaxy s10e issue.

My car is 100% in battery saver mode ?. Do you think that is the cause? The car starts great but the BMS hates it and it goes in power save mode the second turn it off. My APIM also occasionally resets my ambient light to off and I get the harsh sounds from the dashboard. I definitely need a new battery but haven't gotten one yet.

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately, I tried refreshing, force closing, restarting and even clearing the app data from the phone but nothing seemed to help.

I just noticed that my Oil Life reading is gone on my Lincoln way app on Android. I have a 2017 MKZ. Recent changes was that the App was updated a few weeks ago and I also got an oil change from the dealer ship a few weeks ago too. I'm not sure which action got rid of it. Do I need to do something in my car? Fuel level, location and tire "monitoring" are all normal. EDIT: I've come to the conclusion that all 2017 Lincolns on Android no longer have oil life readings. I'm guessing all vehicles based on everyone on a facebook group that had a 17 MKZ or Conti and using Android phone had no oil life. I don't know if the 2018 vehicles that have the reading here are using iPhones as they work from all I asked.

That is very interesting, mine functioned well and even remote started the vehicle from very far away while it displayed low battery for about a week. I ended up ordering a battery from Amazon as I couldn't find that tank of a battery locally.

I used Cyanlabs and installed Sync 3.4. I definitely can't go back to 3.0. I wonder what this update consist of though.

Funny is that Explorer shuts quiet. It only needs to shut like it does if they didn't have that feature at the end. If I manually shut it, I can barely put it down and it pulls itself close.

The feature I hate the most about my 17 MKZ 3.0 AWD is the transmission. It's so slow to react sometimes. You hit the paddle shifters and it takes more than a full second to change. This is a COMPLETELY worthless feature due to that. Another thing that is very silly is how the automatic trunk slams shut. This isn't necessary at all as the trunk have soft close (it mechanically closes it the last 1/2 inch slowly and quietly).

They appear to be the China Lincoln MKZ tail lights. Was able to find only the rear left light doing some quick searching. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2015-oem-lincoln-mkz-tail-light-led-left-side-df5313405hb/332198734323?fits=Model%3AMKZ|Make%3ALincoln&hash=item4d589669f3:g:9fQAAOSwXVNbWz2o

From my experience, finding a honest mechanic is far more difficult than overheating a car.... I'd even guess that it was driven with coolant in the oil for quite a while. From reading your first post, my internet opinion is that entire engine is trash.

Yes, it will work. Might be an old post but still valid information for those who are searching like I was. I looked over the wiring diagram and the wiring is exactly the same on the MKZ. Unlike the Continental, The DRL, sequential on/off and turn signal are the same. Mine worked flawlessly with a direct swap but I opted to properly configure the BCM and Headlight Control Module (HCM) to that of a OEM LED equipped car. USED Diff checker and there were 4 entries in the BCM that related to headlights and two in he HCM that was different. Changed them and it still ran the same.

Yesterday, I received my LED headlights for my MKZ. I've been trying to get info about it but none exist. I've already checked my wiring diagram which covers both the 2017 Fusion & MKZ but it only lists Halogen, Ford China, Ford NA LED and Lincoln LED. No mention of Xenon at all but it seems that the Lincoln LED shares the exact same wiring as the HID. I contacted one company but they are saying that that I need to purchase modified headlights but I don't buy it, the other company that sells the harness do not replay. I went on ebay and found the VIN of a car that has OEM LED, then found the AsBuilt for that VIN. I've already found the BCM settings that differ from mine. Using the F150 AsBuilt guide online and diffchecker.com I spotted only a few difference between my BCM and the Black Label I got the VIN from. Besides Vin differences and Placard for tire pressure the others are as followed. (My HID car) -----> (ebay LED car) last two digits are checksum and FORScan will automatically correct them. 726-26-02 xxxx xxx1 xx57 -----> xxxx xxx0 xx56 Frequency Select Cfg: 0=Type 0 (LED), 1=Type 1 (Halogen), 2=Type 2, 3=Type 3 726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x158 -----> xxxx xxxx x057 Vrms Target Sel Cfg: 0=Type 0, 1=Type 1, 2=Type 2, 3=Type 3 726-46-01 xxx1 xxxx xx77 -----> xxx0 xxxx xx76 High Beam Open DTC Cfg: 0=unused, 1=used 726-46-02 x0xx xxxx xx76 -----> x1xx xxxx xx77 Low Beam Open DTC Cfg: 0=unused, 1=used change from 0 to 1 I haven't programmed anything yet but a quick test shows that it is working. High beams, DRL and signal all work. I spot a very light flicker but I'm certain that the correct AsBuilt settings will remedy it.

Same on my 2017 but most likely making changes in FORScan causes this. I believe an APIM reset or any changes in general turns it off. Going into the hidden sound bezel menu also resets the APIM and does this. I am usually reminded that my APIM was reset due to my parking assist coming from only the dash speaker. Edit: didn't realize that this post was so old. Hopefully it is fine.

Correct, minimal wiring needed, Just a second power connector to the Sony AMP, new speaker wires to the front door to seperate the tweeters from the mid speakers. and new wires to the new center rear speaker. I'll just solder on spade connections to make that simple. I do have a question about a separate thing that I am looking into and I can't find it in the wiring diagram. I'll PM you.