crushalot

Thanks for confirming, I didn't even think to look in the order guide. When you have a chance could you try again to post or PM me those illustrations? I was never able to view them. Thanks again.

Frustrating update - The service manager from the second dealership working on this issue told me after talking with Lincoln engineering that they said Lincoln stopped using TED devices to cool the seats! This is questionable to me as they specifically updated the interior buttons to activate the function says AC right on the button. Why would they update the button to include the label AC while dropping the device that actually cools? SM said that on the window stickers they say heated seats and no longer state cooled seats. He wasn't able to tell me when the company made this change. He states that there is no TED in the seats at all any longer. If that was the case how could the bottom instantly cool down 5+ degrees? I call BS. Can anyone confirm that there should be 2 TED's per seat even in the 2020 MY? @drolds1 - When you confirmed that there should be 2 TED's was that for MY 2020? Maybe 2019 models were that last to have the TED's? I just can't believe that all the 2020 MKZ's work like this and essentially heat your back while cooling the bottom. Other members here have confirmed the seats appear to be working and I have had at least one 2020 loaner that was working correctly cooling the seat backs. What else can I do here? Thanks

All, I have been struggling with the cooled seats in my newly acquired 2020 MKZ. The issue is the seat bottoms on both the seats cool just fine but the seat backs do not. In fact when the feature is left on, the seat back temp actually goes up until it is uncomfortable to sit on. I live in the south and use this feature a lot. I have owned 6 different Lincolns over the past decade and never had this issue with any of them. My last MKZ was a 2017 and the feature worked just fine. I have been to 2 different dealers who have serviced the vehicle and both state that the seats are working correctly. I am working with the Lincoln Concierge to get this resolved and that is why I originally created these videos. I wanted to post them here as well to have a few members view them and confirm that this is not the correct functioning of the cooled seats. For anyone who doesn't want to watch them here are the results from testing the seats with a calibrated IR thermometer: Seat bottoms immediately show a cool down of 4 - 7 degrees and consistently operate correctly. The seat backs will initially show a drop of less then 1 degree and then after they have been on for more than 5 minutes, the temp in the seat back air starts to rise. After the cooling feature has been on for 15 minutes the seat backs become uncomfortable and basically blow out 88 - 90 degree air regardless of the outside temp or the ambient cabin temp, all the while the seat bottoms are cooling fine. Driving around in the vehicle for 30 minutes results in seat bottoms blowing our 69 degree air while the seat backs blow out 88+ degree air. This can't be the correct functioning of this feature. The service techs state that the diagnostic data is showing proper cooling in the seat back, but in reality the seat back is getting hotter then when you engaged the feature. They have replaced the blower assembly in the drivers seat but it made no difference what so ever as I did these same tests before going in for service and they showed the exact same results. Can anyone confirm that I am not going crazy and their vehicle is holding a slightly cooled temp on the seat back rather increasing the temp of air blown out the seat backs? Thanks I think the 3rd through 5th videos are most conclusive. https://youtu.be/gBd4KfFkTwA https://youtu.be/J0eZ9767byY https://youtu.be/w9tEx_BwQdM https://youtu.be/5FxtZwqzAgk https://youtu.be/3RXgI8IxtG8 https://youtu.be/t_Y4AHGmOdc

I was thinking of replacing all my wood trim for the carbon fiber pieces but now I may try that trim cover kit. My tint guy can wrap over those pieces but much more $ then the DIY stick on kit. Thanks for posting link.

I think this issue would be noticeable on any models with the brighter aluminum trim. I had a 17 with the carbon fiber trim and my 20 has the dark wood trim. Both have tinted windows and I never noticed it at all. Reflection wise I get more distracted by looking through the front windshield and seeing the top of the dash when it's mid day. The window tint product used will also vary the amount of reflection. For the past 4 cars I have used nothing but Formula One Stratos. In addition to the windows (35 or 40 - My state allows down to 32) I get a 70 or 50 done on the pano roof and some F1 Air put on the front windshield (cuts down that dash reflection). My black Z can sit in the direct sun for hours and I come back to a relatively cool car even with the pano shade open.

Awesome thanks all. Now I have an altogether different issue that is keeping me from enjoying my dream Z. The cooled seats are only blowing cold air on seat bottoms and blowing cabin temp air out of the seat backs. The local Lincoln service says its working fine because they put a bag on it and proved that is is blowing air. According to the service manager the Lincoln master tech said that there could be a 12 degree difference from seat bottom temp and seat back temp, which is bullcrap. Setting that high of a variance just means they don't want service to do the extra labor to fix a definite issue. In a AC cooled garage with ambient cabin temp of 74, the seat bottom blows air of 68 - 69 degrees and the back blows 78 degrees! I showed them the loaner 2020 MKZ that has the feature and clearly blows slightly cooled air out the backs as well but they chalked that up to vehicle variance. As I live in the south, I use this feature all the time and it is important to me. It is odd that it is happening on both seats and so since the original owner in Ohio only used it for 9 months over winter, it's likely they never even tried the AC seats, which means this is a factory/assembly error. Opened a case with the Concierge and hopefully they will force the dealer to open the seats and investigate more thoroughly. Thanks again everyone

Hi all. Back again. I turned my MY17 AWD DP in at lease end in August 2020 due to not needing a second Lincoln (Also have a MY19 Nautilus) during covid. School and work are back so I wanted a car again. After looking around at new types (Liked the Jag XF the best, but no V6 any more) I went back to hunting a 2020 MKZ and found one to my liking a few states north of me. It's a 2020 3.0 AWD with mono package, lux package and pano roof with less than 4000 miles. (finding a 3.0 AWD in 2020 MY is tough right now) When I saw it on the transport I noticed a bit of rust/corrosion on the exhaust system. I know this is common and this vehicle came from Ohio so road salts could have been in play, but should I be concerned or take any corrective action do you think? Thanks

Is the car still available? Thanks

Looks like drivers side led fog light is out? Or is that just the pics? Would the CPO cover that?

Love the look and the mods. Please post here before you decide to sell online/public. I had a 17 Z that was very similar but I turned in because not driving due to covid. Will be looking for a replacement, but probably not until closer to the end of summer.

My 2019 Nautilus has the same. Single press from FOB or door touch only locks and flashes. You have to press again to hear the chirp. Guess they made it default around 2019 for all models. My DD is a 2017 MKZ and when I switch over and drive the Nautilus, I get annoyed when walking away because I don't hear the chirp I it makes me look back every time to confirm its locked.

Why not just use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Elebase-Upgraded-Connector-Chargers-Interface/dp/B07LF72431/ref=psdc_3015402011_t5_B07XYTHCXV

Thanks drolds1 My car was definitely built at that plant during that time but no notice in mail and nothing on my owner page on the Lincoln site about an active recall. A bit odd.

I got the notice for my 2014 Fusion but not for my 17 MKZ. Does anyone know if they ever stated the exact build date range? My 17 MKZ was one of the last batches to roll off the 17 line. It was built in August 2017. I think they re-tooled the line and started assembling 18's in September.

The 2015 would have also come with a SD card for the maps on navigation. My 2014 came with the A4 version so I would expect a A5 version maps SD card for a 2015.

I use that same adapter and it works fine for me as I made some changes in IPC. Try configuring your ForScan connections again and have the toggle in the right mode when first connecting. I thought I remember it tells you when to toggle it for MS.

Just wanted to point out that Darkstar's custom CAI is $50 cheaper and doesn't have to be modified to fit.

I don't think they have a Forscan version for Mac. They don't share identical codes, but it is very minor differences. Those model years do share the same 8" sync 2.0 system and also many IPC elements. I would recommend reading Dan's guide and then read it again, then read/skim through that thread.

Adding Nav to 13 - 15 can be done with a $30 FORSCAN adapter (Plus the cost of a maps SD card): http://lincolnmkzforum.com/topic/2818-list-of-successful-forscanobdlink-mods-on-mkz-credit-to-danmc85-at-2gfusionnet/ He links the main thread over at 2Gfusions: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573 Many people with all different types of ford models have done this for the 13 through the 15's. Requires reading through a lot of posts but it is not hard

The older models had the trunk open button on the top ridge of the license plate frame and you could open it by skillfully touching with your foot. On the 17 they moved the button up so you can use your hand without bending over.

jm98, The batteries used in the key fob are two CR2025 batteries. These are usually available at any Walmart/drug store/electronics store. I have changed many batteries in the FOB over the years and it is easy. The procedure can be found on page 49 of the 2014 manual. Also you know you can start the car without the need for batteries in the FOB. The FOB has an RFID tag in it that if placed correctly in the car will allow it function. You have to pull up the rubber cup holder in the middle console and then you see a little cut out for where the FOB goes. This is on page 140 of the manual. All the best

If it is the same as the Fusion, then it seems the default is 1 hour 15 minutes as you can set it to a few different values with FORScan. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true I would have to pull the bit from FORScan to see what the default for the MKZ is.

It won't brick your system if you put in the wrong code. I tried putting in all kinds of different codes in an attempt to get the climate in IPC but the worse that happens is it removes other options. Simply changing back the values restored everything. Everything you want except climate is doable. Just follow the guide.

Great tip on the GFB diverter valve. What model DV+ did you use? Thanks

Thanks. I got the mirror dip working with only changing 720-02-01 and all is working great with it including remembering the custom down positions. Last night I tried cycling through every hex bit available for the 720-05-01 position xxXx and while i was able to remove items off the cluster none of the changes added climate, so I don't think it's possible.