TomV

Search eBay for MKZ door panels and you'll see pictures of the structure behind that area. I don't believe the top comes apart easily. I recall parts were ultrasonically welded/riveted together. You might be able to use a contact cement on the underside of the loose material. Find a tuck tool to push it back into place next to the trim. A local upholstery shop might able be able to fix it.

When I finally got my JL Audio sub installed, I tied into the factory subwoofer channels and I don't hear anything from the ANC. I guess I got lucky.

Very interesting information! Thanks for sharing! Perhaps the ratio you see is due to atmospheric conditions? Where are you located? Close to sea level or a higher elevation? I'm wondering if another variable is causing the OAR to be a little less than optimal.

The topic of what are the "best" replacement speakers for the factory systems has been asked frequently. Most answers come from someone who has already tried an aftermarket speaker with some success or the person is referred to Crutchfield to find something that simply fits the factory location. The problem we have is that no one knows the driver specifications of the factory OEM speakers, other than they are 4 ohm and the physical dimensions. Well today I happened to find a really cool device to measure loud speakers. Dayton Audio DATS V3 Computer Based Speaker & Audio Component Test System This DATS V3 device could be used to find the actual T/S parameters of our OEM Lincoln drivers. Then we could search for aftermarket drivers with similar specs, but perhaps a higher quality design. Keeping the T/S parameters similar should keep the factory tuning as optimal as possible. So in my opinion, this would be the way to recommend the "best" replacement speakers for our Lincolns.

It's the white piece a couple inches from the 90 deg intake connector in the image above.

This doesn't answer your question, but here are some details I found online about the topic. Octane Adjustment Ratio. For anyone’s reference, now & moving forward. All Ford Ecoboosts use a dynamic multiplier known as Octane Adjust Ratio. This parameter can be monitored with our tuning devices and is helpful in ensuring the fuel in your tank is adequate. It is especially important on an Ecoboost vehicle when peak power is expected (dyno tuning, racing) to make sure the parameter is at the optimal -1.0 value. STRATEGY BACKGROUND This vehicle is equipped with several dynamic load, airflow, and torque targeting and limiting strategies. These strategies allow the vehicle to achieve consistent performance with varying atmospheric conditions and fuel quality. There are no set “boost targets” with these strategies, and as such boost pressure can vary depending on driving conditions. HOW IT ALL WORKS From the factory, Ford typically designs the base calibration to allow use of 87+ octane fuel and recommends using 91+ octane fuel for optimal power. They can do this by means of a dynamic multiplier that allows for adjustment of each of these targeting and limiting strategies which we call the “OAR” (Octane Adjust Ratio). The OAR starts life at a value of 0.0 and is allowed to learn in two directions. When fuel quality and knock sensor feedback are optimal, the OAR will adjust towards -1.0. When these are sub-optimal, the OAR will adjust towards +1.0. I bet you’re wondering why -1.0 is better? Well for one, since this value is a multiplier and not an offset the ECU code can be optimized to use a single table comprised of negative values to handle the spectrum of operating conditions. Take ignition timing corrections for example; with an OAR at -1.0, multiplying against a negative becomes positive which is then added as positive correction to ignition timing. However, when conditions are sub-par a +1.0 OAR will result in negative correction to ignition timing. HOW DOES IT EFFECT POWER? Additionally, the OAR is used in other strategies such as LSPI (Low Speed Preignition), and part-throttle combustion stability. These are functions designed to dynamically limit load production in the event that fuel quality is not optimal. We want the ECU to limit load as it will remove stress and prevent damage automatically. The part-throttle limiter allows for casual driving at moderate loads while maintaining stoichiometric operation. This allows for increases in fuel mileage but at the expense of heat. Heat is generated much more quickly with lower octane fuels and can cause detonation. This is why it is necessary for the OAR to step in and allow for adjustment. In the case of LSPI, the OAR is used to create a blending ratio between three separate load limits to mitigate the possibility of preignition.

I know the PCV valve allows the crank case to vent under "non-boosted" conditions into the intake manifold. What I don't know is how the crank case is vented under "boosted" conditions. It's not through the PCV because the intake would be pressurized under boost. I've read some manufactures use the turbo inlet piping to pull from the crank case when under boost, instead of the PCV. Not sure how Ford vents the crank case under boost or even at all??? Something I did find that would work is the CFM Valve Cover Breather. CFM PERFORMANCE BILLET VALVE COVER BREATHER KIT FOR 2013-2015 FUSION ECOBOOST 2.0 It contains a check valve that lets pressure OUT, but nothing IN. I'm curious if anyone has one of these or knows if Ford manages crank pressure under boost?

In the picture above, the top hose slips onto the factory PCV valve, which has a 90 degree fitting that is non-removable. The end fitting on the lower hose came from the factory tubing that connected to the intake. I'm still trying to determine whether the check valve is too restrictive or not. Now that the weather is getting nicer in Ohio, I should be driving it more and hope to find out how much the can is collecting.

Another season done! Thanks to COVID, I didn’t drive much the two winters and really didn’t need these yet.

I ordered a new PCV Baffle Plate for my 2019 2.0T (PN# EJ7E-6A785-BA). This will be used if I remove my catch can. I had to slice the original hose to install the can and they don't sell the hose individually. The hose is plastic PVC to resist boost and oil fumes and shaped to drain back oil. This revision differs from the image above. Notice the small exit vents within the rectangular box! That's the only place crank gases can leave. You would think oil/water vapor would have a difficult time exiting, but my catch can tells a different story. I'm curious if the baffle on my car is the same revision and if Ford may any significate design changes over the years. I'll eventually find out... and post here.

Sorry, I don't 100% believe that Cellular is incapable of updates. I received at least 2 unwanted updates to 3.4. They happened when I least expected it, such as driving on the highway at least an hour from home. I was once connected on WiFi, but then I disabled auto update after my first update to 3.4, which was probably where it started. Back when this happened I started another post here about unplugging the damn modem. That held off the updates, until I found the Master Reset and not initializing the Lincoln Way app work around.

I guess no telling what happened then, but Lincoln can push updates over Cellular whether you want it or not. WiFi has options not to update, but Cellular doesn’t. They would update me while driving when I was far from my home WiFi. The only way I could prevent mine updating from 3.3 to 3.4 over Cellular was to do a master reset and NOT agree to Lincoln Way. I used Cyan to get back to 3.3 and lost usage of the app. I don’t like 3.4 because of the reduction in audio volume. Anyway, I hope your issue was just a fluke.

I wonder if Lincoln pushed a Sync Update over Cellular? Do you recall what revision you had previously?

It's similar to an older car that came with a cassette radio and they don't sell cassette's anymore. They aren't going to offer a free DVD player. Just a case of outdated technology... not Ford/Lincoln's fault.

MagnaFlow makes a performance exhaust for the 2.0L (PN# 15230) This is the same one that Steeda sells, and it's very expensive. Stainless steel and nice bends. If it was half the price... it might be more appealing.

I just emptied some water from the can, which means it’s still working properly with the check valve. So the modifications seem to be good thus far.

If I were to "upgrade" a BASE system, without completely re-engineering the system, this would be my game plan: Maintain the factory head unit in the dash. Replace each door with aftermarket 2-way component sets. (Tweeters and woofers with passive crossovers) Install an aftermarket 4-channel amplifier (50W to 100W RMS per channel with high level inputs) in the trunk near the factory ACM. I would cut the speaker wiring leaving the ACM and connect those to the inputs on the amplifier. Then connect the remaining speaker wiring going to the doors to the outputs on the amplifier. Add a real subwoofer enclosure / amplifier in the trunk. Use a AudioControl LC2i to tap convert the factory sub amp outputs to inputs for the new sub amp. To get rid of the factory equalization, research on the Ford Fusion Forums on using ForScan software to modify the ACM.

Base system has 11 speakers. Dash and door speakers powered by the ACM. Rear deck subs powered by an external amplifier. There is no HD-Radio. You can purchase a wiring diagram shop manual online for schematics. Power specs are unknown. This forum also has several posts on the base system, if you search.

I see what your saying, but I don't think those shock sensors are for ride height,. Rather they monitor wheel movement (via the control arm) for the active suspension aka CCD (Continuous Controlled Damping). At optimum ride height, the sensor is probably in the middle of it's range of motion. Meaning it can detect equal movements up and down. Assuming the OP's rear springs have settled, a spacer might put the sensor back closer to the factory location. I also assume Lincoln took into account different ride heights due to vehicle payloads when calibrating the system.

Rear springs are known to be difficult to pull, but adding an additional poly isolator isn't going to hurt anything. I wish there was an easier way to lower the front 1/2".

If you pick up a "used" module from a junk yard, it shouldn't need programming.

I believe it helped with the odor. However I haven't driven enough lately, since the install, to verify the catch can still functions properly.

My 2019 MKZ came from the factory with SYNC 3.3. At one time it updated automatically (over the modem) to SYNC 3.4, which resulted in lower audio levels from my Revel system. I hated the loss in volume, thus I found a method to flashed it back to SYNC 3.3. Afterwards I did a master reset and did NOT agree to Lincoln Connect. This prevents Lincoln from auto updating my system. Lincoln must think I'm at SYNC 3.4 because of the for mentioned push. The Sync Map Update I downloaded in Sept 2021 have instructions that state 3.4 is a prerequisite. Digging around in the files, <HB5T-14G386-VHA.tar.gz> that contains another file <HB5T-14G386-VHA.sh> where it checks for MAJOR_MY20=3 MINOR_MY20=4 and exits the update if not met. I have the option of temporarily updating to SYNC 3.4 again for the new maps... but I'm not certain if I can get back to SYNC 3.3 again afterwards. Someone on a MKZ Facebook site indicated Lincoln fixed the audio volume issue, but I can't find any reference anywhere. Another option is to modify the <HB5T-14G386-VHA.sh> file to MAJOR_MY19=3 MINOR_MY19=3 and see if it allows an update. This assumes the 3.4 prerequisite only because of a Lincoln marketing decision, rather than a software structure change. I'm still debating this approach.

Looks like the new 21Q4 MAPs require SYNC Software Version is 3.4 or higher. The last MAPs update I had installed was from 19Q1 for SYNC Software Version is 3.2 or higher. Does this mean no more MAP updates for older systems?

Found a picture of my trunk left side when I was messing with the modem. I'm not sure which one of those other modules is the "trunk module", but see all of those purple ground wires connected at one point? Make sure that one point and any others are getting a good ground connection to the body/frame.