Viking

I don't have the revel system, just the old old 9 speaker whatever that they had in 2012, but I bought the car for winter driving originally. I use the USB stick system, which gives me awesome sounding music, and only what I want to hear with no extras, no cutouts and always great sound. Sirius here in Canada is hellish expensive. I have two cars, a truck and two motorcycles, which all have SiriusXM radio capability, and to equip them all would be about $300 a year, and that is with all the deals for use on multi vehicles. After each six month trial per vehicle for the ones that got that promo, I almost had to change my email address, name, telephone number and address to get them to stop calling with "deals" that were not deals. Oh, and the car turned out to be such a nice driver that I drove it all summer as well. Nice cars these Lincoln MKZs. And yes, I realize that this is a revival of a 2019 thread.

Ford power steering hoses tend to go anytime after 10 or 12 years of use, and 2008 to now is just about right. The only solution is to replace the hose. They are not repairable. A shop service manual is very useful. Cost: https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-pressure-line-hose/lincoln/mkz/2008 I could not find a youtube on replacing it for a 2008 MKZ, sorry.

When they say the car has a "branded title", do they mean that the car was written off by an insurance company, and then fixed and put back into service?

Thank you for sharing, Fastitocalon.

If you do not mind my asking, Fastitocalon, could you give more info on those rims? They are really sharp.

Thank you bbf2530 for clarifying this. I knew there were two different specs but did not, obviously, have the correct year of change. Enlightened now. LOL

Ruby, to the best of my knowledge, the lugnut size changed in 2013 to 14X1.5. The 12X1.5 are 2012 and older MKZ. I suspect, when you get these, they will not be correct. This happened to me with Amazon about three months ago, and I ended up buying McGard and selling the first set to a guy with a Chrysler. For my MKZ it was the opposite of what you are doing, as mine is a 2012. Someone else please correct me if i am wrong.

Is this an indication that you think my question was crap?

Just saved me $50 + bbf2530. Thank you.

Hi all. Should my trunk lid open up fully with the pressure of the struts, or are they just to dampen movement both opening and closing? Mine does not open all the way, so do I need new struts? It unlocks but only moves about an eighth of an inch, just enough to get my fingers under it and open it. The reason I do not know is that this is the first sedan I have ever owned with struts instead of the spring things.

For a pretty detailed read on what may work for MKZ mods by Forscan, the Fusion Forum has a 145+ page thread found here: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573 There is a lot of cross use between the Fusions and the MKZ, but like all things, you pays yer money and you takes yer chances. Best to do a lot of reading, methinks.

That light should be part of a 2 or 3 or like that. Put the shifter in gear and push it to the right to select the manual mode, then shift it forward to downshift or backward to upshift. This should show numbers like 1, 2, 3 etc. in the spot where you have that light. There should be possible numbers 1 thru 6. As my car was parked when I took the pics, I could only get 1, 2 and 3. NOTE: Upon closer comparison, it almost seems Willy J, that the tiny weird light is below anyplace where the numbers should be, so I dunno what else to say.

If I was looking for a new car now, I think I would be looking at Genesis, KIA Stinger (although I really did like the Cadenza), Infinity, Lexus and Mercedes - all of whom still make luxury sedans. As I still have a Ford F250 Superduty diesel 4X4 and this MKZ, I am likely good for a while.

Amazon sells McGard sets of four to a package, so need five packages, or four and a package of wheel lock nuts. These are available for a very reasonable price, especially at the .com site. I bought from the .ca and even here they were just $60 for 20 nuts. I am very happy with the quality.

You have a good dealer. They are likely not using impact wrenches on them and are probably not in a hurry. All of my original nuts are marked up, and five of them were of no more use whatever.

Dunno if anyone else thinks that lug nuts are too expensive, but I do. I found these on Amazon, and thought they were more to the left of the price point. I bought a set, and blew it on this one. I have no idea if they will rust on me, but in my opinion, they are worlds better than the capped nuts that were on the car (only see edit below). Five of the capped nuts had been squashed by an impact and I had to drive an impact socket onto them to get them off, and then use a vice to get them out of the impact socket. Anyway, a link for you (I removed the link so nobody else goes through what I just did) and the price does not matter if the product is the wrong one.. By the way, please note that I am using these on a 2012 MKZ EDIT EDIT EDIT - DO NOT BUY THESE.... i BLEW IT BOYS. I had a wheel off to check the brakes and discovered that the neck of each lug nut was not going through the hole in the wheel. I would have to drill all my wheel holes out to 18 or 19 MMs in order fore these to work as they should. It is a very good thing that I only drove about 20 miles all together on these, as if any had come loose I would have ruined that wheel. I took all but five of them off, and will limp around like this until my newly ordered McGard lug nuts come in. I have four original lug nuts and one washer nut on each of three wheels and three originals and two washer nuts on the fourth, which will suffice till 1st of April. Final Note: The nuts I bought were actually made in a size to fit Toyota OEM aluminum wheels, so the idea of the washered mag wheel nuts was correct, but the stem size to fit throught the lug holes in the wheels was too large. They do, I presume, make these in a size to fit my wheels, but I just went back to coned nuts from McGard.

This was the reason for the link that I posted. The one mentioned on 2gfusions was from a 2016 post, and it really was iffy how it worked. So OBDLink manufactured the one in the link in the very first post of this thread, specifically for ForScan. It works very well.

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If anyone is thinking of buying an interface cable for ForScan, you might want to look into this companies product which was specifically made for ForScan, and does not require a switch to support HS-Can and MS-Can https://www.obdlink.com/ex/ I got mine from Amazon, and it is also available direct from obdlink.com

Got a couple in Vancouver, British Columbia who have made over 100K buying cleaning supplies at four different Costco stores and overpriced reselling on Amazon, since this Virus became commonplace. That is what - for us - a matter of maybe four weeks. Amazon has cut them off. They say, they had to make the extra money to keep their children in "private school". I walked into Walmart yesterday for milk and bread, to find they had none and had signs up limiting both to one per customer. This requires that people go to Walmart more often, which sort of negates social distancing. When things get stupid, they go downhill in a hurry.

bbf2530 and DrOlds, thank you very much for the explanations. My awareness has been raised ?. The terms I have always been familiar with for trannys are such as 4R100 and 5R110 and further in the past, C-4 and C-6. So far, I had not yet needed to move into the modern world, but I guess it is time, LMAO. I really appreciate your patience guys.

Sorry DrOlds, but an ATX is ?. Is that the version of transmission? Thank you.

I have an older car than Alla Y'All, but I noticed that this thread was in December, in Canada, so I might have an inkling of what is going on. (yes, I noticed that not all of you are in Canada). If I start out before letting the car warm up a bit, while it is still on high throttle, I will get this from 1-2. It continues throughout stops until the car warms up and drops RPMs. Just a thought I am sharing. Might have no bearing whatever.

You would be amazed at how many people cannot use a map, but the ramifications you mention are truer than heck. Also, you have stated very nicely the reasons that I really like GPS units. The Garmin dezl 760 LMT I have does have an SD card slot, but with it, I do not yet need a card. It has lots of memory going into the future. The Tom Tom and old Garmins and the Magellan had no sd slots. They would update, but only with a truncated map (part of the U.S., or Canada, but not all) for a couple of years, and then no longer at all. They are probably all older than your Nuvi. The Nuvi is quite sophisticated compared to some of the older units.

GPS factory installed units are seldom worth what they charge for them after they require the first "paid for after the fact" update. That Genesis that DrOlds mentioned is an example of a company attempting to make their Nav more attractive. I have Nav in a Ford Pickup, and in my Goldwing Motorcycle. I have given up on the Ford for updates, and I hacked the Goldwing in order to keep it up to date. For all other purposes, I have a "truckers" Garmin with seven inch screen with lifetime updates, which will also end when the files get too big for the 8GB interior memory. That is what lifetime means, apparently, as all my older GPS units, Tom Tom, Garmin and Magellan have all ceased to update due to the size of the maps and the limits of the memory. Having spent quite some time in the Army, I value GPS very much, but still know how to use maps. The first GPS units we had were the size of briefcases, and still were only accurate to within about three miles. We have come a long way since the late 1960s/early 1970s with this tech and the accuracy of it. Triangulating back then meant exactly that - 3 satellite read. Now they use 12. To cut this short - given the choice, I will not pay for GPS factory units. Portables are so much more updateable.