Zalvern

I still get alerts when someone posts in this thread, and while I may be gone from the Lincoln scene, but am more than happy to chime in with suggestions when I can. Do not stress about the coil packs. I'm certain they're fine. Do not buy the MSD coil packs either, it's not going to help. Yet I will answer your question in regards to the MSD Coil Pack: The 2.3L Mustang Ecoboost MSDs are compatible for the 3.0T MKZ, as I had those on my vehicle. But I strongly recommend you save the time and money and stay with stock ones. What you need to do is listen to bff2530 questions: Find the DTC code. I'm certain it is still there as long you did not reflash the PCM with a tune or clear with a scan tool. I recommend using FORScan if you are savvy enough to check yourself, otherwise go schedule a day with a dealership service, stating you have experienced a misfire event when putting the pedal to the metal. Good news is it will not ruin your engine as long you do not push the car during a misfire event. Bad news is the car is not getting projected performance and fuel economy as long the issue remains. You have a 2017 MY 3.0T, just like I used to have. I'm just going to confidently assume what is going on with your MKZ: The culprit is faulty cylinder heads are on the engine, which fail to prevent engine oil and/or coolant from going places it should not be going under high pressures...such as the spark plug chamber(s). A contaminated spark plug will result in misfires, especially at higher loads and demands. Hope that helps and good luck.

I bet my bottom dollar it was a faulty EVAP purge value. Leading cause for "bad gas symptoms" which otherwise are really rare to happen in reality. Those purge value units were potentially faulty from manufacturing between 2012 to 2018, multiple engines, models and TSBs came out as a result. My 2014 2.0T Fusion suffered from it for a while.

Too small as in not enough power? That'll be a personal opinion best to discover by experience. What I suggest is to rent a MKZ or Ford Fusion 2.0T for a day to feel free to unwind on it in a preferred manner. To mention preferring the 3.0T however, tells me its probably best to stick with what the heart is set on. Do not "settle" on a luxury grade vehicle, as it is better to just wait and continue saving up instead.

For my MKZ, no. Never got to it and it would have had to be a custom made project. I did get some Hot/Cold side piping upgrades for my Mazda 6, as Corksport has a very nice kit that improved the performance feel and efficiency which is something I'm more interested in nowadays than just pure power. The turbocharger will work less as hard to make up a certain amount of performance since air cools and flows much easier over stock. Is it something you should chase if concerned about cost vs performance gain? Not really. Only get it for the complete feeling or to enjoy knowing your running something better than stock which is "good enough". I wouldn't put time or money into fabrication for custom charge pipes personally for the MKZ. I doubt there will ever be any aftermarket production ones either. OEMs always go cheap as possible with piping and heat exchangers to help cut costs, yet keep it good enough for its intended production use which is the main importance. From looking at the scrawny 3.0T pipes with crushed sections and bends, charge pipes definitely could be improved and bring some pressure drop, temperature, and throttle response improvements but it won't be huge or anything.

I don't believe there was any baffling or air direction diverters that I could see, when I had mine. Unknown if pressure drop got better or worse compared to stock.

The K5 is coming to the US. I would of waited for it, but my Mazda offered an excellent price to satisfy enough daily driver comforts. I see Dodge Charger touches in the as well, which I personally like. I wish Kia the best on the K5's launch, and that their new transmissions and engines prove successful. Lincoln on the other hand, has chosen the path we all feared: A Pure Utility Vehicle only line up. It is, what it is...

Haven't been around much, but thanks for the kind words. It all just started as a fun self discovery hobby to tinker on. I hope those with 3.0s enjoy them for a good time. A shame Lincoln is going full on utility vehicles, so who knows when a coupe or sedan will ever happen again. As for the Explorer ST, it's the same size and unit, so there is no swap upgrade to be had.

I had Ultimate Performance's FMIC which only required the extra underbody shroud to be deleted. The FMIC by Ultimate Performance works with the active grille shutters after removing a bolt on the shutter mechanism. A powertrain DTC will constantly be thrown if they're removed. You cannot fool it either by keeping the shutter motor plugged in as the PCM measures the shutter angle and positioning. You'll have to contact those other FMIC sellers and ask if they will work with shutters and ACC in place.

All one can do is openly talk with the service department head manager in regards to modifications. Contact by email address or make a call. Ask specifically what is the service department's stance on a modification desired, and how it may impact a warranty claim. Upgrading to Revel Ultima with all OEM parts, is not the vehicle's original equipment by assembly, and thus can be denied under the Electrical Warranty if something goes wrong later. One may get told "revert to stock" for a claim approval. Electronics modifications can be a bigger can of worms if it involves the Body Control Module in any way. It's important to find a service department and be transparent before modding anything beyond stock that isn't easy to swap back. Whether choosing an FMIC upgrade or Revel Ultima upgrade, the risks of warranty denial for those fall under the same condition. This isn't to sway one from modding, just facts on how to assess risk acceptance level, being confident in it, and able to survive potential consequences that might happen. So reach out to the closest service departments till you hear the answers you'd like to expect, but even then, decide if you're okay with the unknown risk chance to not depend on the OEM and/or Certified warranty. There are service dealerships that if you pay for them to install non-OEM assembly parts, they may honor thier own in house form of warranty if something goes wrong. Not cheap but it's because they provide that peace of mind. This makes it so you do not have to depend on OEM warranty if it gets denied.

I'm quoting so its doubly said. For bbf2530 states the facts in regards to the whole modding vs. warranty coverage question that pops up on vehicle forums everywhere. What warranty has written, is what has to be accepted. I wouldn't call it a rant either, just the actual facts on the matter. If warranty is of utmost importance for financial reasons: I recommend it is best to leave the vehicle alone and accept it for what it is. I cannot promise gray "what ifs" thoughts over facts. It is a luxury and hobby to modify a vehicle beyond stock. I have myself a savings made for taking care of my vehicle out of pocket if ever needed. My list of suggestions to reflect on before touching a single modification: 1. Be confident in understanding your own vehicle, monitor its parameters with a scan tool occasionally like FORScan. 2. Understand that car degradation issues do not happen overnight, but with time being combined with heat and stress. 3. PCM Tuning will always be open for warranty voided risk if a catastrophic power train event occurs post installation. Don't think reverting back to stock will outwit service engineers. Know the differences between Warranty Voided and Denial: Voided: A catastrophic event has occurred with the vehicle and has been evidenced to operating outside manufacturer parameters, suffered to driver or environment conditions, or "module black box" history tampering post the event. The vehicle is in inoperative condition. PCM Tuning no matter what, applies more stress beyond manufacturer's intended operations, and can have a lingering effect even if reverted back to stock. In the PC world, we call it Overclocking and if abused too much, it results in degradation that can accelerate towards longevity failure. PCM tuning risks should be fully understood and accepted with no bail out expectations if things go bad. Denial: Customer has an aftermarket or non-OEM part that can potentially relate to the issue at hand, but vehicle is still operative. Magnuson Moss Warranty Act only prevents turning denials into voided because an aftermarket part was seen on the vehicle, or irrelevant matters pertaining to the customer's claim request. Warranty/Service still has the right to not honor a claim if concerned about a part being the cause and refusing to diagnose until reverted back to OEM parts. Warranty coverage will not be lost as long it doesn't elevate to catastrophic events. One may just have to go to another dealership for service approval instead. Note that dealerships who deny warranty, usually do so before even submitting the claim to the manufacturer. This is to save time and money on their part if they think a claim is at risk of being rejected by the manufacturer. The "unable to replicate the issue" is a common bummer for customers, but its mostly because the dealership knows they're lacking evidence to validate a chance for a claim approval. In Ford/Lincoln's claim case, the dealership will know very well how the warranty process will go if based on the claim, the customer's automotive history, and evidence gathered. All you can do is be honest, transparent, and know the risks depending on your choices.

I see. Falling flat on its face at higher speeds, is prone to happen with the MKZ in stock form. One of the culprits is the stock Front Mount Intercooler, for what happens is applying full engine load causes the FMIC to be overwhelmed by heatsoak. If you use a scantool like FORScan to watch Charge Air Temperature reading, it will climb rapidly when you go full throttle. This means the FMIC is flat out inefficient at higher loads, and only good enough at your typical street driving mid-low load speeds. I only got consistent pull at higher RPMs when I upgraded the Intercooler. Adding things like the heat shield padded Steeda Intake and BBK/Ford Performance Throttle Body smoothed and cooled it out even further. Go Fast Bits DV+ 9358 made boost more reliable as well. Those four bolt-on mods work well, but FMIC on its own is the only one to consider at minimum. Go Fast Bits DV+ 9358 is next for its not that costly and easy to add on. CAI and Throttle Body upgrading is more minor and less cost effective compared to the other two, only slightly helping IAT temperatures further but can be skipped. My mindset in vehicle modding is to seek true efficiency and consistent performance over just making more power and going faster. That's all in fluid temperature control, between oils, coolant, and intake/exhaust air flow and pressure. A tune gives power by allowing higher parameter limits, but not better stamina to a vehicle that's still fully stock. Most OEM FMICs are not made with high load performance and speed in mind, nor cared about. So the OEM production can reduce costs by just giving what is good enough for a street car making EPA Fuel Economy goals. 3.0T MKZ shares the same FMIC as a Fusion Sport, despite making more power and heat, so that alone should give a heads up. I would ask the dealership to verify your spark plugs look good and no fluid leaks are found. If you are seeking consistent performance, I recommend the FMIC first before tuning, as it will solve the falling flat at high load speeds issue which a tune will not fix on its own. It's the toughest to install out of all mods, but does bring very satisfying results like pulling all the way to Red line without falling flat. With that said, good luck with whatever choice you decide on is best for you.

If it is just gurgling alone, that won't be enough to push them to fix things. There has to be a bit more form of potential-detrimental proof. In my case it was a wet spark plug, since it was really hard to replicate when the car would throw a CEL under hard acceleration. Gurgling dash just means there is a possible chance coolant is steadily leaking and air keeps coming back in overtime. But there are some cars that just have this issue of air trapping in there no matter what, but no coolant leak. As bbf2530 mentioned, simply go in and ask about the TSB, your MKZ's build date and how it falls in range, and your concerns in feeling its ill-performing at times. Have you ever had a flashing CEL event though? Anyone who will suffer this issue should have a CEL event at some point, even if rare.

It'll be nothing more than basic tools for the most part, things you could find at a hardware store once you verify the steps. It's a 1 hour service book job (the rate you'll be charged at, even if done faster than an hour), but of course service hour rates are higher than ever. I had some 2017+ MKZ workshop pages saved but they're not with me and I only took what I used for the times when I was diving into mods, and to do all the engine fluid changes and other services that are DIY friendly. I do not have the fuel filter procedure though as I didn't notice it existed back then, and my old MKZ stuff is on a hard drive I cannot access at this time.

Dogging out as I call it, is a total kill joy and embarrassing moment. This may not be just the transmission limitation (that even aftermarket tunes will not fix) given your instance when passing slow cars issue. So a few questions to ask for more information: Have you ever thrown any check engine lights or felt the vehicle shudder when demanding more acceleration? Do you have the Go Fast Bits DV+ 9358 add on for the boost tube? What year was your MKZ exactly built? Since it's a 2017, check the door placard for the build date in the top left corner, near Front GVWR.

You can DIY but must understand how to depressurize the fuel rail line. That is the main importance. A service manual can be rented for 72 hours at https://www.motorcraftservice.com/ after making an account. Cost is about $21.95 USD, so that is around $31 CAD. The manual will tell you how to correctly perform a fuel filter service. Skill level is equal to that of an oil change once understood.