TomV

Rear is easy, I put the jack under the spring of the rear control arm. My low profile floor jacks have polyurethane pads. I also have Steeda jacking rails for the front. Wish they extended further forward, but they do the job. Recently I picked up an Eastwood Detachable Car Ramp Set for oil changes and it works great for that!

Entire headlight from what I keep reading... but maybe you can try some troubleshooting by examining the connectors and grounds.

Lincoln Nautilus speakers look like it had a Revel system. Those will work and take more power than your factory speakers, but might not play as loud with the factory amp.

I'm not as familiar with the base system, as I am the Revels. However, I recall the factory head unit being non-HD radio and it powers the main speakers. There is a separate amplifier for the 6x9s in the rear deck. I don't believe anyone manufactures a wiring adapter to the speaker wires, so if you add external amplifiers someone is going to have to cut the wires coming out of the head unit and/or amplifier and feed them into high level inputs on the aftermarket amp. Then tie in new wires from the aftermarket amp to the speakers. I'd recommend getting some quotes from trusted audio shops in your area to see what type of labor charges are involved and perhaps they have done these systems before or have other solutions. Good Luck.

You may need to disconnect your factory 6X9 subwoofer, because the subs in the trunk will distort it. I have a sealed subwoofer firing up from under the rear package shelf, between the 6x9 factory subs, so I was able to keep them hooked up.

Update, I finally got tired of the oil smell and yanked the can. I put a new factory PCV plate that comes with the plastic hose. While removing the can, I noticed the carbon buildup on the valves looked a little worse than I remembered, so I'm not sure the can was even working that well to begin with.

Connecting to the factory 6x9 subs works perfectly fine in my car and I don't get any cut out and can run full volume. Now I left my 6x9's hooked up, perhaps your factory amp is going into a protection mode because of no load on the factory subs? Also, depending on the size and where you connected your aftermarket amplifier, perhaps your starving the factory amp of voltage/current.

Oil inside cylinder 2 could be from a junked up intake valve. Not sure if the 2014 is GDI, but I suspect it is and that is a unfortunate side effect when fuel doesn't come down the port. It's pretty easy to pull the intake manifold aside and visually inspect the valves. It only takes me 10 minutes to inspect mine. Perhaps find a mechanic to try that first to see if the root cause can be located before you spend a lot of money.

Time to buy some degreaser at your local autoparts store and clean it up. Then perhaps you'll be able to determine where its coming from when it starts to leak again.

If you pull the passenger side panel in the trunk, you can verify the connections to the ACM and amplifier are secure.

Unsure of the type of repair you were in for, but perhaps they just left something unplugged. If you have Forscan software you could check that all modules are communicating. Particularly the ACM and the APIM. If not, I had post that described using the bezel diagnostics. Bezel Diagnostics

This is an interesting topic! I usually drive in "comfort" mode and use the S button for "sport" engine and suspension when needed. So I tried "normal" mode for suspension on my long highway commute to work and noticed slightly better mileage. I'll have to try this mode a bit longer to see if it's reality or not. If "normal" mode yields better mileage, I suspect it could be from less wind resistance with less bouncing up and down at speed. Stiffer suspension might also provide more torque applied from chassis to ground, that otherwise could be wasted in compliance. Just my thoughts...

https://lljcustoms.com/products/select-ford-lincoln-2021-2025-anc-bypass you might contact this guy to see if he has a bypass cable.

I disabled the ANC in the DSP module and I think that did the trick. My engine definitely sounds more "4 bangerish" now. Not sure that I like this sound in a bigger car. I may re-enable it after a few more test drives.

I meant the slider background color in 3.4 wouldn’t be gold.