scn101

I put these on my 2019 MKZ. https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-Fusion-Jacking-Rails-CD4 These allow me to use a floor jack at the center of the car where the front and rear doors meet and allow for jack stands to be placed at each end of the jacking rails. I can then jack up the other side of the car in the same manner and have the car supported by four jack stands making tire rotations and other maintenance jobs easy.

Do you replace the drain plug gasket? The reason I ask is the car has had four oil changes using the original gasket and I figured I should replace it during my next oil change. I was at my local large Ford dealership and the parts guy said they don't stock the gaskets, only the complete drain plug that includes the gasket and they don't sell many of them a year. So I'm guessing that reusing the drain plug and gasket is normal...for the life of the car or I guess until you see it drip?!! What do you all think?

I think the part that is loose is for the ride control. It measures the how fast the wheel is moving up and down and compensates by adjusting the shock's damping.

When you say that "he could not get the smaller fill plug loose," what did he try? I had a similar situation, not on a PTU but on a manual transmission, and I used a propane torch to heat the area around the plug, and for good measure, I then zapped the inside of the plug with a short blast of freeze spray (you can use a can of dust off upside down for the same effect). I would try heat alone first. Then if that doesn't work, once it all cools down, redo the heat and try the freeze spray. For me, the plug came out after doing both. You do need to be fairly quick about all of the steps so the heat doesn't transfer to the plug...expanding it as well. On another note, I had a rough time trying to install a freeze plug once, finally resorted to putting the plug in the freezer overnight. Next morning it when in no problem, just a few light taps.

Hi ajschicago, Did you end up getting a bicycle carrier? If you did, which one and how well did it perform? Or if anyone else on the forum has some real world experiences on their MKZ with a bike carrier, please do tell! Thanks.

If you remove the positive or negative battery cable you'll cause all modules to do a full reset. If possible, it might be best to leave the battery disconnected overnight to ensure all modules fully deplete any standby capacitor charge they may have and put the battery on a charger. This way you should have a fully charged battery when you reconnect the cable. One more thing, make sure your battery is good, test it if you can, so you can rule it out as a cause of any issues.

When I picked up my new 2019 MKZh in Jan of 2020 its battery was dead due to sitting on the lot for too long without being started. They replaced the battery of course. One year later I was getting the conserving battery warning along with a litany of other systems shutting down like the auto lock/unlock when you touch a door handle other than the drivers, the radio shutting off within seconds of the shutting the car off (before opening a door), no Lincoln approach lights, etc. Dealer said I wasn't driving enough yet I was keeping the battery on a battery tender, they replaced the battery. Fast forward to earlier this year and the same thing. This time instead of going to the dealer I disconnected the battery from the vehicle and put the battery charger in "restore" mode. That's supposed to take up to 4H to complete but it took over two days to complete. I then hooked up the battery and the issues were gone. The battery tender/charger I used was the Noco Genius G3500. I read that the car measures the battery charge when the car is left undisturbed for eight straight hours, which of course is every night. However, I read in one place that this measurement only occurs if the vehicle is locked, which I do not do in my garage. Since the battery restoration about two months ago I've been locking the car at night. My driving is still sporadic (I work from home) but so far no electrical issues. I don't know if locking the car has made any difference but so far no issues. One thing to note, due to the BMS (battery management system) in our vehicles, if you charge the battery with an external charger (battery tender, etc.) you need to connect the negative lead to a chassis ground point, not to the battery's negative terminal, this allows the BMS to measure the charge going into the battery. You still connect the red positive lead directly to the battery.

The other day my 2019 MKZh "texted" me via the Lincoln app that my vehicle went into a low power mode while I was at the gym and shut down its remote app start/unlock. I've not been driving it much, and when I do, the trips are often short. I charged the battery when I got home and no issues since. One thing to keep in mind if you're going to charge the battery. The BMS, battery management system, keeps track of the amount of charge going in and out of the battery and does this via a current probe on the negative battery clamp. So when you attach a battery charger you attach the positive clamp to the battery's + terminal and the negative clamp to a ground point (on my hybrid the battery is in the trunk and there are several ground straps I can attach to). This way the BMS sees the charge entering the battery and won't try to overcharge it later.

I agree with @leftoverture. I preferred the smaller size key fob from my 2014 Fusion vs my 2019 MKZH fob that is way to big and heavy for what it does.

I updated Sync successfully but when I go back to the Lincoln website to upload the XML file as per the "Step 3 confirm update" instructions I'm greeted with the following error. I've tried with both Firefox and Chrome so I fairly certain the issue is with the Lincoln website. Upload failed. Please try again later.

Thanks for this information. I just logged in and the update is also available for 2019 vehicles as well: Your SYNC system will be updated to SYNC3 v3.4.21020

When I purchased my MKZh new it needed a new battery as it sat on the lot so long that it destroyed the original battery. They put in a new Motorcraft battery. Typically hybrids are easy on the 12V battery as they only need the battery to power the electronics on the vehicle and do not need to crank the engine, so they tend to last a long time, yet that battery lasted just over a year! Recently I was having weird issues with the vehicle and the dealership said it was the battery. They replaced it under warranty and sure enough, the issues were gone. On that note, I had a 2014 Fusion Hybrid that still had its original battery six years after I bought it new when I traded it for the MKZh. So either the quality of Motorcraft batteries has slipped considerably or I was just unlikely. Either way, your battery needing replacement at 46 months doesn't seem that odd and luckily a cheap fix.

Were your doors locked when you walked up to vehicle? I believe the welcome/approach lights only turn on if the vehicle is locked.

Furthering the story. IA again quit on all passenger doors. So this time I decided to disconnect the battery and fully recharge it. Put it back in the vehicle and did a BMS reset (ignition on without starting the car [don't press the brake], flash the high beam 5 times, then press the brake three times and you'll see the little red battery icon flash 3 or 4 times indicated the BMS was reset). That worked for about a day. I also noticed that if you sat in the vehicle after driving it and turned off the ignition without opening a door, the radio and center screen would cut out and die after about a minute instead of the usual 20 minutes, after that IA no longer worked on the passenger doors. So I went to the dealer and they diagnosed it as a failing battery. This is surprising as I tested the battery using a Schumacher BT-250 battery tester that has always reliably called out bad batteries vs good ones and the one year old battery showed up as good on it. Anyways, the dealer replaced the battery. If that's the fix then I guess I can't trust the BT-250, but if IA fails again, I'll go back to the dealer and report back here.

That's my plan. If it happens again, off to the dealer for further diagnosis.

As I thought more about the issue I figured I'd try a hard reboot of all the computers in the vehicle before taking it to the dealer. I disconnected the negative battery terminal for about an hour. Reconnected the battery and low and behold, IA now works on all doors. These really are rolling computers.

I noticed today that I cannot lock or unlock any of the three passenger doors via Intelligent Access (IA). The driver's door lock and unlock using Intelligent Access works just fine so the FOB is OK (same issue using the spare FOB). The FOB's lock/unlock buttons works properly on all doors (1st push unlocks the driver's, 2nd push unlocks all, lock locks all four). Trunk opens when I push the trunk button on the trunk if I have the FOB when the car is locked, as expected. Keypad works as expected too. I know IA used to work but recently had 2019 MKZh in for an oil change and a rattle, not sure if that's related. I can't find any setting that disables IA on all doors except the driver's. Thoughts? Seems like a problem for the dealer to sort.

I installed these jacking rails: https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-Fusion-Jacking-Rails-CD4 They run along the length of the pinch welds and allow you to jack the vehicle at any point along the rail. You can raise one side of the vehicle using a floor jack in the middle of the rail and then slip jack stands at each end (front and back) of the rail if you want to work underneath the vehicle. Another benefit is my car no longer creaks when I back into my garage due to the uneven incline of my driveway meaning the body isn't flexing as it used to, which I think has to be good. Installation was a breeze and I did not have to jack the car up to install them.

This is also happening to my 2019.

I had a similar filter on my 2003 Sable that I replaced every 30K miles. Sold the car a long time ago but replacing it was easy. From memory: remove fuel pump fuse, start car, car will run for a few seconds and stall. Now you've relieved pressure in the fuel line. Gain access to the filter, and on each side of the filter there is a rubber hose connected via a U-style plastic clamp. I used a very small slotted screwdriver to open the legs of the clamp while prying it up. You don't remove the clamp, you just move it up to its next stop, about 4-5mm. Then the hoses will slip off. You may need to spin the filter a bit to loosen it from the rubber hoses. Install new filter with the arrow pointing towards the engine, push the clamps back down and you're done. Replace fuel pump fuse, turn ignition to run position and then off again a few times to allow the fuel pump to fill the filter and restore pressure (you should hear the pump priming each time you turn the key to run), then crank the engine and it'll fire up. Check for leaks and replace any trim/cover that you removed to gain access. Do this outside or with the garage door open as there will be gas in the filter. Have a catch can and rags at the ready. Ask me about how much fun it is to replace the fuel pump on your driveway! That happened on the Sable just shy of 90K miles. Learned my lesson, don't run your car with less than 1/8 or preferably 1/4 of a tank of gas as the pump sits in the fuel to cool itself. And I can only imagine how an overheated pump (due to a low fuel level) must like cold gas poured all over it when refueling, that fast expansion can't be doing it any good. I never ran out of gas but would often run to E and fill up along the highway. I think that shortened its life.

Are you starting the bleed process at the RR corner? Ensure you start at the RR, then LR, RF, and finally LF corners. I don't know if you have rear integral parking brake calipers but if you do, you need to apply and release the parking about five times before you open the rear bleeders. As long as the fluid in the master reservoir never goes below min the air should stop.

Decided to put a set of the Husky mats in the MKZ just like I had in the Fusion. Definitely better overall protection. Cut the driver side Husky mats anchors out to allow the factory mats to snap right in. The Husky mats fit better in the MKZ than they did in the Fusion (the part numbers were different for each). The Husky 2017-2019 MKZ p/n is 98791.

https://www.autotrader.com/best-cars/10-best-car-interiors-under-50000-2020-281474979988774

I agree that Husky Floor liners are very nice. I placed them in my Fusion and am contemplating a set for the MKZ. I'm not worried about snow and slush where I live so I ended up cutting holes in the driver's side Husky liner to allow the factory floor mat retainers to protrude high enough to allow the factory carpeted floor mat to still attach and anchor down. Looked better, IMHO, than just the rubber look of the liner. Also placed the passenger carpet mat over the Husky but without an anchor, the carpet mat did move around whenever a passenger exited the vehicle, no big deal really.