Dino

2013 MKZ AWD, it now has 276,000 on it and runs, drives like it has 50,000. No knocks, pings, leaks, and everything works on it. Doesn't look bad either, I would drive it across the country and not think twice about it. I did recently have to change the water pump, that's a bitch job to do. But it got me inside the motor to give a through inspection and a chance to clean the VVT solenoids and check the timing chain and tensioner, You would never had known the mileage looking at the internals.

Have not been here in a while. But I just did this job, I purchased a second MKZ AWD to drive in the winter months here in NE Ohio. Car has 254,000 miles on it runs and drives like a new car. But the water pump started leaking out the weep hole in the block, so I parked it until I could get around to fixing it. I to was quoted $2500.00 to fix it from a couple shops. So I decided to tackle it myself. The engine does not have to come out, But you have to remove the Intake, valve covers, motor mount, computer, overflow bottle, tire, wheelhouse, just so you can get to the timing cover, a special tool is required to lock the camshafts in place, about 25,00, job took 18 hours of labor and the parts were very reasonable from Tasca Ford. So for a little over $200,00 I fixed it myself

You can run your power cable through the hole that the cable for the hood release passes through. You will have the push the grommet out of the hole then your power wire will pass through the firewall just below the battery. You will have to remove the battery tray to get to it, but that is a simple job.

Mine did the same thing when I purchased the car. Re programming the remotes fixed the issue.

After you drive the Lincoln for a couple of weeks you will never admit that you owned and drove a Prius. Welcome to the better side of truly driving American luxury.

Your going about this all wrong, forget about the wires coming out of the head unit. Get an audio control LC2 and wire it into the rear deck speakers and run a dedicated power wire from the battery. The LC2 will also control the amp remote turn on and the signal processing. Or..... you can go this route... https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21 I have yet to try this but something I ran across

More than likely the title will reflect that it is a salvage car, and some states list the reason why it is salvaged. I know this is the case in Ohio. Texas has been hit with a ton of vehicles that were listed as Flood Damage vehicles due to the big Hurricane, and many cars never even had any damage to them. But because FEMA and the wide spread damage through out the state many folks just cashed in on the disaster relief offered to them just to get a damage claim payout. I purchased one of those vehicle, I contacted the previous owner and asked them about the severity of the damage. She stated that her house had eight inches of water throughout it and the car was in the garage at the time of the storm, she said that the bottom of the tires were the only thing that got wet. But because the government was subsidizing the claims she was told that she could claim the car and it was totaled out by the insurance company and she got a brand new Mercedes to replace her MKZ. She just wanted a new car, and opportunity was knocking at the door. And I bought a mint, 29,000 mile loaded 2014 MKZ for $12,500.00 out the door. With absolutely no flood damage done to it.

Insurance is going to total your car, but you can salvage it. You will have to remove the carpet to get it dry. If you don't it may feel dry on the top side, but it will stay wet for weeks underneath. After you get it dry spray it down with mildew eating enzymes to make sure that it will not start to smell. Looking at those pictures reminded me of something my Father told me. "Son never buy a house that sits lower than the road you live on"

I replace the battery in my 2014 a couple months ago, I went to advanced Auto Parts. The first one I got was for my year model car and it did not have the mounting foot on the bottom for the clamp to hold it in place, it was a 400 CCA battery. After loosing power a couple of times due to the battery moving around and the negative post clamp coming loose I went back and had them replace it with a 2015 model year battery that had the foot and was rated at 600 CCA. The 96R class battery from your local parts store will fit, just make sure it has the mounting foot on it, and get a good one, these cars draw a lot of power even after you shut it off.

I have been using Bar Keepers Friend for a long time, it is the only thing I have found that works for taking off the road film that accumulates on your windshield. The stuff has a very fine abrasive in it that polishes the glass and removes all traces of dirt and oils.

If the car is running they are spinning, even at idle. The exhaust gasses are what spins the impeller. the more gasses the faster it will spin. When the turbo starts to put out more volume than the motor is taking in, then you start getting into boost. In other words the intake system starts to pressurize and the intake charge is force feeding your cylinders. Hence more air, more fuel, equals more power.

The only way to remove the top speed limit is to get an aftermarket tune from a vendor like Livernois motorsport, Cobb ect. But as previously stated these cars have their limits, brakes, tires, suspension, rev limiter being the main factors.

That piece screws onto a stud going through the rear tail panel carpet near the tail light, it holds the cargo net in place if you have one. Should be two on each side of the trunk tail panel area.

It's a hook to holds up the spare tire cover when you need to get into the spare tire well. It hooks to the lip just under the window where the trunk seal is. it holds it up out of the way so you don,t have to remove the cover from the trunk.

Brakes went on without any problems at all, I was some what shocked that the brakes I replaced were at about 90% pad remaining and they were Motorcraft pads and rotors in excellent condition. Yet the stopping power of them was a little bit on the weak side. never really got on them real hard to heat them up to check for fade, but the new brakes stop like a champ. Still waiting for them to bed in real good then I will make 4 or 5 hard brake runs on the highway to heat them up and bed them in properly. t They did dust up the rims pretty good initially, but now they have not left any residue on the wheels after I washed the car and put another 75 miles on it. All I can say at this point is that their is a huge difference in what was on it before, and they are still not making full contact on the front rotors yet.

Yes they are different, like what are on the Fusion, base model MKZ's have a larger rotor and different calipers.

Received my new brake kit from R1 Concepts today. I always felt that the brakes on my MKZ were a little anemic, they stop well but require a little more force then the brakes on my fusion, which in reality are a little bit smaller in size on a comparable car. Plus I like the look of a drilled and slotted rotor. R1 concepts was running a good sale price on the kit through Amazon so I bit the bullet and purchased the kit. First I purchased a kit for a G2 fusion as it was priced just a little over $105.00, a pretty smoking deal. But after doing some research I found out that the Lincoln has a larger brake rotor and pad, so I cancelled that order and found the correct package for $236.00 shipped, this included all four rotors and ceramic low dust performance brake pads. This is the one upgrade that I wanted to do the most on this car, just couldn't find the right deal until last week. Stuff looks to be of pretty good quality, and not from China.

CP-E rear motor mount, is your best bet. You may get a little vibration at idle from it, but it is not really noticeable. Boomba Racing makes one as well, but the CP-E unit is a little bit better unit. It will reduce the amount of torque flex you are getting from the factory mount, but I am not sure that one is being manufactured for the 3.0TT yet. The one for the Ford Fusion Sport 2.7 might work. I would contact them and see if they will give you a special deal if you try and fit one on your car, They gave me a deal on one of their intercoolers to trial fit it because nobody had tried it before. The intercooler fit like it was made for the car. They also gave me special provisions to return the item if it did not work. They are always looking for people to try things so they can expand their selling market.

Automotive touchup paint is what these folks do. I highly recommend them, their stuff is great. https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

One spacer. You will have to move the strut mount forward, you do this by using the rear strut mounts rearward hole mounted to the front stud sticking out of the strut tower. Instead of having two bolts holding it in place you will only have one with a spacer behind it.

You will only be able to use one of the bolts, you have to move the rear bolt hole to the front one and trim the mount a little to make it fit level. You can do it without trimming but the mount will sit at an angle. It will hold in place just fine only using one bolt.

You can modify the stock hood strut mount to work with the strut tower brace. I modified mine when I did mine, takes about 10 minutes and a small 1/4" spacer. But then again my hood strut doesn't have the cool Steeda name on it.

Here are a couple pictures of the audio setup, I wanted to keep it as simple and compact as I could. The sound is nothing short of amazing, Soundstream equipment is some really good stuff, they make quality products for the money. I have been using their amps for quiet a few years. You get the rated power out of their amps. attached is an amp dyno test done on the amp that I purchased. This amp hits hard and draws very little power. Class "D" amps are your best bet for driving subs because of their low power consumption. I would bet that my single 10 and only 650 watts hits as hard, if not harder than your 2600 watt amp and two 12's. In theory you should drive your sub between 100% to 150% of its rated power to make it work the way it should. The Kicker CVR10 that I have is a competition dual voice coil speaker, I am running it at 2 ohm load to extract the power from the amp, and it rocks. I also loaded the LMS tune today, and it definitely is up on power, and my MPG have jumped up a little to between 27 and 30 around town. It was hanging around 24 and 25 before. Shifts are a little firmer and much quicker to go through the gears, turbo lag is next to nothing now. this is on the 87 octane tune. More to come as I load the other tunes and do a comparison.

My original intent was to put in a mono amp for the sub woofer and add a 4 channel amp for the rest of the system. I was going to use an Audio Control LC7 to do this. But after adding the Soundstream PN1.650D nano amp, it is a class"D" 650 watt sub amp I don't think I need the second amp. System sounds really good. I may replace all the other speakers, I have Polk Audio component speakers for all the doors, and may match them for the center channel in the dash. That Soundstream amp is a real power house, gain is turned way down, and it doesn't even get warm cranking it for an hour. And I am running it at 2 ohm. Nice thing about it, the amp has a bass boost knob to adjust the amp output up to an 18db gain. I am somewhat of an audiophile, and have put together some really amazing SQ systems. This one still needs work, but definitely has potential to be a great sounding system. The center channel is a big plus. I highly recommend the Soundstream amp, a lot of punch for the buck. That manual is a wealth of knowledge, especially in a car with about 10 miles of wiring, and countless moduals.

My 2014 does not have this problem, Texas car, now in Ohio, that is not driven in bad weather. Now that I have seen yours and hearing about others with the same issue, I am going to put some seam sealer on mine. I will tape it off and use some black seam sealer I have to give it a nice neat and tidy appearance. I plan on keeping this car for awhile.