rubyinla

Any updates ?

KYB's are very good. I've had them on any number of cars. From my Miatas to, most recently, my wife's Ford Flex. They are a quality brand name and good ride. This is all assuming you don't have the electronically controlled ones.

With the hybrid I've got a really tiny battery. A little over 2 months old now. Drove it yesterday. This morning it's sitting at 12.03 volts.

hehe... yup, to say the least. Ignorance of a system and a lack of resources, leads to all sorts of internet ideas. And, the service writers are probably some of the worst sources of information on the planet. For the last week voltages seem to slide between 12.2v and 11.9v while it's waiting in the stable. ? Probably about time to stop worrying about it. We've now got 3 cars and drive, maybe, 12k a year. Somethings gotta leave the barn and it isn't "our" new toy. Just added a 2005 Thunderbird. Sort of blows mpg out the window ? but the V8 rumble is worth it !!

Curious observation... So I've been coming back to the car, after not having started it for a few days, and finding the battery at 11.9 / 11.8. Trying to figure out if this is "normal" in the hybrid. A few days ago I got the "System Off to Save Battery" sign on the sync screen. The trunk works normal, trunk light isn't on and nothing is in the accessory plug.

Took it to the dealer for an "exam". They ended up resetting the BMS after finding "a lot of low battery codes stored in the computers which were cleared out and didn't come back." One thing that I noticed driving around town and on the freeway is the hybrid battery is being used more often now. Previously, never really saw it come on when climbing onto the freeway or helping out / taking over at freeway speeds. This might be part of the reason I had noticed a decrease in MPG. We'll see how it goes.

Went out to the car (hybrid) yesterday and it was dark. As in 3.75 volts. On the 24th I put in the brand new battery and did the flash the headlights to reset the BMS. Last drove it around on 10-23 and it's been sitting since then. Four days. It has sat for longer periods of time previously so I'm not worried about some dark current. Had my Genius 750 charger on it for 18 hours and it's still not charged. Reading around 5 volts charging from the engine bay jumper points. Hopefully the CPO warranty covers some of this.

old thread, but I thought I'd mention, to those that don't have a tire pressure read-out it may be time to check your tires air pressure. The 100* plus days of summer have finally passed and our frigid 60*'s have arrived ? I randomly decided to check my tire pressures, last checked last summer, and they were all at 28psi, down from 35psi. No wonder my mpg has gone down. That 40* temp change certainly effected the 19" tires.

Thanks... That's what I was thinking. Earlier comment about connecting to they hybrid battery in the trunk didn't seem right. That's where I connected my charger while I had the battery out during the battery swap to the new one. Figured it would probably keep any computer setting so the whole thing didn't have to start re-learning.

Holy Cow... 40k miles is absurd. So is the repair price. ? Local Lincoln dealer shop rate is either $210 or $240 an hour. Forgot which, but sort of irrelevant to me when it went over $80. haha 3 Mustangs, 2 Explorers, Flex, Cougar (forced on me) and never a problem like that. Yellow '67 Mustang convertible bought in flight school in 1969. Sold during the arab oil embargo and bought a Toyota Carola, with the big engine & a/c for $2600. Seemed like a good idea at the time ?

I know this has been a while, but I'm trying to figure out if the owner's manual, that shows a Positive and Negative connection under the hood can be used for charging. My manual, on page 257 & 258 show how to jump the vehicle. Is there a difference between connecting the charger or jumper cables to the battery vs the battery prongs under the hood?

Holy cow... $1150!! https://www.silverstatefordparts.com/search?search_str=Headlight&ptid=2796 If I got the model right, they're a lot cheaper, "pre-owned" from Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_nkw=2017+lincoln+mkz+headlight&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=Headlamp+Assembly+-+Ford+%28HP5Z-13008-K%29&_osacat=0

I think you may have missed my comment that this battery is for the HYBRID, not a 3.0 V6. It's a whole different deal electrical system. There is no alternator for starters (pardon the pun). This is the Ford battery from the Ford dealer. It is the only one that fits the space. 760 CCA just aren't needed for it. Also, the substandard battery lasted 6 years and 53,000 miles, so it did ok. As above, ymmv :)

I watched his videos. He had a couple, mostly relating to Fords. His 5 flash routine is what I did. I also added his link in my post, which, for some unknown reason, is not available anymore according to youtube. Most of these service advisors have no clue what's going on. Every day is brand new and just more paper. Unfortunately they guard the gate to the mechanics, so there's little choice. Just trying to pass on what I have been told and seen. Obviously, ymmv ?

I replaced my battery yesterday with the FoMoCo battery BXT-99RT4A for $150. It's only 8" across vs the 11" for the H6 (48) AGM. It's only got 390 CCA, compared to the 760 from the H6 battery. The BXT is for the Hybrid. Costco couldn't even find a cross reference for it. I asked the service writer at the Ford dealer about the BMI and resetting it with a Scan tool. He said there was not necessary for cars built before 2020 or 2021. I put a trickle charger on while I was replacing the battery, just in case the war stories were correct that we'd lose radio settings, idle settings and so on. That seems to have worked, but can't tell if it was necessary or not. Next did the 5 head light flashes and 3 brake pushes. Within a couple of seconds after that I heard mechanical sounds from the engine bay. Not sure if it was just the brakes or something else. No indications on the dash, as we don't have the 12 volt battery warning.