17MKZ3.0TT

No idea what facility makes the replacement lines, or if the current strike(s) has affected them, but they were available 3-4 weeks ago when my '17 was in getting it's transmission replaced & they did the brake lines recall replacement at the same time.

I don't know how they pull, if/when I try the extra cut buffing I'll just mask the piece and do it on the car. The masking is just to avoid any unplanned buffing elsewhere, as the compound overspray just cleans up with a warm bucket of water and soft bath towel. FWIW, only the passenger side piece on my car has this problem, so it would appear it's caused by poor practices/worksmanship. 😞

My side pieces look like yours, eventually I'll tape 'em off and see how they buff out with some extra cut buffing compound (I have experience in working with gelcoated fiberglass and hard plastics) wetsanding with 1500 if required. If not happy with the results, I'll just drop them off at a body shop for gloss black base/clearcoat paint.

By chance is that in a footwell floor?

like bbf said, look at the warnings in the fuel section of your manual. If somehow you have a yellow fuel filler fitting "gas cap equiv." that says E85, it's the wrong one and should be replaced with the OEM. The 400hp 3.0 turbo shouldn't even be run on regular E10, only midrange or premium E10 or if available, non-alcohol.

Everything bbf2530 said is spot on, and just a change in gas stations could change it that month. Assuming normal maint. has been done, tire psi is good, and nothing happened that could have whacked your front end alignment out a little, 1 mpg is hard to track down.

Tough call, maybe consider a clean 2020 to get the last year Z? True trade in value will probably be zip (check online/Blue Book) but if it's clean, give a Ford/Lincoln Deal used car guy a chance to make an offer, he may have someone in Service looking for a good project 2nd car. I did that with a very clean high mileage Caddy STS once, dealership bought it and helped keep their top mechanic on the team letting him make weekly payments. I'm in a slightly similar situation with my under 50k mi. 2017 3.0T Z-putting a new tranny in it for $10k because it's clean and I like it, and when I let go I'll probably be done with the Lincoln brand since I don't want/need an SUV.

That gives some hope. Was that a warranty repair? My local Ford dealer (who does most things on the MKZ and my E350 van) has an in-house body shop, so hopefully I'm just going to be out some money; Unpacking this evening from a trip that involved 2 instances of valet parking & luggage delivery, my trunk suddenly doesn't line up on the left, it's ¼" high and ¼"straight back. I've got the tools to pop out the trunk liner fasteners with no damage so I did so to look for a broken or bent component and everything looks straight with no disturbed paint at any fastener like you'd expect if something slid. I have to conclude a bent bracket(s). I already have to drop the car off tomorrow morning to find out why the transmission is shifting like crap, so looks like I'm going to be unhappy for a while.

Or, sell them to someone with a $500 Ford Escort/Chevy Escort? You've got a very nice car that according to stats is going to need costly repairs to stay on the road with all it's factory options working. Any pre-repair fund raising would be wiser than optional parts & labor. ?

If your dealer has some OEM, $200 is a bargain for one if it works. Don't know what's required to pair up to a 2016 so find out if the dealer has to do it and what the price is.

It does involve little details like the parts, removing the sub frame, doing a wheel alignment afterwards, etc. I was more ticked off at the miles.

Anything that'll roll down the street is being snapped up right now. Car looks good, but I'm biased since I have a black '17.

Sounds good if you trust them, and have the replacement matching wheel promise in writing. A good body shop should be able to tell you quickly if there's been chassis repairs on any of the 4 corners, no guarantee the corner with the different wheel was where it was located in an accident. Not all maint. gets reported, btw, there could have been full oil changes by the owner, or various maint. by a small local shop that doesn't report to anyone. One reason I take mine to the local dealership and pay just a little more for the oil & filter and similar. There's no record of my changing the cabin filter...

Unless something changes, the diagnosis is in. It's not the electronic steering, it's the worn out rack & pinion system it's trying to push back & forth. Yeah, I guess 40k miles is a reasonable amount of time to wear out, compared to those Alabama Korean and Indiana Japanese economy cars costing less than my $50+k Lincoln MFF (Mexican Fancy Fusion). Estimate is $3780-ish plus tax. Guess 40K miles is the expected time for a nice bill on well-maintained Ford products now? My "E350 XLT Super Duty" 9 passenger van needed upper and lower ball joints at 40k miles. It normally has just the 2 front captains chairs in it, and 2x a year, a golf cart. I've had somewhere around a dozen Ford products since 1974 or 1975, with diminished satisfaction except for better rust protection with each successive. (I take full responsibility for the 1967 Mustang fastback 2+2 I bounced off two trees and totaled in '74.) ?

2017 3.0TT, just hit 40k miles and the electronic power steering quit. Was about a mile into a city errand trip, with only 6~7 90° turns, so I doubt the assist motor overheated. Fuse is good, so that's about all I can investigate on my own. Just dropped it off at the local Ford dealership that I've used for years with Ford trucks & later for the Z. I'll update as I find out what's up.