jmcgliss

Well done. No reason it won't keep going for twice that distance.

Wow, that's not very long for actuators to last. Does the dash have to come out, or just the center stack? For reference, I just went through this with a 2005 Subaru Legacy at 192,000 miles, so concerned that Fords and Lincolns might fail sooner.

Yes, he tried the heat method, but I was not there to see if he also froze the plug. His Torz bit started to twist and that's when a timeout was called. Update: Our Ford dealer's parts department was able to order the two plugs that arrived in 2-3 days. A Torx T-50 Plus bit is needed. The fill plug not only has threads but a shoulder above that - which makes getting penetrant in there difficult (and conversely helps prevent leaks). It's a different design from an oil drain plug with crush washer.

Looks great! I seriously getting a Town Car after shuttling work colleagues through dark, fog, and rain from Pueblo, CO to the Denver airport (flight was diverted due to weather). Traction and visibility inspired confidence, and my mates still talk about that drive, getting us to Denver while restaurants and hotel beds were still available. Maybe one with railroad rails welded on each end is the perfect retirement vehicle ?

After several dealers refused to replace our PTU fluid on a 2015 MKZ 2.0 AWD, our independent mechanic gave it a shot. 38,000 miles on the clock. Our PTU does have a drain plug (requires a T50 Plus Torx bit), but he could not get the smaller fill plug loose. Says he'll only try harder if I bring a spare plug, just in case. Edit: Our Ford dealer ordered drain and fill plugs, so that was easy. Could not find them online. First photo is the drain plug. Second photo is the fill plug.

Thank you for posting the disassembly sequence.

Have you checked for a damaged wheel speed sensor? A long shot, but perhaps the impact (or the shop workers) damaged the part or wiring.

Sorry I'm late to the discussion. I replaced mine because the fuel door was sagging. A plastic pin/stop on the hinge wears out or breaks. You can repair the original assembly with a metal cotter pin (stronger solution). See photo. I removed the wheel and inner fender liner. Boy do those recycled fiber liners hold a lot of water and dust. Using the smallest plastic trim removal tool, I was able to pry the pocket loose - but perhaps it would have been easier had I also pushed it out from the inside. I recall having to do something with the fuel filler hose - like moving spring clamp or drain line. Sorry the photo is not the best angle.

Thank you very much. Will consider this after my Sync2 to Sync3 conversion. Good to know there isn't under-dash work involved.

One thought to consider. What is a "new" battery? I decided to bypass the dealer's BS and install an aftermarket battery in our 2015 2.0L. Autozone had three in my size with old date labels. They tested out at 20% capacity (the one they were going to sell me even after asking if they were fully charged), 45% capacity, and 68% capacity. I walked out. BatteriesPlus! down the street had a Duracell at 78% capacity so I bought it. The smart charger brought it up to full charge, and I attached an extension plug to connect a battery maintainer without opening the hood every time. Takeaway: Don't assume a new battery is fully charged.

After logging daily voltage data from August and September I let the Lincoln dealer have a look. My confidence is not 100% after the service writer said the following: "These cars have generators, not alternators" What? It's a 2015 2.0L turbo. "We pulled several body module codes that indicate a low voltage condition". Well, yes. That's why I'm here. The Service Manager called at end of day with the following: "The battery tested fine several times" even though last month's QuickLane receipt says "Battery Weak". The data I provided proves the battery will sag from 100% to 30% in 2-3 days (getting worse). "There is virtually no draw...like .02 to .03 OHMS versus Ford spec of <.05". That's good news, but he said Ohms, not Amps? Update: With no draw detected they had no TSB's or prior knowledge to go on. And without being towed in dead, they left the battery in place. I do have heat-reflective material to cover this battery, and the next one that I buy. Voltage drop (at rest) is still about .1 volt per day regardless of what their draw in Ohms says.

Thanks for posting the link, rubyinla.

In our case, the dealer assured me they reset the battery age. However, at 18 months I tried the folklore sequence (which escapes me now) and did manage to get a dashboard confirmation of BMS reset. I also read that hitting the Lock button twice (horn beeps) will cause the vehicle to deep-sleep it's modules sooner than just pressing Lock one time. We'll see if that changes anything.

Thank you for the additional insight. Will post some data after another day of logging values from the smart charger's display. The question I have is why this Motorcraft MAX battery is considered "toast" after less than two years? Systemic charging issues, or is a bad batch of batteries also involved?