Viking

All the math done and calculated, we are paying the equivalent of $5.50 US for a US gallon up here in the great white north. My MKZ is not that good for MPG, but the truck I just sold was a whole lot worse.

I would try a radiator rebuilder. They should have plugs for just about every radiator made.

I also replied in your other post on this same subject, so I copied my reply here. Well, the very first thing I would do would be to charge up the battery till it showed full, if it ever does - then load test it. If the load test fails, you need a battery before you can go any further with this. Also, if the battery will not charge up to full (12.6 volts) then you may need a new battery. Either way, you need a good battery in the car to attempt diagnosis of anything else.

Well, the very first thing I would do would be to charge up the battery till it showed full, if it ever does - then load test it. If the load test fails, you need a battery before you can go any further with this. Also, if the battery will not charge up to full (12.6 volts) then you may need a new battery. Either way, you need a good battery in the car to attempt diagnosis of anything else.

It is my studied opinion that you will really like the Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires. As I bought my MKZ as mainly a winter driver, as I drive an F250 diesel with a slide in camper most of the summer, I put the Cross Climates on right away. I have had two winters (and one and a half summers due to Covid) with the ires, and they are good to very good in snow and excellent in all other conditions. They are very quiet as well. We get a bit of snow here as well in Ontario.

I bought these tires preinstalled on my MKZ when I purchased it used. It needed tires, so I threw in the extra bucks to get these over the el-cheapos they would have slapped on to pass safety inspections. I originally bought the car (a 2012) as a winter driver only, but love it so much I am driving it year round. I am very happy with the tires in all weather, winter, spring, summer and fall with the exception of six or more inches of wet snow. They do struggle to break a trail through something this heavy. They are quiet as well. I would highly recommend them for anyone who puts only under 10K a year on their cars in northern climate where the weather has all aspects. I cannot yet recommend it as a higher mile tire as I have not experienced that as of yet, nor will I likely.

One thing I have discovered from buying and owning new Ford vehicles is that the replacement batteries sold by Ford are NOT the same quality as the OEM batteries in the new cars. I have easily gotten up to six years from OEMs but seldom more than three years from their replacements (which they say are identical, but even looking at them shows they are not) I really wish I could discover who makes their OEM batteries, because I am really impressed with them.

Bout friggin time. I have three four wheel vehicles and just got rid of a fourth. All four had/have the secondary in a different place and require a different movement. Three of them are Ford/Lincoln.

Undercoating faithfully saves a lot of vehicles. As well as my MKZ, I have a 2004 F250 Superduty 4X4 which has had Krown treatment yearly since new. It has no rust, but is hellish dirty to work under.

For the rumbling and vibration, check the driveshaft. Good chance that is your problem there. On the whining, it is possible it is a combination of the A/C pump drawing enough of the engine torque to affect the alternator's attempts to recharge the tiny battery. So the alternator whines a bit. On the first, you would have a toss up on the transfer cast or the driveshaft as to which is more expensive and painful to fix. The driveshaft is expensive, not serviceable, but easy to change, while the transfer case is serviceable, but a real pain. The transfer case drain hole is on the right side lower case, and the fill hole above and to the rear of that. I do not know anything about the mythical self tapped drain plug. The transfer case uses 75W90 gear lube. The transfer case, by the way is known as a PTU or Power Transfer Unit in these cars.

My guess, with almost no knowledge of Hybrid cars, but a working knowledge of batteries and what is electric or electronic on these cars is that your hybrid batteries are getting old. They are probably not holding as full a charge as they did when new, and so need that extra alternator boost at the beginning. As I said tho - just a guess.

According to Volvo, this is what they recommend. Should be pretty close for other brands: https://www.volvocars.com/en-ca/support/manuals/s90-recharge-plug-in-hybrid/2020w17/electric-motor-and-charging/electric-motor-and-charging/long-term-storage-of-vehicles-with-hybrid-batteries

Madrid's rare snowfall is our average snowfall. Got about 4 feet in the back yard right now.

Maybe not the issue, but have the driveshaft checked. I had a problem very similar to this, and that was the reason. It was a TSB item for these year models.

But there has to be perforation, and it has to be from the inside out, in their judgement. I have gone through this several times with Ford dealers. My solution has been to Krown coat my vehicles from new. I have a 2004 Ford F250 Superduty diesel with absolutely no rust aside from the surface frame rust that comes as soon as the wax coating peels off. I have had Ford vehicles since the 1960s and this has always been a problem. Newer GMC and Cheverolet trucks are now having this same problem where I live, but there is a lot of calcium chloride and salt used here in winter, which exacerbates the problem. Krown or Rust Check, or other undercoats which "creep" are about the only solution that really works in my neighborhood. We just have to accept the mess that comes with having an oily substance picking up dirt and soot.