RealGomer

Wanted to see what my options might be. I hoping any overspray is from the clearcoat.

I had some rust beginning on the driver's door at the lower seam. $300 later it's good as new. Unfortunately, it looks lie some overspray from another car in the shop landed on the windscreen Can one of those headlamp cleaner kits be used to remove it?

Sweet. I wonder what my 2014 Sunrise Metallic would look like?

Well, (did I already says this?) the tranny interlock gag worked. After I pushed the slot, the battery began to take the jump and the car started. The has been at the shop since 29 Sep and it has started every time for them. They ran several battery tests and all came back aces. Hopefully, my mentioning the interlock gag will get them to check that solenoid / switch / whatever. It's the third time since 2018. I wonder if I can talk the Missuz that I need to replace Sunny with a younger girl?

This happened to me a year or so ago. If what's left of my memory serves, there a solenoid or something in the ignition circuit that can conk out. It kills the entire ignition process and fries the battery.Gotta love turning a simple, straightforward mechanical process into an overly complicated computer controlled failure prone system. Unfortunately, unless I can get power to put the car into neutral (see above comment on the starting system; it doubly applies here) the tow truck will have drag the car out of the garage, possibly destoying the tranny and definitely damaging the garage and tires.

I have the same problem on my 2014 MKZ 2.0L Ecoboost with the Technology (?) package. Except for me, the second batter went belly up after a week. It was a brand new Motorcraft battery I got at a local Ford parts Ford dealer. The previous battery lasted 7 years. I tried jumping it and nothing happens. None of the interior lights come on, the dash doesn't light and the Lincoln graphic on the radio doesn't appear. I moved the ground alligator to different areas and the same thing. So, is it the battery? The alternator? Voltage Regulator? A sneaky Cadillac fanatic?

I really hate the fact that some goombah at Ford decided to override the driver's decision as to when to upshift when in Sport mode. With 270 lb-ft of torque, one should be able to shift into 6 at speeds below 45 MPH. I want this to occur partially to better fuel economy and partially because 2250RPM or so is too high for the upshift, especially when the RPM isn't a whole lot higher when I'm at 60 - 65. Any ideas for my 2014 MKZ 2.0 Turbo?

I recently got an LG K30 thru T-Mobile. I can make and answer phone calls but the Sync no longer displays or notifies me of text messages. The phone is running Android 7.1 Nougat. Is there something else I need to do to get it to display & notify me of text msgs as it did with my Android 4.1 LG phone?

I have a 2014 2.0L Turbo MKZ. I saw one article about adding a Steeda cold air intake to a previous gen MKZ. Would a kit for a 2014/2015/2016 Fusion work on the MKZ? I'm hoping the swap will bump MPG some.

There are times during the day when the headlights go on even tho' it's fairly bright out. And there are times, especially on foggy and rainy/snowy days where the lights never come on. I have this peccadillo about being seen by other vehicles while on the road. Especially since so many others seem to think their stupid phones are more important than paying attention to the road. I've driven with the headlights on since 1971 as a small safety feature that I can control. By the way, ever try to see a grey or white car in the snow, fog, overcast without its lights on? The console labels basically disappear and the gauges do become quite hard to see. To me, it's an idiotic function. At least on my Chrysler Cirrus you could turn off this "feature".

UGH! So much for shade tree mechanics anymore.

On my 2014 MKZ w/Tech Pkg, one of the sensors in the front bumper has popped out. I'm guessing a stone hit it. This has resulted in the #%#@$ Front Parking Assist tone to go off repeatedly and I'm guessing why no matter how times I use the steering wheel control to turn it off it stays on. So... 1) If the top radiator is removed can the sensor be reached? 2) How does one pop out the ribbed plastic hold-downs without destroying them? Or are they throw aways and I need to go to a parts store to get replacements? 3) If the sensor is not the cause of the continual tone, is there a reset function? 4) Can it even be fixed by a DIYer or is it a trip to garage? Thank you.

Thanks. It has been fun laying rubber with a four banger.

Has anyone done any performance tweaking on an MKZ? Such as a freer exhaust, freer intake, computer reprogramming, etc. I'd love to find a way to squeeze a few more MPG out of the 2.0T (EcoBoost) I have, since my 2013 Fusion with the 2.5 got 33+MPG all day long and at 70+MPH.

I'd love to the Mustang GT "detuned" to a Grand Tourer in the European fashion like a Benz E Class or BMW 5 series, with the 2013-2016 MKZ front end. (the 2017 looks horrid with the Kia Sedona front end).

The answers to your question are in your question - 3.5L V6 and AWD. The former could get observed fuel economy much over 20MPG unless you were going down Pike's Peak with a tail wind. Those turbos suck the fuel like there's no tomorrow. AWD no matter the vehicle always adds another 5% - 10% observed fuel economy penalty.

I was going to ask if this could be done after having 2017 MKZ as a loaner while 2014 was getting recall work done. Will there be step by step instructions at any point? Actually, I'm not concerned about parking assist as I can't get it to work right in my 2014 and I know how to park.

There are two reasons I drive with headlights on all the time. First, it's safer and makes the vehicle easier to see no matter the weather. I've been doing it for 45+ years. Second, in Ohio the law basically says if the wipers are on the headlights are on. Or in inclement weather. Or from 1/2 hour before sunset to 1/2 hour after sunrise. As an example, today it was drizzling and dusky and the headlights came on. Unfortunately, the controls on the console disappeared and the gauges became practically unreadable. And it's worse when the sun is shining in one the dash. So, is there any way to disable this action? In my 1986 Cirrus all one had to do is turn the light switch to kill this action.

We drove from Cincinnati to Austin and on three occasions the navigation totally screwed up. We had reservations on NORTH US 183 but the navigation took us to SOUTH US 183. I used my android phone to find the correct route. And YES we specifically entered the full address with direction. The the worse error was we wanted to get Little Rockn to Paducah, KY. Instead of routing us up thru Memphis and over I57, it took us along Arkansas state routes and dumped us 10 miles west of Doniphan Missouri. In the middle of a empty road. I re-entered midtown Paducah into the navigation as well as the address of a Ford dealer in Paducah into my android. About ten miles in it had us turning LEFT down a gravel county road even tho US 67 was less than a 1/4 mile away where one had to turn RIGHT. In the end, we traveled 180 miles out of our way. Long story but has anyone else had this sort of fun? Is it tied to the :censored: Sync software or just something else?

Oh, for the love of Mike. Lincoln is taking us back to the 1977 Fairmont when the turn signal stalk was pushed in to blow the horn. That's even worse than moving the parking brake button from the console to the bottom of the dash fascia. Thanks!

I recently purchased a 2014 MKZ with the technology package and around 15,500 miles on the clock. For the first couple weeks the lane keeping system worked fine. The parallel lines showed on the speedometer gauge along with the collision avoidance image. I'd sometime purposely drift to edge line just for S&G and it worked. Now, the system appears to have crapped out. No parallel lines, no aid, no alert. The collision avoidance image does show up. Any idea what gives?

I recently replaced my 2013 MKZ which got totaled with a 2014 MKZ with Technology package. FYI - It was kinda weird to her the car automatically call 911, and give the location along with the Geo-coordinates. I think I figured out how to kill the auto-dim feature on the radio screen by setting the screen to daylight. I cannot find the same option for the guage panel which is a royal pain in the butt. We used to have a 1996 Chrysler Cirrus that had the option to keep the dash fully lit just by turning the light knob. Since I drive with headlights on all the time and have for the past 45+ years, having the dash dim is idiotic and unsafe. Is there a way to kill this stupid action?

I bought a 2013 2.0T to replace my 2014 Fusion 2.5 after it got rear-ended by an idiot who was more concerned with his cell phone than driving. I was getting an honest 34-36 MPG on my 100 mile expressway trips. And that's running 5 - 10 over the posted. My 2013 2.0T hasn't seen 30 yet on the same trip. Both cars have / had around 35K on the clock. I think the only solutions are to grin and bear it or see if the 2.5L Fusion tranny is geared differently and try to drop it in.

Chrysler has it right. They allow the driver to disable the autodim "feature" on the dash illumination. I find it incredibly irritating and unsafe for the dash to dim when the lights are on, which mine always are for safety (plus an extra 5 - 10MPH before Smokie gets interested), something I've done since I got my driver's license (mumble-mumble) years ago. Is there any way to disable this idiotic feature?

I had a 2014 Fusion before my 2013 MKZ. That's what can happen when you get rear-ended by some jerk playing with his cell phone instead of paying attention. Anyway, I saw an article there was a dealer in Cally that would reprogram the car's computer for $59 to get the Fusion's lights on. (The dealer I bought it from refused to do it even tho the Monroney said the car had DRLs. Another reason why I have MKZ now.) Supposedly, the DRLs are ready to go but Ford won't activate them on base models.