TomV

Rear is easy, I put the jack under the spring of the rear control arm. My low profile floor jacks have polyurethane pads.

I also have Steeda jacking rails for the front. Wish they extended further forward, but they do the job.

Recently I picked up an Eastwood Detachable Car Ramp Set for oil changes and it works great for that!

Entire headlight from what I keep reading... but maybe you can try some troubleshooting by examining the connectors and grounds.

Lincoln Nautilus speakers look like it had a Revel system. Those will work and take more power than your factory speakers, but might not play as loud with the factory amp.

I'm not as familiar with the base system, as I am the Revels. However, I recall the factory head unit being non-HD radio and it powers the main speakers. There is a separate amplifier for the 6x9s in the rear deck.

I don't believe anyone manufactures a wiring adapter to the speaker wires, so if you add external amplifiers someone is going to have to cut the wires coming out of the head unit and/or amplifier and feed them into high level inputs on the aftermarket amp. Then tie in new wires from the aftermarket amp to the speakers. 

I'd recommend getting some quotes from trusted audio shops in your area to see what type of labor charges are involved and perhaps they have done these systems before or have other solutions. Good Luck.

You may need to disconnect your factory 6X9 subwoofer, because the subs in the trunk will distort it.

I have a sealed subwoofer firing up from under the rear package shelf, between the 6x9 factory subs, so I was able to keep them hooked up.

Update, I finally got tired of the oil smell and yanked the can. I put a new factory PCV plate that comes with the plastic hose.

While removing the can, I noticed the carbon buildup on the valves looked a little worse than I remembered, so I'm not sure the can was even working that well to begin with.

Connecting to the factory 6x9 subs works perfectly fine in my car and I don't get any cut out and can run full volume.

Now I left my 6x9's hooked up, perhaps your factory amp is going into a protection mode because of no load on the factory subs? Also, depending on the size and where you connected your aftermarket amplifier, perhaps your starving the factory amp of voltage/current.

Oil inside cylinder 2 could be from a junked up intake valve. Not sure if the 2014 is GDI, but I suspect it is and that is a unfortunate side effect when fuel doesn't come down the port.

It's pretty easy to pull the intake manifold aside and visually inspect the valves. It only takes me 10 minutes to inspect mine. Perhaps find a mechanic to try that first to see if the root cause can be located before you spend a lot of money.

Time to buy some degreaser at your local autoparts store and clean it up. Then perhaps you'll be able to determine where its coming from when it starts to leak again.

If you pull the passenger side panel in the trunk, you can verify the connections to the ACM and amplifier are secure.

Unsure of the type of repair you were in for, but perhaps they just left something unplugged.

If you have Forscan software you could check that all modules are communicating. Particularly the ACM and the APIM. 

If not, I had post that described using the bezel diagnostics.

Bezel Diagnostics

This is an interesting topic! I usually drive in "comfort" mode and use the S button for "sport" engine and suspension when needed.

So I tried "normal" mode for suspension on my long highway commute to work and noticed slightly better mileage. I'll have to try this mode a bit longer to see if it's reality or not.

If "normal" mode yields better mileage, I suspect it could be from less wind resistance with less bouncing up and down at speed.

Stiffer suspension might also provide more torque applied from chassis to ground, that otherwise could be wasted in compliance.

Just my thoughts...

https://lljcustoms.com/products/select-ford-lincoln-2021-2025-anc-bypass
 

you might contact this guy to see if he has a bypass cable. 

I disabled the ANC in the DSP module and I think that did the trick. My engine definitely sounds more "4 bangerish" now. Not sure that I like this sound in a bigger car.

I may re-enable it after a few more test drives.

I meant the slider background color in 3.4 wouldn’t be gold. 

I disabled my ANC today. I didn't seem to have a problem with ANC and my aftermarket subwoofer, but I figured I'd give the disable a try.

I don't hear much of a difference though, so I was just looking at my Forscan spreadsheet and found another ANC option in the DSP section.

Perhaps the original ACM section was only for the fake engine sound, so I'll try this tweak shortly.

Since my vehicle didn't come with rear mid range speakers, I had to custom install some mids from a Continental. I sourced whatever I could from wrecked Lincolns on ebay. They look identical to the MKZ mids, except for the the location of the mounting tabs. I've got to assume that Lincoln/Revel used the same basic speaker driver design in all the models, with the only differences being in mounting or color. This reuse would be done for cost savings when factoring in the thousands of drivers needed over the entire production range.

CONTINENTAL FA1T-18808-EB

My front mids should be the same as an Ultima car, however the tweeters in a true Ultima car are obviously silver and have an illuminated "R" logo.

I've also researched the components on both the 14 and 20 channel amplifiers. They use the same HARMAN custom DSP chip. This is where all the tuning magic happens for our cars. I suspect there are some minor differences or tweaks in tuning between models or revisions. I had also read that each amplifier channel was precision calibrated during manufacturing before being shipped to Lincoln factories.

HARMAN DSP

Check out the upgrade thread if you get some free time.

The large circular on-screen volume indicator has driven me crazy since I first got this car. It's way too big and bright, especially at night.

So I decided to try a tweak that I noticed in the Sync Module (APIM) using Forscan.

7D0-01-01   xxxx   *xxx   xxxx

Aux Input & Volume Knob Display:

• 0=Audio Only & Rotary volume
• 8=Audio & Video & Rotary volume
• 1=Audio Only & Horizontal volume

I'm not crazy about the gold background (Sync 3.3) but I'm liking this better than the original rotary volume.

At night this volume indicator is so much better!

And I suspect it would look even better with Sync 3.4.

I listed this in the ACN Defeat Thread for a 2019 Lincoln MKZ.

For those not wanting to use Forscan, the 3 microphones connect to the ACM in the trunk.

Cut or disconnect 1 wire from each mic and there will be no signal coming in.

ACM 26 pin connector and wire color:

Left

• MIC 1 +   pin 1      VT-OG
• MIC 1 -    pin 14    YE-GY

Front

• MIC 2 +   pin 2      YE-VT
• MIC 2 -    pin 15    BU-BN

Rear 

• MIC 3 +   pin 7      BU-GN
• MIC 3 -    pin 20    WH-OG

Takeshi it's good to hear from you again. I agree that Lincoln Revel is one of the best sounding OEM systems in the market today.

Since you've last been on this forum, I actually upgraded my 14 spkr Revel system to the 20 spkr Ultima (there is a separate thread on that project) and I'm not experiencing any Sibilance problem. My Ultima Amplifier/DSP has a 20170526 date code, so perhaps I got a unit with a better tune. I also don't have the silver metal grills, but I doubt those impact sound quality or they wouldn't have been used. I believe the Revel Ultima system sounds excellent, providing the source music is high quality (HD Radio, FLAC, CD). 

I also don't detect any speaker timing problems, as if the Continental tune was loaded into the MKZ. The Continental front tweeters are farther forward of the mid range driver, where as the MKZ has the mid range driver below the tweeter. My front sound stage blends the drivers very well and I've never seen any article or post that Revel didn't tune each vehicle model separately.

The only things it's missing from the Revel systems (in my opinion) is low end output and power. I added a JL Audio  10" powered sub under the rear deck and that has definitely helped with the low end, however it still has the factory roll off under 30Hz. As far as more power, I'm stuck with the factory amplifier. If I wanted more volume, I'd have to get rid of the factory Amplifier/DSP completely and use an A2B convertor (mObridge or ZEN) with aftermarket audio equipment.

Nice, glad I inspired you. ? A sub tied into the rear subwoofer channels definitely adds the missing low end.

I think adding a JL Audio FiX 82 or something to deal with the factory low end roll-off would make it perform even better.

However, I'm not wanting to add any more money to my system, so I'll just enjoy what I have now.

Also, Front Tweeters present is likely non-REVEL.

According to what I could find, your car has ANC enabled, but is missing USB support.

I just stumbled across the company that manufactures the speaker grills and badges for Ford/Lincoln.

https://www.theoakwoodgroup.com/

Their News section has a couple cool Lincoln articles and videos.

The TSB for the long block replacement includes engine mount nuts and bolts.

For your mounts to fail so soon, seems like they didn't torque the mounts properly after reinstall. Seems odd that all 3 would fail too, but at least they plan to fix it for you once parts are available.

You'll notice above in the post I'm worried that some of my coolant went somewhere. Since then I purchased a new overflow reservoir cap. A defect cap could let out water vapor, so I'll see how it holds as time goes forward.