riff raff

Sorry, FSM = Factory Service Manual I did try searching for a Ford Haynes Manual, but they don't have one for that body (yet). Modern automatic transmissions usually have a drain valve and they are filled thru the dipstick. (I measure what was drained out and refill, then check the stick). You won't get all but most. I haven't checked service intervals on the MKZ, but usually do a transmission drain/refill around the 50k-60k mark. The new trend in Chevy/Buick/Caddy V6's for coolant is the vacuum drain/fill, the four-cylinder cars look to still retain the drain. I have to do my oil in a few weeks, I'll look for the drain on my 3.7L

I've searched everywhere, to no avail. Perhaps we could get a group buy going on one and share it?

I'll be doing those things soon, but it's a little tricky as almost nothing is available on-line. I'm used to having access to an FSM. The transmission should be pretty simple, drain and refill. I doubt there is a filter to replace. Coolant can be tricky. I need to determine if my V6 has a drain on my radiator. I was going to do my Uncles Buick V-6 last month only to find there was no drain and in that car, it's completed using a vacuum device/port. I only find a pretty pricey digital CD for the FSM. On my old Nissan, they put the FSM on-line, which was fantastic. Folks here don't see to do much of their own work, for the reasons stated above. Perhaps someone will post some info.

Fast shipping from Green. My filter and cleaning kit arrived today. I had remembered reading that the filter was pre-oiled, but it did not state this anywhere on the package or instructions. They did sent a 10% off coupon code if the one above doesn't work (PM me for it, it's in the garage!) The filter isn't as deep as the factory filter, which is a rather nice piece and the build explains the cost. It fit perfectly and I'll see what happens. I drive close to 50k annually, so replacing the factory filters at the proper interval would be a lot more costly than installing a cleanable filter. So in my case, it is worth the hassle. image upload no limit image upload no limit

I'm curious to see and compare them. I've always ran K&N's, so this is a leap of faith for me. (349k on an Accord, 399k on an Altima, 150k on a Silverado and I also have a K&N in my MGB). I'll take some pix of the Green and factory filter.

I just ordered #7287 with the cleaning/oil kit, direct from Green. $55.27 Delivered, that is with free shipping. I found a 10% discount code: Coupon (GF10PCD) AutoAnything does not yet carry this filter #7287

I'll call them on Monday, but that makes sense. Sounds like I need a larger air-box!

I will, thanks for the heads up.

I'm out of town this week and I'll order this number to see if it fits my 3.7L motor. I'll report back.

Thanks Jim, I'll try one and also only use their oil product.

I've used them without issue for years (I'm careful on the oil, and let it dry overnight before starting the motor). But, I've heard of so many issues lately, I'm spooked a little. A buddy just had a MAF fail on a Buick SUV. He was running a K&N for just under a year (it was oiled from the factory). I've heard of other similar issues. I don't know if that is necessarily an issue with the K&N or modern MAF's. From what I've read about the Green filters, they are a bit more durable due to the material used. The only concern I have (and it is a big one) is that the Summit page said the filter must be cleaned every 3,000-5,000 miles. That's less than two months of driving for me. However the Green homepage recommends the filter be cleaned at every oil change, or 30,000 miles. I used to clean my K&N' filters every 50k (at 10k oil change intervals). I might give one a try. Here's the spec for the MKZ with 3.7L V6 https://www.greenfilterusa.com/store/7287

Hey thanks, I'm due for a filter and I wanted to avoid K&N's because of all the TB issues that have cropped up in recent years.

I also never use the Nav on my 2014, but I didn't receive a notification email. I rely on my WAYZ app.

I jack my 2014 (3.0L) under the motor mount, center of the car, directly under the engine. I put jack stands on the suspension mount points. My floor jack barely fits under the car because of the underbody cover, but it does. The newer "low-boy" jacks would probably work even easier. Getting that underbody cover off is a PITA, I wonder how long till I just leave it off....

I'm certain no new car came with only polished rims. All of them would be clear-coated. (and require the same maintenance regimen)

Same here. My 2014 is the best car I've ever owned, enjoyment-wise. I've also never rec'd as many compliments about one of my vehicles. (I've had some pretty interesting cars over the years)

Handsome, love the color choice!

I had a Taurus rental with the digital speedometer, I miss that on my 2014. Good review! I love my Pro-clip mount, it is in the perfect spot.

Has anyone installed a product to protect the headlights from rock damage? I drive about 50k annually and I'm worried about the replacement cost for these adaptive headlights. I don't find a lot on the web but these two come up: http://www.headlightarmor.com/13-16-lincoln-mkz-lighting-kits.aspx http://www.xpel.com/headlight-protection-kits/

How was this resolved?

Ah, nice, yes, that was a good upgrade! I had a flat tire in NJ this evening. Sidewall is ruined. Finding one of these 18" tires locally doesn't seem likely, looks like I'm running four hours back to Maryland on my mini-spare....

Mine works occasionally (2014), too intermittent to use it as my main means of entry. One fob doesn't unlock on approach reliably, the other is perfect. I'll address this with the dealer after a few more months (see if anything else goes wrong). Another reason is that I like to lock with the fob is that the red door LED is not bright enough in daylight, and I don't trust that it was locked. At night, or out of direct sunlight, no issue.

Thanks, I'll save that for future use. A set of plastic pry bars is cheap and a good investment to protect the soft door parts. http://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-pc-69668.html

I just completed the first oil change on my 2014 3.7L car and thought some pictures of key points might be helpful (currently at 20,763 miles). There's nothing specifically challenging compared about the job versus other vehicles, but there are some "fussy" aspects. I'm switching to Penzoil Platinum Pure Sythetic with a Purolator Pure One (now called Pure) filter, #22500. I'll do changes at 10,000 intervals, which is approximately 2 months of driving. After the next change, I'll send the oil to Blackstone for analysis and then do an analysis every 100,000 miles (my last car, an 08 Altima went 399,986 with this regimen) Update: I did an oil analysis at the 10,000 mile mark through Blackstone labs. Their report was encouraging, but I'll stick to 10,000 mile changes. The undercar tray is held in place by 10 torx screws. A cordless drill is your friend for removing all of these. Tool - T30 I'm not sure how long this tray will last with the miles I'll put on the car Drain Plug 15 mm socket or wrench (no replaceable o-ring or washer is required) Oil Filter - I used a Vector 17003 tool that fits on a 3/8" ratchet Jacking the car I used two jack points under the front of each front door. I use rubber jack pad on my floor jack I think next time, I'll jack from under the motor mount, sliding the jack in from under the drivers side front door I placed my floor jacks under the two suspension members. Once the tray is off, the drain plug and filter are very accessible (actually under the car looks pretty decent for maintenance). I rotated the tires and torqued the lugnuts (they were below 80 lbs is my guess). I used a socket with a plastic cover to protect the finish of the wheels (19 mm). The wheels already had a few chips on them due to sloppy work by whoever did the maintenance before I bought the car. I torqued them to 95 ft-lbs.

Yep, that is nice work!