TomV

I've had my car for about 2 months now. Last Friday I washed it after work and while toweling it off noticed 3 of the doors had bumps or blisters on the seam sealer. As far as I can tell this seam sealer is applied to the door seams after it's primed but before it's painted. Since the car is so new, I don't think it's rust yet... at least I sure hope it's not. I'm leaning towards possible air bubbles or bad batch of sealer. Also it was our first cold day under 40 degrees in Ohio, perhaps expansion/contraction of the steel door skin vs. the sealer. I'd estimate 5 to 6 bumps per each of the 3 doors. They didn't crack the paint, but I know they weren't there before. I'll try to get a picture posted here soon and may consult the dealer. Perhaps they can grind one down to investigate what's going on underneath and then touch it up. It's got me feeling very uneasy about how long this vehicle is going to last. Anyone else ever notice this?

I've had my car a couple months now and I've been trying to track down a noise. When I first approach the car, and sometimes when I lock it back up, and the engine is off I hear a noise under the hood towards the front end. It sort of sounds like something plastic has dropped or fallen. I'm thinking it could be something motorized like the adaptive head lamps or the active grill shutters? I've looked in the grill, but have never actually seen the shutters closed before. So I don't even know if they are working. I might need to examine that the shutter motor is mounted correctly. Has anyone else ever noticed this type of noise noise?

My 2019 MKZ seems newer with Sync 3.3 software at Build 19052 after this recent update.

I heard a rattle the other day from mine. Going slow over rough surfaces... sounded like something was rubbing due to chassis flex or as if the door wasn't full closed. I took a quick look, but didn't see anything either. I'll keep an eye on it.

I tried one on the rear and fit is pretty good. The new wheel/tire combo is also 6 lbs. lighter than the factory. I don't think my old scale is super accurate, but I measured 45 lbs. compared to 51 lbs. I plan on installing them sometime in December and will take another picture.

Well, I finally made my decision and went with the narrower wheels, because of Lincoln's stock 55mm offset. I chose MSW TYPE 86 GUNMETAL 18 X 7.5 with a 45mm offset. This way the backspacing difference is only around .13" or so and won't stick out too much. For tires I went with 225/50R-18 MICHELIN X-ICE XI3 XL I'm going to try test fitting them this weekend and will post the results whether they are a good fit or not.

Does anyone know why Lincoln put small plastic guards/shields over the drainage slots on the bottom of the doors? While cleaning mine and drying with a towel, a few of them popped off, so I remove all of them for now. I'm not sure if these are just for "extra shipping protection" to prevent bugs and debris from getting inside the door or if they should be kept in place.

I installed also. Stretching it on some areas is the hardest part I also cut the lower bumper into two pieces and joined them in the middle. It's not perfect... but pretty good for the basic kit costing $339 from carprotectionpros.com and only I notice any defects. Once the film gets beat up enough, you can always peal it off and redo it. I might redo mine in 4-5 years, rather than just pulling it off at the end of 10 years like my old car.

https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/brakes-and-brake-components/ford-fusion-electronic-parking-brake-service-mode-procedure/

My Lincoln also has 245/40R19 - 26.7" diameter factory tires on it now and I'm also planning on 18" snow wheels/tires. Probably going with a 18x8" wide rim, thus looking for snows in the 3 possible sizes: 245/45R18 26.7" <-- factory dia. but sorta wide for snow 235/45R18 26.3" <-- 1/2" lower 225/50R18 26.9" <-- best choice for snow, but MKZ is a heavy car Narrower tires are actually better in snow, but I'm worried the 225 will be a bit narrow on an 8" rim. Billm, How wide are your rims? Do you have any pictures?

Thanks guys! I was checking body panels with a magnet and it didn't stick to the front fenders. Yes, I will installing the 3M myself. I ordered a pre-cut kit online (approx $340) and it installs similarly to Window Tint. Alcohol and Soapy solutions and squeegee. I did my Fusion and wife's Escape. I'm not a PRO, but they seem to turn out good enough that no one has ever noticed anything wrong. The kits usually come with direction and there are videos online.

I had Invisible Mask on my 2009 Ford Fusion for 10 years, and just recently removed it to ready the car for resale. My commute is mainly highway driving and often it's like a meteor shower of rocks from trucks and construction equipment being transported. My old film pulled off relatively easy and the paint finish underneath was beautiful! Where ever it covered... looked brand new when I was done. Other areas looked sand blasted in comparison. It even kept the headlights from yellowing. Now some stone hits were severe enough to bust through it, but for the most part it definitely did it's job for me. This weekend I will be applying it on my new MKZ.

The rust starts from the INSIDE of the door. Gravity causes moisture, dirt, salt, etc. to collects there and bubble out. If Ford/Lincoln would coat the Steel, before they stamped and folded it together, it would last a lot longer. From what I can tell on my last car, all folded metal seems are bare metal underneath. The paint/corrosion coatings don't penetrate into the seams. If you could pour or spray some sort of rust converting agent into the inner door frame, it might work it's way down and hopefully stop or slow the rust process.

Just wanted to share the procedure I used to finally get my Lincoln HomeLink transmitter to work with my old 2002 LiftMaster garage door opener. Both the Owners Manual and Lincoln Online video appeared simple, but it was actually a two step process. 1). First I got a ladder and unplugged the garage door opener, so I would train the Lincolns transmitter with my original and not have the door go crazy. Pressing both transmitters a few inches apart the red LED on the Lincoln began to blink fast. 2). Then I got on the ladder and plugged the garage door opener back into the ceiling outlet. I then pressed the learning button on the LiftMaster opener. I went to the car and pressed the newly trained button and the LiftMaster opener blinked it's light as it learned the Lincoln transmitter. Sounds fairly simple, but step 1 wasn't needed at all with my wife's 2010 Ford Escape.

Hello everyone! I just purchased a new magnetic gray 2019 MKZ Reserve I with the 2.0T FWD. I hang onto my cars for about 10 yrs, having come from a 2000 Contour SVT and a 2009 Fusion SEL. This Lincoln seems to be a much more substantial vehicle than my prior. Larger in size, but feels solid with so many features. Hopefully I don't spend the next 10 yrs troubleshooting issues... but whatever I do I'll post here for reference and hopefully help others. A few things I noticed about the Lincoln that weren't documented in the literature. - Aluminum hood - Aluminum front fenders - Active grill shutters - Asymmetrical lower grill valance I've already installed STEEDA jacking rails and strut tower brace designed for the Fusions. The jacking rails bolted on easy. The strut tower brace required moving the hood strut rod as detailed my someone on the STEEDA website in the reviews section. I also have a 3M Invisible Mask kit to install and will pick up some winter wheels/tires later this fall. Thanks for the add to this forum! - Tom V.