CDW6212R

Thanks, I'm slowly learning the details. I spent about an hour at the dealer yesterday and ended up looking at three cars. I wanted to see the interiors in person, and they didn't have many on that lot(big dealer with two large lots for just the new Ford and Lincolns). The trip was almost a waste(the five minutes at the cars was helpful), they told me they only saw 2 AWD 3.0's in their system, of all the dealers. That was the last thing they told me, before that it was that they couldn't find the existence of the one wheel I liked, on a 2020 MKZ. I knew I had seen tons of them online, I went there with the worry of colors, and what the interiors looked like, how they differed. At home I saw tons of AWD V6 in the country, plus the good wheel on all models still. I just need to find one with a color I can live with, and a light colored interior(no all black versions). I like a new 2020 Iced Mocha MKZ I saw in FL, but a brand new car isn't what I had in mind. I'll watch for the Revel 14 and 20 door panels in my hunting. It sounds like the 14 speaker system will get me going if I have to settle.

I've decided to retire this year since the whole world has discovered online buying, and the shipping. It's hell at the PO to work now, the street time is up at least an hour, and they moved our starting times back 90 minutes each day. So I'm out as soon as I can do the paperwork. Hunting an MKZ seriously is starting slow. I see very few cars that have colors I like, and the options people seem to order, are not my typical Lincoln stuff. I like to buy them with a few years on them, high options and just find it in great shape. My Mark VII's have been very good to own. I don't like black or white for outside paint, or a black interior, so why are most made that way? Of what's left, I see very few AWD 3.0's, in any 2019 or 2020. I was wanting a 2017 given my four year habit, but the Driver's package mandates a black interior, unless it's a Black Label model. I was happy to see the 2019 gets the torque vectoring standard, but the color choices and wheels are worse than the prior 2017/18's. The closest I've come to liking one is a new 2020 with Iced Mocha paint. It has the main options I'd like, the Elements and Luxury packages, plus the one wheel I like(came on all prior Driver's Package models(a curved spoked wheel)). The price, oh just $20k more than I had in mind.?

Interesting to read of upgrades, I like the ideas. I'm starting to hunt an MKZ harder now that I have my trade in close to ready. I've learned how different the models are, and the 17-20's are my preference. In the 2017-20, can you tell by the front door panels, which have the 14 speaker Revel system, versus the 20 speakers? It's tiresome reading lots of descriptions full of standard equipment words, only about 5% of what's written relate to optional features. I've narrowed my hunt to a 2019 preferably, the V6's now have the torque vectoring built into them(optional in 2017/18). The Elements and Luxury packages seem to cover what I'd like, and I don't think those relate to the radio at all. I'm not thrilled with the color choices available, and most are white or black, and half have black interiors. The best I've found is a new 2020 in FL, an Iced Mocha paint and the two packages mentioned, plus three speakers on each front door.

The onboard mileage displays are all very inaccurate, likely every manufacturer's too. The older systems were rudimentary and used basic calculations from the fuel tank level sensor, and built in MPG factors. I've owned many older Ford's with those, and typically the overall MPG displays are at least 10% optimistic. If it says 19mpg for example, then actual fill up data will be 17-18mpg or less. The newer MPG systems adjust their calculations based on your prior driving habits. If you drive with a heavy foot a good bit, right before a fill up, then expect the range figure to be much lower, than if you say are on a trip cruising for hours at a time. The system is trying to predict what your range will be, based on how the car has been driven recently. So it's always going to be very inaccurate unless you drive absolutely the same constantly, and nobody does that. But it's their attempt to be as accurate as possible. I'm glad they try, but there is a better way, give the driver the option to input usage data, a MPG factor. That's beyond what any maker has done, so don't expect that either. Regards,

Curious, what do you know about the AWD Mustang I heard about at work? A coworker told me that a friend's dad ordered a new Mustang that's electric and AWD. I know nothing of the car and had not heard of such a thing until last week. I don't like the idea of the electric motor in a Mustang, unless it's a hybrid(back up engine). It sounds interesting, electric motors are great for torque, and economy in small amounts.

Very nice. I saw one very similar to that recently in a dealer's ad. That's about what I'm hunting for, I just haven't got the time to get my trade in ready to go yet. Enjoy that a lot.

How is the 6F55 related to the other six speed's that Ford makes, the 6R60 and 6R80 trans? I read great things about the 6R80, but that was in the newer Mustangs, retrofitting etc.

Interesting. I have a spare sunroof from my first 91 LSC SE. I might try to find out what light does get through it before spending the time to install a solar panel under one.

Ooh, they've mixed the 3.0T engine with the hybrid motor, 630lbft of torque, very cool. I like to hear that there is space in the vehicle for that, I doubt it's as easy to do in a car. Maybe a two-seater Mustang special model, that would be interesting.

Interesting, so it's the new cars too. My Lincoln Mark VII's have all been tough on batteries if the car isn't driven regularly. I've found an idea that can keep up with the drain, if there is a solar panel sized close to the sunroof inside perimeter. I haven't found one I like yet that fits, I want one 28"x13" I believe it is, to fit the clear glass surface. I have a controller that if it will make 30-40watts, that will maintain a battery that has normal current draw on it while unused. We'll see, I haven't made time to ask around of the sellers of flexible solar panels.

That is interesting. I like the thought of a performance hybrid, but whether that can be done is questionable, given the tight space of a sedan. I'd be happy with anything similar to the current MKZ 3.0T, if it looked no worse. I love back end still, and performance wise only the FWD bothers me. I wonder if the AWD system is a sensing type using an electrical signal to engage the rear drive? In the first A4WD Fords, that meant an electromagnetic clutch, which can be triggered additionally by an add on switch etc. If so, I'd want to force AWD any time I intend to hit the gas, before hitting the gas. That should be built in, but Ford is known for not seeing well, what needs to be done.

That's a cool idea, the leaf blower for drying. I've got a C3 blower I prefer over the gas powered one. I'll try that next time I wash my nice cars. I've got a $15 a month anytime deal at the local Zips car wash, for my daily driver work truck. So I haven't washed anything since last Summer, it's time to.

I just read of a new 7.3 liter engine Ford is developing. I hear it'll be an F150 engine choice but will fit a Mustang. It's evidently going to be a pushrod V8, sounds like a step back to the traditional smaller SBF size, with modern variable valve timing etc. That's what the Chevy LS engines are now, modern SBC's with new tech, plus heads patterned after the old Cleveland heads, which dominate NASCAR, since 1975. Maybe that new Ford engine might be a Mustang choice, we should know in a couple of years.

Good planning. Take good care of the spare armrest too, keep it treated with a leather preservative etc. I had my old one saved from my 91 LSC SE, but in the garage and not treated since my wreck in 1997. The leather is pretty hard and rough compared to when I removed it in 1998. Untreated even nice leather will go bad, stored away out of the weather.

Fuel is not as good during the Winter, and the changing of blends with an unlucky fill up(tank with old gas) can make any car run poorly for a while. Try to find stations which sell real gas, no alcohol gas. I don't need premium for my cars right now, but I have a station close that has real gas for 5 cents less than their premium with alcohol. They source the real gas from a different vendor, and the prices are unrelated. I'd buy the premium if the engine is made to take advantage of it, but it's a waste if it's not.

Each 10mm gain in section width is right at about 1/2" in diameter gain. The profile factor(the series(40)), it's worth about 1" per step. So the 255/40/19 is about 1/2" taller than the stock 245/40/19 tires.

Thanks for the link to the main description of the TSB, that helps. Curious too, do you know if the correction was a new head design etc, or an assembly repair or change?

Good trade then Scott, you found the one that fit the goals. I still wonder about the 3.0 engine TSB, if it's every 2017 or just some. I found two 17's south of me with plenty of miles on them, I'm not ready to contact anyone to ask how the TSB could work for a used purchase, I still have lots of estate work to do, and my work vehicle rebuild. I know more about what to look for now, thanks to you guys here for the details of the driver's package etc.

Well thanks, that explains it, though that is dumb. But I'm used to Ford doing such dumb things, so it isn't a surprise. I have a 92 Mark VII that I'm slowly working on, and a few years back I discovered the left door trim has a space for a memory seat switch to bolt into. I have the switch for it now, a NOS part that came on Continentals of the same chassis. They obviously never made a Mark VII with a memory seat, but the feature was on some Continentals. So I'll fix that oversight along the way when I do some rewiring. That's a relatively easy modification. The newer cars have way too many integrated electrical parts and systems to retrofit anything after purchase. You basically have to live with what it comes with.

Welcome and congrats on the trade, I hope you love the car for a long time. I'm still surfing the internet occasionally for a blue AWD TT. I haven't yet seen one with the Driver's Package and a white interior, except one used 2017 in GA recently. What does that Driver's Package do in fine details mechanically etc? I have not driven one yet, just read and heard the few reviews by others online. I have a black label 2018 here locally that my dealer wants me to come try out. It has everything but that package of course. I might have to decide between the more common versions without the package. Very few cars people chose to pay for that, given the number of chrome grilles I have seen.

I also prefer to buy my cars with a few years and 60-100k in them. I had been aiming for a 2017/18 MKZ since they were revealed, but after about the four year old mark. That's not far off, but I'm getting older and this could be my last car. I've been searching around for a high optioned reserve, in blue with white interior, and the 3.0 AWD. Those are very rare I see from what's available. My local dealer has a 2018 black label, but it doesn't have the Driver's Package. I'd like to go see it closely, but I'm not in a rush at all, so much other stuff to do at home.

The difference in transmissions like that is typically the output shaft and tail housing, which are interchangeable. In this drivetrain layout, I doubt it's that simple though. You should not want to do away with the rear drive. But someone should be able to tell you if that FWD trans can be used to rebuild your AWD trans. The big issue is the damage caused by driving any automatic after it malfunctions. People all seem to keep driving until the car won't go any longer. That extra distance driven after the first symptom, is why most rebuilt transmissions don't last as long. The worst damage is not from the initial problem/cause, it's from the excess heat and contamination by driving it with a symptom. When ever an automatic car stops shifting properly, stop driving it immediately, get it to a safe place very quickly, and fix it then. If the old trans is actually burned up inside in any way, using parts from a different trans is wise. The valve body and all the tiny components inside are fragile, any debris in the fluid creates excessive wear of those parts, which is not visible to most rebuilders. They just clean out the material, and put it back together, hoping there's no damage to the small parts. If it shifts "okay" when they test drive it, they consider that a successful rebuild.

Measure the space available behind the tray, to be sure the battery you have is going to fit. Then remove the tray, it looks like those three bolts should let it come out. Then you can work on the tray much easier out of the car, and clean it well too, plus your hands from handling it. Most plastics can be cut easily with rotary tools, but it melts a little as it goes. So trim it roughly near where you want it, and use either a rotary bit/tool to smooth the edges, or a file(much slower).

Interesting. My list of wanted options is growing.

That's good stuff to know, I'm just beginning to browse details about the 17+ MKZ's. I like to see the 13.5" rotor size, that means almost any 17" wheel can fit. Up to the .75" size that is, so if you go to a 14" something, you can go to 14.75" and still fit an 18" wheel. Some people do Winter wheels a lot, and using a smaller wheel can save money and difficulty finding wheels/tires. I'm in that boat with my mail trucks, I have custom 12.75" rotors on one truck, so a 16" OEM Limited wheel is great for my snow tires. To hunt bigger calipers, try very hard to stick with all street applications, for a kit caliper etc. Those and OEM calipers all have street piston seals. Race calipers will only have race piston seals, which don't have the outer second seal to keep out more dust etc. I'm got a pair of them on my mail truck, and the Wilwood GN III's I;m going to soon also have race seals. Those have to be more carefully cared for, cleaned more often, keep the seam of the pistons clean and not corroding etc. So far I've done well with the one set, since 2005 with them. Servicing the pads takes longer, an extra 20-30 minutes per caliper to clean them and behind the SS plates which the pads ride against. It's all worth it to me, but many people will not want to deal with such race caliper servicing, so try to stick with street type calipers. Here's one of the 6-pot calipers I have to adapt. These are made for a 1.375" rotor, and have about 5.5sqin or piston area. The .80" thick #7520 pads were what I was after, for longer pad life.