riff raff

If my 2014 has ANC, it doesn't work very well!  I think it is my 3.7L motor - it's the loudest I've been in (vs GM/Toyota NA V6's). 

I do have what I've always thought was a sensor on top of the center of the dash. 

42 minutes ago, bbf2530 said:

 

Hi riff raff. Assuming your MKZ has ANC w/synthesized engine sounds: To disable the synthesized engine sound, you have to disable the ANC (Active Noise Cancellation). Since the synthesized engine sounds only occur during particular acceleration situations, doing so will make the interior of your MKZ louder the rest of the time.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Ah, thanks, that makes sense.  Not sure my car has ANC.  I have the window sticker in my garage file, would it be listed on that? (bought it used) 

Well, I'm now at 195,000 miles and the rear rotors were warped pretty severely.  What I thought was going to be a simple job was a real PITA and I ended up replacing both calipers.  After entering service mode and replacing the calipers/pads, I was getting intermittent issues with both calipers not releasing. I finally had my buddy's service station look at it, he suggested the calipers be replaced.  I picked up pair from a DC area dealer (they are hard to find!) and that solved the problem.  I just drove it 2,500 mile to Louisiana and back, no issues.  I had previously installed new rotors/pads on the front with no drama.

Late to the party here, I just bought the OBDLinkEX adaptor and successfully installed the FORScan software and driver.  Unit connects properly.  After 194,000 miles, I figured "why not".

I would primarily like to disable the fake engine noise - is that possible on my 2014 (3.7L)

Yep,  they all have anti-seize now!  But at 200k, future rotor changes will be someone else's problems. 

Crap, I forgot that I have a jaw puller like that.  I spend at least 40 minutes trying alternate methods....

Recent update - at 190,000 miles, my rear rotors were heavily scored and warped.  I replaced them with a set of NAPA premium rotors and their ceramic pads. (they had plenty of life, just scored)  I had also recently replaced the front rotors/pads but the rears were more challenging to get off.  I could not find the correct screw to push the rotor off the axle hub and ended up using PB Blaster and a big pry bar.  All back together, it just took about double the amount of time as the fronts did.

I'd call Lincoln again and tell them you struck out (or try the dealer you purchased the car from - make it their problem).

I assume this is the PCU recall for the catalytic convertor? (mine is out in the car).

Well, I just replaced my left bank exhaust manifold & Cat. Holy S....what a PITA (2014, 3.7L motor). The POS aftermarket manifold I put on in 2018 had two cracks. Rock Auto covered it under the five year warranty, but the mental and physical scars from the installation will haunt me forever. If an oil change is a 2 on a 1-10 difficulty scale, this was an 8. All told, it took me about 8 hours from start to finish.

Getting to the fasteners was an exercise in frustration and I used all manner of sockets/extensions,u-joints and wrenches. The studs came out, so I put in six new ones (which greatly simplified installation). The car has been louder at start up for several months and my MPG dropped by about 3 mpg. I knew it must have been cracked. My neighbor, who owns the local service station put in the 1st one and said it was pretty difficult. That cost me $400 (plus $200 for the cat). Lincoln wanted $1,100 for the job.

Back in 2018, I assumed the Lincoln cat would be pretty pricey, so I went via Rock Auto. A Lincoln cat is only $290 via the Ford Internet parts houses, wish I had gone that route in 2018. That cat also did not solve the P0430 code, so I've been using a spark plug fouler for the past year to avoid the code. I think that first manifold might have been cracked from the get-go. Now quiet and no code or pending codes and my first tank of gas is back to over 26 mpg. I'm just realizing now that I didn't take any photos.  Pray you 3.7L people never have to do this. I sure hope my right manifold holds up. The good news is the replacement manifold from Rock Auto was visibly of a better quality, made by Davico.  The car currently has 172,000 miles on it.

Purchased a new low profile jack last year - problem solved. 

On the front, I just use the support member just in front of the motor.

On the rear, I put a 4" extension piece on the jack pad (see attachment) and go up between the suspension mount. 

Yep, for $2X, might as well update.

On 3/7/2019 at 4:30 PM, rubyinla said:

Picked up the A10 map off Ebay for $41.89 and today it's even cheaper... 

https://tinyurl.com/y35ze6md  <<  current Ebay price from the same vendor $38.95

Just fired it up in the garage and works just fine.  Have yet to drive with it.

 

I never updated mine, that link is dead - what did you search for on Ebay?

Lincoln sent me a flyer to upgrade for $149.  I have never used the NAV (Wayz on my phone is easier), but I want to keep it updated for future resale.

21 hours ago, BlownGP said:

So, just did the transmission drain and fill.

 

I tell you what. That is a stupid place to put a dip stick fill port. Had to take off intake sound box thing just to get to it or else burn my self on the coolant hoses. 

 

I'm taking that little box off  soon and plugging that hole. It's only there to keep the intake noises down. 

Took a little over 4.5 qts. Shifts a lot nicer now. Real smooth. 

I was considering getting rid of that noise reduction box as well!    I'm due for a drain/fill in a few thousand miles.

That's pretty wild and a bit disappointing.  I'd say to the service center, I'll need 10 free oil changes OR you can disassemble and clean my entire cabin air system to clear it for dead mice/vermin, your call.  (doubt there are any dead mice inside).  I've never changed my cabin air filter......

11 minutes ago, rubyinla said:

Not sure what an SBC is, but I had a Morris Minor, MGA and MGB in my younger days.  Last real 2 seat sports cars I had where Miatas,

Gotcha - you qualify (SBC - small British car!)

9 hours ago, rubyinla said:

riff faff...  Anything for an MGB owner ?

No kidding - do you have a SBC?

That is incredible!  Thanks for the find and share.  Wish I could download and print a copy, but hopefully it stays available.  Thanks so much!

10k changes for me, with synthetic oil and Pure One filters. (still had 10% showing at the last change, at 10k). 

I did a Blackstone lab analysis at 100k, they said I could easily push it to 15k, but 10k works, so I stuck with that (same regimen on my Altima)

70k drain/fill on the trans fluid as well.

Lots of oil changes!

6 hours ago, MKZMark said:

That's amazing I assume you do all highway miles?

Yes, but that is actually off my usual pace.  I bought the MKZ in the June 2016, it had 15k on it.  My previous car, an '08 Altima had 399,890 miles when the transmission gave up the ghost.  Before that, an '03 Accord that went around 330k.  I changed positions in my company and I'm now not traveling daily

I'm pretty pleased with the life of the brake pads on my 2014 3.7

Both front and rear pads were still OEM original at 137,000 miles.  I had to change the oil and rotate the tires today, so I decided to do the rear pads.  I bought a front/rear set of Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic (#QC1665) pads months ago thinking replacement was imminent.  

I"m glad that I pulled the rears, they were down to 4 mm.  The fronts still look like 10-12 mm thick, easy, so they'll go a bit longer.  No squealers on new pads these days, so you need to pay attention.  The rotors feel great, which is also amazing.  I usually warp mine around 125k, from previous vehicle experience (and then just live with it)

Getting the rear Electronic Parking break into maintenance mode took a bit of fiddling, but easy enough.  I bought the piston tool to rotate the piston in, but that wasn't necessary, they simply push back.  Getting a c-clamp into position was a little tricky.  A standard piston pusher would have been the way to go, I'll pick up one (my gave up the ghost a few years ago, a c-clamp was then put into action).

But the electronic motor for the EPS interferes with the c-clamp positioning, and you definitely don't want to damage any of those components. 

Update:

I had the car at my local dealer.  They said a reflash wouldn't solve the problem, and my Bank 2 catalytic convertor was bad and the Vapor canister purge valve.  They quoted $1400 for the job.  The dealer charged me $173 to diagnose. 

I ordered the parts from Rock Auto and had my buddy do the job at his service station. 

$200.79 - Catalytic Convertor

$25.89 - Canister Purge Valve

While he was in that area, I thought he might as well replace the Vent Valve as well, and they recommended replacing the wire connector

$15.00 - Canister Vent Valve

$28.79 - wire connector

So -

$312.54 - Parts (w/shipping & tax)

$450.00 - Labor

$762.54 - Total

My buddy said while  there was just enough room to get the cat out/in but it wasn't exactly an easy job.

Getting to the one battery post can be a little tricky, it goes back under the firewall, but should allow for the alligator clip connection for each lead.  If you plan to use the tender on a regular basis, I'd hardwire it to the battery, then use the quick-connect pigtail lead.  A true "tender" like Battery Tender, is very simple to use and nearly goof-proof.  Positive and Negative to their respective battery terminals, plug it in and forget it.  REMEMBER to unplug it when you drive the car after your absence!  I use one on my MGB when it is idle for the winter.  I put a piece of post it on my steering wheel, as the tender is on the ground on the passenger side and easy to forget!

http://www.batterytender.com/

That' is definitely the plan.  My buddy checked out the data from the operating system and saw no issues with the cat functions.  Hopefully, with the erratic light, it is just a reflash necessary. My local dealer said that runs around $170.      I have an appointment set for Thursday.

I was hoping that one of the techs here might see this thread and comment.  It looks like the 3.7L/FWD combo is the last popular.

7 hours ago, bbf2530 said:

Hi riff raff.  How many miles on your car? Our cars have a 5 year/60,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty, 6 year/70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty, along with the extended emissions system warranty.  Certain emissions equipment is covered to 8 years/80,000 miles.

Before you do anything, read your Warranty Booklet and check with your Dealers Service Department first to see if your car is still covered under warranty for this issue.

Keep us updated and good luck.

My light started popping on at 105k.   Currently at 125k.