2013MKZ

I would do the slats black but leave the surrounding chrome... saw one like that when I was looking for mine and really thought it looked sharp!

Welcome!

gloss black or a dark charcoal for my vote...

I have mine done, 50% Laminix. Had my window tint guru do it. https://s9.postimg.org/x2bqavsm7/tint_1.jpg https://s13.postimg.org/brsnbq8o7/tint_2.jpg

Wow! I am at 15k miles and average 19.2mpg (95% city/5% highway) untuned and 20.4 tuned with the same driving mix. There has to be something wrong...

Welcome!

Looks great, did the same thing a few weeks after I picked mine up...

No idea why but I can't add pictures via a link (like PostImage) but below are links to some pictures of mine with a blacked out grille. Can of PlastiDip and some time to tape and mask the front end... https://s27.postimg.org/7ey3ust9v/IMG_3948.jpg https://s18.postimg.org/5czzgsc1l/IMG_3947.jpg

I wouldn't imagine there would be any hp/tq gains with a catch can. The main reason for a catch can is to get the oil blow by out of the incoming air in to the intake. I installed one on my 2.0 and get about a 1/4 cup of oil every six months out of it. As mentioned above the oil/air flowing through the PVC is then cycled back through the intake where it leaves oil deposits on the top side of the valves. Over time that will build up and will affect hp/tq.

That looks great!!!

The rattle in the handle above your head may be the handle touching the plastic bolt cover below it. I popped off the plastic covers on mine and the rattling went away. I am sure you could use felt tabs as well to keep them from touching. As for the door skins I have attached some pics to show where I put the silicon. The arrows show where I put silicon on both sides of the plastic light and the circles are where I put silicon on the back side of the skin.

Had the same issue... I went the drastic route and pulled all 4 door skins. mine was the plastic led light above the arm rest and the faux wood around the tweeter on each door. I took it apart and silicon'd everything and then put it all back together. No more rattles even when I crank up the bass!

Poor car... you should burn it to the ground to put it out of its misery...

Welcome! I have purchased stereo upgrades from many sites including Crutchfield. In the end I usually buy through Amazon, Sonic Electronics or ABT due to lower prices. Shop the big box stores to see what you want and then research lower cost options online.

I went with an SCT tune through Unleashed Tuning. Torrie was great to work with and was very quick to respond.

I used a Magnaflow 12266 on my 2.0. Good sound, no drone, and quite until you step on it. I actually wouldn't mind it being a bit louder to be honest. Don't know the configuration of the 3.7 exhaust but am sure you could have a muffler shop put something together for you. Recommend it to everyone not looking for a straight pipe or fart can exhaust sound.

Interesting... I consider myself an audiophile and have replaced the systems in pretty much every car I have owned. The two exceptions were my 2006 Zephyr with the THX system and my 2013 MKZ with the THX system. I would not say that the sound is perfect but have not noticed the vocals being muddled or the lack of bass? I actually had to take off my door skins and silicon most of the pieces to get rid of rattles and took my mirror apart to silicon it as it was rattling like crazy. Funny you mention disconnecting the tweeter in the rear door as it does over power everything with it right in your ear, and I am only 5'9". In my last Mustang I had the Shaker 500 system which I thought sounded like garbage, replaced the door woofers and replaced the 5x8's with some infinities and it was night and day. Ended up putting a 10" sub in the rear deck behind the seats and some amps to round out the sound. I have considered replacing some of the components in this car but just haven't taken the plunge. Glad to hear you got it to your liking! I currently have my EQ set to Bass +3, Mid +3, Treble, +4. Depending on what station I am listening to I will move the Mid to +4.

There are 3 bolts along the bottom of the door you need to remove, I believe they are 7mm. There are also plastic pieces holding the door panel to the door that will need to be popped out around the outside of the door skin, they fit in pretty snug but you can get them out with a removal tool or a screwdriver if you do it carefully. Last but not least there are two bolts to remove...one is behind the door latch (behind the plastic insert), the second is behind the door panel under the window switches. The switches are a pain in the ass to get out so be careful. I believe those bolts are both 10mm. Once all of that is done you can lift the door panel out and up and it will come off the door. As a warning, don't take off too quickly with the door skin, there will be a wire attached to the door latch that needs to be removed as well as unhooking the wired connections for the LED strip lights, speakers, red light for door locks. Any questions let me know, I have unfortunately had mine off a few times taking care of rattles.

That's pretty cool...

Best thing is ZERO drone in the car... I installed the MRT Axle Back prior to this and it was terrible. Worst drone I have ever experienced in an exhaust system and I have been doing "Offroad" exhausts on Mustangs since the 80's...

Here is a sound clip of my 2.0: https://youtu.be/-ku3J54dhh0

Owned my 13 for about a year and so far no issues.

I went the same route as Victor... Magnaflow 12266 (Camaro/firebird) muffler and then had custom piping and tips installed.

Don't bother... just get a good drop in filter (AEM makes a good one). Although the Steeda one seals to most of the hood it does pull hot engine air in from the front. I have a Steed and ended up removing it as there was no performance gain from it... same inside diameter as the stock box and the stock box is sealed.

You will notice a big difference in just a tune... I have not noticed any adverse changes to the "S" mode on mine.