Jhilty

looking at the exaust manifold, plug wires, a good example of rather cheap materials on the MKZ and is not something you expect to see on cars costing as much the MKZ does, I am in the process of replacing mine, I cut the OE exaust off with a drimmel, the OE is garbage in my opinion, probably worst I have ever seen.

looking at the exaust manifold, plug wires, a good example of rather cheap materials on the MKZ and is not something you expect to see on cars costing as much the MKZ does, I am in the process of replacing mine, I cut the OE exaust off with a drimmel, the OE is garbage in my opinion, probably worst I have ever seen.

I have had a 14 MKZ 3.7 for aprox. 5 months and I am starting to feel the same about mine. At first I thought it was nicer than the MB I had prior but now I think either one is built to last, trans seems very clunky driving it in town. I had some reservation because of it being made in Hermasillo Mex but my father (86) always wanted a Town Car, more than likely the last car he will ride in and thats a shame, should have bought a 370Z and listened to him complain about not having any room for his walker or groceries, now I feel like im stuck with a "good looking" POS.

I put BD11 20x9 & SDrive 245/35 tires on my 2014 3.7 and the overall height of the wheel is just a bit shorter than the OE 18x8 inch with 245/45 that came on it. It rubs a tiny bit only when turning into a steep driveway, put Nitto 235/35 on the front and it has not rubbed as of yet. Use the wheel calculator on discount tire site as a reference. Take note of the offset range 40-46 on mine. Not sure if this helps as I realize your MKZ is newer, I would have gone with a true forged wheel, DUB or Modular Society these are custom builds and may cost a bit more but worth it over the cast wheels in my opinion.

The fusion has a plug\boot somewhere back there but I gave up on finding mine as well. Behind the glove has one for some wiring but its tight, you can leave the boot out and fish power wire that way if you are careful. Im finding the whole interior to be no so much fun and i have done alot of interior panel work, this is the most difficult to work with. I had a 2015 Benz GLA250 not half as tricky as the MKZ.

Should be a passthru behind battery but i cant find it (fusion has one i know) also there is another one behind glove to the right but getting 4 gauge to run through it is tuff it also has wiring for mkz with it so not alot of room. If you leave plug out you could run 8 gauge but thats all i have found so far. You must be careful because air vents can get jammed moving stuff around back there.

I did not want to have to drill anything but no suprise. How did you install the subwoofer? I will try to post some pics.

Its not hooked up right now but yeah can take a pic. 2 channel cadence amp and sub kinda all in one. You could say its a powered sub. PAC PDL21 digital line output converter, very basic setup. Cant seem to find a pass thru the firewall to run power to battery getting to be a pain in ass, to nice of a car with 8k miles on it to fuk it up jus put 20's on it, looks sick very angry looking. Not sure if i can attach pics here if u want send me ur email jdhilty2100@gmail.com

2014 mkz base. I hooked up a PAC intelligent converter and cadence sub and amp but it did start to smell like the sub was running to hot but i may have the pos and neg crossed but that alone would not burn the sub up. Not much in the way of adjustment with that setup so not sure, it did sound decent. I have never used a line output before.

Integrate line output converter for subwoofer. I have the basic audio setup and wanted a little more bass. Is this not a good idea?

Thanks thats the first description that matches what I have.

Does anyone have available the rear 6x9 speaker wire color diagram for pos. and neg. connections.