CDW6212R

I have liked the Continentals also for excellent grip in the rain, but they too wear very fast. I have two sets of them now that are about 2/3rds gone with under 15k miles. I'm used to seeing 30k miles or so, as I'm very hard on tires. I have a new set of Continentals for my last 92 Lincoln, price was good and I wanted the best rain performance.

Be careful about following recommendations of OEM for everything without full considerations. Recall that the Explorer had recalled tires from Firestone, those were listed on the door jamb as 24-28ish psi, some low numbers. That was Ford choosing low levels for a better ride, and it caused higher temps in the tires on longer drives. Those tires actually were 35psi tires, on the sidewall printing. Running any tire too low makes more heat, having them a little low on purpose like the Explorer, and time and weather cause them to end up even lower, go on a trip and blow out a tire ... that happened a lot. The wrong goal pressure and normal tire care, pushed those tires over the limit due to expected drops of psi. They did have some kind of inferior tire quality in those tires, but the actual pressure they were set to, was additional trouble. Any vehicle needs different pressures based on the driver and how they drive their car, the tire itself(each tire is different), plus the OEM recommendations. Consider all of those and adjust pressures as needed to obtain the best tire wear, and ride etc. A 35psi tire(the sidewall rating) needs different pressure from a 44psi tire, or a 51psi tire, etc. Always start by being sure the tire in question is rated like the factory tire, if it's a higher rating, it needs more air, and don't mix tires of different ratings. It's a learning curve for each vehicle you own and drive, figuring out what pressures work best for you. I like to start with pressures 5-6psi below the tire rating in the front of my vehicles, and a little less than that in the rear. For a 44psi tire, I tend to start with around 38psi in the front, and 34 or 35psi in the back. My vehicles are typically much heavier in the front, not light sedans with nice weight distribution.

So that may be for adding an aftermarket amp with the Revel system? I'm familiar with older Lincoln's using very complicated wiring to connect the factory HU, amp, and speakers. That typically made it best to bypass the OEM wiring to change components. The newer speaker quality and better HU features make it better to keep those, but I don't know how the newer OEM amps are these days. In the 80's they used to make amps which had almost no distortion(.003% to .005% for Nakamichi amps). Ten years ago not many amps were anywhere close to that, hopefully things have improved.

I'm glad to read that kind of AWD explanation. I'm familiar with the AWD and automatic 4WD of 2nd gen Explorers(95-01), which were the first type Ford made over many other models(before and after). In those, AWD is 100% power split, though literature claims various other figures. Those AWD's have a simple viscous clutch, a sealed internal device with no controls of any type. All the first AWD's do is resist any difference in speed of the two outputs. The VC is driven constantly, and each driveshaft is driven by it. So it's just like a diff, except inside it is made to resist speed differences. Power is split evenly until the VC stops it from changing from that 50/50. With an open front diff, and rears that aren't LS or worn out, in slick conditions one front and one rear tire will spin. Those are easy to get stuck in a flat open muddy field. If the tires change to mismatched diameters, and the AWD resists constantly, which builds heat and eventually destroys the viscous clutch. That's why many many early AWD Fords have bad transfer cases, and/or black fluid, and/or no front driveshaft. People didn't keep the tires matched. In the early A4WD Fords, the front driveshaft is not connected to the rest, it has an electromagnetic clutch inside the transfer case(TC). Those simply send power to that clutch when it senses a difference in speed between the front and back. That's all it does, those are simply an all or nothing 4WD, and selecting 4WD just forces it to engage the electromagnetic clutch constantly. In the newer Fords I gather they are inherently FWD, from what little I've read. I was expecting to discover that they have some kind of electromagnetic clutch that is also controlled based on speed sensors front and rear. I hope it's true that there is some power going to the rear from a stop.

I recall seeing and hearing that the torque vectoring was part of the system that reduces torque steer. That was about three years ago, early in the 2017 run. So what was being said was evidently wrong and from early reporting. Torque steer is a big deal and anything that can reduce it is a big plus.

Interesting. I've only had one rear rotor that I couldn't get off in a short time. I'm fairly sure it was from another car with a slightly smaller hub center hole. I cut it off, using a cut off wheel, making slots between studs, down to the axle. After making five cuts and carefully enlarging them without hurting the studs or axle, then it finally pried off. I compared it to the other side, and it was a little different, several similar year Fords use rotors of similar dimensions(Explorer, Crown Vic). That bad rotor would not go onto the other axle, it was too tight and not corroded badly. Happily that only took about 15 minutes to cut off, just a little tedious. I didn't have a puller, and a rotor should not need a big force to remove it. Always put something on the rear axle flange where the rotor goes on, anti-seize is my choice. Just a little smeared on, not much at , don't spread it around on other parts or your fingers.

That torque steer you have, do you know if that car has the Driver's Package? That one feature has been a sticking point for me as I started to hunt a 3.0 AWD MKZ. The one feature to reduce the torque steer, only came in the Driver's Package, for 2017 and 2018. It was made standard in all 3.0's in 2019 and 20. I was hunting a 2017, but don't want a black interior. The Driver's Package mandates a black interior(includes it), and the cost was $3400. On the black label MKZ's, that Torque Vectoring cost $1400 for their Driver's Package. That didn't affect the interior choice, or the wheels, or the calipers. Those details took me a while and a couple of conversations with a local dealer manager to figure out. Bottom line is, you want the Driver's Package for sure in 2017 and 2018.

Welcome, and enjoy your new toy. Spread the word about how special these car are, going obsolete soon they will be less common as time goes on.

He just needs to buy extra cars, and you too. I have my dad's old 2009 STS now since he died in 2017. It's got maybe 500 more miles on it, then in 2017, so around 34,500 miles the last time I checked. I own about seven cars, 3-4 driveable at a given time.

I'm watching this also to see what others think of those Bridgestone Quiet Track tires. I looked and the best price I saw was $1127 for a set, total.

It's hard to argue with having no issues with new wheels and tires, I'd enjoy that for a long time. For the exhaust sound if you kept the stock mufflers it shouldn't change a lot. Almost all aftermarket mufflers are much louder than all OEM's, so some people opt for an OEM muffler they like(like a GT500), and upgrade the rest. I might do that for an MKZ, I'm less interested in loud mufflers than I was long ago. I keep trying aftermarket types to hunt a tame sound, but they all turn out to be pretty loud. OEM mufflers all have a Helmholtz chamber inside of them, that kills a lot of volume and drone. I wish someone would produce just that special chamber in a resonator, small enough to be possible to add to any car.

Beautiful pictures there, thanks. The car is fast obviously, I think most people would love that any day. The exhaust looks a hair small for the power level, are those 2.25" pipes? The wheels fit wonderfully from what I see, great choice on sizing. With most cars I always wonder if the tires are big enough, or can be larger. The 245mm is not wide, the AAWD is a must for sure. With the car at stock ride height, I would wonder about a 255mm tire, but the stock 8" rim isn't ideal for that. I wonder if it's might be possible with the right wheels like yours, and being lowered a little like that? ANy thoughts on how close your tires are now, to the fenders and inner suspension etc?

Try White Lithium grease in a spray can, I like that for door latches, after using PB Blaster to clean and loosen them up. Lock actuators usually fail after a lot of years, from the latches and linkages getting gummed up, dirty etc. Water will also kill them if it reaches their internals, and that happens easier when the door glass rubber felt/trim cracks and breaks apart. That usually takes 20-25 years though.

Great, I'm sorry for helping. You seem to think that you are the only person reading any of this. I post to help everyone. I aim my posts at a subject or person's post, but you feel free to be offended. This is the USA as far as I'm concerned, I treat people fairly and without worrying that some could be offended. That is what freedom is, it's not the right to never be offended. Regards, Don W

I like the idea of using what you have, we all do that. But I'm familiar with the problems caused by non automotive products used on cars. The home type stuff works okay to begin with, but over time it fails in most cases when used for car needs. Ultra Black is up to about $8 a tube at parts stores now, around $5 is what I've been buying it for from Amazon. I've had very little of it ever dry out, and there's often needs for it in any house if you think of maintenance items. I last used it two weeks ago, for my back door top frame edge, where yellow jackets found a gap. They had gotten behind the wall and I bought and sprayed something made for them. After a month of that not running them away, I grabbed my RTV and sealed the small hole they made, and the other gaps along the top edge of the door frame(trim). They have not come back, and the RTV will last for ages.

It's good to hear you found a solution to the issue of your car. But the roofing tar? Let me introduce you to a car parts store, go to one and ask for Ultra Black RTV. Skip the hardware store for items for a car, throw that tar crap away. Learn about RTV and what it's for. I have used RTV in my three favorite versions, Ultra Black/Copper/Grey, for various needs for car use, plus for my house. It's way better than any caulk or roofing sealant, to prevent from leaks or the sun. Plus the RTV doesn't get hard and brittle after many years. I've got some on my chimney in a couple of places, to seal cables to a satellite dish through the flashing, and the chimney top cement surface(filling cracks). The Ultra Black RTV is still there and pliable, after 15-20 years. If you need more than one small tube of Ultra Black etc, go to Amazon, it's usually $1-3 less for each, than local stores.

Each key fob has a unique code programmed into it. If anyone copies the code to make a new fob, that's what is called cloning a key. That kind of key is not unique compared to the other key fob it's a copy of. The car will only see those as the same key, so they only count as one key, for any of the processes to program other keys or retrieve the keypad code etc.

Props on your choice also, those wheels work well for your red car. I've watched for an MKZ that will fit my wants, and many don't turn up with the one stock wheel I like. Your old factory wheels are the ones I'd prefer, have you got a need for them now or later? I might end up with one that has different wheels, and I'd look around to see if those you have could be found.

You should love those Blizzaks. I loved both of the two sets I've bought, one I sold to a friend/customer when I decided to change tire size slightly. Real snow tires like those will not last as long on non snow covered roads. I had my last set for over ten years, just using them during the snow days, or a week a couple times a year. This past February I put them on because they were so old. They looked like about 90% tread then, but it took about four months to wear them out(I'm a mail carrier so that's about half the life I could get from a normal 90% tread tire). Snow tires stick really well all of the time, you will appreciate the better traction in the rain or wet, and braking will improve in non dry conditions.

I have that hat, and a white shirt that's similar to that, it has Mark VII on it.

I'd wear it if I had to. The best mask I have seen to talk about for fun, is one a coworker of mine has. He has a large beard and mustache, so he hunted a mask that could cover it comfortably. What he came up with is a large black wrap type mask, it drapes over the front and sides, to the back, and he can pull it down when needed easily. I like it because it looks like the antifa people and their face coverings. I call it the gangster mask, or the protestors mask.

Aftermarket mufflers are all so loud because of the missing feature of all stock mufflers, the Helmholtz chamber. If you want a quieter exhaust, but more airflow, try to find a larger system of parts, and include an OEM muffler. The late Mustang mufflers are very popular to buy and build an exhaust around. Any late model car that you like the sound of could be a good source for a muffler that flows okay and won't be too loud, or drone.

Lincoln's are expensive vehicles, but I like the ratio of how much car you get for the money. Buying a few year old luxury car buys you more features for the money, plus better quality. That usually equates to better reliability, but people forget that the owner has a bunch to do with reliability. A large percentage of all owners think that cars last as long as they can or do, based solely on the maker. Those people think it's okay to never touch a vehicle except to drive it and put gas in it, figuring the magic dash lights will tell them when something needs attention. That's how a used vehicle can be a money pit from the first day of ownership. Countless parts need to be thought of throughout a vehicle's life, service schedules are made to cover most things. But some parts are not on those schedules, and a dealer won't pay attention to those items either. That leaves lots of parts to fail or be discovered some hard way, by the owner. Thus the owner is the one who should be proactive in caring for the car, not the dealer, or any book, manual, or schedule. Those things are all just tools, they're not infallible or always correct. Learn your own car, listen to noises it makes, how it feels, always, when it's new, before/during/after a trip, all the time. When you notice something different, that's the time to wonder what it is, and do something about it. This all applies to all vehicles. I've had coworkers to have huge parts failures with their cars(BJ's, TRE's, hoses(coolant/fuel/brakes etc)). That sounds bad, and it is. But what is terrible about that is, that my coworkers are rural mail carriers. I am also, and we are responsible for our own vehicles, all costs and maintenance. I take care of my vehicles well, but when a car has a ball joint fail and the suspension comes apart, was that the parts fault, or the maintenance schedule, or the mechanic the owner uses(or a dealer). I suggest the owner(driver) is at fault, you must pay attention and have a clue how old parts are. If you don't know how old a wear part is, then it should be replaced very soon. So check out any used car well, pay for an inspection if you think it may have issues. Then obtain whatever service records you can about the vehicle. Look at a service schedule to see what should already be taken care of, and what will be needed soon. Then make your own book of records, and write everything down in that book. That book becomes invaluable for any future service, and to see what is or isn't needed when you wonder about something. I use the small spiral notebooks that are about 2x3", they fit easily in any glovebox, and I write fuel fill ups in it too. I can track all service work with it, quickly, without a dealer etc. Your biggest enemy is prior owners who didn't take proper care of your car when they had it, not the manufacturer or the car itself. Don't skimp on maintenance.

I see a 2018 Black Label MKZ in Texas near Dallas. It's close to what I'd like, the red paint is one of a few I could live with, and it has the Chalet(white) interior. The wheels are standard for the BL, but the car is 900 miles away. It's a better choice than what I have been finding, the BL may be the route to go if I can find the right one. My local dealer had a 2018 they sold about a year ago, that one had the nice blue I liked the most, and the Chalet insides. I didn't know then that the Driver's Package as a BL option, only $2400 versus $3400 on other 3.0's. That might have been the right car for me, but I wasn't ready back then.

Thanks. The 2017/18 models did have the black interior(striped) tied with the Driver's package, but it wasn't tied to the 3.0 engine. That's why I don't want a 2017 or 18, it would have to have the black interior. In 2019 and 2020 the AWD 3.0 includes the torque vectoring feature, and interiors aren't restricted to a package like that discontinued DP thing. I'll keep looking, these cars are not very old to turn up in huge numbers right now.