Slee_Stack

I bought the tune from Unleashed Tuning. Ultimately, max HP and torque is increased to around 270HP and 310 Nm torque (with 93 octane at the engine). Top speed limiter is also removed but I wouldn't ever test that out. The transmission is modified with the tune as well. Shifts can be VERY firm, particularly in Sport mode. Supposedly that's better on the transmission and some people prefer the feel. You can adjust the shift pressure for each gear change to your liking with the programmer though. I've dialed mine back closer to a stock feel. It hasn't fixed the generally crummy 2nd-3rd shift the MKZ 6F35 is known for though. You can get it a little better, but its still there under the right conditions.

I'm not sure you'll find many who prefer Sync 2, but if you aren't much of a smartphone user, the appeal of Sync 3 is lesser. Its still a far superior interface (you won't find a single review that says otherwise) and its available with regular Navigation built-in. Incidentally, google maps uses very little data so it wouldn't drain a limited plan anyway. Media streaming (or offline downloading) is what kills a data plan. Sync 3 has vastly improved screen responsiveness. Sync 2 lag was very frustrating to me. I never really knew what level the heated or cooled seats would turn on to...or if they would even turn on at all. You really have to press intently on the Sync 2 screen to make it respond. A second or two later you'll know if you were successful. Arrgh! The newer screen collects less oil/smears too. As to the 2.0T....mine is actually faster than the 3.7 and averages 26+ mpg. Admittedly, that's with a +30-40 HP tune and AWD. Its not easy (or cheap) to get extra power out of the 3.7. The 3.0T is another story....that thing's a monster. Longevity of a tweaked 2.0T could be a concern, but seeing as my 2015 just turned 50k, I'm not too worried about it needing to last to 200k. I highly doubt Lincoln spent money to change seats, tracks, or the steering column on a final model year vehicle. Perhaps your loaner had some issues. In the end, its cool that you like your car better than a newer one. I probably wouldn't buy a newer one just to get features either. However, I'm more than happy to tweak whatever I already have to make it nicer. Its why I have a tune, Sync 3 and an updated FCIM in my 2015. For $1k all-in, they are seriously nice upgrades. Granted I'm also HOURS in since I did all the labor myself. I love Android Auto mainly for Google Maps with its real time traffic and re-route options. Built-in Nav is just terrible about that...even if you pay extra for SiriusXM traffic.

I'm pretty sure my checklist was pencil-whipped, but at the time I purchased, I was more interested in getting a CPO for the lower finance rate. I'll be out of CPO warranty in July.

Yes the old FCIM sliders and touch buttons work fine with a Sync 3 APIM. That's how my 2015 MKZ is setup at the moment. I do want to upgrade to the newer FCIM. The non-touch is more ergonomic. Also, the old hub works perfectly with Android Auto (bottom USB port only). It supposedly has slow charge (0.5a) vs 1.0A on newer ones. The old hub doesn't have an apple chip which is what causes the 'USB hub' error on start-up. Obviously, the old hub won't work with Apple Carplay.

$3600 is outright insane. Frankly, I think $1000+ is overpriced. The China price of $600ish is the max you should pay. $500 or (much) less for APIM/screen/hub/adapter is easy to achieve if you buy a used APIM.

If you come through Atlanta, I might be able to assist. I've screwed around with the APIM a bunch. I've also modified other things (DRL, heated SW temp...), but not recently. I wouldn't charge anything, but as to everything Forscan...all risk assumed is on your part. If you know the settings you want uploaded and which module they apply to, it is pretty easy. Worst case, its looking at the spreadsheet reference, so its still pretty easy.

I suggest becoming comfortable with Forscan before doing an upgrade. You will need either a wired or bluetooth OBD dongle. I use an OBDLink MX BT dongle. It works fine on Windows and Android. Used APIMs are relatively cheap and features can be 'added back or deleted' if you get an APIM that came out of a differently equipped vehicle. I went from a Sync 2 Nav APIM to a 2018 MKZ Sync 3.0 non-Nav unit. On a side note, the brackets that came with it fit perfectly to my old style FCIM. After changing the APIM, I had to enable cooled seats, the heated steering wheel, and ambient lighting on the new unit. This was all done with Forscan. If you backed up all your 'as-built' settings before changing the APIM (and you should back-up!), then you just need to let Forscan 're-scan' your car and then you can change the new APIM settings fairly easily. I also updated it to Sync 3.3 via the Cyanlabs tool and a 16gb USB drive. I stopped short of going to Sync 3.4 because I prefer the brown color theme of 3.3 vs the gray one of 3.4. I don't use an Apple so I even still have my original USB hub installed. AA works fine although supposedly the old port only charges at 500ma. Newer ones charge at 1 amp. The new Sync will chastise me occasionally about not have a proper apple-chip equipped USB hub. Its mildly annoying, but dismissable. At some point I'll get a proper hub in. Dang PITA apple products! Even when you don't use one, they still get you... As to costs...if you just do the APIM/Screen swap (no FCIM)...and are OK with learning the (free) Forscan app...you can do it all-in for as low as $250. A wired OBD adapter is <$50 and a new GPS cable ($10) is all you really need. Obviously you have to find a functional APIM...preferably from an MKZ...but there are a lot out there from many junkyards...on ebay...etc.

The pre 2017 bezel controls work perfectly fine with Sync 3. The old style USB hub works with Sync 3 (AA functions via lower USB port) but an error will pop-up on screen at start up (due to not having an Apple chip). Carplay will not function as it requires the Apple chip be present in the hub.