Tanner Fox

Final post! Got an actual view of the pressure sensor and it was completely coated in oil. Just covered. The engine is not, no leaking valve covers, everything is as clean as can be so the sensor was definitely leaking. I had the garage swap it out last week and it's been driven daily since with no oil light so I think and hope I'm in the clear.

Wait, nevermind! It's now complaining about the oil pressure again. :(

I'm just glad that's all it was. Was starting to get real worried about having a worn engine haha.

Alright all: The battery has a sticker on it saying B4 so I'm assuming it's only from February of 2014. Not very old. However, the voltages on it tested like it was a piece of garbage to the point that I decided to buy a new battery regardless of the oil pressure issue. I swapped it out yesterday and the car sat until this morning so it's had a good 12+ hours of sitting in the cold. The starter cranked over fast and smooth, nothing electronics-wise had any issues (no errors, no beeping, nothing turning off or flickering while it cranked) and it has stopped complaining about oil pressure. The one it had was a Napa Legend "Premium" and I don't think I will ever buy one of those myself since I've seen a decent number of posts on other forums about them dying after a couple of years which this one apparently has. Thanks everyone!

I had the pleasure of doing the overnight last night so I was able to grab a multimeter out of the maintenance office and see what's up. It was literally 0 degrees F out, car had been driven for just under an hour about 4 hours before I did this: With nothing on, lights/engine/anything, the battery read 12.16v. Car running it read 14.40. So I'm going to assume the alternator is working alright but that sounds like the battery is crap, does it not? There should be but I couldn't find one. There's a sticker with every month and year on it but it's not filled out, kind of like when you get a pizza box with all of those checkboxes on the side that they don't use.

I'll get it pressure tested this week regardless but I'm now even more suspicious of the battery and/or alternator having a say in the problem. So along with the "Check brake system" message, airbag light, climate control being turned off, Navigation unit claiming the DVD was invalid (forgot about this, happened a couple weeks ago), the left HID headlamp didn't turn on when I started the car tonight. Turning the lights off and on brought it on but it's never needed to do that before. Would you or anyone here happen to know by the way where the sensor is located? Normally I don't have a problem with Googling this sort of thing but I can't find much of anything. I'm curious since I don't have a skid plate if something got up onto it after the last snow storm and did some damage but I have no idea what it would even look like. There's a thing that looks like a spark plug on the lower end of the engine block on the left side, kind of in the middle, but I have no idea if that's it.

So I took the car to the store, spent an hour inside and when I came back out it wasn't showing the oil light at idle in the parking lot or at stop lights. It didn't show it again until I got home and parked. The temp gauge showed the car at operating temp when I started it in the parking lot.

I don't have any service records on the car unfortunately.

It's at 132,000 right now

It's been about 3100 miles since the last oil change and as far as I know the last owner took care of this thing since everything is like new. I got the "Works" at the dealership to get the oil/filter changed last time and the battery was tested at factory spec 600cca and it's actual was 500cca, but that was two months ago and the temperature was still in the 40's+. I have no idea what the actual age of the battery is though.

2007 MKZ AWD, suddenly (as in just started today out of the blue) has started showing the oil lamp and low oil pressure message when sitting at idle (around 500-600rpm) and only seems to happen after the engine has warmed up. No odd sounds, no knocking or tapping when the light is on, oil level is right on top of the grid on the dipstick. It's been 10 degrees the past couple of days out, could that do anything? Could the oil pressure sender/sensor act this way? I'm starting to get freaked out already by all of the comments on other forums about other cars saying things like, "Well the engine is probably just worn out and it'll be dead soon :) ". I've had other strange electrical behavior since it's gotten cold as well on startup like a brief "Check brake system" message that flashes and goes away, usually followed a few seconds later by the airbag light staying on. Shut the car off and turn it back on and all is fine, airbag light goes out. Sometimes when this happens the climate control unit turns off. Could a battery going out cause all of this? Or *gulp* an alternator? https://youtu.be/4ZrlleEJGeg - quick video of it. Edit: Also the title I wrote was "Low oil pressure, plenty of oil". Not sure why it came up with Plnb haha.

Where would I find OASIS? My Google skills aren't working for me this morning but it looks like it may be a dealer-only type thing. Also this is the post that leads me to believe it's a software issue: http://www.fordfusionclub.com/393-tsb-ssb-recall-information/268612-tsb-07-6-10-mkz-hesitation.htmlsince it describes exactly what mine does. It's at 130,000 miles and I believe I'm the third or second owner and don't know a ton about the history of this car. The other thing that makes me think software is that it shifts fine on WOT. No slipping or jerking or anything that feels like something is wrong.

Didn't manage to get the door panel off but I was able to shove a piece of paper behind the wood panel. It's silent now thank god.

I've got a 2007 MKZ AWD that has odd shifting and a hesitation when trying to accelerate from a rolling stop or full stop. I've seen a couple of old forum posts about the TCM and PCM getting a firmware update that fixes the issues but the dealer wants to charge $100 (one hour of labor) to even look and update it if it's necessary. I'm just wondering if there's any way I can find out what firmware version these modules are on so I don't have to drop a hundred bucks if they're already up to date?

Forgot I posted this here so I should update it. I got it out! There wasn't any kind of glue on it but it was stuck pretty well. Wedged a screwdriver under it and pried it off without too much fuss. New speaker still sounds great.