PKells

I checked ttps://owner.lincoln.com a few weeks ago and found that the official 3.0 update was available for download. Since 2.3 made Android Auto no longer work for me I wanted to do as clean an upgrade as possible so had been waiting for some nice weekend weather to do the upgrade. Today was finally that day. I did the following: - Did a factory reset of my Galaxy S8 phone and reinstalled apps as needed including Android Auto - In my vehicle 1- Hardware reset of Sync3 by holding down Power button + Track forward button for 6 seconds 2- Master reset of Sync3 through software settings 3- Disconnected Negative battery terminal 4- Removed fuses # 32 (Display) and 33 Radio) 5- Waited appx 5 minutes then put fuses back in & reconnected battery 6- Insert USB and waited the 15 minutes it took for the upgrade to complete. Took close to 5 minutes before the "system upgrade" message even appeared 7- Once I got message upgrade completed successfully I paired the phone to Sync and connected USB cable. Android Auto actually started up. Realize this process was overboard but having not had Android Auto working since January and already having spent a ton of time trying to remedy I didn't want to simply do the upgrade via USB only. The version of Sync3 I show as having now is SYNC3, Software version: 3.0 Build 18025 Navigation Maps Version: NA 1 15 In the limited time I've used so far it works fine and does have a slightly different look to the text and icons.

Has anyone who installed this unofficial 3.0 update used Android Auto? Since getting the official update from 2.0 to 2.3 about a month back Android Auto stopped working entirely on my 17 MKZ. Considering trying this 3.0 update if AA is working for others. Thanks...

Had you updated to Sync3 3.0 using the unofficial update method I've seen posted elsewhere? I recently upgraded to 2.3 from 2.0 and lost Android Auto capabilities. Car was at the dealership for 4 days and they couldn't fix it. Ultimately said it was a bug with 2.3 and AA. I would roll back to 2.0 if I could but dealership says it's not possible. AA was one of the reasons I bought the 17 MKZ so not pleased it stopped working with my S8.

Since updating to 2.3 Android Auto stopped working. Car is currently at dealership and they are trying to resolve. Even stranger can't even disable AA in the Sync settings now. So beware if you use AA and are looking to update the software.

To follow up on how I made out, I eventually found there were 2 issues: 1- The fuse for the OEM Sub Amp in the trunk had blown somehow. Got a new 20 AMP Micro2 fuse and that solved the rear deck 6x9's not working 2- The PAC LP7-2 line out converter I had transferred from my Cadillac ATS was busted. Installed a new AudioControl LC2i and tied it into the rear deck speakers. Now have fully functional system like I was going for....just took longer than expected! :-) Thanks to everyone to helped provide suggestions and feedback!

Curious if anyone has luck with Sync Connected Apps and their phone? The capable apps are detected by Sync, but when choosing as a source nothing happens. I have tried this with Spotify and Sirius XM...with the apps both open and closed on my phone. I realize there are tons of variables here when it comes to phones, but my Sync is on 2.0 and I have a Galaxy S8 phone. To me it's not a big deal it hasn't worked as I prefer Android Auto, but am curious if it has worked for others. If so, what version of sync are you on and what phone do you use?

Does anyone know for certain if the way I have labeled the wires for the WPT-667 OEM factory harness is correct? I am now not getting any audio from the factory 6x9's in the rear deck and wondering what may have happened. Thinking the wires had become loose from my fussing with them so got a whole new WPT-667 wiring kit and connected this new harness to the existing cables exactly how it was before but still no luck. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated!

I only have a single 12" Kicker Sub, attached is a picture of the GM-D8601 amp and line output converter I have. I tried tying in PAC LP7-2 to the wiring harness in the trunk that connects to the factory amp for the 6x9 rear deck "subs". Connected the LP7-2 to the SUB+ and SUB- on this 10-pin harness before it hits the factory amp and when audio plays on head end unit the line output converter recognizes it and powers up, along with the amp, but no audio. Adjusting the output gain on the LP7-2 has no impact. I had this exact same setup in my previous car (Cadillac ATS) and it worked great....so I know the wiring of the LP7-2 and amp is correct. Maybe I should have tied the line output converter after the factory amp, to the speaker wire going to the rear deck subs? Next I'm going to try using a pre-amp line driver in place of the line output converter and see if I have better luck.

To get the power wire through I ended up drilling a new 1/4" hole next to the firewall. I first attempted getting power though the firewall with the existing cables but it was too tight and I got nervous I'd damage an existing wire. Using a step drill bit I was able to drill the access hole and not have to worry about the bit going through too quickly. Now my issue is the subwoofer line that I tapped into isn't working with my line output converter. It recognizes signal and powers up itself and the amp, but no audio from sub. I've ordered a Overdrive Plus line driver which I'll try instead later this week when it arrives. Hoping that solves things for me. Never easy! :-)

I found a diagram online today that shows the battery area, and how it is secured in the tray. Turns out there is a plastic "screw" that also holds the clamp in. This screw was out of sight because it also doubled as a cable tie holder and was below a bundle of cables. I disconnected the air box cover and hose to get a little more room in the area. Then removed the bolts along with this plastic screw was then able to move the battery forward enough to get access to the negative terminal and disconnect it. This then allowed me to connect the new amplifier power safely to the battery. Put everything back together and now I've got power to my new amp in the trunk. Now just to deal with tying it into the existing subwoofer line in the trunk...

I did see that pic in the owners manual for jump starting the car. The reason I'm trying to get to the negative terminal on the battery is to disconnect it, so I can then safely connect the new amplifier power to the positive terminal on the battery. I have already properly grounded the new amp in the trunk where it is installed. From everything I've read connecting power to a battery when the negative is still connected could damage the existing electrical system. I'll try your suggestion of loosening bracket and sliding battery forward. There just seemed to be no room in front of the battery to do this when looking at it. Thanks....

I recently purchased a 2017 MKZ Reserve which came with the 11 speaker non-Revel system. Since the bass is non-existent I'm adding a new amp and 12" sub. Got everything installed but when I went to tie the amp power to the battery I discovered the battery location doesn't allow for access to the negative terminal to disconnect. Owner's manual says to bring to dealership for battery replacement which is crazy. Has anyone else come across this and figured out how to gain access?